Engine swap 98 sohc

[rydrew55]

2 ton crane too wide

As I recall you purchased the larger 2 ton crane that probably has a wider stance than the 1 ton crane I and many other members use. You may not be able to get the jact stands far enough apart for the crane legs to fit between them. You may have to straddle one of the jackstands with the crane legs and pull the engine with the crane off center. Once the engine is free and raised some you can rotate it about 45 degrees (diagonal to engine compartment) to clear everything.

Thanks janolsson, but streetrod is right. I might need to straddle the stands at an angle. The crane is just too big to go between, and the legs are angled and too narrow near the base to go around.
What do you think about moving the stands to the frame rails in front of the crossmember. I could position the crane with one in place while jacking the truck near the door. Then when it's in place, put the other stand in, and drop the truck on it.
The crane is much narrower close to the base and should fit between the stands at the frame rails so close to the front of the truck.

 

[rydrew55]

non balance shaft motor in a 4wd

I have read a lot of posts on this and I must say, I am nervous. I am thinking about selling the mustang motor and finding a balance shaft one.
To make it even more confusing I went on that justask.com site that supposedly has real ford (and other) mechanics moonlighting by answering questions for a small fee. Take it for what it's worth.

My question:
What effect if any will I have if I put a 4.0L sohc w/o balance shaft (05 Mustang automatic) into a 98 explorer 4wd which had a 4.0L sohc with balance shaft. The 4wd's all had balance shafts as I understand it. I am also told that the manual shift mustang has a bs where the auto did not. swapping intake/exhaust/sensors etc.

Answer from justanswer.com
Professional Licenses: FLM certificationsExperience: Ford trained Tech. Trans, X-fer Case, Steering & Suspension & Brakes, Engine, ElectricalDegree: Vocational, Technical or Trade Scho

Chris (aka- Moose) :
Hello, I'm Chris. I will do my best to answer your question fast and accurate using the info you have provided. Thanks for visiting Just Answer.

Working on all the ford engines I have been into, I personally see no reason you cant do this swap, I have had customers come in for internal repairs on the balance shaft engine and there was not even a shaft in the vehicle from a prior repair.

rydrew55 :
Were these 4wd? It seems there must be a reason ford put them in only 4wd and the manual mustang. If it was only to make it a little smoother I will do it, but I am worried that the harmonic vibrations could cause damage or become unbearable over time. My original explorer engine has a cracked crankshaft so there must be some rough forces.

Chris (aka- Moose) :
It is for harmonic vibration reduction and from what I learned at ford school it was introduced for low rpm vibrations like during a almost stall event on a manual transmission or low rpm event when in low range off road.

rydrew55 :
Good answer. So you think it will run OK at normal speeds and rpm's?

Chris (aka- Moose) :
I see no problem at all running in the application you have choosen

 

[rydrew55]

Broken crankshaft caused by bad tensioner?

hey you mention you have a broken crank i hope you see what broke the crank this is what happened to mine it has a bad belt tensioner that puts full belt tension on the belt then crank brakes off make sure you check this or just replace the tensioner its cheeper then another motor and you have to swap it anyway (it caused the damage already )

Yup, I think it was the same thing here. The tensioner body is separating from the base and the pulley is more than 1/4 inch out of line with the other pulleys and crooked. I won't be reusing that part.

 

[2000StreetRod]

Engine imbalance

Two types of imbalance associated with your engine are rotational imbalance and reciprocating imbalance. The crankshaft counter weights reduce rotational imbalance. The balance shaft is used to reduce reciprocating imbalance. A symmetrical opposing (flat) engine needs no balance shaft because the reciprocating forces of one piston are offset by those of an opposing piston.

4WD associated components are all rotationally balanced. I suspect that Ford chose to implement the balance shaft for reduced vibration for customer satisfaction rather than increased serviceability. Ford produced millions of V6 engines (OHV and SOHC) with no balance shafts and no associated recall notices due to premature failure. Some stick performance enthusiasts purchase lightened flywheels for reduced rotational mass and increased throttle response. The negative impact is a slightly less smooth idling engine. I think the balance shaft issue is an analagous trade off.

I would not be concerned about premature crankshaft failure when using an engine with no balance shaft.

 

[rydrew55]

Ready to pull. Which Ingintion parts Mustang or EX.

Everything is disconnestced and hoist is connected. Ready to pull the motor next time I go in the garage. I lost my 18mm socket for the mounts so I need to get a new one first. Got the top left engine bolt through the access hole under the console (piece of cake). The rest look easy from the wheel wells and a flexi ratchet.

I am going to the parts store and have a question about which to use.

Spark Plugs -
Mustang calls out Champion 7407 or otocraft SP498
EX calls out Champion 7963 or Motocraft SP400 or SP500

Wires are different too:
Mustang - WR6103
EX - WR5786 (I broke 1)

Coil is same for both

injectors are different so I think I should use from the EX.

Also, do I need new crankshaft to flexplate bolts?
Do I need new Torque Conv to Flexplate nuts?


