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Explorer Audio upgrade(s)


champco

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I'm trying to tap into the front speakers with a line out converter for an amp, but everything I can find shows the front speakers as being white... white/striped wires. The harness I have coming out of the head unit doesn't seem to have the same colored wires, so I'm not sure which ones to tap into without having to open the doors to check the speakers. I have a 2013 Ex with the Sony premium sound.
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http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/index.php?threads/explorer-audio-upgrade-s.348974/
 


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Nando135

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peterk9

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Is there any way to increase the sound from the 2016 Explorer Sport stock 12 speaker 390 watt sound system.
I am thinking an aftermarket subwoofer. Any suggestions.
I do like the Kicker Hideaway 8" Subwoofer.
Looking for fit and placement suggestions.
Welcome to the Forum.:wave:
FYI, all members are urged to use the 'Search' feature (upper right) before starting a new thread to check for existing ones on their subject. In this case, there are several on 'Audio Upgrades'. Yours has been merged with one of them. You can find others by searching on that phrase in the 'Modified' sub forum. Good luck with your project.

Peter
 




wharriso

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The front/dash is a separate channel per some specs I found here. It is a 5 channel, 30w each system.
I also do not hear any distortion out of it either.
The OEM front door spkrs had the bass engineered in. The second row were certainly tuned with less Bass.
The Dash speaker must be a 30+ watt speaker. I am curious what I will eventually find. Since everything sounds ok and there are no problems I will not dig into it. No need.

Replacing the front doors with a good component system, full range/equalizer/tweeter system will amaze. I spent about $100 on discontinued new high quality. I went with round only because I have had good success in the past with good quality round speakers.
In the second row it needs a good quality 2way at least. I went with the three way because they were available. Again around $100. They did not sound good at volume till I unplugged the rear.
I would not be surprised if the radio speaker channels senses impedance and makes adjustments because It took a few days for my new speakers to really impress me with what was missing. Maybe my ears tuning into them.

Best advice. Keep it simple.
Thanks for all the info Champco. The 4 speaker plus sub woofer system I traded in (still in my sig) sounded wayyyy better that this Sony 12 speaker system. I am used to better bass and treble response in the car. I just ordered Infinity Primus PR6500cs (single speaker plus tweeter and crossover) for the front doors and Infinity Reference REF-5022cfx 2-way speakers for the rear doors. I didn't give these parts too much thought besides the brand because Crutchfield says they fit and they supply mounting hardware. I do not plan to touch the Ford subwoofer because I suspect it will sound better if all that bass is not going through the front doors. Have you found a need to modify the center dash or 3rd row speakers to get a significant improvement in sound?
 




wharriso

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Sorry for this stupid question but I only see 3 bolts in the front door panels of my 2016 Explorer. Every video I see has 2 additional bolts behind the big door handle but those do not seem to exist on mine. Does anyone know if bolts are hiding behind some trim panel? I would hate to break something trying to force this thing open.

Thanks
 
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GeoGeek

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Sorry for this stupid question but I only see 3 bolts in the front door panels of my 2016 Explorer. Every video I see has 2 additional bolts behind the big door handle but those do not seem to exist on mine. Does anyone know if bolts are hiding behind some trim panel? I would hate to break something trying to force this thing open.

Thanks
One bolt is behind the plastic trim piece behind the door opener handle...you have to pry it out to expose the 10mm bolt behind it.
The other is behind the handle you use to pull the door shut. To expose it, you need to remove the plastic piece that lines that opening, which is also forms the panel with the window opener switches.
It is held in with pressure clips and is difficult to pop out, but it is possible.
That will expose the other 10mm bolt.
 




wharriso

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One bolt is behind the plastic trim piece behind the door opener handle...you have to pry it out to expose the 10mm bolt behind it.
The other is behind the handle you use to pull the door shut. To expose it, you need to remove the plastic piece that lines that opening, which is also forms the panel with the window opener switches.
It is held in with pressure clips and is difficult to pop out, but it is possible.
That will expose the other 10mm bolt.
Thank you so much! I just went outside to try that since there had to be some reinforcement behind that door handle. I thought I was going to break it but now I know how to remove it. Thanks again.
 




