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Received this subwoofer and it fits great behind the 2nd row seats, tucks in very nicely, probably don't even need to secure it as it is a tight fit. It is 10" wide and 10" high.

http://www.amazon.com/Powerbass-BTA8-Single-8-Inch-Enclosure/dp/B0081OQRAO/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top?ie=UTF8

When the third row seats are folded in they extend just over the top of it so no issue there either. Going to wire it in this week and will report back. The subwoofer looks to be done in exactly the same carpet color as my black interior, so once installed will be very hard to know it is even there. The writing on the sides isn't seen once down in that crevice behind the 2nd row seats.
 






Sub Install 2016 XLT with Premium Radio - 9 Speaker

Bought this vehicle a month or so ago and replaced all front/ rear door speakers with Pioneers so now decided to do a stand alone sub with built in amplifier. Above this post is my older post with the link to that sub at Amazon. I used a Boss 8 gauge wiring kit which is a pretty good deal, the fuse itself used at the battery is worth as much as the kit if bought alone. The sub spec sheet recommends a 10 gauge power wire so this one worked fine. Bought a Line Out Converter you will see in the pics and some misc connectors.

Wiring Kit - http://www.amazon.com/Audio-Amplifier-Installation-Performance-Interconnect/dp/B000FKP7TY

Power - ran thru the firewall just to the left of the steering linkage , easy to get thru , ran a pilot hole , then drilled a bigger hole which accommodated a 3/8" rubber grommet and 8 gauge wire , siliconed that in place after, not seen in this pic- ran wire under drivers side door moldings - cable tied wire in place with black cable sleeve over it in engine compartment

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Radio pulled out from dash - blue tap connectors used to bridge Line Out Converter to front speaker wires and subs remote on/off wire to switched 12v DC. Side moldings pull out from dash, be gentle and take your time , rest of the radio/screen molding pulls/pops up and off as well, quick disconnect for wiring harness. I use a plastic molding tool kit (about $10) to remove trim and molding so it doesn't damage the plastic like screwdrivers might. Then bolts secure the radio to dash which you can remove.

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Connections at radio - I ran wire down into the dash, thru the center console area , out the rear of it and under the rug to the box marked X which comes off , then over to seat belt hole cut in carpet and up to the speaker. Grounded at seat bolt lug.

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Speaker installed between 2nd and 3rd row - 3rd row seats are not impacted by speaker - it fits in crevice , they can extend up over the speaker - the 2nd row seats when in place hold the speaker in place - nice tight fit - after this pic I cleaned up the wiring and put a black sleeve over it all- the carpet on the subwoofer exactly matches the black carpet of the vehicle

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The bass control I placed inside the storage area of the center console, it is hidden as once set up I don't need much access to it. Still you can lift the lid reach in and change the bass up or down it if you want. The bass control at the radio also will raise or lower the bass on the sub. You can adjust the gain etc. at the sub as well. The sub turns on and off with the radio. I found the color of the switched DC voltage was light blue with a small purple stripe on it which you can't see clearly in the picture above.

When I get rid of the vehicle if need be I can cut the wires and tape them, take the sub out. I don't use the 3rd row seat area for anything but storage, the sub would get in the way of anyone sitting in those seats though as it would be at their feet.

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Really happy with how this has worked out. Took about 4 hours to install the sub start to finish, my son helped out. Now with the Pioneer fronts and this rear sub the system sounds great, very full , rich with lots of bass.
 






Sony stereo upgrade in progress

Alright guys, this sony stereo is just awful on my new '16 sport. I love Ford I own 4 (see sig) but this Sony system is a complete drag.

Here are the upgrades (will put exact model info on here post upgrade for anyone that wants to try it)

Audisen processor

Kenwood KAC-8406 for door speakers (4 channel 900 watt but 70 rms X 4 @ 4ohms)
Kenwood KAC-9106D 2000 watts (1000 rms at 2 ohm) amp for subs
2 12" pioneer flat subwoofers Ts-sw3002s4
12" ASC regular cab pickup truck sub box

I left the door speakers factory for now but I will probably replace them with infinity kappa eventually. I have them in my f150, and my past three explorers.

I went with such a small box and flat subs because I like that they can be easily removed. They're light, and I was so impressed when I first heard these subs in a friends f150 regular cab. These flat subs in this tiny box do NOT sound like they look. I have this same setup in my 2008 explorer that takes up almost no room but hits pretty hard and sounds clean at low volumes. This coming from someone whose last explorer (prior to my 08 I had an 03 you can see photos if you search my threads) had 4 12" Orion HCCA, and a giant ported box with a 5000D Orion amp. The tiny subs and box are more than enough for me. In my explorer I have a pioneer spl amp that puts out a bench tested 1000 rms just like this kenwood. I avoided the new pioneer amp because it puts out less power and I've heard it does not measure up. This kenwood is supposed to be pretty comparable. We will see.

My sound guy at Xtreme Vehicle Designs is very knowledgable. I will be able to keep all of my factory controls and head unit/navigation. I've always upgraded to pioneer nav units so this is all new to me.

