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Explorer Audio upgrade(s)

Can anyone tell me if the base model sound system in a 2019 XLT 201a with sync 3 8" screen nav ect. Has crossed over singals or are all 7 speakers full range?
The easiest way to find out is look on your "door card", if you have a separate tweeter (up by the sail panel) you will have your answer.
 



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The easiest way to find out is look on your "door card", if you have a separate tweeter (up by the sail panel) you will have your answer.

I do have a tweeter in the door itself.
 






im looking in the owners manual at the interior fuse box slot 28 & 30 are sony 10 channel amplifier and sony 14 channel amplifier i have fuses in both from the factory.

what and where would this be going to?
 






Hello everyone, I'm looking to upgrade my Sony system in my 2014 Explorer Sport.

I got a quote for parts for the install just wanted to get everyone's input about it to see if I need to add any other equipment to max out the audio ability. I'm also looking to add a 10"sub in the factory sub box in the future so keep that in mind.

PAC Amp Pro Amplifier Interface with factory adapters for speakers outputs off the factory amp plugs, post side.

Front Speakers- Infinity Reference REF-9630CX 6" x 9" Component System

Rear Speakers-Infinity Reference REF-6532EX 6-1/2" 2-way Speakers

Door Speaker Amp- JBL Stage A6004 60W x 4 Car Amplifier

Dynomate each door is also in the cards

I'm looking to get maximum ability out of these speakers so I'm hoping this amp will service. Thought about doing a 5 channel so I can add the sub later without having to install another amp but wasnt sure how well that would work out. My main hope is to eliminate all the factory amp roll off with this pac system. The infinity components have their own adjustments for fine tuning which will help the fine tuning process. So my biggest question, do I really need any other audio equipment to get better bass quality out of the door speakers and to eliminate treble distortion at full volume. I just want to do this all right the first time.
 






Hello everyone, I'm looking to upgrade my Sony system in my 2014 Explorer Sport.

.

FRONT SPEAKERS: Have you thought about doing component speakers with a separate tweeter (to replace the stock one)? The separate tweeter helps raise the sound stage even using the stock location.

REAR SPEAKERS: If I was to do my system again I would forget the rear speakers altogther, just to help with imaging.

AMP: Since you plan on adding 10" sub you may want to go with the 5 channel amp like a JL Audio

ODDS & ENDS: Amp wiring kit with a good fuse, new speaker wire.
DOORS: When you open the door cads you will see several large holes, get some ABF to close up the holes and the use more Dynomate over the ABS

Just my thoughts
 






Well after doing more research I think my whole game plan has changed. I'm looking at the Audio Control D-6.1200 DSP/Amp combo to run the front door speakers with active crossover to the tweeters. Then using the other channel for a sub that will fit in the original sony sub box. The front doors I plan on using material to deaden the vibrations down as well, just haven't decided what brand of speakers to use in the front yet. Was looking at Hertz or JL C7s. Ill end up upgrading the rear doors at some other point, I really prefer the sound to come from behind me somewhat and wrap around to the front if that makes sense. This went from $1000 to much more real quick, but id rather do it right the first time then have to do it all over again.
 






This went from $1000 to much more real quick, but id rather do it right the first time then have to do it all over again.

You are 100% correct.... it adds up very quickly! Doing it right the first time will save you money in the long run.
 






Still fighting this install. So looking at the wiring diagram it seems that there are stereo L and right pos and neg that go into the acm then split into speaker leads. Im currently tapped into the leads coming from the radio (ACM) and getting high voltage out before even going into my LCQ-1. I should mention i have the sync 3 with the 8" screen w/nav. Any help is GREATLY appreciated.
 






So in conclusion. LCQ-1 is GARBAGE.
I have decided to move on to something better im looking into the DSR1 or the JBL fix 86.
Anyone have any luck or experience with them?
 






Still fighting this install. So looking at the wiring diagram it seems that there are stereo L and right pos and neg that go into the acm then split into speaker leads. Im currently tapped into the leads coming from the radio (ACM) and getting high voltage out before even going into my LCQ-1. I should mention i have the sync 3 with the 8" screen w/nav. Any help is GREATLY appreciated.
So in conclusion. LCQ-1 is GARBAGE.
I have decided to move on to something better im looking into the DSR1 or the JBL fix 86.
Anyone have any luck or experience with them?

