Everytime I come to a stop, the ABS kicks it, but breaks work great, so far...

[LukusDemetri]

Yeah, I needed a vehicle, and was/am in no position to be picky. There are a few issues from the gate. I smell gas, and have recently found a little gas on the floor of my garage. As in the heading, every time I am nearly stopped, I hear the ABS noise as the brake pedal seems to go (if you will) flat. Currently, these are the two biggest issues that need address ASAP. I have a 3 yo son, and I WILL NOT put him at risk! But this is my only mode of transportation, so I must fix everything. Any help/advise/insight will be sincerely appreciated! Thanks guys!

 

[96eb96]

Hello Sir,
I also own a 96
The ABS problem could be a wheel sensor that is not reporting speed properly. There will not be a light or codes because the computer believes the sensor and activates the ABS. If it turns out to be the front, your best bet is to replace the hub, the sensor cost almost the same and will probably break off coming out. If it is the rear, then there is an inexpensive sensor on top of the differential.

Those are some educated guesses but I strongly suggest purchasing the BAFX adapter (cheap, $19) mentioned a few posts up and getting free forscan. You will have the same information as the dealer for every system on your car.

You will be able to monitor your ABS signals and pinpoint which has the problem. I know it works with a 96 because I worked with the author on that functionality, so good to take advantage!

The gas could be a rusted out tank or lines. I strongly also suggest looking over the brake lines for rust. They do fail, and if the lines look bad plan on replacing all of them.

 

[LukusDemetri]

I thank you for your response. Not sure if it relates to the ABS issue or not, but I just noticed a reddish orange plug disconnected to (I think) the master cylinder. I plugged it into where it belongs, but I have the vehicle jacked up on stands. Going to change the spark plugs. Also, I am going to remove the coil pack and clean in between the contact points. Thinking while I am at it, I might as well clean the MAF sensor too. The fuel leak is dropping into a consistent point just before inside the passenger side wheel . But I thank you for your time!

 

[LukusDemetri]

I thank you for your response. Not sure if it relates to the ABS issue or not, but I just noticed a reddish orange plug disconnected to (I think) the master cylinder. I plugged it into where it belongs, but I have the vehicle jacked up on stands. Going to change the spark plugs. Also, I am going to remove the coil pack and clean in between the contact points. Thinking while I am at it, I might as well clean the MAF sensor too. The fuel leak is dropping into a consistent point just before inside the driver side wheel . But I thank you for your time!

 

[96eb96]

I thank you for your response. Not sure if it relates to the ABS issue or not, but I just noticed a reddish orange plug disconnected to (I think) the master cylinder. I plugged it into where it belongs, but I have the vehicle jacked up on stands. Going to change the spark plugs. Also, I am going to remove the coil pack and clean in between the contact points. Thinking while I am at it, I might as well clean the MAF sensor too. The fuel leak is dropping into a consistent point just before inside the passenger side wheel . But I thank you for your time!

Be sure to coat the inside of the wires from the coilpack with silicon dielectric paste before putting them back. Just on the rubber. Check if the coil pack is cracked, if so it probably needs to be replaced.

The brown plug to the master may be the recall harness for the cruise control switch. Keep us posted!

 

[Spuddy]

... you have the old Cruise Control Deactivation Switch, it's possible that brake fluid can leak and then catch on fire.

...[The original, defective] switch is an Orange color. I believe the newer safer switches are black.

 

[drdoom]

I recently replaced the fuel filler neck on my '97 XLT. They rust out where the rubber hose connects to it.

 

[LukusDemetri]

Any ideas on the ABS diode that is with the other fuses under the hood? I took it out, and tested it with a volt-meter (like testing any other fuse) but the meter didn't move at all... This vehicle is going to need A LOT of work! Fuel lines, brake lines; a lot of rust underneath. I wish I wasn't so desperate for a vehicle! This might cost me a lot in the end, and I live off of SSDI. I don't get much money per month. And I don't want to cut corners and put my son's safety at risk! Please help!!

