Electric Fan Installed

[Ronin8002]

Ok, so I had a Flex a lite Black Magic 150 e-fan sitting around after I dismantled my last truck, so I thought I'd install it in my new truck. I was also interested in using a progressive fan controller instead of the on/off controller that comes built into the fan. Just thought I'd post up some of the install details.

For the fan install itself, it was pretty much in line with what you've seen with other Black Magic 150 installs on here. I didn't use the stock fan shroud because of the way the mounting brackets work. Only thing was that the air deflectors on the top and bottom of the radiator had to be modified. The air deflectors attach to the top edge of the radiator via some plastic "lips" that grip the top edge of the rad. Basically, I had to cut away the lips on the plastic air deflectors where they overlap with the fan brackets. Easy mod with the dremel. Also, since the transmission cooler is at the bottom and in front of of the radiator, I tried to position the fan so at least some of the airflow would be pulled through the tranny cooler (as everyone might have seen, the 150 doesn't cover the whole surface of the radiator)

Since I wasn't planning on using the thermostat of the efan, I opened up the compartment on it containing the circuits and pulled out the thermostat, circuit board, and temperature probe. This left me basically with a pair of wires going directly to the fan motor.

The progressive fan controller I bought was the Spal PWM V3...which is the newest version of the device. It was about 135.00 and came with all the wire harnesses, looms, connectors, fuse holders, etc...that are needed for a single or dual fan install. It utilizes your factory water temp sensor, and it also taps into your A/C compressor wiring as inputs. Out of the box, seemed like a nice durable unit with good features. Basically you can program the unit so it turns the fan on 50% speed at a user-selectable temperature, then it increases that speed to 100% at another higher user-selected temperature. It will also turn the fan up to 100% when the A/C is being used so you get good airflow over the condenser.

The Spal controller wasn't hard to install. Really most of the install time I spent just routing all the wires really carefully for the cleanest install possible. I put it in the engine compartment on the driver's side firewall right behind the battery and secured it using the included self tapping screws. This also put it in a good position for routing the power and sensor wires. For activating the controller itself, you need a switched 12v source, so I bought a Bussman mini add-a-circuit at the auto parts store and used fuse #41 (ignition system) in the power distribution box as the circuit to tap into. Spal didn't specify how many amps the activation circuit required, so I just used a 7.5 amp fuse (the add-a-circuit lets you use up to 10A).

I programmed the Spal controller to turn the Efan on at 195 degrees and then gradually ramp up to full speed at 210 degrees. I don't really want my engine getting that hot...I just want the fan to be turning as little as possible to minimize current draw and extend the life of the fan motor.

Upon testing it looks like the fan turns fast enough to keep me at 198 degrees at idle (I was at about 195 before). I could probably set the activation temp and max temp lower so that the fan ramps up more and keeps it at a lower temp...once I've driven with the setup more I'll see if this is really necessary. If I adjusted it I might drop the activation temp to about 190 and max speed at 205.

But anyway so far the Spal PWM V3 controller works exactly as advertised and I am very pleased with it. I haven't driven enough to comment on mileage yet, but throttle response and part throttle power seem to be improved. So far I'd say it was a worthwhile mod.

I'll post more comments after I've driven with it more and I am happy to get some pics and post them if anyone is interested.

 

[macknos94]

so where did you decide to tap into the ac system? i add a flex-a-lite efan to my mounty but haven't wired it up for the ac yet. i have the 210 fan which really gets the job done. you have any pics of the install? to me my install is very clean but i like seeing other ideas so i can improve mine

 

[Ronin8002]

There is a Grey wire with a white stripe on it that runs from the AC compressor all the way up to the power distribution box. I didn't feel like chasing it all the way up to the box so I tapped into it at the compressor and ran the wire over to the brake fluid lines, up them, and up to the battery tray where the controller is. To tap into it I used one of those blue wire taps that you can get at the auto parts store. That's how I tapped into the temp sensor wire too.

I'll take some pics tomorrow. I've got a long trip next weekend so I should get some good mileage data then.

 

[macknos94]

i did my efan when i put my tires and lift on so idk if ii really gained or lost but let us know and i can't wait for the pics

 

[jakedrew]

any tips on removing the stock fan? Just get a fan/clutch tool from a parts store and turn the big wrench counterclockwise?


i am also interested in some pictures.