Thanks,
RYDREW55

 

[2000StreetRod]

Parts

. . . I am going to the parts store and have a question about which to use.

Spark Plugs -
Mustang calls out Champion 7407 or otocraft SP498
EX calls out Champion 7963 or Motocraft SP400 or SP500

Wires are different too:
Mustang - WR6103
EX - WR5786 (I broke 1)

Coil is same for both

injectors are different so I think I should use from the EX.

I suggest using the Explorer recommended plugs and wires. The different weight and gearing of the Mustang could affect the heat range of the plugs. The different exhaust manifolds and possibly coil location could affect the ignition wire routing. I'm surprised the injectors are different. Was the Mustang originally sold in California?

Also, do I need new crankshaft to flexplate bolts?
Do I need new Torque Conv to Flexplate nuts?

Thanks,
RYDREW55

The bolts are not torque-to-yield. Bolts and nuts should be reusable if in good conditon.

 

[rydrew55]

I suggest using the Explorer recommended plugs and wires. The different weight and gearing of the Mustang could affect the heat range of the plugs. The different exhaust manifolds and possibly coil location could affect the ignition wire routing. I'm surprised the injectors are different. Was the Mustang originally sold in California?



The bolts are not torque-to-yield. Bolts and nuts should be reusable if in good conditon.

I am just going by the listings and trying to decide which plugs/wires to use. There must be some reason for the differences I would think. The Mustang (and cooincidently some rangers) use this SP498 plug in the 4.0 sohc engine, where the explorers use the other one SP400 (or SP500 listed as an alternate). I think the SP498 is a finewire plug so maybe the wires need to match somehow. I read that the finewire plugs use less voltage. Strange that the coil which creates the voltage would be the same for both vehicles.

 

[janolsson]

I believe the manuals call for TC nuts and flex plate bolts to be used once only but i have reused mine and all is good. As the TC nuts are awkward to get to as you found out, if yours are a bit rounded i would replace as you don't want to not be able to remove in the future!

 

[ranger7ltr]

Question on the injectors...

What is the difference on the injectors? Is it a color difference or an actual design difference? What is the part number on the newer ones vs the old injectors?

I will guess the differences in wires and plugs would have to do with the heat resistance of the components in the Explorer engine bay vs the Mustang or Ranger...Plus Mustang typically run a colder plug than an Explorer plus the Explorer is heavier and tends to run at a lowwer rpm range...A hotter plug burns residue better than a colder plug...And the Mustang will run the engine into a higher rpm range and a colder plug is needed to prevent preignition...I would go with the Explorer spec equipment and light it off after you install it...

Glad to know you are getting it done...Hope you are driving your Explorer soon...

 

[rydrew55]

What is the difference on the injectors? Is it a color difference or an actual design difference? What is the part number on the newer ones vs the old injectors?

I will guess the differences in wires and plugs would have to do with the heat resistance of the components in the Explorer engine bay vs the Mustang or Ranger...Plus Mustang typically run a colder plug than an Explorer plus the Explorer is heavier and tends to run at a lowwer rpm range...A hotter plug burns residue better than a colder plug...And the Mustang will run the engine into a higher rpm range and a colder plug is needed to prevent preignition...I would go with the Explorer spec equipment and light it off after you install it...

Glad to know you are getting it done...Hope you are driving your Explorer soon...

All of the above.
Different part # - Different color - Different Body Size.

The mustang ones don't look like they will fit in the ex fuel rails.
Since I need to use the ex rails (with return line) and can't use the Mustang rails (no return line), I will be forced to use the older ex injectors too. Too bad, I was hoping to use the almost new ones from the mustang.

To make matters worse, there are several different injectors listed for the explorer (none that look like the Mustang)

I might as well just use explorer plugs while I'm at it. Why take a chance.

The wires are actually the same I think, just differnt routing lengths.

Coil Pack is identical.

Thanks,
RYDREW55

 

[rydrew55]

Engine is out But Transmission Problem??????

I don't know whether to laugh or cry!!!!!
The motor came out with only minor issues. The biggest problem was that I had the crane set on 2 tons and the boom would not go high enough to get the engine over the radiator cross bracket. Had to lower the truck. What a pain. Little at a time lowereing the trans each step. Also broke a ratchet (not the socket) on a rusted motor mount bolt.

Other than that, no problem. Engine came right off the trans smooth, and the torque converter stayed in place.

There inlies the problem. After I was done, I figured I'd check the torque converter to make sure it didn't slide out. Well it didn't. It was stuck and wouldn't slide at all. I tugged gently and it popped out a little. It jerked a little and almost felt like it came out of the pump, but I don't think it came all the way. Maybe an inch or so but it was a little loose. So I slid it back injiggling it to engage. Then I spun it at it makes a horrible clunking sound. Now it is stuck again and still clunks when I turn it.

Am I in trouble here? A transmission would cost more than I have invested in the whole truck.

What can I do to check the trans and TC?

