Explorer Audio upgrade(s)

[machine4321]

I guess the audison will clean up the post amped signal just fine. In my years of installing, I would always try my best to get the pre amp signal just, but this was pre the days of the sound processors being needed/ popular. Not to mention the processors may not have enough gain if they are used before the factory amp.

Now that my warranty is up I may start adding some equipment to the explorer. A company I delt with for years makes a great line on flat subs and the amps are getting super small in size!
http://kaptionaudio.com/10-sql-series-flat-sub-woofer-400-watt-rms-dual-2-ohms.html

 

[machine4321]

I guess the audison will clean up the post amped signal just fine. In my years of installing, I would always try my best to get the pre amp signal just, but this was pre the days of the sound processors being needed/ popular. Not to mention the processors may not have enough gain if they are used before the factory amp.

Now that my warranty is up I may start adding some equipment to the explorer. A company I delt with for years makes a great line on flat subs and the amps are getting super small in size!
http://kaptionaudio.com/10-sql-series-flat-sub-woofer-400-watt-rms-dual-2-ohms.html

Great job on the install!

 

[champco]

Going to mention this again as there are alot of posts in here. I dont recommend taking line level from anything but the front ch feeds. I am almost certain the rears (and 3rd row) have a highpass filter. this will kill your low end response. sub frequencies run from 20hz-100Ish, If the rear speakers are in fact filtered, they will be filtered around 80 or possibly higher. If the feed is filtered at 80 hz (depending on rolloff) you will be missing the main portion on the sub band.

Again I have to assume as the fronts in my xlt do the majority of the low end and the 3rd row (if parallel are so tiny they would really need to be controlled) As for the sony system I would be getting the high pass feed on the sub ch before the factory amp.

"
I am almost certain the rears (and 3rd row) have a highpass filter. this will kill your low end response. sub frequencies run from 20hz-100Ish, If the rear speakers are in fact filtered, they will be filtered around 80 or possibly higher. If the feed is filtered at 80 hz (depending on rolloff) you will be missing the main portion on the sub band."

I disagree. It is not filtered from the head unit to the second row speakers. I guarantee it. The third row is simply in parallel. If there are filters for the third row they are on the speaker. The tweeter is filtered that way. I would not suggest it if there were any doubt.

If you have the 9 speaker system and have not torn it apart take it from one that has.
Yes the front door sounds like deep base. Replace them and enjoy nice balanced freq response to whatever speakers you replace the with.
That front speaker is junk. As soon as i can get to it it will be replaced, after I disconnect it and see how my speakers sound.

 

[machine4321]

I would like to know how that tiny speaker can handle the same volume that the fronts produce with out bottoming out? Notice I didnt say distort as that is a whole different topic. If the third row is in fact parallel (not arguing that as I have seen the same color codes in pictures and highly doubt the the 9 speaker would have separate ch for the 3rd row. And by filter, its not going to be a physical filter but electronic. tweeters are very easy to filter out with a capacitor or the like as the higher frequencies require much less power to reproduce(and create less heat). If you have had good luck feeding a sub off the third row then thats great. when I do it it wont be done that way, I wont chance it.

Just want to be clear I wasnt stating the front speaker was anything less then crap, its OE, but what I was stating is that the front is the only guaranteed channels that will have full frequency.

 

[champco]

I have to assume as the fronts in my xlt do the majority of the low end

I agree the OEM certainly sound deeper/louder if not all the bass in front set.
When I replaced them I was not certain what I was going to get. The OEM speakers are designed that way. It's not filtered, it's nothing special out of the head unit. The voice coil magnet is probably just tuned to do it. Not bad if the frames were not plastic, which has to/must flex and cannot respond to the power changes. So It's muddy. Too bad.
Many people do not care so it works for them.

Noticing the third row speaker has a metal frame even though it is not focused there.
If the front/dash speaker is the same it may explain why it does not sound terrible like the doors.

It is the same size I think.

 

[champco]

I would like to know how that tiny speaker can handle the same volume that the fronts produce with out bottoming out? Notice I didnt say distort as that is a whole different topic. If the third row is in fact parallel (not arguing that as I have seen the same color codes in pictures and highly doubt the the 9 speaker would have separate ch for the 3rd row. And by filter, its not going to be a physical filter but electronic. tweeters are very easy to filter out with a capacitor or the like as the higher frequencies require much less power to reproduce(and create less heat). If you have had good luck feeding a sub off the third row then thats great. when I do it it wont be done that way, I wont chance it.