I'm sure there's context to this somewhere in the last 30 pages of this thread, so excuse me if I don't know all the relevant information.

Why are you saying the LCQ-1 is garbage? Is it because it's not the right product for your needs? Or is it defective? I've never purchased an Audio Control product that didn't do what it says it's supposed to do (although some do it better than others).

Are you tapping into the signals BEFORE the OEM amp? If so, why?

Tony
 






I'm sure there's context to this somewhere in the last 30 pages of this thread, so excuse me if I don't know all the relevant information.

Why are you saying the LCQ-1 is garbage? Is it because it's not the right product for your needs? Or is it defective? I've never purchased an Audio Control product that didn't do what it says it's supposed to do (although some do it better than others).

Are you tapping into the signals BEFORE the OEM amp? If so, why?

Tony

i have the non sony system. im runnin 9 wire direct from the back of the H/U to the lcq-1.
i paid a guy who deals with audio control $160 to tune it and still sounds like trash and blew 4 of my sub amp fuses.
 






i have the non sony system. im runnin 9 wire direct from the back of the H/U to the lcq-1.
i paid a guy who deals with audio control $160 to tune it and still sounds like trash and blew 4 of my sub amp fuses.

I suspect the money you paid to a guy wasn't properly spent unfortunately. I've been buying/DIY car audio gear since the mid 80's and I've owned multiple Audio Control products with mostly satisfactory results. The biggest complaint I have about Audio Control is their DSP/tuning software isn't the most user-friendly [read: oftentimes infuriating]. I'm sure I'm probably forgetting something over the years, but I honestly can't remember a single piece of any audio equipment going bad that wasn't due to my own operational/installation error (I think I had old-school ZX Phoenix Gold amp lose connection to the RCA inputs but that's about it).

I'm having difficulties imagining why a DSP would cause your sub amp fuses to blow though. I'd ask your guy to explain that one to you. Same thing about it sounding like trash.

Have you called Audio Control? EVERY time I've ever called for tech support an actual English-speaking person from Washington State answered and giving me PHENOMENAL and FRIENDLY assistance!! I'm not sure how much they can help you if you're not well-educated on car audio, but maybe you could have you & your guy call in together at the same time? Having a crappy sounding car stereo system sucks, hope you get it taken care of man!! - Tony
 






I suspect the money you paid to a guy wasn't properly spent unfortunately. I've been buying/DIY car audio gear since the mid 80's and I've owned multiple Audio Control products with mostly satisfactory results. The biggest complaint I have about Audio Control is their DSP/tuning software isn't the most user-friendly [read: oftentimes infuriating]. I'm sure I'm probably forgetting something over the years, but I honestly can't remember a single piece of any audio equipment going bad that wasn't due to my own operational/installation error (I think I had old-school ZX Phoenix Gold amp lose connection to the RCA inputs but that's about it).

I'm having difficulties imagining why a DSP would cause your sub amp fuses to blow though. I'd ask your guy to explain that one to you. Same thing about it sounding like trash.

Have you called Audio Control? EVERY time I've ever called for tech support an actual English-speaking person from Washington State answered and giving me PHENOMENAL and FRIENDLY assistance!! I'm not sure how much they can help you if you're not well-educated on car audio, but maybe you could have you & your guy call in together at the same time? Having a crappy sounding car stereo system sucks, hope you get it taken care of man!! - Tony

i have contacted them and followed instructions but could never get it quite right. using the max light on the LCQ-1 then sending RCA's to my amps blew my first 2 high(s) amps. so i wired everything exceptionally well and left the tuning to the "pros" and this was his tuning on my 2019 explorer doesnt seem right nor does it sound right. so im thinking i may have better luck with a DSR1 or Fix 86.
keep in mind i have been fighting this install since October of 2019.
 






i have contacted them and followed instructions but could never get it quite right. using the max light on the LCQ-1 then sending RCA's to my amps blew my first 2 high(s) amps. so i wired everything exceptionally well and left the tuning to the "pros" and this was his tuning on my 2019 explorer doesnt seem right nor does it sound right. so im thinking i may have better luck with a DSR1 or Fix 86.
keep in mind i have been fighting this install since October of 2019.


