EEC Fuse keeps blowing URGENT HELP NEEDED

[n4baf]

My EEC fuse keeps blowing on my 1993 Explorer. What is the best way to troubleshoot this problem. It blew for the first time a few days ago and I
didn't realize it was the EEC fuse until yesterday. I replaced the fuse and it ran fine yesterday and this morning. While idling in my yard the car just cut off and
the EEC Fuse was blown. I replaced the fuse and when I went to restart it blew again. I need help with this urgently. Thanks

 

[paul.milne]

I had a similar problem; not exaclty with your symptoms but my EEC fuse kept blowing. From my search on this forum it seems that most of the time it is caused by a short of some kind. Makes sense since it's such a large fuse. Mine happened to be a short in the wiring harness in the transmission. For me unhooking things seemed to work. When I removed the wiring harness from the transmission that solved my problem, isolating the transmission as the cause of the problem.

Do a search for EEC fuse and you'll find lots of posts with problems and recommendations.

 

[MrShorty]

Also get a wiring diagram. That fuse feeds power to the entire EEC-IV system. Transmission solenoids are one possibility. There are several other possibilities. You'll want a wiring diagram so you can see what feeds off of the relay.

 

[Glacier991]

Generally a fuse blowing on a PCM is due to a shorted solenoid or relay or other less obvious component. Mr. Shorty is right, as is Paul. You can try unplugging your transmission to see if the TCC or 3-4 solenoid is shorted causing your problem, the connector is at the tansmission case on the driver's side. I think it is a doubtful call in your case, but it is an easy place to start. Keep us posted, and we can try and guide you as you go when you have questions.

 

[n4baf]

I'll give the History leading up to this problem. My negitive battery cabe got so hot it was cherry red; I replaced the cable. I would drive the vehicle and when I turn off the ignition and try to restart everything was dead or just a click. A while later everything would be ok. I was driving one night and everything went dead. I was at my brother in law house and had no lights, vehicle wouldn't start. I went inside not turning off the light switch because everything was dead. A few minutes later the lights were back on and the vehicle started. I drove back home and everything was dead. I had the brushes inside my alternator changed and the alternator checked out to be good. I had no other problem except the click after filing my tank up with gas. I moved the positive battery cable a little and the vehicle started right up, but about 15 minutes later I blew my first EEC fuse.

 

[Runnin'OnEmpty]

N4baf, you have a VERY high drain short. Since you've already suspected the alternator and checked it, I'd home in on the starter circuit; either the starter itself or the starter relay.

Put a multimeter (on the ammeter setting) across the negative battery cable end and the battery neg post. (Observe polarity; meter pos probe to the cable end, neg probe on the neg post) Turn the ammeter to the highest setting available, 100 amps or more.

I'd first disconnect the starter cable or the starter relay (on the starter end). Take a meter reading and observe any current draw. Depending on the results, you can pull fuses, disconnect wires, etc, until you identify the system with the short. It's a big one, to be able to fry the negative cable like it did.......

 

[n4baf]

I checked it out with ohm meter and have 4.8 reading on my digitial multimeter. I disconnected the starter cable at starter, disconnected the starter relay, pulled each fuse in the distribution box and started to pull fuses on the inside and still I get 4.8 on meter. Today and yesterday the vehicle drove fine without blowing fuses, but I still believe there is a problem somewhere.

 

[Runnin'OnEmpty]

I checked it out with ohm meter and have 4.8 reading on my digitial multimeter.

N4, if thats' 4.8 mA (milliamp) current draw with everything switched off, that's normal. The modules and radio pull about that amount of current with the key off.

The fact that your battery cable got red hot makes me suspect a dead short in the primary electrical circuit. That usually includes the alternator, lights, and starter. The EEC fuse blowing was probably incidental, because a 30 amp short wouldn't heat the battery cable cherry red before the fuse blew.

If this happens again, quickly remove a battery cable, and feel the starter relay and starter for excess heat. (Be careful to prevent a burn.) The part that's the hottest will be where the fault is.....

 

[FedUpWithSuV]

I am having a similar problem with my 92 Explorer Sport 4.0L, however, I don't know much about cars so my dad usually works on it...I had the same symptoms, except when I would drive and hit the gas, the RPM meter/stick would go up to 3 or 4 but my car would not go into the next gear, and when it did, it would do it roughly...My car is an automatic and it would do this when I sped up to about 50 mph...Eventually it just cut off and wouldn't start and my father inspected it and thought that it was the gas pump, which it wasn't..NOw we noticed the EEC keeps blowing and I am wondering on average, how much will it cost me to fix at a shop or would it be cheaper for my dad to get the materials and work on it at home?

 

[MrShorty]

I expect the bulk of the cost to repair will be in diagnosis. As I noted above, that fuse feeds a lot of different components and wires, and it takes time to wade through all that. The cost could be compounded if they start guessing wrong and you end up replacing half the engine management system before they finally "guess" right. But your time/energy are worth something, too. I would suggest, if you and your dad feel up to it, that you get a wiring diagram and see if you can at least narrow the search down to an individual circuit.

 

[Linkster]

Take a working head lamp, put some wires and suitable connectors on it and put in the EEC fuse socket and the light will be on. Check/wiggle/bend etc your wiring till you see the light go out and you have found your short or at least a location for it. Mine was in the wiring to the drivers side, sensor under the intake had been replaced and left out so the wires were hitting the EGR line and burned thru.
Works very nicely and easier than fuses!

 

[Travist2323]

whats up my 93 ranger blows eec fuses to ive checked the wiring put a new ignition switch in etc my problem is when i start the car it starts but when i turn the key to the run position the fuse blows got any recomendations let me know

 

[benjamin96707]

Eec fuse

Yeah i got the same problem. My car wouldn't start and i changed the fuel pump fuse and the eec fuse and the eec still blows. Any help please.

 

[wr2001]

I had this problem as well but also included what i thought was a major "short". The transmission shifter cable on my 93 limited was fried onto the left exhaust header (power steering side). I went to pep boys and bought a plastic sleeve/loom and put it on the shifter cable and VOILA! My transmission had been slipping severely and i even added lucas oil anti slip, but this repair made my transmission feel super strong again. I never had any issues with rough idle but surprisingly I also had a way smoother idle after this repair.

 

[shannon]

ok im under here n the fuse that mine keeps blowin is the ignition fuse in the power disribution box ok sumone take me frm here should i go to take apart the dash n look ?

 

[wr2001]

fuse job

check to see if there's an aftermarket alarm spliced into the ignition cable...check the fuse on the alarm brain if it has one...or maybe they spliced an aftermarket radio into the ignition??? all problems above seem like theres a short somewhere

 

[shannon]

ok ya the guy who sold it to me put a diffrnt radio should i go un hook it n replace the fuses ?

 

[Maniak]

At least look at where they spliced in (assuming they spliced).

We were blowing the EEC fuse too and in our case someone has spliced into one of the wires right off the ignition switch and the connector had pulled away allowing bare wire to hit some of the metal within the dash which would blow the EEC fuse.

~Mark

 

[shannon]

well i jus pulled my radio out replaced the fuse n tryed to turn it over needless to say it popped it , were else can i look ?

 

[Maniak]

Does it blow the fuse when you turn the key to "on" or when you turn it to the"start" position?

It sounds like it is time to use a multi meter and find the short that way.. blowing fuses is going to get expensive.

~Mark