champco

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Thanks for all the info Champco. The 4 speaker plus sub woofer system I traded in (still in my sig) sounded wayyyy better that this Sony 12 speaker system. I am used to better bass and treble response in the car. I just ordered Infinity Primus PR6500cs (single speaker plus tweeter and crossover) for the front doors and Infinity Reference REF-5022cfx 2-way speakers for the rear doors. I didn't give these parts too much thought besides the brand because Crutchfield says they fit and they supply mounting hardware. I do not plan to touch the Ford subwoofer because I suspect it will sound better if all that bass is not going through the front doors. Have you found a need to modify the center dash or 3rd row speakers to get a significant improvement in sound?
Ok so you are replacing speakers that came in a Sony System??? Please post pictures of the original speakers they are supplying with it. I suspect you will have more power to the speakers then the 9 speaker system. The Sony headend is different. Good luck with it all. Am looking forward for a report.
 




champco

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Yeah, thats why I'm so stumped. The box I created is solid 3/4 MDF and is 0.36 cubic ft. Air tight, should be fine. The reviews for both the amp and the sub were great as well so I'm not entirely sure why I'm so underwhelmed
Typically sterio systems provided bass on the left channel for years. Do not know if that is still the case. I learned this when I had to replace the foams on only one speaker a couple times. The tech said to swap the speakers from time to time. This is over many years of daily use. After swapping the speakers the one that was always on the right... now on the left the foam blew apart right away. lesson learned
I would grab bass from the left side just in case..... Good luck.
 




wharriso

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Ok so you are replacing speakers that came in a Sony System??? Please post pictures of the original speakers they are supplying with it. I suspect you will have more power to the speakers then the 9 speaker system. The Sony headend is different. Good luck with it all. Am looking forward for a report.
I should be able to work on this tomorrow (Saturday). Based on the speakers in your photos, I assumed I was replacing 4 ohm speakers with the new Infinity 3 ohm speakers, but maybe not since you have the 9 speaker system. The Crutchfield guy says the lower ohms will produce a louder sound. I will probably just do the front doors tomorrow (weather permitting). I will take pics of the old ones tomorrow.
 




champco

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I should be able to work on this tomorrow (Saturday). Based on the speakers in your photos, I assumed I was replacing 4 ohm speakers with the new Infinity 3 ohm speakers, but maybe not since you have the 9 speaker system. The Crutchfield guy says the lower ohms will produce a louder sound. I will probably just do the front doors tomorrow (weather permitting). I will take pics of the old ones tomorrow.
Take a ohm meter to the OEM speakers and the replacement speakers thru them as installed.
The front door panals came off much easier then the rear. There is one metal clip and 6 plastic clips. being as the speaker is in the door and the tweeter in the panel putting it all back together takes some planning. The last connection for me was the network feed to the supply/source. You can see the wiring in a picture. While the door was pseudo connected to the door handle cable and other wiring connectors back in place I propped the panel on my stool and leaned in to make the final speaker connection. Then rehung the panel. It pushed back together real easy. Test it all before resealing all the clips. I would not worry too much about matching speaker impedance within a few ohms. Putting power to perfectly matched stuff still cooks things. The big problems happen to power amps that run away because the resistance (ohms) being low and someone gives it 100% for too long. How long that is depends on the power applied. It's work for you so after installing these you won't blow em.
 
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wharriso

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Take a ohm meter to the OEM speakers and the replacement speakers thru them as installed.
The front door panals came off much easier then the rear. There is one metal clip and 6 plastic clips. being as the speaker is in the door and the tweeter in the panel putting it all back together takes some planning. The last connection for me was the network feed to the supply/source. You can see the wiring in a picture. While the door was pseudo connected to the door handle cable and other wiring connectors back in place I propped the panel on my stool and leaned in to make the final speaker connection. Then rehung the panel. It pushed back together real easy. Test it all before resealing all the clips. I would not worry too much about matching speaker impedance within a few ohms. Putting power to perfectly matched stuff still cooks things. The big problems happen to power amps that run away because the resistance (ohms) being low and someone gives it 100% for too long. How long that is depends on the power applied. It's work for you so after installing these you won't blow em.
I pulled off a lot of door panels in the past but I never saw anything like this before. The plastic rivets at the corner of each front door simply will not pull loose. Every tool I use seems to just slip off. If I pull any harder I will probably have to buy a new panel. I am done for now. I'll try a hacksaw blade tomorrow.
 




