Enough Engines!! A few questions...

[Freshmeat]

Okay, so I changed the oil in my Explorer (only 2k on this change, but it's been seven months, so figured I'd knock it out.) It's making plenty of valvetrain noise and also some racket in the bottom end, although it could just be the exhaust throwing me off.

Either way, I'd like to know what would be a decent engine build for this thing so I can start gathering parts when things settle down. Right now I'm rebuilding the 3.0 from my old Ranger so my dad can drive it once in a while (it was my grandfather's truck from new until he passed away in 2005.) Once that's done I'm pulling the motor from my station wagon for a H/C/I swap. Then I'm going to decide whether I chop up and build the HP44 or start building a new motor for the Ex. I have a feeling it'll be motor, unfortunately.

Should I keep the stock bottom end? I've read something about a 95TE head or something along those lines, but every time I try to search it comes up in a cluster of randomness and I'm having trouble getting a decent understanding of its application. Would I use my stock intake on that or would I need whatever intake came with the heads? Can I use the stock pushrods?

I'm not looking for a hot rod motor, but if I could get some extra power while I'm in the process, I'd be willing to piece together different things for a few more ft-lbs.

What are your suggestions on better parts for a simple engine build?

Thanks!
Woodrow

 

[Spdrcer34]

I could give you 4 or 5 threads that cover what parts to install to make more power with that 4.0L...but the problem will ALWAYS be the transmission. Its always been the weak link.

You will spend more money on building an A4LD/4R FrankenTranny than you will on your Engine....and the Transmission only looks good on paper. It hasn't been proven LONG TERM.

M5OD - I've personally broken 3 of them in 2 years.
A4LD....Automatic 4 Speed Light Duty......LIGHT DUTY! Need I say more?

Just put in a 5.0L/4R70W. You will be FAR happier, get the same mileage...and be 3x more reliable.

Ryan

 

[glfredrick]

Before you start rebuilding, what type of oil and filter are you running? Makes a difference. Fram filters are noted for creating valve train noise, and certain types of oil are not that great either.

 

[rhauf]

I'm always thinking about how i'd modify/rebuild my 4.0 when it comes time as well (although that may never happen, it still seems to be running quite well) but i'm always thinking about projects. haha.. also i did quite a bit of research for my '91 which at the time i was turbocharging (failed) and now i'm installing a different, supercharged engine in it.

anyway, i've come to the conclusion that for the 4.0 i'd rebuild it stock. with the only modifications being perhaps headers. my reasons for this are: i want it to retain its good factory "tune", and fuel economy is important (among other things) it also performs fairly well in its stock form when running well, IMO.

short of supercharging it (which there are a few kits for) I don't see any of the mods as a very good idea.

here's the low-down on the cylinder heads.. you may want to search and verify this, but this is my current understanding.. first there were 91tm heads, then they modified them slightly into the 93tm heads.. the only differences being improved casting (less cracking) and maybe an exhaust port change (smaller) although that could have come with the 95tm heads im not sure.. on the 95tm heads, they changed the chamber size, smaller i think. so if you run these heads on a stock bottom end you're compression will be around 10:1 (and if you don't cam properly, expect too much dynamic CR and pinging) when they started the 95tm heads they also went to a more dished piston, so the CR stayed the same... (my plan at one point was to run the 93tm large chamber heads with the later, dished pistons for 8:1-ish compression and then turbocharge it).

BTW, i got all the info i know about the cylinder heads and everything off this website... so search around and you'll find it all too.

my personal thoughts on installing other engines (such as a 302) is that it's more trouble than it's worth, and you're going to have serious issues with fitment. in my '91 i'm installing a supercharged v6 from a mustang (mentioned above) and i've hadto remove the heater box, cut out the frame a bit, and i'm going to be moving the engine crossmember down a couple inches as well. and that's just a v6. (although same width as a v8) it's been a 6 month project so far.... for practical purposes i'd stick with the stock v6, of course.. this build isn't to be practical, it's for the hell of it heheh.

 

[Maniak]

1st heads were 90tm, not 91 tm (just nit-picking )

When I compared the 90tm and 93tm heads the valves were the same size.. Everything else above jives with what I understand about the heads..

If you do want to go the 4.0 route and need a strong trans, another one to look into is the 700r4 using the adapter kit from Advance adapters.

~Mark

 

[Freshmeat]

Well, I like some variation. My station wagon already has a 302. My Mustang (if Ford will ever get around to building it) will have a dramatically different 302. I like my Ex having the different motor. That said, I do get the strength issue, but don't I have to chop up my A/C box and run the chokes of factory exhaust manifolds to do it?

I'm going to read a bit more about the 95TM heads as an option. I have a transmission and case I could throw behind a 302, but I just bought a house and I have a GT on order so I'm not looking to dive off into a big conversion.

Thanks for the information; I'll dig a bit more and decide when the time comes.

To answer the earlier question, I'm running full synthetic, I think Pennzoil 10w-30. Only Wix filters on all my cars. Had a Fram implode on me six years ago and will never use one again.

 

[rhauf]

Well, I like some variation. My station wagon already has a 302. My Mustang (if Ford will ever get around to building it) will have a dramatically different 302. I like my Ex having the different motor. That said, I do get the strength issue, but don't I have to chop up my A/C box and run the chokes of factory exhaust manifolds to do it?

I'm going to read a bit more about the 95TM heads as an option. I have a transmission and case I could throw behind a 302, but I just bought a house and I have a GT on order so I'm not looking to dive off into a big conversion.

Thanks for the information; I'll dig a bit more and decide when the time comes.

To answer the earlier question, I'm running full synthetic, I think Pennzoil 10w-30. Only Wix filters on all my cars. Had a Fram implode on me six years ago and will never use one again.

then you better stick with the 4.0

 

[Freshmeat]

Today I picked up a NP435. This weekend I'm going to be getting a BW-1356 and a bellhousing for the NP435. I have a "call in" to Gremlinstien regarding his NP435 conversion kit. This way I can keep the 4.0, get a strong transmission, and increase my offroad gearing.

 

[Hossexplorer]

Freshmeat, did you ever install the NP435?

 

[4x4junkie]

M5OD - I've personally broken 3 of them in 2 years.

Were you being abusive to them or something??
I'm failing to see how a built 4.0L would easily destroy a M5OD... (the M5OD is put behind 5.0L V8s in F-150s, and still has tow ratings too!) What kind of numbers does a built 4.0L make? Now I'm curious.