Exhaust manifold studs

[07EddyB]

I have what I believe is an exhaust leak from my passenger side manifold. I has the same behaviors and symptoms that I've read about here. I took a look this weekend and was surprised to see all of my studs in place. That made me think that maybe it was something else. However, after thinking about it more, I decided that maybe a stud was broke but still in place due to rust between the nut and the manifold. Has this been your experience? When a stud breaks does it fall out or just sit there waiting for you to crank on it?

 

[Explorer_PL]

The stud may be broken and still attach tom the manifold, that was my case. Until I started turning it, it looked so promising, and then all you pull is a piece of stud.
Which motor ?

 

[07EddyB]

4.6 of course. I guess now I have to decide if I finally let someone else work on it or if I buy a right angle drill and a set of left handed drill bits.

 

[Bill MacLeod]

The oe studs will break just before the threads contact the heads. And yes, any corrosion around the nut may hold it in place but with no clamping force hence the leak. Check the bottom of cylinders 1 & 2, and/or 5 & 6. These locations seem to be the most prone to break.

Check out the Makita electric angle drill. Expensive, but just what's needed.. Couple of sheeter (stubby) drill bits and an auto center punch will do the job.

 

[07EddyB]

I just looked at the Makita - I was looking at the DeWalt. The DeWalt is cheaper by about $50 but lacks an LED light and the head is about an inch thicker. Buying that and some bits really eats into the cost savings but I do a lot of work around the house and have needed a right angle drill multiple times before so it wouldn't be a one time use deal. I'm really starting to lean toward tackling it myself. Are stubbies required or would jobber length work with the right angle drill in that space?

 

[Explorer_PL]

Maybe that will help some:

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums...ds-replacement-on-4-6-v8.416927/#post-3354454

 

[Explorer_PL]

The critical thing is to center punch the broken stud exactly in the center. Otherwise, you'll drill the head.

 

[Bill MacLeod]

Its all about access (or lack of). You will need as much space as possible between the head and the strut towers to drill out any studs that are broken at #1,2,5 &6 especially.
I checked out all the angle drills last fall at a tool store. (Makita, dewalt, bosch, metabo, hitachi, Milwaukee, etc.) The Makita was at least 1" shorter at the chuck depth. Plus has a speed dial. Add in the led. and reverse put it to the top of my list. (remember that it is the old style keyed chuck).
I mentioned stubby drill bits because a standard length will have a tendency to walk and will flex then break if too much pressure is applied. Plus they give you just a little more room in a tight situation. Sizes around 1/16 to 1/8" are best. Or buy some left hand drill bits, they also work very well in this situ.

PL has you covered in his thread.