champco

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I pulled off a lot of door panels in the past but I never saw anything like this before. The plastic rivets at the corner of each front door simply will not pull loose. Every tool I use seems to just slip off. If I pull any harder I will probably have to buy a new panel. I am done for now. I'll try a hacksaw blade tomorrow.
I did not want to say anything because i do not know you or your abilities/experience. BUT I did my back doors first because I could still use the vehicle with them shut.
No saws!!! I used a typical snap-on clip puller to POP the clips. It's tough but they will pop. Just get under them..
I started with the bottom and worked up both sides going back and forth. The steel clip is top front. All these clips are deep into the panel. Not on the edges.Assuming the 2016 was not changed much from my 2013. To protect the paint as I pried the clips I put a stainless steel flat blade against the paint beneath the pry tool. Getting the panel off not breaking anything is the goal.
 




champco

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If I pull any harder I will probably have to buy a new panel. I am done for now.
I don't think I just pulled any of mine apart by pulling on the panel. I attacked each clip. I prodded them with the thin blade and once found got the tool under them. Screwdriver is inadequate. Get the panel pullers from any auto parts store or maybe Norther Hydraulics. My tool is stout but way too short for this panel. I had to really push it to get under the clips. Some clips stayed in the door. I put them back in the panel to reinstall em. After removing them from their holes.
 




wharriso

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I don't think I just pulled any of mine apart by pulling on the panel. I attacked each clip. I prodded them with the thin blade and once found got the tool under them. Screwdriver is inadequate. Get the panel pullers from any auto parts store or maybe Norther Hydraulics. My tool is stout but way too short for this panel. I had to really push it to get under the clips. Some clips stayed in the door. I put them back in the panel to reinstall em. After removing them from their holes.
I didn't just pull, I used trim removal tools. I have the one metal one that I used for years but I got a new set of plastic (or whatever that material is) from Harbor Freight so I don't scratch anything. I guess I am being overly cautious since this car is still under warranty but I think I know what to do now. The plastic clips are sitting in a slot instead of a hole as they usually are so I should be able to get a tool under it and whack it then pull. At any rate I ordered a bunch of them in case I break a few.
 




wharriso

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I don't think I just pulled any of mine apart by pulling on the panel. I attacked each clip. I prodded them with the thin blade and once found got the tool under them. Screwdriver is inadequate. Get the panel pullers from any auto parts store or maybe Norther Hydraulics. My tool is stout but way too short for this panel. I had to really push it to get under the clips. Some clips stayed in the door. I put them back in the panel to reinstall em. After removing them from their holes.
Okay, I got the panel off on the passenger side. I had to use the metal tool and it mangled one of the clips and did leave some scratches and but they were behind the panel. When I removed the panel I saw 2 wires going to the tweeter and 2 to the woofer. They were both wrapped up pretty tight into the wiring harness that went inside the door. I could not find my DVM I just had a analog multi-meter which can only measure ohms in 1k increments.

So I figured I would back off until I find or buy a digital voltmeter, but I have a question: Did you just use the woofer input to feed the crossover and ignore the old tweeter wires?





The first photo shows the tweeter. I pulled off an orange sticky that covered the part number and the label came off with the sticky. Just looking at the tweeter I am assuming it has a built in high-pass filter since that only requires a resistor and a capacitor. But the wires going into the tweeter are not the same colors as the wires going into the woofer.
 
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champco

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That being a Sony system I would expect different wiring. The 9 speaker system has 5 channels coming from it. 1 to center speaker, one to each door. There is someone here who posted wiring for the Sony system. Refer to it for the tweeter wires. The tweeter being filtered right there tells me signal must be full to it.
What do you have for a filter on the new speakers?? Notice on mine from the pictures is pretty robust. Lets find the wiring for your radio. See what you have and decide what to do with the new stuff.
Went digging. Post #236 has some diagrams that may be helpful. Not sure. Post #296 address the Sony system. Tweeter source still alludes. Are you certain the wires are different then the door speakers?? Ohm out the wires to tweeter. Then either disconnect or connect the door speakers and look for a change.
 
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wharriso

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Thanks for finding that diagram but I do not think it quite matches up. My right front tweeter has violet/orange-yellow/orange wires (even though it doesn't show very well in this picture). But the most interesting thing about the diagram is that all speakers appear to be originating directly from the audio module. My new speakers consist of a woofer, a tweeter and a crossover expecting a single 2 wire input. I did not think to photograph the woofer wires although they are blurry in the background. I will ask the Crutchfield guys in the morning if it is better to use the woofer wires or the tweeter wires for the crossover input.

 




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