Elec. windows work ONLY from master panel

[ma96782]

Elec. windows work ONLY from master panel----FIXED

I have a '94 XLT with 4 doors. All of my power windows will work, but ONLY from the master panel switches located on the driver's door. When I try the switch located at any of the other three doors, the power windows won't work. I've tried the "window lock" switch on the master panel and still no difference.

Also, the power door lock will ONLY work at the master panel.......the frt passenger power door lock will not work.

Could the problem windows and door lock be related? Help me, please.........

Aloha, Mark

 

[TNR]

I have a '94 XLT with 4 doors. All of my power windows will work, but ONLY from the master panel switches located on the driver's door. When I try the switch located at any of the other three doors, the power windows won't work. I've tried the "window lock" switch on the master panel and still no difference.

Also, the power door lock will ONLY work at the master panel.......the frt passenger power door lock will not work.

Could the problem windows and door lock be related? Help me, please.........

Aloha, Mark

Can you clarify what you mean by "tried the lock" button?

Like any other push on push off switch, it can click but still not make contact (or release), did you try testing for continuity across the switch in the on/off positions?

 

[Darrman]

Did you unlock the master override? It sounds like that is the problem, I would look at it first, maybe that switch is messed up. I dont have that feature on my 2dr, but I remember it from the 4dr I had a few years ago.

 

[ma96782]

OK....on the driver's door the master panel has a switch located at the very bottom it says "lock" (it's a push button switch, push down it stays down- push again and it comes up) located below the four window switches. Just below the push button switch (lock) is the word "window" written on the frame plate. So, I assume it's the master window lock.....sort of like a child proof lock to disable all of the rest of the window controls (at the doors).

I tested that switch with a continuity test.......and it appears to be OK.......when I push the button down, I get tone.........when the button is in the up position, (released) I don't get tone.

BTW.....all of the power window switches and all of the power door lock switches have been tested using the master switch as the baseline (of a functioning switch) and they all test the same.......tone and no tone when touched on certain prongs on the back......so it appears that all of the switches (door lock/unlock and windows) are functioning correctly.

Except, that as you may know, the master panel (driver's door) switches for the 4-cluster window switches have only two prongs on the back for each. Those tested O.K. too.....tone and no tone when the rocker is activated.

Like I said before.........everything functions fine......but, ONLY from the master panel on the driver's door. When I activate the switch at EACH OF THE OTHER THREE DOORS........then the door lock/unlock and the power window will not work properly (up/down).

So.......maybe I'm not getting power, at the three other door switches to activate the switches??? Or the ground, for the three other door switches isn't working??? Is the master panel (driver's door) switches "isolated" from the other three doors??

Got any ideas??

_________________

Did you unlock the master override?

Sorry, but I only got the car about a week ago.....and I have not idea where the "master override" is located.

Could you enlighten me??

__________________

Aloha, Mark

 

[Darrman]

That bottom button is what I meant, it overrides the controls on the other doors, yes like a child safety thing, cause I used to mess with people in the back by hitting that switch when they tried to get out, lol. Anyways, that sounds like the most likely problem still, but I dont have anyway of confirming that since I dont have it on mine. Maybe someone else with 4dr can help more.

 

[ma96782]

Like I said before.........everything functions fine......but, ONLY from the master panel on the driver's door. When I activate the switch at EACH OF THE OTHER THREE DOORS........then the door lock/unlock and the power window will not work properly (up/down).

So.......maybe I'm not getting power, at the three other door switches to activate the switches??? Or the ground, for the three other door switches isn't working??? Is the master panel (driver's door) switches "isolated" from the other three doors??

Anyone got a wireing diagram?? I'm trying to figure out if the power to the driver's side master panel is "isolated" from the OTHER three doors.

Aloha, Mark

PS.......For ayone looking for the door/window switches, they are also made by Motomite. They have the single and the 5-switch (w/lock).

 

[MrShorty]

Chiltons has a wiring diagram (haven't personally verified how accurate it is). Chilton's wiring diagrams can be accessed via the vehicle repair guides at http://www.autozone.com/repair_info.htm (they are in the Chassis electrical section).

 

[ma96782]

Thank you....MrShorty.....I'll look into it.

Aloha, Mark

 

[ma96782]

FIVE MONTHS LATER.............UP DATE.

All the windows use to work only from the driver's door master. Though now, the master switch is going out. The other day the master wouldn't put the left rear window up.

I bought one lf rear window switch from FORD, $16.45. Then the rt rear window switch gave out. I used that one new switch to get both rear windows up. Hey, as long as the both windows are up, no problem.

Went on the internet and got a (not genuine FORD) rear window switch for $7.86. And, the master control switch for $26.79 (driver's door).....as compared to FORD's switch at $52. They look the same and is suppose to be a direct replacement part. Shipping was another $7.27. It's suppose to be here by 6-27-06. Got it from Rockauto.com.

As for the door locks.......awhile back both sides gave out. I got the driver's side fixed........switch from FORD, about $25. The passenger side frt door lock switch is still out.......waiting for more $$.

FYI.......I tried the continuity test on the new and old switches........they both react the same when tested........except, when installed.........the new one works and old won't.


