Entry without keyless remote?

[jwg1800]

I would like to unlock the door with the key instead of using the keyless remote but after i unlock it and open the door the alarm goes off.

Is there a way to use the key to gain entry without the alarm activating. I have a 99 Explorer XLT.

Thank you for any help.

 

[gavin]

that doesn't sound right... mine never went off if the key was used, as that deactivated the alarm.
unless, of course, it's an aftermarket alarm.

 

[jwg1800]

Thank you for the quick reply. It's definitely not an aftermarket alarm.

John

 

[gavin]

how long have you owned the truck? has this always been a problem? Ever ask the seller if he always had the same prob?

 

[gijoecam]

Here's the info I found in the OEM service manual:

Anti-Theft —Perimeter

The perimeter anti-theft system consists of the following:

driver door lock cylinder disarm switch
passenger door lock cylinder disarm switch
liftgate lock cylinder disarm switch
remote anti-theft personality (RAP) module
door open warning lamp switch
keyless entry remote transmitter
hood switch/bracket assembly
theft indicator
The door open warning lamp switch (14018) communicates to the remote anti-theft personality (RAP) module through the generic electronic module (GEM). This input to the RAP will cause the anti-theft alarm to be sounded if the anti-theft alarm was armed.

The door disarm switches are attached to the LH, RH, and liftgate door lock cylinders. The door disarm switch must be triggered before the mechanical lock unlocks. This is to prevent the anti-theft alarm from activating when it should have been disarmed.

The RAP module controls the anti-theft system and the keyless entry system. The RAP module communicates with the GEM to request that the interior lights be turned ON/OFF with use of the keyless entry remote transmitter (15K601), and the GEM communicates to the RAP to inform when the door is opened. For module communication information, refer to Section 418-00.

For additional information on the keyless entry remote transmitter, refer to Section 501-14B.

The perimeter alarm uses the door open warning lamp switch and hood switch. The RAP module also uses the autolock/relock feature to prevent theft of the vehicle. For additional information on the autolock/relock system, refer to Section 501-14B.

The anti-theft indicator is found on the instrument panel to the right of the RH turn signal indicator. The THEFT indicator is shared by the RAP and PATS modules. The THEFT indicator is illuminated during prearming by the RAP module position. The passive anti-theft system will flash the THEFT indicator with the key off.

As far as I can tell, either the door disarm switches are failing, or the input from the switch to the GEM/RAP module isn't being made. Haven't quite figgered out how to test them, but I'm working on it.....

-Joe

 

[gijoecam]

Well, looking over the schematics, it appears that a DG/VT wire feeds the disarm switch from the connection on the RAP module. The disarm switch (on the liftgate and both front doors) grounds the signal coming from the RAP module.

Soooo..... the thing to check would be to see if it sounds the alarm on all three doors, or just the driver's door. That'll tell you if the problem is with one door or the RAP module along the common wire. It's possible that the wire is broken along the way, a splice went bad, the switch(es) went bad, or a linkage came off inside a door, or the RAP module is bad. At any rate, it shouldn't be a hard thing to track down.

-Joe

 

[jwg1800]

Joe,

wow thank you for all that insight. I don't know if it has any bearing on the subject or not but I am able to get unlock and get in when using the keypad without the alarm going off. Thanks again

John

 

[gijoecam]

The keypad is a direct input to the RAP module, as is the remote signal. The fact that those work OK leads me to believe that it's either a bad door switch, or the ground signal isn't getting to the RAP module. Does the key work in the passenger door or the tailgate OK? (i.e. does manually unlocking those doors still cause the alarm to go off when they are opened?)

-Joe

 

[jwg1800]

Manually unlocking these doors does cause the alarm to go off.

Another thing. When i bought it from the dealer i specifically asked him if it had the stock alarm and he said yes but I'm wondering if this whole problem is as another guy suggested, that an aftermarket alarm was actually installed.

How can i check this out for sure? If this is the situation, is it possible to get it back to the stock alarm system?

Thanks again for all the input.

John

 

[gijoecam]

It's certainly possible you have an aftermarket unit. However, if the theft light blinks on the dash, and lights up when you lock the doors and are getting out, then it's probably a factory unit. Also, if the alarm sounds, and you start the engine and it stops, that's a factory unit.

Here's where I'd start: Disconnect the RAP module (inside the jack compartment. See my gallery link in my sig for more pics), then find the pin connected to the DG/VT (Dark Green/Violet) wire. Then, connect a multimeter to the pin set up to check for continuity to ground. Then, have someone turn the key in the door tumbler to the unlock position and check to see if you get a connection to ground. Check all three doors this way. It's unlikely that all three will fail to ground the connection. If all three do, then you have a bad wire somewhere between the connector at the RAP module and the splice where all three come together. That may mean pulling out some interior trim to find the splice (I have no idea where it would be).

If all three switches ground properly, it's possible that the RAP module itself is bad. If sending a ground signal doesn't tell the RAP module to cancel the alarm, I'd think real hard about it being bad. If you could swap it with a known good one out of a friend's car, that would tell you for sure....

-Joe