I will let you know what I think. From what I understand, I will be able to use most or all of my current speakers. They'll be tuned with the new processor. The current Sony amp does not allow for easy upgrades because it does HORRIBLE processing itself.

I will be having the amps and everything installed in the spare tire spot, so I can get full use of my seats. I will have a bit of fatmat installed on the rear and in panels as they go along.

I will post photos and a review of the setup.

Cost: all amps subs and box were about $550 on Amazon. The processor is about $250, and the labor about $400 putting the total job at about $1200. I was quoted 1800-2500 elsewhere for comparable work from other shops. I've used Xtreme for a long time and they were honest with me about what to do as described above without totally breaking the bank. If you are good at installing your own stuff, you could save $400.

Pictures and a review to follow, the work will be done Wednesday. I posted a pic pre 22's which are also on order for you guys.
 

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Pictures and a review to follow, the work will be done Wednesday.

Where are you putting these sub enclosures? Got any images of the work? Just picked up a 16' XLT and I need some low-end extension. I have the 2nd row bucket seat do you think a low profile sub could get in under one of those (or even a front row seat).
 






Where are you putting these sub enclosures? Got any images of the work? Just picked up a 16' XLT and I need some low-end extension. I have the 2nd row bucket seat do you think a low profile sub could get in under one of those (or even a front row seat).

Behind the third row they're light and small so easily removable if need be. I will have photos Friday ups hasn't shipped one of my amps yet :/

I'm not sure, someone who knows what they are doing can do almost anything!
 






There is room behind the 2nd row seats for a low profile sub, no problem. I went with the bigger 8" upright box as you can see above in my pic and it fits in. Originally I looked at doing a low profile but when I realized I could fit this bigger sub in and the seat would lock it down I went with it.

The only issue I find is that the sub needs to be lifted out and then put back in if you want to fold the bench rear seat down and then back up again if the sub is installed on the 2/3's section. If you were to put the sub on the 1/3 section behind the 2nd row that seat slide back and forth and it would be less problematic, the larger 2/3's section will not slide. I rarely fold that 2nd row down so it was no issue for me. When the seat is upright there is now way my sub can move, the seat holds it very tight. Wouldn't want it moving around in case of a sudden stop or accident. The bass this box added is significant, of course it wouldn't match a couple of 12's as the poster above is adding.
 






Power - ran thru the firewall just to the left of the steering linkage , easy to get thru , ran a pilot hole , then drilled a bigger hole which accommodated a 3/8" rubber grommet and 8 gauge wire , siliconed that in place after, not seen in this pic- ran wire under drivers side door moldings - cable tied wire in place with black cable sleeve over it in engine compartment

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Here is an inside view of the grommet coming through the firewall:

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Here is one taken further back showing grommet going in from engine compartment:
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Dan & XLT16,

Any advice for how you guys drilled through the firewall in this location? I attempted to do the same today and because of the angle of the firewall the bit just wanted to walk up the incline, I could get my drill in there enough to match the angle. I don't feel like my drill is large or anything.

I have the rest of the amp install done, just this one last part.
 






Dan & XLT16,

Any advice for how you guys drilled through the firewall in this location? I attempted to do the same today and because of the angle of the firewall the bit just wanted to walk up the incline, I could get my drill in there enough to match the angle. I don't feel like my drill is large or anything.

I have the rest of the amp install done, just this one last part.

You might have to remove the plastic under the steering wheel if your finding the drill won't fit in their. There is a couple of screws that hold it on. You will see some info here at this link on how to pull that panel off. I used a battery powered drill and it worked in there. I also used a pilot hole with a fine drill bit (stops it from sliding sideways on the steel) and then drilled a bigger one to match the size of the grommet used.

http://www.paulstravelpictures.com/Ford-Explorer-Electrical-Fuse-Replacement-Guide/

This is link to a pic of that panel that might need to be removed...

http://www.paulstravelpictures.com/Ford-Explorer-Electrical-Fuse-Replacement-Guide/Ford-Explorer-Electrical-Fuse-Replacement-Guide-007.html
 






I drilled mine from the outside in... but started with a small bit to get a pilot hole started before going with the larger bore.

I do feel your pain in getting that cable ran through the firewall. Definitely the hardest part of my entire install.

Good luck.
 






Ok, I completed the install. I used a right angle attachment to get at the incline angle on drilling through the firewall area.

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Once I had the hole, I had a flashlight illuminate the hole and crawled under the the truck to find it from that side and pushed the power wire through while wrapping it in wire loom.

I installed an Apline PWE-S8, a 8-inch amplified subwoofer under the driver seat. It puts out a little more than I anticipated. It accepts high level in and can turn-on based on high level detection thus not needing a remote wire. It has more output than every other factory sub I've heard, so it's a very reasonable upgrade to those with the non-sub premium (XLT). I've not heard the Sony audio system, so it could be an upgrade for that as well. It has a lot of output in about the 50Hz to 70Hz range. It falls a little hollow around 30Hz and under. My previous vehicle was a e90 BMW 3-series that had factory 8" subs under each front seat that I upgraded to Earthquake drivers years ago. The alpine has better upper sub range (the 50-70Hz) than the earthquake but lower performance in the 30Hz area. I am planning to put a 2nd one in under the passenger seat and lower the cross-over some so as to gain more lower end output without being to heavy in the upper range.

Here are a few more images from my install that I snapped. I didn't take any of the firewall penetration as I did it the same as XLT16 and Dan, and don't have any more to add other than using the $17 right angle drill attachment to make life easier.

This image shows the tab/retention clip locations of the trim pieces surrounding the radio/touchscreen. This was one of the more nervous parts as in colder temperatures a thin plastic trim piece could snap easily. I used a panel removal tool and just slowly pried along and made progress.

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I wanted to show the black retention pin, this guy makes pulling the trim piece off much harder. I didn't reinstall it when putting it all back together with the hope that it will make life easier if I have to get in there again. I don't anticipate any rattling or buzzing by not having these nor is the trim not tightly snapped in. I did get the pins in case I want to put them back in.
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This is what the sub looks like with the driver seat nearly 100% forward. The angle doesn't show it well but the black cross bar sticks out more than the subwoofer does.
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I used some adhesive velcro strips to hold the sub in place and place a strip on the my all weather mat, will do the same with my standard mat once winter passes.
 






Nice job! Certainly a positive to get some bass on that system, I couldn't stand mine without the sub.
 






We have bass!

Bass makes all the difference! I thought I was going to replace all the rest of the factory speakers, but after just adding the sub and listening for awhile I "think" I'll leave it for now.

Enjoy!
 






I ended up using a unibit/step bit because I needed to get a hole drilled bigger than my largest (1/2") bit...the unibit let me drill about a 5/8" hole through the firewall in roughly the same location. I picked up a grommet at Lowes that let me pass a 4 gage power wire through with a snug fit.
 






Just completed a little project to upgrade my 2016 XLT (202A package with 9-speaker premium stereo).
System includes:
Factory radio with 8" MyFord Touch Screen
Audio Control DQ-61 Processor
JL Audio 300/4 Amplifier
JL Audio XD600/1 Amplifier
Focal Polyglass 165VR 6.5" Components
Focal Polyglass IC165 6.5" Coaxials
2 JL Audio 12W3v3 Subwoofers

The DQ-61 was installed in the top tray area of the glove compartment. The front and rear speaker outputs from the factory radio were used as inputs for the DQ-61; output RCA cables carry signal for front, rear, and subs to the amplifiers. A sub level control knob was installed in the center console bin.

Amplifiers were mounted under the front driver's and passenger seats.

Custom trim plates were made from two layers of 5/8" cutting board material (fronts) and two layers of 3/8" cutting board material for the rears in order to replicate the shape and thickness of the factory speaker integrated baffles. Cutting boards are made of high density plastic which is rigid, waterproof, and won't warp. Weather stripping was used to seal the custom plates against the door. More weather stripping was used to create a sealing ring between the front of the speaker and the door panel. Sheet metal was cut to size to cover the large access holes in each door; it was also sealed with weatherstripping to the door and secured with screws....this achieves a better seal and helps with midbass ouput. Center channel and 3rd row seat speakers were simply disconnected.

A custom sub enclosure was built for the "well" area behind the 3rd row of seats. The enclosure is made of 3/4" MDF and fills the area up to the base of the plastic trim. It holds two 12" subwoofers, each in their own sealed 1.2 cubic foot half of the enclosure. A false floor panel was made from 1/2" oak plywood to fill the floor of the rear cargo area. Holes were cut where the subs fire through and 1/2" expanded metal grills were cut and mounted to the panel. The panel was then covered with black carpet to match the interior carpet.
With the panel in place the subs and enclosure become stealth.

Would love to post some pics, but I'm not a premium member.

As you might have guessed, the sound is night & day difference versus the factory setup. The best part is that it maintains all of the factory functionality (touchscreen, Sirius, steering wheel controls, SYNC, etc.) and gives the sound of a completely aftermarket system.

All that's left to do is a some sound deadening in the doors, but I have to say that I'm very happy with the sound even without it.
 






Someone please help him post pictures!!!!!!We need to see this sub enclosure.
 












I'll put together a build log with pictures and save it as a PDF. I can then email it to anyone interested.
 






I'll put together a build log with pictures and save it as a PDF. I can then email it to anyone interested.

That's a lot of work, just make a post and put the images up on imgur or one of the many other photohosting websites.
 



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I added a second PWE-S8 yesterday, under the passenger seat and I am very happy with the results. The combined output from the two units exceed expectations.

It's been many years since I worked in a custom car audio shop, but this has more output than the original JL stealthbox that was for the late 90s, early 2000s.

I turned the gain down on the first and back the X-over down a bit as well to try and tame the upper range while increasing the lower range. I can recommend this as a very solid upgrade over stock without sacrificing an inch of cargo space.
 






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