Aloha, Mark

 

[BrooklynBay]

I'm also having window problems. My master switch doesn't work for the passenger's side window at all. The switch on the passenger's door only lets the window drop down, but won't raise it. I have spare switches, and tried replacing both of them, but still have the same problem. I had to use a booster pack to raise the window. It was jumped onto the 2 motor wires on the passenger's side switch socket.

 

[ma96782]

BrooklynBay said,

The switch on the passenger's door only lets the window drop down, but won't raise it.

That's what happened to me. When I activated the windows from the master switch.............the left and right, rear windows went down and never came back up. The new single switch on the door fixed it.

When I get the new master, hopefully it will fix the problem of the bad master switch.

BTW:

Dorman part#49252 single-door window switch.........................$7.86

Dorman part#49235 four w/lock-master window switch.............$26.79


Aloha,Mark

 

[BrooklynBay]

For some reason, new switches didn't help on mine. I pulled off the door panels to examine the plugs, and wires. Everything looked OK. If there is power on it to make it go down, there should be power to raise it. The switches on both the driver's side, and passenger's side are needed to work in the same circuit. If you unplug one, the other one won't work. That makes it even more of a mystery why only the passenger's side switch would work, but not the driver's side switch.

 

[BrooklynBay]

Here is a thread that has a lot of useful troubleshooting information: http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=137165

 

[ma96782]

Thanks......I never saw that thread.

But, as I said with the switch continuity tests...........continuity showed the same results for the new and old switches..........except, that when installed, the new switch worked and the old switch, didn't.

I must admit that I did, just wiggle the switch (thinking it was a contact issue) and it didn't "improve" the functioning at all.

I also took mine apart.

I guess the female aluminium connector plugs could use a through cleaning...........as well as cleaning the contacts (male pins and interior contacts) of the switch.

But, all in all, cleaning certainly wouldn't hurt..........unless you break it.

Good luck.

Aloha, Mark

 

[walterd140]

Remember that there is a window / door "Brain" inside the drivers side door, located above the interior light on the door. Thin black box with a date inked on it. A year ago, my driver window would only go down without even touching the button. Turned out the brain was fried. Got another from the boneyard for $10 & not a problem since. So for the money, give it a try.

Walter

 

[BrooklynBay]

I don't have that module in mine. That module is a "one touch" module that enables the windows to move automatically without holding the button.

 

[ma96782]

BrooklynBay,

That module is a "one touch" module that enables the windows to move automatically without holding the button.

Since you mentioned "one touch"..........actually, the FORD parts guy did ask if my "master switch" was a one touch..............and he did explain to me what it ment.

I perfer NOT TO HAVE one touch.......but, that's me. I figure, I can manipulate the switch to have the window go down 1/4, 1/2, 3/4 ways down.

I don't need to have FORD putting it all the way down (one touch), when I don't want it to go all the way down. Then, having to use the switch again, to have it go up a little.

Booooo for FORD.........more electronics just means, more to things to break and fix, later.

I just hope the new Dorman switch will work.

Aloha, Mark


PS.......I first thought, that one touch was a master switch, different from a regular master switch.........not a whole other part/module. BUT, I'm wrong, the Auto Zone diagram does show it as a whole other part.

 

[BrooklynBay]

Today, I tried to spray WD-40 into the passenger's side, and driver's side switch sockets to see if that would help. It didn't make a difference. I ended up putting a jumper wire onto the passenger's side switch so that I could use the window from the switch on that door. I now have up, and down on the passenger door, and only up from the driver's side control. I'm sure that there is a problem somewhere in the wiring harness.

 

[ma96782]

BrooklynBay said,

If there is power on it to make it go down, there should be power to raise it.

Not true. Say IF the switch was working in only one position (down) but, not the other position (up).

OR

IF the motor switch that suppose to reverse polarity wasn't functioning properly......working to lower the window, then reverse polarity, to raise the window.

The switches on both the driver's side, and passenger's side are needed to work in the same circuit. If you unplug one, the other one won't work. That makes it even more of a mystery why only the passenger's side switch would work, but not the driver's side switch.

Not true. I used to have ONLY the driver's side master switch working. The switches at the lf & rt rears and the rt frt wouldn't work. I thought that the "lock" was broken.....and wouldn't allow the door switches to function.

Then the other day I activated the switch from the master, to lower the lf rear and rt rear windows. Both went down but, when I activated the master switch again, they wouldn't go back up.

So, I got the new FORD lf rear door switch........took off the old switch, installed the new one and.........viola, the window went up. I disconnected the switch and left the wires hanging w/o attaching anything.

Took that new switch to the rt rear door........took off the old, replaced it w/ the new and............viola, the window went up.

So, NOT ALL OF THE SWITCHES HAVE TO BE IN WORKING ORDER........OR PLUGGED IN..........they are isolated.


Aloha, Mark


PS...................So, in the end, all of the switches will be changed:

I guess it was actually, the lf & rt rear door and rt frt door switches (for windows), that needed replacing. And, now that the two rear windows don't work from the master switch............so, it's also time for a new master switch too. All on order.

Already changed the lf frt door lock......and waiting for $$, for the rt frt door lock.

Will be "good as new," well almost.

 

[ma96782]

OK......I recieved the new switches from RockAuto.com.......just completed installation...........all of the windows now work.

Only non-functioning switch remaining, is the rt frt door lock.

Aloha, Mark

PS........Now, the rt frt door pull, broke off. I'll start another thread. :fire: