List of Useful Threads Everything I know about the M5OD-R1 & BW1354M

[nestorduran1977]

very helpfull info..thanks man, i got some problems with the cutch, and I´m thinking to change the master cylinder, in my navajo 94, but I resourface my flywheel!!, I hope the change works for me.

 

[gmanpaint]

The BW1354M is about 1.0" shorter than the BW4405 from extension housing surface to rear driveshaft flange surface. This means the rear driveshaft needs to be, or extend, 1" longer. Not sure if my 2-door Sport Rear Driveshaft, along with my 1.5" Warrior Shackles rear suspension lift, would be able to handle that extra inch. I'll get back to you when I try. I wouldn't mind swapping my single-cardan shaft for one of those double-cardan rear driveshafts that came on certain year 2-door Sport Ex's.

Doing this swap soon, 4405 to 1354m. According to this post, my stock rear drive shaft is 1" too short? I have the front shaft off the 1354 manual already, but I wasn't aware I needed to mess with my rear till now.

Has anyone else had problems using their stock rear drive shaft?

Edit:
I used my stock drive shafts, they worked just fine with the 1354m swap in the 95 EX.

 

[gmanpaint]

I am wanting to keep my full size console if I can, and this picture has given me great hope to accomplish that.

What I am curious about is which shifter is that? It looks like a short throw, and would be nice to have for ease of dash control operation. Or am I off base here, and that is just how far the shifter would normally stick out?

 

[BonesDT]

Coincidentally, any shifter should work with the full console. All u need to do is unbolt the felt pockets and you have a perfect shift hole. That's the setup I'm running. I'm using the chrome Ranger FX4 shifter. This shifter as well as the Hurst are bent a little more than the standard stock black shifter and will def clear the hole. I'm pretty sure the straighter black shifter will fit fine too. If you have a body lift, it gives you even more clearance. The shifter in that pic seems like a chopped down shortened shifter, which is an added preference, but not related to using the center console. Redline Goods makes leather shift boots specifically designed for this mod. No one will know it's not stock.

 

[herringdan]

transmission

The 5-speed Mazda M5OD-R1, also referred to as M5R1. The OD stands for OverDrive (the 5th gear). This is a different transmission from the M5OD-R2 aka M5R2. Up until later years (somewhere above '01), the manual transmission was only offered on the weaker 160hp OHV 4.0L V6, so if you wanted the more powerful 210hp SOHC, like I did in '99, then you had to get the automatic.

Finally, Ford decided to offer a man trans for the SOHC. It beefed up the trans with the upgraded M5OD-R1HD (HD for Heavy Duty). The HD had the OSS sensor hole in the extension housing.

M5OD-R1 for 2.3/3.0L engines........................3.72 2.20 1.50 1.00 0.79
M5OD-R1 for 4.0L engines.............................3.40 2.05 1.31 1.00 0.79
M5OD-R1HD................................................3.40 2.05 1.31 1.00 0.79
(Source: http://www.vibratesoftware.com/html_help/html/Ford/Ford_Transmissions_Main.htm)

This HD trans is hard to get your hands on. It's been said the regular R1 could hold up to the SOHC just fine, but I was fortunate enough to find the HD.

what will fit a 91 exployer 2 door 5speed what type will fit?

 

[minelson17]

...so what about 5.0's

This is a great post for the 4.0 Manual lovers....but what can you tell me about those of us with a 5.0 that want to do the shifting ourselves?

I am about to swap my 4.0 in my Manual 1992 4x4 Ex for a 302 coming out of another Ex. It's gotta be a manual, I'm sure you can relate. Of course, the 5.0 thats coming to me is bolted up to an automatic. I'm not even sure if ford made the 5.0 ex's with a manual tranny??

I've been trying to find what the best route is on here, I've seen everything from F-150 transmissions, adapter kits, etc. I will be making some mods like a new cam, custom aluminum heads, custom headers, but thats all I have planned....no 347 stroker for me. But I do need to make sure I have a transmission strong enough to handle the new muscle, esp since I'll be wheeling this thing. Any thoughts? Thanks in advance.

