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Engine overheats when Idling

efBrianM

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City, State
Spring Hill, Ks
Year, Model & Trim Level
95 Ex Exp, 01 Ex Sport
To be honest, I've been thinking about the head gaskets. Would a leak down test show up a bad head gasket?
Don't know what that would cost.
I think the intake manifold gaskets have approximately 130,000 miles on them. The engine is still running the original timing set (95 also).
Maybe a head gasket job wouldn't be so bad if the engine was already out and on a stand getting a timing set and intake gaskets.
Just thinking out loud.
 


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efBrianM

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For the 2001
I'd go with a USB elm 327. OBD adapter
and free forscan App for pc

Under$20
EBay ... Amazon...
Best way to go IMO

Your post gives me the information I need, and $20 is a steal. Already have the laptop. Thanks.
 




efBrianM

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I tried to read everything but you have checked that you do not have a hose collapsing on you? I have a 96 with 275k some odd miles on it and i can sit dead still still over a hour ac full blast with 5.0 and the temp doesnt move, same in my 06 merc 4.0 with 210k some odd on it however i do stress to use a motor craft tstat the merc will even throw a check engine light if not a motorcraft tstat in it somthing about it opening at the wrong time. Sorry if i missed some post and this has already been covered.
No hoses collapsing.
 








efBrianM

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I'm working on this thing outside on not so level ground. I started out with it parked with the front end a little higher than the rear, and then I had it parked with the front end lower than the rear. With the front lower than the rear, I get almost another gallon of coolant out of it.
 




C420sailor

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Forscan is the best.

If you don’t yet want to do a leakdown, there are liquids you can add to a coolant sample to test for the presence of combustion byproducts.

Not sure how well they work.
 




efBrianM

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Might be an option.
 




MakinJeepsWeep!

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I use the 20$ dongle that bluetooths to your phone and uses the Torque app. I have checked it along side some high dollar code readers and it has been pretty darn spot on everytime and you can run real time data on it as well.
 




efBrianM

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Ok, so I got it flushed again, and went ahead and swapped out the no-name thermostat with a Motorcraft.
Right after I did that, we had a few days of 90 deg weather (for a good test). It did not help.
 




efBrianM

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@efBrianM - change your signature to what you're currently driving, LOL! :)

Got an education from Rick about Signatures today. Sorry about that.
 




C420sailor

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Really starting to wonder if your head gasket(s) is/are shot.
 




MakinJeepsWeep!

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How does the truck run when it is not hot? Does it run smooth, have power, no pop or ping?
 




efBrianM

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If you don’t yet want to do a leakdown, there are liquids you can add to a coolant sample to test for the presence of combustion byproducts.

Have yet to find a product that you add to a sample of coolant, but I did find 'combustion leak testers (detector). Sometimes called block testers. All the big 4 brick and mortar parts stores sell them, even Harbor Freight. In my area, only Napa would 'loan' me one.
They look kinda like a turkey baster with a diffuser inside and a tapered seal on the bottom. You will need a bottle of test fluid (blue in color) also. Coolant is 'not' drawn into the tester. After watching several YouTube videos, this is how it works:

Draw the coolant level down at least 2", I did 3". This provides a volume of air where combustion gases, if present, will accumulate.
Start the engine and let it get up to operating temp - I kept the cap on but loose - don't let the radiator build pressure
Pour fluid into the tester up to the fill line. Re-seal the bottle as ambient air can degrade the blue fluid. One can do a lot of tests with 16oz.
With the engine at operating temp, hold the tester tight against the radiator fill neck with one hand and squeeze the bulb with the other.
Keep doing this for at least 1 min - the instructions with the tester I borrowed said 2 min.
This pulls the "air" thru the diffuser and the fluid.
If combustion gases are present, the blue fluid will turn yellow or green. I think it's testing for CO2 gases.
I kept going until the coolant level expanded enough that I drew coolant into the tester which ruined the test fluid and ended the test.
My fluid stayed blue (until the coolant got in there) which supposedly means no combustions gases, which theoretically means head gaskets are not leaking. I don't know how accurate this test is!

Brian
 




MakinJeepsWeep!

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Could you not just use a antifreeze tester and achieve the same thing? Would it not degrade the coolant enough to show bad coolant? I have no idea just a thought seems simpler.
 




donalds

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Have yet to find a product that you add to a sample of coolant, but I did find 'combustion leak testers (detector). Sometimes called block testers. All the big 4 brick and mortar parts stores sell them, even Harbor Freight. In my area, only Napa would 'loan' me one.
They look kinda like a turkey baster with a diffuser inside and a tapered seal on the bottom. You will need a bottle of test fluid (blue in color) also. Coolant is 'not' drawn into the tester. After watching several YouTube videos, this is how it works:

Draw the coolant level down at least 2", I did 3". This provides a volume of air where combustion gases, if present, will accumulate.
Start the engine and let it get up to operating temp - I kept the cap on but loose - don't let the radiator build pressure
Pour fluid into the tester up to the fill line. Re-seal the bottle as ambient air can degrade the blue fluid. One can do a lot of tests with 16oz.
With the engine at operating temp, hold the tester tight against the radiator fill neck with one hand and squeeze the bulb with the other.
Keep doing this for at least 1 min - the instructions with the tester I borrowed said 2 min.
This pulls the "air" thru the diffuser and the fluid.
If combustion gases are present, the blue fluid will turn yellow or green. I think it's testing for CO2 gases.
I kept going until the coolant level expanded enough that I drew coolant into the tester which ruined the test fluid and ended the test.
My fluid stayed blue (until the coolant got in there) which supposedly means no combustions gases, which theoretically means head gaskets are not leaking. I don't know how accurate this test is!

Brian
Here is the actual tool.
 




fast_dave

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@efBrianM

Let's keep this simple :)

Re-Scanning this 3 Page thread, what stands out to me is that you've written that your Ex does not and has not:

* Boiled Over

* Entered into the Red Zone of the Factory Instrument Cluster Temp Gauge


BUT despite those two points, you feel that the engine is running hot.

OK - so lets try the following - getting some empirical data = actual temp numbers.

Let your EX warm up and get to the point where you feel the temp is too high.

At that point, plug your scanner/Forscan into the OBD2 Port, toggle to the Current Water / Coolant Temperature, and get back to us with what that temp is.

Hope that helps - :)
 




HarryN

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Possible 95 4Dr. coming
Completely wild guess based on something that happened with my old 2000 dodge mini van.

The relay that turns on the electric radiator fan was acting intermittently.
 








Pete Deering

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If the engine is at its normal temp, it does idle at about 700. I have noticed that as the temp goes up so goes the RPM.

As I re-read my text, I see that could have worded that different, sorry 'bout that!
Have you replaced the upper and lower rad hose. Sometimes they collapse. Check to see if they are soft.
 


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efBrianM

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How does the truck run when it is not hot? Does it run smooth, have power, no pop or ping?

Once passed an idle, it runs great, nice and smooth, feels like it has as much power as it ever has, and cannot hear any popping or pinging.
It does has a little bit of a rough idle, not real bad though. I have changed out the IAC and the TPI, but did not fix the idle problem. The intake gaskets have over 100,000 miles on them, and plan on changing out this winter.
 




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