 

[96eb96]

It is a 22 yo vehicle now that lived in the salt belt so you will have to do all those repairs somehow to make it safe. Brake lines are necessary to do if they are rusty, they can fail at any time and nothing has to be said there. The good part is you can replace them for under $30. Tools can be rented with a deposit. How is the suspension? Ball Joints, etc. That could get relatively expensive, even DIY. You don't want to buy bargain parts for that. If the front torsion bars are severely rusted and missing paint you may consider changing them as well, not a common thing, but I had one snap. I had the tubes on the power steering rack leak due to rust. Don't want to scare you but it will need repair and reconditioning if you want to keep it as a daily driver. If it was an Arizona truck it would be another story.

How many miles on the Truck? The engine is pretty solid but the Transmission is not the best, but maybe a bit simpler and less failure prone than the later year v6 5 speed transmissions. Hopefully it was maintained well. 95-96 Trucks seem to fair well from experience on the boards. V8 trucks are very solid. Any 2nd gen Explorer you buy today is likely to need some sweat equity. You are fortunate it is not an SOHC from 97+, that is a whole other can of worms.

 

[Spuddy]

Any ideas on the ABS diode that is with the other fuses under the hood? I took it out, and tested it with a volt-meter (like testing any other fuse) but the meter didn't move at all...

The ABS diode is a diode, and not a fuse. For a plumbing analogy, it can be thought of as a one-way valve. It allows current to flow in one direction only (and , therefore blocks all AC current.)
To test a diode without a diode tester (most multimeters have these nowadays, even cheap ones) you can measure the resistance across it. In one direction it will be infinite and in the other it should read ~320K ohms.

If your multimeter has a diode setting it will be marked with a symbol that looks something like this...

And if it does, testing a diode will read good only in one direction. That's what it's supposed to do.

BTW - here's a link where you can get a copy of your owner's manual, if you don't have one...
https://www.motorcraftservice.com/OwnerInformation/Get

 

[LukusDemetri]

thank you! Very much appreciated!

 

[Spuddy]

The fuel leak is dropping into a consistent point just before inside the passenger side wheel .

I would make tracking down that fuel leak my first priority!
Then, get after those rusty brake lines, as mentioned above.

Sorry that it took so long to get back to you on your diode question. I had the answer but couldn't remember which thread the question was in.

 

[LukusDemetri]

It is a 22 yo vehicle now that lived in the salt belt so you will have to do all those repairs somehow to make it safe. Brake lines are necessary to do if they are rusty, they can fail at any time and nothing has to be said there. The good part is you can replace them for under $30. Tools can be rented with a deposit. How is the suspension? Ball Joints, etc. That could get relatively expensive, even DIY. You don't want to buy bargain parts for that. If the front torsion bars are severely rusted and missing paint you may consider changing them as well, not a common thing, but I had one snap. I had the tubes on the power steering rack leak due to rust. Don't want to scare you but it will need repair and reconditioning if you want to keep it as a daily driver. If it was an Arizona truck it would be another story.

How many miles on the Truck? The engine is pretty solid but the Transmission is not the best, but maybe a bit simpler and less failure prone than the later year v6 5 speed transmissions. Hopefully it was maintained well. 95-96 Trucks seem to fair well from experience on the boards. V8 trucks are very solid. Any 2nd gen Explorer you buy today is likely to need some sweat equity. You are fortunate it is not an SOHC from 97+, that is a whole other can of worms.