Well shoot. That sucks. Good luck!! Wish I could be more help. - Tony
 












Wanted to share my newly installed system. Goal was to have everything hidden, retain all OEM functionality, and provide excellent SQ. I started with a 2017 Platinum with Sony 12 Speaker Audio.

PAC AmpPro
Audison Bit Nove
JL Audio XD600/6v2
Hertz Mille Legend MLK 165.3 components for the fronts
Hertz Mille Pro MPX 165.3 coaxials for the rears
JL Audio XD600/1v2
JL Audio Stealthbox with 10W3v3

The PAC AmpPro is a fantastic product and really the only way to go in these cars. There is no practical way to get better flat signal than using one of these. De-EQ'ing the high level signals coming from the Sony amp is a crapshoot. This is the only way of ensuring you're getting a true flat signal.

The Bit Nove has been awesome so far, although we're still trying to hunt down some hiss and whine. I'm having the shop try out grounding straight to the battery to see fi that helps, but with the CV19 foolishness going on they're having trouble keeping installers in the bay.

I can't say enough about the Mille Legends. I've tried them with no low pass filter and the sub disabled and I can confidently say that you wouldn't be disappointed if you were in a position to not want a subwoofer for whatever reason.

Speaking of subwoofers, JL Audio did a hell of a job with this generation's Stealthbox. The key is going to making sure that it is SECURELY mounted. And you're going to have to sound deaden both the inside of the quarter panel and the backside of the interior trim panel. It will buzz at the top near the rear window so apply material every square inch all the way up the side. My only gripe with the Stealthbox is that the OEM black that it comes in is actually more of a dark grey and doesn't match the interior carpet and trim 100% but it doesn't look terribly out of place.

The XD600/6v2 running the fronts and rears is installed under the driver seat. The Audison and the XD600/1v2 are installed side by side under the front passenger seat. There's plenty of room down there for the gear and all the wiring. To protect them from wet shoes, I have Husky Liners all the way around and they provide some protection from slinging moisture without compromising airflow. I feel it's perfectly adequate given that I rarely experience snow or slush that would cause a problem. All of the gear panels are accessible my moving the seat back or front and the USB port for the Audison is easily reached from behind the front passenger seat.

We're still working on the finishing touches for tuning. The biggest thing I have to get done is disconnecting the center channel. It totally ruins the sound imaging. You basically can't TA the Audison until you do this. What you'll have to know going in is that if you disconnect all the front speakers (L,R, and C), you need to disconnect the battery, let the CANBUS die, and do a reset procedure on the PAC. PAC assures me once you do that the PAC will handle all chimes, parking detectors, and SYNC audio (BT, NAV). I haven't tried it yet so I'll post back if this doesn't work. If you don't disconnect the center channel, phone calls will only come through the center channel and your audio will kind of dance around while the parking sensors are going as the center channel mutes and unmutes at a different time than the aftermarket amps.

I also had them disconnect the third row speakers, but be advised when you do this, you won't get a chime when you close the hatch. I'm going to have the reconnect these speakers because they aren't affected the front seat audio that much and I want the chime.

If anybody wants pictures, I can upload some.
 






Pics are always welcome.
 






I suspect the money you paid to a guy wasn't properly spent unfortunately. I've been buying/DIY car audio gear since the mid 80's and I've owned multiple Audio Control products with mostly satisfactory results. The biggest complaint I have about Audio Control is their DSP/tuning software isn't the most user-friendly [read: oftentimes infuriating]. I'm sure I'm probably forgetting something over the years, but I honestly can't remember a single piece of any audio equipment going bad that wasn't due to my own operational/installation error (I think I had old-school ZX Phoenix Gold amp lose connection to the RCA inputs but that's about it).

I'm having difficulties imagining why a DSP would cause your sub amp fuses to blow though. I'd ask your guy to explain that one to you. Same thing about it sounding like trash.

