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egr problem

devilboy , so what your saying that i should hook a vac guage to the line that goes from the solinoid output to the egr valve and see if i see a reading the solinoid is good right ?

Yes. exactly. What you do is put a vac gauge on the line that goes from the solenoid to the EGR valve, and slowly pull the throttle open a little bit. As you open it up, the reading should slowly ramp up with the RPM's. If you have a haynes manual, it should describe this procedure in better detail, but that is the gist of it.
 



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ok ...got it . thanks !
 






I don't know if this is easier or not, but when I tested the EVR solenoid on my '87 2.9L, I hooked up a vacuum pump to the EVR solenoid. While trying to pump air through the solenoid, I used the output state test (see my notes on pulling EEC-IV codes if you're not familiar with it) to open and close the EVR solenoid. It was pretty obvious when it was working.
 






Hey guys, just want to be crystal clear that I have nothing to gain by telling you to buy Ford parts, other than concern for my fellow Explorer dudes...

All I can say is that if you haven't read my "327 from Hell" thread, you're in for a good time. I bought an aftermarket DPFE for about $60 that lasted about 6 weeks.

When it started up with the same code again, I refused to believe it could be the DPFE again. Until I replaced it with a new Ford part (with the new connector). I wasted more money in between, part-swapping things that did not matter.

What I learned from that is, only buy Ford parts for sensors, and never replace anything code-related until you do a real diagnostic. Your mileage may vary (but I doubt it)...

Hope this helps.

Mike
 






no thats no problem ...glad i got people to help me out when stuff craps out .ford does make better sensors...i agree ,but useally at more of a cost .

dpfe... the new one i just got looks very similar to the first one i took off the truck a year ago ....very,very similar...but as to it's guts i suppose thats anyones guess. pics........
DSCN1279.jpg

the one on the left looks like the one i just bought except that where you see the code below the arrow was routered out and is blank for better words .the one on the right is the one i just pulled 3 days agos ...note the difference between the two units.
DSCN1280.jpg

the back view is very different indeed ...note the missing panle on the one i just pulled on the right .

i wonder if the new one i just got was a actual ford sensor that was sold off to whoever ( under a different name ) and they just took off the ford part code but it still has all of the good quality oem ford parts still in there when ford went to a plastic case dpfe unit ??
 






The new ones have a different connector than the old ones.

If you've been swapping these sensors out (without having to splice in a new connector), most likely, you still have not purchased the new model. You'd have to ask a Ford dealer when they changed the part.

Anyway, yes the Ford parts are more expensive, which is why I also bought an aftermarket one first. That ended up costing me an extra $60 vs. just buying the Ford part from the beginning (since the aftermarket one cost $60 and died after 6 weeks)...

My advice is this: Do a real diagnostic. If that points to a bad DPFE, go to a Ford dealer and ask about the new one.

Hope this helps. My 94 is buried under a foot of snow right now, or I'd go out and get you a good part number.

Mike
 






yes i understand what your saying ...... i know that the pics that i posted were of "after market" parts .all i was trying to say was that the one that came with the truck from the factory ( right ) looks the same as the new one i bought sevaral days ago and is different ( both oem and the new i bought ) look much different than the the one i just replaced ( left ) .

anyways , update on the egr problem ..... no i have not done the vac test from the egr solinoid but after i posted the last post i went out that morning to start the truck and went to 400 again but it came back up to the correct rpms by it's self and held with out any peddle from me .then a wild thought went through my head ....the iac .... when i went to the yard i bought 3 used ones ,they had been cleaned and tested good.one of the 3 looked brand new ......when i was trying out different iac's out on the truck i had taken that newish looking one off and was useing another one of the 3 i bought. ( i know tbars ...you asked if the iac was clean ....)

when i replaced the dpfe module and noticed that it's idle was still not quite right i decided to swap the iac with the newer looking used one ......


that was the ticket ;)

after i did that for the next 2 days .....i went out in the morning to start the truck up and it was 20 f cold ( if it's going to do it will do it when it's eceptionally cold ) ....started up went right to it's correct rpms and ran like dream ,no peddle or anything from me ...just perfect .

i have already put several hundred on it so far and all were cold driveing conditions and it just runs great .no engine pulse anymore ,more power etc...been starting up and running correctlly for days now with no problems what so ever while being cold out side.( side note i also replaced the stat and the upper rad hose during all of this)

of course i have had said this before and i don't want to jinx myself but i can safely say it's finally fixed .i think swapping the iac with another one i had was the correct combo for this problem after buying a new dpfe module, i think that the iac was not totally clean or something ...good thing i bought 3 of them) .


thanks everybody for your time helping out with the dreaded 327 cel code problem and i know that i bought a aftermarket part for cheaper than oem ford but it's got a 2 year warranty to hopefully if it does decide to crap out i'll be covered .


