Explorer Audio upgrade(s)

[wharriso]

Thanks for replying. I ended up getting the Pioneer sub to try out. I want to use the harness that is attached to the current factory sub. Just don't want to screw it up!

But maybe I can't? 4 wires from the factory sub and 4 spots on the new sub.

Yes, setup should be easy. It is a dual subwoofer so 2 wires for each channel, as long as you don't get the wires mixed up.

 

[MM07]

Thanks again. I'll let you know how it goes.

 

[El_Chapo]

Anyone own a non sony system and has done a successful install?

i am using the lcq-1 and running off main leads from behind the head unit left and right front, left and right rear but something just isnt right.

are these signals all crossed over somewhere? or can i use front or rears to get a full range signal?
have been searching for weeks and can not find any info on this. as in if there is a full range signal i can use for input signal...

 

[DMG632]

Anyone own a non sony system and has done a successful install?

i am using the lcq-1 and running off main leads from behind the head unit left and right front, left and right rear but something just isnt right.

are these signals all crossed over somewhere? or can i use front or rears to get a full range signal?
have been searching for weeks and can not find any info on this. as in if there is a full range signal i can use for input signal...

You can get "full range" output from the front speakers & easiest.

You might explain what isn't right with your install. I have used the Audio Control LCQ-1 on other car installs and have had problems with a high floor noise, even with the gains turned way down.

 

[El_Chapo]

You can get "full range" output from the front speakers & easiest.

You might explain what isn't right with your install. I have used the Audio Control LCQ-1 on other car installs and have had problems with a high floor noise, even with the gains turned way down.

As of now i have the front right and left /rear right and left leads from right behind the radio into the respected inputs on the lcq-1. I am getting hiss from the tweeters however im getting distortion/clipping in the rear. The jumpers are set to sum the front sig to the rear.

Havent even got to put my sub in due to constant issues with the lcq

 

[DMG632]

El_Chapo; the first thing to check is your ground, with a poor ground you can get a lot of hiss. You might also look at the output levels of the LCQ-1 if these are set to high it can cause the problems you are experiencing. When you are setting the equalizer pots I like to "cut" the frequencies not increase them. What amps are you using, these might be causing the hiss and distortion.

I know many people use these and are happy with them, but I know for me I could never get rid of the hiss introduced to the system from the LCQ-1. The things you are experiencing is what caused me to go with the Audison Bit Ten and never look back.

 

[El_Chapo]

Can anyone tell me if the base model sound system in a 2019 XLT 201a with sync 3 8" screen nav ect. Has crossed over singals or are all 7 speakers full range?

 

[DMG632]

Can anyone tell me if the base model sound system in a 2019 XLT 201a with sync 3 8" screen nav ect. Has crossed over singals or are all 7 speakers full range?

The easiest way to find out is look on your "door card", if you have a separate tweeter (up by the sail panel) you will have your answer.

 

[El_Chapo]

The easiest way to find out is look on your "door card", if you have a separate tweeter (up by the sail panel) you will have your answer.

I do have a tweeter in the door itself.

 

[El_Chapo]

im looking in the owners manual at the interior fuse box slot 28 & 30 are sony 10 channel amplifier and sony 14 channel amplifier i have fuses in both from the factory.

what and where would this be going to?

 

[Tux47]

Hello everyone, I'm looking to upgrade my Sony system in my 2014 Explorer Sport.

I got a quote for parts for the install just wanted to get everyone's input about it to see if I need to add any other equipment to max out the audio ability. I'm also looking to add a 10"sub in the factory sub box in the future so keep that in mind.

PAC Amp Pro Amplifier Interface with factory adapters for speakers outputs off the factory amp plugs, post side.

Front Speakers- Infinity Reference REF-9630CX 6" x 9" Component System

Rear Speakers-Infinity Reference REF-6532EX 6-1/2" 2-way Speakers

Door Speaker Amp- JBL Stage A6004 60W x 4 Car Amplifier

Dynomate each door is also in the cards

I'm looking to get maximum ability out of these speakers so I'm hoping this amp will service. Thought about doing a 5 channel so I can add the sub later without having to install another amp but wasnt sure how well that would work out. My main hope is to eliminate all the factory amp roll off with this pac system. The infinity components have their own adjustments for fine tuning which will help the fine tuning process. So my biggest question, do I really need any other audio equipment to get better bass quality out of the door speakers and to eliminate treble distortion at full volume. I just want to do this all right the first time.

 

[DMG632]

Hello everyone, I'm looking to upgrade my Sony system in my 2014 Explorer Sport.

.

FRONT SPEAKERS: Have you thought about doing component speakers with a separate tweeter (to replace the stock one)? The separate tweeter helps raise the sound stage even using the stock location.

REAR SPEAKERS: If I was to do my system again I would forget the rear speakers altogther, just to help with imaging.

AMP: Since you plan on adding 10" sub you may want to go with the 5 channel amp like a JL Audio

ODDS & ENDS: Amp wiring kit with a good fuse, new speaker wire.
DOORS: When you open the door cads you will see several large holes, get some ABF to close up the holes and the use more Dynomate over the ABS

Just my thoughts

 

[Tux47]

Well after doing more research I think my whole game plan has changed. I'm looking at the Audio Control D-6.1200 DSP/Amp combo to run the front door speakers with active crossover to the tweeters. Then using the other channel for a sub that will fit in the original sony sub box. The front doors I plan on using material to deaden the vibrations down as well, just haven't decided what brand of speakers to use in the front yet. Was looking at Hertz or JL C7s. Ill end up upgrading the rear doors at some other point, I really prefer the sound to come from behind me somewhat and wrap around to the front if that makes sense. This went from $1000 to much more real quick, but id rather do it right the first time then have to do it all over again.