Have you called Audio Control? EVERY time I've ever called for tech support an actual English-speaking person from Washington State answered and giving me PHENOMENAL and FRIENDLY assistance!! I'm not sure how much they can help you if you're not well-educated on car audio, but maybe you could have you & your guy call in together at the same time? Having a crappy sounding car stereo system sucks, hope you get it taken care of man!! - Tony

First the LCQ-1 is not a DSP, it is a line out converter with EQ built-in. I have tried to use the LCQ-1 (still have one on the shelf somewhere) and it has always put noise in my system. That maybe why he's saying it's junk.
 






PULLED THE TRIGGER ON THE DSR1 GOT IT FOR $202 AT BEST BUY
I have been running a DSR1 for about a year and a half now. The only problem I found was occasionally I have no sound. I have to turn off the car for a little while then turn it back on for the sound to return. It happened 4 or 5 times since I had it, I have no idea why or how to repeat the problem.
 



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.





Wanted to share my newly installed system. Goal was to have everything hidden, retain all OEM functionality, and provide excellent SQ. I started with a 2017 Platinum with Sony 12 Speaker Audio.

PAC AmpPro
Audison Bit Nove
JL Audio XD600/6v2
Hertz Mille Legend MLK 165.3 components for the fronts
Hertz Mille Pro MPX 165.3 coaxials for the rears
JL Audio XD600/1v2
JL Audio Stealthbox with 10W3v3

The PAC AmpPro is a fantastic product and really the only way to go in these cars. There is no practical way to get better flat signal than using one of these. De-EQ'ing the high level signals coming from the Sony amp is a crapshoot. This is the only way of ensuring you're getting a true flat signal.

The Bit Nove has been awesome so far, although we're still trying to hunt down some hiss and whine. I'm having the shop try out grounding straight to the battery to see fi that helps, but with the CV19 foolishness going on they're having trouble keeping installers in the bay.

I can't say enough about the Mille Legends. I've tried them with no low pass filter and the sub disabled and I can confidently say that you wouldn't be disappointed if you were in a position to not want a subwoofer for whatever reason.

Speaking of subwoofers, JL Audio did a hell of a job with this generation's Stealthbox. The key is going to making sure that it is SECURELY mounted. And you're going to have to sound deaden both the inside of the quarter panel and the backside of the interior trim panel. It will buzz at the top near the rear window so apply material every square inch all the way up the side. My only gripe with the Stealthbox is that the OEM black that it comes in is actually more of a dark grey and doesn't match the interior carpet and trim 100% but it doesn't look terribly out of place.

The XD600/6v2 running the fronts and rears is installed under the driver seat. The Audison and the XD600/1v2 are installed side by side under the front passenger seat. There's plenty of room down there for the gear and all the wiring. To protect them from wet shoes, I have Husky Liners all the way around and they provide some protection from slinging moisture without compromising airflow. I feel it's perfectly adequate given that I rarely experience snow or slush that would cause a problem. All of the gear panels are accessible my moving the seat back or front and the USB port for the Audison is easily reached from behind the front passenger seat.

We're still working on the finishing touches for tuning. The biggest thing I have to get done is disconnecting the center channel. It totally ruins the sound imaging. You basically can't TA the Audison until you do this. What you'll have to know going in is that if you disconnect all the front speakers (L,R, and C), you need to disconnect the battery, let the CANBUS die, and do a reset procedure on the PAC. PAC assures me once you do that the PAC will handle all chimes, parking detectors, and SYNC audio (BT, NAV). I haven't tried it yet so I'll post back if this doesn't work. If you don't disconnect the center channel, phone calls will only come through the center channel and your audio will kind of dance around while the parking sensors are going as the center channel mutes and unmutes at a different time than the aftermarket amps.

I also had them disconnect the third row speakers, but be advised when you do this, you won't get a chime when you close the hatch. I'm going to have the reconnect these speakers because they aren't affected the front seat audio that much and I want the chime.

If anybody wants pictures, I can upload some.
Sounds like you did a great job. Pics or it didn't happen!!!
 






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