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Engine/trans pulled

Are you sure the jumper cables are providing enough juice to crank the motor? Sounds like a dumb question, but the typical cheap cables sometimes can't provide enough amps to turn over an engine with a completely dead battery,
 



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Are you sure the jumper cables are providing enough juice to crank the motor? Sounds like a dumb question, but the typical cheap cables sometimes can't provide enough amps to turn over an engine with a completely dead battery,
They are 4 gauge jumpers but rn I have a good battery in it. Not a dumb question haha I got fed up with cheap cables and good ones aren’t that much more
 






I’m about to pull the starter off and look at it.
How do I do a voltage drop test?
I’ve got 12.5V at the battery alternator and starter
A good cable should be a dead short circuit. It should be zero volts. If a cable is crappy, it acts like a resistor with a voltage drop. So if you put a multimeter lead on one of the cable, and the other on the other end, watch if you see any voltage. Under load, a bad cable could steal 2-3 volts.
 






A good cable should be a dead short circuit. It should be zero volts. If a cable is crappy, it acts like a resistor with a voltage drop. So if you put a multimeter lead on one of the cable, and the other on the other end, watch if you see any voltage. Under load, a bad cable could steal 2-3 volts.
I am no longer using jumper cables.
I may be doing it wrong but I put the multimeter lead on the battery cables (not the terminals) it read 12.5v. Then I went to the starter and put the positive lead on the hot starter stud. The ground lead on the starter ground bolt it read 12.5v.
I did the same with the alternator but put the ground lead back to battery ground. 12.5V
All with the key removed
 






I am no longer using jumper cables.
I may be doing it wrong but I put the multimeter lead on the battery cables (not the terminals) it read 12.5v. Then I went to the starter and put the positive lead on the hot starter stud. The ground lead on the starter ground bolt it read 12.5v.
I did the same with the alternator but put the ground lead back to battery ground. 12.5V
All with the key removed
Static voltage don't say much. What if you hooked up the system with thin doorbell wire. It would read 12.5V too. But no way would you be able to start the truck.

What voltage do you get across the battery when you crank? That is an important number.
 






It’s doing the same thing with the clutch in or out so that makes me think Neutral safety switch?

also my pedal looks weird

D9717F52-B77C-45C5-AD73-8680F5BB2F51.jpeg
 






Static voltage don't say much. What if you hooked up the system with thin doorbell wire. It would read 12.5V too. But no way would you be able to start the truck.

What voltage do you get across the battery when you crank? That is an important number.
Oohhh I see ok thanks!
I just checked it reads 12.5v then drops to 12.3 with the key in the on position. There is no change when I turn to crank. Remove key and it climbs back to 12.5
 






Could be a bad clutch safety switch. Could also be a bad ignition switch, but that hasn't been messed with.
 






It was the clutch switch. I took it off and bent the pedal closer to the break which gave it more travel. hooked the switch back on and it fired right up! Took it around the block once or twice.
Need to put the hood on and probably top off fluids but we in business baby!
 






oh thank goodness
and yes your clutch pedal looks funky funky!!
 






Yesss it was hard to bend idk how it looked originally.
I was going to leave the OG master cylinder on there for the initial start up but the connector to the slave was different than the LUK one I got. The LUK master has a slightly smaller diameter pedal arm I noticed when the clutch switch has some play that it does not have on the OG arm. I think maybe just messin with it got it seated better or something.

Thanks to everyone who helped and commented and checked this thread out. Probably gonna have some more issues but I’ll deal with them as they come haha
 






I did a bad job with pictures but here’s what I did get
 

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Rounds abouts 600 miles and everything’s good. Popped the heater hose coming off next to the thermostat when I used my heat for the first time. It got pinched by the clamp on reinstall

Got that all fixed up but now I do not have heat. Radiators full and fans blow but it’s cold air. I had heat before engine removal

the truck runs at 180 degrees and when I turn the heat on it drops to 120 and then climbs back to about 150-160 so seems like coolant is flowing somewhere

maybe I buggered up the canister or whatever the heater hose runs to? Any thoughts or things to check would be neat

all new cooling system

the pic is operating temp with heat on

4E4EE964-DDBC-44DF-8343-17D90790F0AA.jpeg
 






You sure you have all the air bled out of the cooling system ? Check...re-check radiator level / overflow cannister and top off.... drive a couple miles.. let fully cool down....repeat..... then see if heater is back again.... if you have a lot of air in system --- no heat. Have you noticed your temp gauge moving a little sporadically?
 






Also....I should probably be quiet ...but I wish I had seen this post when it first came out...you should've replaced your camshaft sensor/ synchronizer assembly.....but don't worry ... I / we have tips to do it in vehicle ... but a headache....
 






You sure you have all the air bled out of the cooling system ? Check...re-check radiator level / overflow cannister and top off.... drive a couple miles.. let fully cool down....repeat..... then see if heater is back again.... if you have a lot of air in system --- no heat. Have you noticed your temp gauge moving a little sporadically?
Maybe that’s it. It does move but I wouldn’t say sporadically. It’ll climb to about 200 and then sit back at 180. It drops to the bottom of the gauge (like on the C) when I first turn the heat on and after a bit will rise to where it sits in the picture.

I checked the radiator this morning and it was slap full. To the cap full, so I topped off the Reservoir to the cold line and that’s where it is now.

How do I get air out the heater hose I replace
 






Also....I should probably be quiet ...but I wish I had seen this post when it first came out...you should've replaced your camshaft sensor/ synchronizer assembly.....but don't worry ... I / we have tips to do it in vehicle ... but a headache....
I should have replaced a lot but I spent a grand on what I did replace. it was a very easy pull to be honest so I guess if I need too I’ll just pull it again 😂
 






Maybe that’s it. It does move but I wouldn’t say sporadically. It’ll climb to about 200 and then sit back at 180. It drops to the bottom of the gauge (like on the C) when I first turn the heat on and after a bit will rise to where it sits in the picture.

I checked the radiator this morning and it was slap full. To the cap full, so I topped off the Reservoir to the cold line and that’s where it is now.

How do I get air out the heater hose I replace
I don't think our 4.0's / cooling design is prone to trap a lot of air from cooling system repairs...but one technique is to elevate front end/ drive front end up on parkway (your neighbors will love you for this) with radiator cap off so air bubbles rise up to highest point - radiator -- and bleed off that way- let it idle elevated like that for say 5 minutes. Some vehicles have an air bleed screw.... pretty sure our Fords do not.
 






I don't think our 4.0's / cooling design is prone to trap a lot of air from cooling system repairs...but one technique is to elevate front end/ drive front end up on parkway (your neighbors will love you for this) with radiator cap off so air bubbles rise up to highest point - radiator -- and bleed off that way- let it idle elevated like that for say 5 minutes. Some vehicles have an air bleed screw.... pretty sure our Fords do not.
Sounds like a winner I’ll give it a go
 



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Sounds like a winner I’ll give it a go
Owned the truck since 01 and always had the gauge move around. I have a stant superstat Tstat now and it moves much less. There was a tsb and a special bypass hose (long gone). It has to do with steam formation. Another TSB was to replace the temp sender and Tstat. From what I also read (in the owners manual) it could take up to 7500 miles to fully bleed the coolant system!!!! I doubt it is dropping down to 120. Should be in the 175-190 range.
 






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