 

[DMG632]

This went from $1000 to much more real quick, but id rather do it right the first time then have to do it all over again.

You are 100% correct.... it adds up very quickly! Doing it right the first time will save you money in the long run.

 

[El_Chapo]

Still fighting this install. So looking at the wiring diagram it seems that there are stereo L and right pos and neg that go into the acm then split into speaker leads. Im currently tapped into the leads coming from the radio (ACM) and getting high voltage out before even going into my LCQ-1. I should mention i have the sync 3 with the 8" screen w/nav. Any help is GREATLY appreciated.

 

[El_Chapo]

So in conclusion. LCQ-1 is GARBAGE.
I have decided to move on to something better im looking into the DSR1 or the JBL fix 86.
Anyone have any luck or experience with them?

 

[Tony407]

Still fighting this install. So looking at the wiring diagram it seems that there are stereo L and right pos and neg that go into the acm then split into speaker leads. Im currently tapped into the leads coming from the radio (ACM) and getting high voltage out before even going into my LCQ-1. I should mention i have the sync 3 with the 8" screen w/nav. Any help is GREATLY appreciated.

So in conclusion. LCQ-1 is GARBAGE.
I have decided to move on to something better im looking into the DSR1 or the JBL fix 86.
Anyone have any luck or experience with them?

I'm sure there's context to this somewhere in the last 30 pages of this thread, so excuse me if I don't know all the relevant information.

Why are you saying the LCQ-1 is garbage? Is it because it's not the right product for your needs? Or is it defective? I've never purchased an Audio Control product that didn't do what it says it's supposed to do (although some do it better than others).

Are you tapping into the signals BEFORE the OEM amp? If so, why?

Tony

 

[El_Chapo]

I'm sure there's context to this somewhere in the last 30 pages of this thread, so excuse me if I don't know all the relevant information.

Why are you saying the LCQ-1 is garbage? Is it because it's not the right product for your needs? Or is it defective? I've never purchased an Audio Control product that didn't do what it says it's supposed to do (although some do it better than others).

Are you tapping into the signals BEFORE the OEM amp? If so, why?

Tony

i have the non sony system. im runnin 9 wire direct from the back of the H/U to the lcq-1.
i paid a guy who deals with audio control $160 to tune it and still sounds like trash and blew 4 of my sub amp fuses.

 

[Tony407]

i have the non sony system. im runnin 9 wire direct from the back of the H/U to the lcq-1.
i paid a guy who deals with audio control $160 to tune it and still sounds like trash and blew 4 of my sub amp fuses.

I suspect the money you paid to a guy wasn't properly spent unfortunately. I've been buying/DIY car audio gear since the mid 80's and I've owned multiple Audio Control products with mostly satisfactory results. The biggest complaint I have about Audio Control is their DSP/tuning software isn't the most user-friendly [read: oftentimes infuriating]. I'm sure I'm probably forgetting something over the years, but I honestly can't remember a single piece of any audio equipment going bad that wasn't due to my own operational/installation error (I think I had old-school ZX Phoenix Gold amp lose connection to the RCA inputs but that's about it).

I'm having difficulties imagining why a DSP would cause your sub amp fuses to blow though. I'd ask your guy to explain that one to you. Same thing about it sounding like trash.

Have you called Audio Control? EVERY time I've ever called for tech support an actual English-speaking person from Washington State answered and giving me PHENOMENAL and FRIENDLY assistance!! I'm not sure how much they can help you if you're not well-educated on car audio, but maybe you could have you & your guy call in together at the same time? Having a crappy sounding car stereo system sucks, hope you get it taken care of man!! - Tony

 

[El_Chapo]

I suspect the money you paid to a guy wasn't properly spent unfortunately. I've been buying/DIY car audio gear since the mid 80's and I've owned multiple Audio Control products with mostly satisfactory results. The biggest complaint I have about Audio Control is their DSP/tuning software isn't the most user-friendly [read: oftentimes infuriating]. I'm sure I'm probably forgetting something over the years, but I honestly can't remember a single piece of any audio equipment going bad that wasn't due to my own operational/installation error (I think I had old-school ZX Phoenix Gold amp lose connection to the RCA inputs but that's about it).

I'm having difficulties imagining why a DSP would cause your sub amp fuses to blow though. I'd ask your guy to explain that one to you. Same thing about it sounding like trash.

Have you called Audio Control? EVERY time I've ever called for tech support an actual English-speaking person from Washington State answered and giving me PHENOMENAL and FRIENDLY assistance!! I'm not sure how much they can help you if you're not well-educated on car audio, but maybe you could have you & your guy call in together at the same time? Having a crappy sounding car stereo system sucks, hope you get it taken care of man!! - Tony

i have contacted them and followed instructions but could never get it quite right. using the max light on the LCQ-1 then sending RCA's to my amps blew my first 2 high(s) amps. so i wired everything exceptionally well and left the tuning to the "pros" and this was his tuning on my 2019 explorer

http://imgur.com/a/PUNURfo

doesnt seem right nor does it sound right. so im thinking i may have better luck with a DSR1 or Fix 86.
keep in mind i have been fighting this install since October of 2019.