Thanks,
RYDREW55

 

[mr2fix2it]

if it didnt leak fluid it didnt come out the clunking that you are hearing is the converter hitting the bell housing this is normal if the converter is all the way in it wont sit in that far when mounted on the flywheel .... note you know the mustang flywheel is not the same and you must use the one from old engine(explorer)

 

[rydrew55]

if it didnt leak fluid it didnt come out the clunking that you are hearing is the converter hitting the bell housing this is normal if the converter is all the way in it wont sit in that far when mounted on the flywheel .... note you know the mustang flywheel is not the same and you must use the one from old engine(explorer)

Thanks for the quick reply.

It did not leak fluid, but I read in several posts that it should slide in and out freely. It is stuck and won't slide out without popping it out. This doesn't seem right.

You're right about the clunking. When I lift a little and take the weight off the tc, the clunking goes away.

Yes, I see the flywheels are different and am using the EX.

 

[rydrew55]

Parts needed for the mustang motor

While I figure out the transmission issue, here is a list of what I think I need to replace. Let me know if I miss anything. I'll add as I find more.

Buy new
Tensioner and belt (broken on both motors)
Thermostat and housing seals.
PCV. Might as well, cheap.
Valve cover gasket.
Intake gaskets. Upper and lower.
Exhaust Manifold gasket.
Exhaust bolts
Fuel injector and fuel feed O-rings
egr gaskets
motor mounts (kind of worn)
spark plugs
1 wire (broken)
oil filter
trans filter and gasket
fuel line connector o-rings
Transmission dip stick tube seal (at trans)

parts to swap over from ex
valve covers
wire harness and sensors
intake (everything)
flex plate
fuel rails and injectors
alternator
ps pump (left it connected in crank)
ac compressor (left it connected in ex)
thermostat housing (same fit but ex has 2 connectors, stang has only 1)
Fan and clutch
exhaust manifold and egr tube
hoses and hose manifolds going to thermostat (stang has a different 2 hose style)
oil dipstick
crankcase breather (thanks 2000StreetRod)

parts staying on mustang motor
idler pulley
harmonic balancer
crank position sensor
water pump
coil pack

I will take pictures and become an elite so I can post them

 

[2000StreetRod]

Crankcase breather?

I doubt that the Mustang has the crankcase breather shown below.

I believe there's a plug in the Mustang where the breather attaches.

 

[rydrew55]

Thanks Dale, I'll edit the previous post and add that. I think that will be easier than searching trhrough the thread.

BTW, what are your thoughts on my torque converter issue. Do you think it's a problem?

RYDREW55

 

[2000StreetRod]

torque converter play

. . .
BTW, what are your thoughts on my torque converter issue. Do you think it's a problem?

RYDREW55

I wasn't aware of the issue until Don (CDW6212R) pointed it out to me: " . . . Excellent, so the torque converter spins freely and moved fore and aft freely before installing the nuts? That's the most important part of doing an automatic car."

torque converter play

I didn't fully understand what Don was describing until I bolted the torque converter to the flexplate. If there were no transmission issues before pulling the engine, I see no reason why there should be when you bolt in the Mustang engine. I spent a lot of time repositioning the engine on the crane so the crankshaft axis aligned with the transmission axis to avoid any binding when mating the two. It took me three attempts of lowering the engine into the engine bay before I was satisfied with the alignment. I removed the motor mount plates from the side of the engine because they were hindering alignment.

 

[rydrew55]

Torque converter sticking

Yes I too read those posts which is why I am concerned.
The TC is stuck and won't slide in and out unless I pull hard and it partially disengages.
From the posts, and the Haynes book, it should freely slide in and out. It does spin OK.
The engine separated easily and the flexplate came off the tc with no problem.

I'm trying to figure out if I have a problem that needs repair "before" I bolt the motor back up (later).

Appreciate any insight.

Thanks,
Rydeew55

 

[ranger7ltr]

Don't sweat the torque convertor not moving...

When I replaced my engine this spring, the torque convertor on my tranny did not move in or out either...Because with the engine removed, the front of the tc is not supported...Lots of weight on the snout in the tranny...

When I installed the new engine, I lined up the flexplate bolt holes and slid the engine into the tranny bellhousing and made certain the studs lined up with the holes...

I climbed into the engine bay and lifted the tc up and I could slide it a bit but I didn't remove it...And the tc does make a clunking noise when you rotate it until you lift up on the body of the tc and rotate it then...

I also had marked the stud and the hole in the flexplate to reassemble them the same and I was off when I put the engine back in...So far after about 4000 miles there is no vibration and the engine/tranny run quite well...

I will find a picture of the relationship of my tranny/torque convertor and you can see where mine ended up with the engine out of it...

Just make sure as you reinstall that you or someone watch the tc studs and lift or lower the tranny to get the studs to line up...That is the task that took the most time for me as I pissed off the wife who was helping me at the time and after 2 hrs was determined to get that sob to line up... 20 mins after she left the tranny tc studs found home and I slid the engine into place and dropped it onto the engine mount studs...

 

[rydrew55]

Thanks Ranger7ltr. That makes perfect sense. I had a small heart palpitation last night after the motor came out.
RYDREW55