 

[gmanpaint]

Coincidentally, any shifter should work with the full console. All u need to do is unbolt the felt pockets and you have a perfect shift hole. That's the setup I'm running. I'm using the chrome Ranger FX4 shifter. This shifter as well as the Hurst are bent a little more than the standard stock black shifter and will def clear the hole. I'm pretty sure the straighter black shifter will fit fine too. If you have a body lift, it gives you even more clearance. The shifter in that pic seems like a chopped down shortened shifter, which is an added preference, but not related to using the center console. Redline Goods makes leather shift boots specifically designed for this mod. No one will know it's not stock.

Thanks for the help here I am going to get the Redline boot setup.

So we have 3 options for shifters.

Stock
Hurst
FX4

I seen the Hurst online @ Summit for $220, (comes complete with boot that we cant use with full console)

I haven't seen the FX4 yet, any idea what the cost is for it?

 

[BonesDT]

This is a great post for the 4.0 Manual lovers....but what can you tell me about those of us with a 5.0 that want to do the shifting ourselves?

I am about to swap my 4.0 in my Manual 1992 4x4 Ex for a 302 coming out of another Ex. It's gotta be a manual, I'm sure you can relate. Of course, the 5.0 thats coming to me is bolted up to an automatic. I'm not even sure if ford made the 5.0 ex's with a manual tranny??

I've been trying to find what the best route is on here, I've seen everything from F-150 transmissions, adapter kits, etc. I will be making some mods like a new cam, custom aluminum heads, custom headers, but thats all I have planned....no 347 stroker for me. But I do need to make sure I have a transmission strong enough to handle the new muscle, esp since I'll be wheeling this thing. Any thoughts? Thanks in advance.

I too am starting to research a 5.0/5.8 swap. And of course, it's gotta be a manual! No 5.0 Ex's were sticks. I'm a noob on this topic, I was assuming the T5 was the trans of choice, but I believe the M5OD-R2 aka M5R2 trans is the one to use for this setup. Unfortunately, this trans also has a hydraulic clutch, which is one of the things I want to avoid as part of a drivetrain overhaul like this. I'm def going to figure out how to convert it to a cable clutch, or in the least, convert it to an external hydraulic slave cylinder.

Anyway, an issue your going to have to tackle is the engine computer. You might be able to get away with jumping some wires like I did, or you might need a flash chip ... or a whole new computer from a different vehicle with a 5.0L EFI with a manual.

Keep me posted on what you learn.

 

[BonesDT]

I haven't seen the FX4 yet, any idea what the cost is for it?

The first post has the part # and dealership price. The other option is to stalk a junkyard or ebay/craigs list - but you might be waiting a long time until one pops up for sale. This is a rare part that is discontinued by Ford. It is no where near as rare as the FX4 transfer case shifer, more Ranger FX4s, for more years, were outfitted with the manual trans than the manual t-case.

 

[minelson17]

I too am starting to research a 5.0/5.8 swap. And of course, it's gotta be a manual! No 5.0 Ex's were sticks. I'm a noob on this topic, I was assuming the T5 was the trans of choice, but I believe the M5OD-R2 aka M5R2 trans is the one to use for this setup. Unfortunately, this trans also has a hydraulic clutch, which is one of the things I want to avoid as part of a drivetrain overhaul like this. I'm def going to figure out how to convert it to a cable clutch, or in the least, convert it to an external hydraulic slave cylinder.

Anyway, an issue your going to have to tackle is the engine computer. You might be able to get away with jumping some wires like I did, or you might need a flash chip ... or a whole new computer from a different vehicle with a 5.0L EFI with a manual.

Keep me posted on what you learn.

Thanks for the clarification, you see a lot of stuff on this site, sometimes it's hard to keep it all straight with all the options out there. I guess my next question would be, in order to avoid mismatching engines and trannys, is it less of a pain to swap with Mustang 5.0 that comes with a manual tranny? Or does that cause more headaches with space and motormount assembly?

I'll ask the questions to my engine guy, see what he's thinking regarding the computer. One more thing, we're looking to put an off road 650 or 670 Hollie carb...so I'm not sure what difference that makes for me.

 

[BonesDT]

This thread is about M5OD-R1 and the BW1354. The 5.0 Swap is not my expertise, but hopefully it will be soon. It's my understanding that it's easier to use an Ex's 5.0 than a Stang's 5.0, but I don't know the details, probably a lot to do with the running/accessory gear. I would want to lean towards the Ex's because it's probably built (cams) for low end torque as opposed to the Stang's high end revving horsepower, which interests me in my Ex.