 

[macknos94]

i used a chain wrench which i really don't recommend but advance auto sold ther eloaner so i was sol. but yeah most parts stores will have what you need to remove the stock fan. it look mealot of struggling to get the fan broke loose but with the right tool its only takes minutes

 

[Ronin8002]

I agree. The fan clutch removal kit should have a big wrench in there that goes around all 4 bolts on the water pump pulley and a smaller wrench to turn the fan nut. The one I rented was a little too big to turn the fan nut so I used vice grips with a cheater bar on the handle worked fine.

 

[Ronin8002]

Pics

Ok here are some pics. Sorry for the snapshot quality...my camera sucks:

Fan installed:

Spal PWM v3 Controller. I had to tilt the battery away from it to take the picture because when the battery is installed it sits flush with the controller and you can't really see it:

Spal power wires. It was easy to route them up to the Power Distribution box from the install location. There is a 20A fuse installed in the fuse holder since the 150 fan only pulls about 14A. For a ground connection I simply used the grounding location next to the battery:

Opened up the Power Distribution Box so you can see where I put the Add-a-circuit into fuse slot #41. This doesn't draw a lot of power...it's more of a signal wire that tells the Spal controller to turn on/off with the ignition.

Tapped into the Grey/White A/C compressor wire. I think it goes up to the power distribution box but the compressor was an easy place and out of the way so I did it here. The Blue wire loom is covering the wire that runs back to the Spal controller:

You can see the blue wire loom where I routed my A/C signal wire up to the controller...basically just goes right up along the battery tray and to the controller behind the battery:

Factory Coolant Temp Sensor tapped. I enclosed the new wire with black loom and ran it under the intake manifold, back to the firewall, along that to the driver's side fender, and then over to the Spal controller. Pretty much invisible.

Overall shot of the engine bay where the wiring is routed. It really doesn't look like it shows anything...but that was the whole idea...I wanted it to look as clean and OEM as possible.

 

[macknos94]

nice install you have tell you spent time on it. i used a cheaper controller but yours looks like it would be an oem part good job bud

 

[Ronin8002]

Ok so I just got back from a trip out to western Maryland. Lots of open road and a whole lot of hills and mountains. The weather was cool with temps in the mid to upper 50's and low 60's.

I had a Yakima hitch-mounted bike rack on the truck with 2 bikes in it, one other passenger, and maybe 100# worth of luggage.

With the trip out there plus a lot of short local trips driving in the very hilly areas I got 19.3 mpg. No A/C, used cruise control on the highway. Return trip yielded 20.5 mpg and I did only highway driving. There were a lot of hills on this trip so I am sure that affected things a lot...I never made any similar trip when I was stock so I can't compare it to any numbers though. I'll be making another trip on flatter terrain soon so I'll post that up too when I get the numbers.

Coolant temp generally hovers around 198, though down hills in drops to 193-195. Going up long hills it gets to 200 or after one 10 mile hill it went up to 207 but dropped back down pretty quickly. Some of the temp spread I think is due to my underdrive water pump pulley but it's still within acceptable levels since my thermostat range is from 195 opening to 210 fully open.

I played with the temp settings on the fan some but it seems like having the fan come on when the t-stat opens at 195 and gradually ramping up to 100% speed at 210 degrees (t-stat fully open) is the best balance between having the fan run and controlling the temperature.

 

[Ronin8002]

Did some more highway and local driving over the last week. On the highway with the long gentle hills of VA and MD I'm consistently able to get 24-25 MPG. City driving mileage ranges from 17-20 MPG (depending on the length of the trip)...usually on the higher end of that range.

I think I've done enough testing now to determine a trend....looks like the E-Fan and UDP combo is worth about a 4-5 MPG on my truck. I think if I were able to consistently find non-E10 fuel I could probably get even better mileage.

I've got about 1000 more miles and then I'll switch to synthetic motor oil and see what that does.

A Gibson catback exhaust will probably be the next thing after that.

 

[MillerTimeX17]

looks good man. are you running the stock tire size?

 

[Ronin8002]

Yeah sticking with stock tires for now...lifting it and putting some big tires on it would be cool but that would cancel out all the mileage gains lol.