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Engine clatter after oil change




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Last night I picked up a stethascope and went under the truck to investigate my diesel sounding clatter.I listened from top and bottom,with the stethascope it still sounded like it was more pronounced from the oil pan. I disconected one plug at a time and fired it up. Nothing changed so it is not bearings,piston slap,or valvetrain. By the way the ohv has a timing chain except only one thank god right in the front. I listened to the chain cover nothing,sounded smooth. There is another post here about a cracked flexplate aka flywheel and it clattered on him until he lost all drive in gears. So I will investigate more next is to pull the starter off and check to see if there is any play in the flexplate. Supposedly it is also common on the explorer. If any one else finds out or finaly your truck brakes down and you have to go to the mechanic and find out please continue to post with findings it sounds like it has hapened to alot of us. By the way mine is running awsome despite the sound.
 






I have the same thing going on with my 93 Explorer and I'm almost positive its the main or rod bearings going bad. If it starts to get louder then stop driving it or you will throw a rod. If it stays the same it might not be a main or rod bearing and I would just keep driving it as is. I just stopped driving mine. I have too many money pits in the garage and driveway. It will be a few months before I fix it if I don't sell it first.
 






Hey guys I finally found out the diesel sound,clatter,marbles in a can sound. Our ohv engines have only one chain in the front engine cover so thank god for that. The chain guide and chain tensioner are similar to that of the sohc engine. Except in our engine the tensioner is on one side and the guide guides the chain straight no tension is set on that side. So when the chain stretches like they will as they age it will slap around that untensioned side. No big deal you only have to worry about it when it gets very loud. The shop should only charge 6 hours labour and the whole chain kit is around $200 bucks. I am in Canada my mechanic charges $60/hour no tax so it cost me $530 cdn to do and the truck is finally quiet. I should mention that included front seal all fluids and best of all oil pan can stay in place.
 






Hey guys I finally found out the diesel sound,clatter,marbles in a can sound. Our ohv engines have only one chain in the front engine cover so thank god for that. The chain guide and chain tensioner are similar to that of the sohc engine. Except in our engine the tensioner is on one side and the guide guides the chain straight no tension is set on that side. So when the chain stretches like they will as they age it will slap around that untensioned side. No big deal you only have to worry about it when it gets very loud. The shop should only charge 6 hours labour and the whole chain kit is around $200 bucks. I am in Canada my mechanic charges $60/hour no tax so it cost me $530 cdn to do and the truck is finally quiet. I should mention that included front seal all fluids and best of all oil pan can stay in place.

Glad to hear you got it fixed, but the numbers don't add up... 6 hrs @ $60/hr is $360, plus $200 in parts should add up to $560, not $530....

Unless the math up there needs a conversion factor? ;)
 






Hey guys I finally found out the diesel sound,clatter,marbles in a can sound. Our ohv engines have only one chain in the front engine cover so thank god for that. The chain guide and chain tensioner are similar to that of the sohc engine. Except in our engine the tensioner is on one side and the guide guides the chain straight no tension is set on that side. So when the chain stretches like they will as they age it will slap around that untensioned side. No big deal you only have to worry about it when it gets very loud. The shop should only charge 6 hours labour and the whole chain kit is around $200 bucks. I am in Canada my mechanic charges $60/hour no tax so it cost me $530 cdn to do and the truck is finally quiet. I should mention that included front seal all fluids and best of all oil pan can stay in place.

I'm glad that fixed it for you, my ex has been doing it for the past 6 years 100k miles and still runs like a champ. Actually the noise stops about 1500 miles after an oil change so its only a minor annoyance to me. Also i dont think my timing chain stretched out that much in the first 50k miles of its life.
 






This "diesel" noise you are hearing can actually be from two sources....generally. It may be traditional valve clatter as the 4.0 ohv's are notorius for; or it could be carbon build up. Each time you hear a marble roll it is the carbon on the piston face contacting the cylinder head. The piston will gather carbon on it's face for many reasons. But when it goes without being treated will continue to build up. Eventually it will build up enough to contact the combustion chamber of the cylinder head. I have consulted a Ford Sr. Master Technician who has also ran across this. Perform a chemical carbon clean to resolve these issues. Remember one treatment may not be enough, and it's crucial to do this procedure correctly or internal engine damage can occur. If you have any questions about the procedure please ask.


Oh, and for oil filters......Go OEM! If they built it, they know what it needs
 






well at our dealership we use a BG fuel induction kit... basically unhooking the fuel lines, and running the vehicle straight off the cleaner-no gas. while spraying cleaner through the throttle body to clean the upper manifold and egr ports. then clean the throttle body to cure sicking, and put BK44 in the gas tank to continue to clean.... runs about $170.00 was $153.00 but everything went up? :dunno:
 






Oh, and for oil filters......Go OEM! If they built it, they know what it needs

umm they build them to BREAK so you have to pay big money to fix them at their shops. Do not run OEM unless you want to be visiting the OEM lots..
 






Well, you can think what you want....But consider this - I've worked in a gm dealer- to be honest with you no one cares about causing engine damage by using an oem filter. I know for sure I've never even given it a thought....We've always been more concerned with upselling work that others don't even realize they need, diagnosing severe electrical failures....Or fixing do it yourselfer's mistakes.....

The bottom line is I know I use OEM everything and have never thought twice about it, and have never had to re-replace anything. But it's your vehicle.....do with it what you want :)

Now if you want to talk BMW, Mercedes, and a lot of European cars I will agree with you. They will void your warranty if the scheduled service isn't performed at a dealer....ONLY BECAUSE they offer it free. So legally they can.....a loop hole? You bet!


I've also used BG and think it's a great system and cleaner. At the independant shop I wrench at now, we use "Justice Brothers"......it's ok, but seafoam will still do the trick ;)
 






umm they build them to BREAK so you have to pay big money to fix them at their shops. Do not run OEM unless you want to be visiting the OEM lots..

Motorcraft filters and oil get excellent feedback. They are designed with appropriate anti-drainback valves for the engine.

Are you saying Ford wants extra warranty and extended warranty work? Extended warranties can go a decade or 100K miles (even more). If the engine fails from an internal failure its repaired on Fords dime.

What would be their logic on using lousy filters?

I'm not saying there aren't some good aftermarket competitors but I don't think you can go wrong with OEM filters.
 






I agree- arguing against using Motorcraft filters because they "build them to break" is the most ridiculous thing I've heard in a ling time.

Time and time again people run non-Motorcraft parts and end up going back because something doesn't run right. They're built to spec, and function very well.

I could say the same thing about aftermarket- they charge more just because people think aftermarket is better, because it's aftermarket.

Is Motorcraft the best filter? Maybe not THE best, but it's top 3. Good enough for me. Where is the documentation of systematic filter failure at predetermined intervals to create shop work?
 






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