There is 99,820 miles on it; it was actually what sold me on it. The last owners title verifies this, because there was only 88xxx what he titled it. 2 door Sport. 6 cylinder 4.0. I don't know much else about its' past, because the guy was very vague with me. Price was right; only paid 550 for it. I found (what I think is) where the fuel is leaking. Seems to be dripping somewhere from the underside of the tank/fuel cell. It's rusty! I mean, so bad that I am going to order one on Monday. Going to have to wire wheel the "tank guard" and paint it. I have removed the "guard", and going to remove the fuel cell too. However, I have hit another wall, so to speak. The spare tire is rusted on! Not even sure what to to yet! Can't use a torch or grinder; don't feel like getting blown up! As far as the ABS goes, I am thinking that I am just going to disable it for the time being; hopefully I can have that repaired by next winter. The problem with the vibration while at cruising speed (not accelerating) was due to a fouled plug. Misfire on cylinder 3. Swapped out that old plug, and the engine seems to be running smoothly and no more vibration. The ball joints seem fine. The shocks will soon need replaced b/c they're about rusted out. The U-joints seem fine and the 4x4 works well. The grease fitting (for the most part) are intact. The rubber boot fittings are all intact too. I am thinking from the last inspection, it has sat outside, in the dirt for at least a year. I will get it all in order; just hope it holds together for a few more months. GOT TO GET A JOB! Thanks again sir!

 

[LukusDemetri]

I would make tracking down that fuel leak my first priority!
Then, get after those rusty brake lines, as mentioned above.

Sorry that it took so long to get back to you on your diode question. I had the answer but couldn't remember which thread the question was in.

See my reply to that other gentleman. As far as the brakes go, it appears that the lines were replaced at some point. THey're vinyl, I think. May be rubber... Will change the brake lines as well as the fuel lines next week. Thanks again man!

 

[LukusDemetri]

I would make tracking down that fuel leak my first priority!
Then, get after those rusty brake lines, as mentioned above.

Sorry that it took so long to get back to you on your diode question. I had the answer but couldn't remember which thread the question was in.

See my reply to that other gentleman. As far as the brakes go, it appears that the lines were replaced at some point. THey're vinyl, I think. May be rubber... Will change the brake lines as well as the fuel lines next week. Thanks again man!

 

[Spuddy]

Glad to help. Sounds like you're on the right track Keep us posted.

 

[96eb96]

At 100K she has plenty of life left. If the brake lines were replaced you can probably skip that.
In the winter I paint something called fluid film all over the truck and rust is not a problem anymore. Not the cheapest stuff but it keeps it structurally sound. It actually makes rust easier to come off and it can be primed and painted, that along with the FF stops rust. The FF attracts dirt and that actually helps keep it on. Guess used oil would work too, but that is up for debate.

I would also pull the trans dipstick and if the fluid isn't burnt I would do a pan drop and filter change with Mercon V fluid ONLY. No universal fluids. The Walmart supertech Mercon V stuff is very good, or you can go to the Ford site and find a DISTRIBUTOR of motorcraft parts (usually you put in a big city near you). They sell the Motorcraft stuff on discount, have a simple counter, maybe the same as Walmart. If you plan on keeping the truck there is an inexpensive pan with a drain plug. It is like $20, I know money is tight but a transmission could be over $2000. It is fine to drop the pan and refill too.

Drop the pan, clean it out, change the filter. Add back fluid. A year later you may want to repeat this or even pump fluid out of the lines and replace all 13 quarts.


100K is time to change the rear end fluid. If you have a limited slip add some friction modifier.


Change the transfer case fluid too. DO NOT USE MERCON V. DO NOT USE MERCON V. Use a regular mercon product that does not say suitable for Mercon V (Walmart has this too), or buy Motorcraft Transfer case fluid.

Also, you may want to invest $20 in the BAFX adapter down the line (there are some cheaper ones but it must say Ford Compatible), then you can use free forscan software to diagnose your truck.

I know it sounds like a bit of money up front but I'm sure you know how shops take advantage for even the smallest things.

Good Luck, Sir!

 

[Spuddy]

Change the transfer case fluid too. DO NOT USE MERCON V. DO NOT USE MERCON V. Use a regular mercon product that does not say suitable for Mercon V

^ Mercon V is superior to Mercon which is no longer widely available. Nothing wrong with running Mercon V (or full synthetic, if you prefer) in the transfer case.

MERCON ATF IS BRING REPLACED BY MERCON V ATF AS A SERVICE FLUID ( Issue Date 2006-07-24)

http://www.revbase.com/BBBMotor/TSb/DownloadPdf?id=134113