If your going with a carb, then you don't have anything to worry about with the engine computer. It also probably eliminates most of the advantages of sourcing the 5.0 from the Ex, so you have better options. If I were to go with a carb, I'd go with a crate engine from Ford Racing, you can get them in all ranges.

 

[Sandy]

How do you replace the Cup on the Front Output Shaft to a Std CV and adapt the SuperLift Drive Shaft to it ?
If you had the Electric T/C and used the SL Shaft will it take the same parts ?

The OSS, has anyone been able to purchase the Straight Version in the picture ?
Seems the replacement is at a 90 degree angle, sound good but it is clocked wrong for a good fit.

Thanks,

 

[BonesDT]

How do you replace the Cup on the Front Output Shaft to a Std CV and adapt the SuperLift Drive Shaft to it ?
If you had the Electric T/C and used the SL Shaft will it take the same parts ?

I think this is "impossible". To swap the front driveshaft flanges on these T/Cs requires swapping at least the shaft inside - so at that point, you might as well replace the whole T/C with the right one.

I see you have a 2003 Ranger Edge. Can you confirm whether your TC is the BW4405 Torq-Trac (has Auto 4wd option) or the BW1354 electric?

The SL Shaft is just a mass-produced extended version of the older-style double-cardan shaft. My recommendation is to take your newer-style CV cup style shaft to a driveshaft specialist to have him extend it.

Otherwise, if you really want the double-cardan shaft, swap out your 2003 BW1354E with an older case (91-94 Explorers).

The OSS, has anyone been able to purchase the Straight Version in the picture ?
Seems the replacement is at a 90 degree angle, sound good but it is clocked wrong for a good fit.

I see what you mean. The straight OSS uses a metal retainer too, but my 90-degree elbow OSS is one solid piece of plastic that you put the bolt right into. Also see how my OSS in the top pic is clocked with the bolt hole directly horizontal, while the retainer version is clocked downward. The part number I supplied in the second post is this 90-degree elbow. I had a hell of a time getting that part number, so I can't help you with the other one.

 

[Ssgt Pool]

I know this is an old thread, but what does in take to put the M5OD-R1 into the Explorer? I have an 02 and I would like to make it a 5 speed and keep everything else the way it is Any help?

 

[gmanpaint]

I can use a bit of help here as well. I just dropped the 4r55e out of a 95 EX. I have a M5R1 out of a 94 EX for a swap. I got everything from the 94 for the swap except the ECM. I got that out of a 95 Manual EX.

My problem is this.....The wiring harness from the 94 will not work. The connectors are different. 95 are square, 94 harness are round.

What do you suggest? Look for a 95 manual harness? Do I have to cut into the 94 harness and splice into the 95 harness? I'm stuck and the rig is as well.

Thank you for any advice on the matter.

Edit: Found a 95 trans harness out of a Ranger. This has the black square 16 pin (only 14 pins in it) to the engine harness only. No round connector, as that is for the hydro pump on the auto. Now I am trying to find a diagram for the OBDII M5R1 trans harness.

 

[gmanpaint]

Do you have a picture of the CPP showing where the CPP connects to the clutch pedal?

Sorry if I have missed it somewhere.

 

[90ranajo]

Do you have a picture of the CPP showing where the CPP connects to the clutch pedal?

Sorry if I have missed it somewhere.

The CPP just wraps around the master cylinder shaft, butted up to the bottom of the cylinder.

 

[gmanpaint]

The CPP just wraps around the master cylinder shaft, butted up to the bottom of the cylinder.

Thanks! Every little bit helps!

Wish I had a stock manual to look at, sure would make things easier for me

 

[90ranajo]

I could help out more if I was home with my truck. You could always go down to Turdles and look at his tranny and parts. As he does have my old '95 Ranger M5OD-R1 with everything but the trans wiring harness.

 

[gmanpaint]

I could help out more if I was home with my truck. You could always go down to Turdles and look at his tranny and parts. As he does have my old '95 Ranger M5OD-R1 with everything but the trans wiring harness.

LOL...I'm sure it is so covered up with other stuff he don't even know where it is anymore. :

Last time I was over there was like 4 engines, a couple rear ends, gobs of tires, parts for powder, spread out everywhere. We might need to send out a search party for that old trans of yours...ahaha