Engine cut off, now it cranks and wont turn over

[Ferreus]

Hey folks,

2001 Explorer Sport 4.0L OHC

I was driving along today when my engine stopped abruptly - no sputtering out. Now it cranks, but does not turn over. I tried spraying starting fluid, but i cant get it to burn. I can get a spark. I have fuel. My pump primes. I tried replacing the camshaft position sensor, but this did nothing. i have no money for a mechanic, what should i try next? If my timing chain broke, would I notice any noises?

EDIT: The CEL does NOT stay illuminated when cranking. The Haynes repair manual lists a method to test the CMP sensor with an AC voltage meter, I attempted this test but got no readings (which is the result to indicate a faulty CMP), but I cant get the voltage meter to show me numbers on anything, so I may have a faulty meter or I'm using it incorrectly. The CEL has been on for years, but goes off for varied periods of time, so I never had it read with a scanner. I have no access to a diagnostic scanner unless I have the vehicle towed somewhere. I checked for spark by removing a wire and using a screwdriver to connect the wire to the outside walls and i saw a spark, but maybe its not enough? If it had spark, wouldnt the ether ignite?

I've had several Ford No-starts in the past, but they were all easily spotted fuel problems.

 

[2000StreetRod]

Quick timing chain check

Unscrew the oil filler cap and shine a light in to see if the left camshaft rotates. If so, then the left timing chain and front jackshaft chain is still intact. Pull the easiest spark plug to get to on the passenger side and check the compression. If it is OK then the right timing chain is intact.

Sometimes a faulty crankshaft position sensor will cause the engine to die and not restart. Have you checked for DTCs? You may want to look at my Engine No Start Procedure

 

[Ferreus]

Thanks for responding!

I did see your No start Procedure Post.

Never had DTC's read. No immediate access to a scanner, but ill call around tomorrow.

I dont think i have the tools to check compression.

EDIT: I saw the chain moving in the oil filler cap, thanks. Also, added more specific details to original post

 

[Ferreus]

OK, I bought a compression tester, but havent tested yet because i wanted to test the ignition coil. The manual lists a test for resistance. the primary resistance (power plug) is supposed to be between 0.3 and 1.0 ohms, this registered on the scale, but the meter was not fine enough to differentiate that low. the secondary resistance (between the paired coils) is supposed to be between 6.5k and 11.5k. this measured at 12k-14k consistently among the 3 pairs. should i replace this?

also, when i remove the spark plug wires from the top of the ignition coil, there appears to be a coating of some sort of liquid inside. is this normal? the liquid is odorless and doesnt feel oily. could this be my problem? the coil is at the top of the engine with no lines running to it, should it have moisture?

 

[hworksinc]

I don't know about the resistance values for the coil, but if that "liquid" is more of a goop it's probably dielectric grease used to prevent arcing and corrosion of the contacts.

 

[Ferreus]

Yeah, I dont think it was actual moisture, I think it's the grease, Thanks.

I tested the resistances of a brand new coil and it was identical, so I left that alone.

I pressure tested cylinder #1 and it rose immediately to 120 PSI then maxed at 180 PSI by the 2-3rd crank rotation for 3 tests. (Haynes specification: 100 PSI min., 75 PSI max. range fluctuation)

I bought a spark test tool and verified I'm getting a good spark.

I replaced the crankshaft position sensor.

The fuel pressure test on the No Start Procedure page needs the engine to be running, unless there is a different fuel pressure test for engines not running.

Still cranking without firing. no sputters or odd noises of any kind.

 

[my pos mounty]

Does the theft light go out when cranking the engine over?

 

[Ferreus]

Yes, it does.

 

[budwich]

are your plugs wet??? IF not, then you have a fuel issue, IF so, then you have a spark problem. check both sides for your compression test.

Lastly, check your fuses.

 

[2000StreetRod]

Fuel pressure

Your vehicle has a returnless fuel system. Your fuel pressure should be around 60 to 65 psi after the ignition is turned to ON and any time the engine is running.

 

[jrowe6]

did you check all the fuses

 

[Ferreus]

I visually checked the fuses. The coils were not wet. I'll do a full compression test tomorrow on all cylinders.

 

[96eb96]

Did it fail at idle? Could it be an IAC issue?

 

[budwich]

I visually checked the fuses. The coils were not wet. I'll do a full compression test tomorrow on all cylinders.

not the coils... the spark plugs... at the cylinders.... if they are dry, you have a fuel issue. Check for power at the injectors.

 

[Ferreus]

I misread. Yes, the plugs are wet after cranking.

It was shortly after accelerating from a stop sign, but I dont think it was at idle.

 

[budwich]

good... I guess, then it is unlikely you are chasing a fuel issue, so focus your attention on electrical. The thing about your "spark test" is that even though you think that you are getting "good spark", the issue is "is it at the right time?". I would still check your compression for both sides. Not sure how to test timing without an analyzer and marks.

 

[Ferreus]

I had someone look at it, and he says I'm not getting a good enough spark. the spark covers the gap on the tester, but is a yellow/gold color. He says it should be white/blue. I replaced the ignition coil. same results. should i replace the spark plug wires? or is the color of the spark not an issue?

EDIT: is it possible ive flooded the engine from cranking it over the past few days, thus preventing it from starting when the problem is solved?

 

[budwich]

not sure of your "technique" on your "spark test"... but check all your engine grounds (with a meter) to make sure they are good.

doubt it on the "flooding"... at least not in this weather.

 

[Ferreus]

technique is with a spark testing tool purchased at the auto parts store plugged into the plug end of the spark plug wire, connecting the tool through the wire to the coil. the tool is then grounded and the engine cranked. someone watches the spark. it crosses the gap, but is yellow/gold, indicating weak spark. even with new coil.

 

[bstarz65]

try replace the ecu relay in the distrubuion box that fixed my no start problem . I was going down the hyway and it just shut off. after playing with it I pulled the ac relay and switched it with the ecu relay , bang started right up. give it a try it might work.