:)


edit : mike , i would still like to see a pic of the new style dpfe module ford is makeing if you could please sir ...... just for reference ........thanks
 






..:scratch:..I remember someone mentioning the IAC again...:p:

...Congrats on getting her fixed...:biggthump
 






Hey Boggs,

Sounds like you got it cleared up. That's great news!

Can you run down the sequence of things a bit more clearly? I'm wondering if you ever did a KOER test, or if those 327 codes were just coming up from memory.

If nothing else, you should clear your codes so that if you do get another CEL, you can be sure that whatever you pull up is a current problem, not something you may have already fixed.

When we get some snow to thaw, I'll try to get that DPFE info for you...

Mike
 






OK, went out to the 94, and looked at the DPFE. It's black and plastic, but the part number must be on the back of it. The connector is definitely spliced in (physically different than on the old metal DPFE).

The tubes are also attached differently. The tubes on the old style DPFE (as shown in the pics above) are arranged in a front/back relationship (front/back of the DPFE, not the truck). The tubes on the new style are arranged in a side/side manner.

Again, a Ford dealer should be the most help with this. I doubt you'd get the connector upgrade with an aftermarket part.

Mike
 






thanks mike , next time i'm arounda ford dealer i run in and take a look at it .

thanks for your time :salute:
 






http://www.rockauto.com Good prices, including motorcraft parts. Many pics too.

My IAC is new, so I HOPE That isn't it. I'll have to look into what, aside from the PCM feeds into its cycle.
 






Crap...they offer DPFEs wtih oval and D shaped plugs....I'm out of state for work and want to replace when I return in a ocuple of weekends...any odds on which is most likely the one for a '94??
 






OK, I have some cobwebs shaking loose now...

Looking at the pics of the "D-connector" and "Oval Connector" versions on the Rock Auto site...

The one that comes up as the "D-connector" looks exactly like my new one. The one that comes up as the "Oval Connector" looks like my old one.

So, where does that leave Boggs? He has the newer connector, but the body of the unit is the older style. Gotta love Ford...

I vaguely recall that while I was hunting around for a new DPFE, I was told by a few parts stores that the part number of the DPFE in my hand (that I had just pulled off the 94 Explorer) was coming up as a 93 model. Seems that Ford recycled an old part when they built my 94 Explorer (must be an early 94).

When I bought the newer one, I had to cut off the oval connector and splice in the D-connector. Wish they had the stupid part number on the front so I could post that here...

I still have no good explanation as to why the aftermarket DPFE that I bought (as an "exact" replacement for the old style I had on there) only lasted 6 weeks, while this newer model has lasted over a year...

Mike
 






don't want to sound like a dumb ass but ...huh ?

...you lost me on that one ( lol )

so what does this mean the new one i just bought that has the oval connector but looks just like the factory oem one i replaced a year ago ( left pic ) is ok .


did i get a oem dpfe that was sold to an aftermarket company and they ground off the ford part number on the front of the unit ( below the arrow) .....so i'm good right :confused: !? because the one i just replaced ( right pic ...case wise not connector) looks much different than the oem and the new i bought (guess thats why they olny offered a 1 year replacement compared to the new i got that now has 2 )
 






Right back atchya... WHAT???

If you look at the pics on the Rock Auto site, one is black plastic with a D-connector. That's what my new Ford unit looks like.

The other is metal, with the same body as shown above (metal), but it has an oval connector.

Yours seems to be a combination of the two, it's the old body style (metal), with a D-connector.

Does that make any more sense?

In your case, I wouldn't worry unless it goes again. If I recall correctly, this was a nuisance code anyway, the truck didn't run too badly. I just wanted to get rid of the CEL in case it developed a real problem...

Mike
 






ahh ok . so i got a hybrid dpfe ....dam you ford .... lol

just looked at the rock auto site and i see what your talking about now .the new plastic motorcraft one is only $20 bucks more than the one i picked up .

i dont know about it being a nuisance code and driveing bad...mine was SO bad that after doing a 45 minutes trip of the truck surgeing off and on and that feeling ( steady rythmic ) ...when i got home and was standing in the house my body felt like it did in the truck those 45 minutes of hell !


thanks again mike :thumbsup:
 






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