Just want to be clear I wasnt stating the front speaker was anything less then crap, its OE, but what I was stating is that the front is the only guaranteed channels that will have full frequency.

The front/dash is a separate channel per some specs I found here. It is a 5 channel, 30w each system.
I also do not hear any distortion out of it either.
The OEM front door spkrs had the bass engineered in. The second row were certainly tuned with less Bass.
The Dash speaker must be a 30+ watt speaker. I am curious what I will eventually find. Since everything sounds ok and there are no problems I will not dig into it. No need.

Replacing the front doors with a good component system, full range/equalizer/tweeter system will amaze. I spent about $100 on discontinued new high quality. I went with round only because I have had good success in the past with good quality round speakers.
In the second row it needs a good quality 2way at least. I went with the three way because they were available. Again around $100. They did not sound good at volume till I unplugged the rear.
I would not be surprised if the radio speaker channels senses impedance and makes adjustments because It took a few days for my new speakers to really impress me with what was missing. Maybe my ears tuning into them.

Best advice. Keep it simple.

 

[champco]

If you have had good luck feeding a sub off the third row then thats great. when I do it it wont be done that way, I wont chance it.

The reason I say line level is one would not want to add additional impedance back on the channels. As I understand it, line level inputs do not add Impedance. If I find the right amp with two channel input I may set it up and see but honestly for me I do not need it.
If I do anything it will be to put a amp between the head unit and the speakers to give the speakers something closer to the 125 watt's they can handle. They can only get better.

 

[champco]

Front Door OEM

 

[champco]

OEM Tweeter on the right. New Pioneer tweeter on the left

 

[champco]

New Pioneer tweeter speaker installed in door panel. Hot Glue Gun

 

[champco]

Crossover zip tied to door panel.

 

[champco]

New Pioneer speaker installed on Front door with adapter. It was a good fit.

 

[Nando135]

Look at all these pictures and see if the plug/connectors match up.

http://www.crutchfield.com/p_975PP62DSP/Match-PP62DSP.html?tp=61674

I'm trying to tap into the front speakers with a line out converter for an amp, but everything I can find shows the front speakers as being white... white/striped wires. The harness I have coming out of the head unit doesn't seem to have the same colored wires, so I'm not sure which ones to tap into without having to open the doors to check the speakers. I have a 2013 Ex with the Sony premium sound.

 

[champco]

I'm trying to tap into the front speakers with a line out converter for an amp, but everything I can find shows the front speakers as being white... white/striped wires. The harness I have coming out of the head unit doesn't seem to have the same colored wires, so I'm not sure which ones to tap into without having to open the doors to check the speakers. I have a 2013 Ex with the Sony premium sound.

Get comfortable and start reading here.

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/index.php?threads/explorer-audio-upgrade-s.348974/

 

[Nando135]

Get comfortable and start reading here.

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/index.php?threads/explorer-audio-upgrade-s.348974/

Thanks! I think I found what I needed. I had already read the entire thread and looked at the wiring diagram on page 2 of this thread, but I don't know how I missed that there were 2 wire options for the speakers depending on the system. Thanks again.

 

[peterk9]

Is there any way to increase the sound from the 2016 Explorer Sport stock 12 speaker 390 watt sound system.
I am thinking an aftermarket subwoofer. Any suggestions.
I do like the Kicker Hideaway 8" Subwoofer.
Looking for fit and placement suggestions.

Welcome to the Forum.
FYI, all members are urged to use the 'Search' feature (upper right) before starting a new thread to check for existing ones on their subject. In this case, there are several on 'Audio Upgrades'. Yours has been merged with one of them. You can find others by searching on that phrase in the 'Modified' sub forum. Good luck with your project.

Peter

 

[wharriso]

The front/dash is a separate channel per some specs I found here. It is a 5 channel, 30w each system.
I also do not hear any distortion out of it either.
The OEM front door spkrs had the bass engineered in. The second row were certainly tuned with less Bass.
The Dash speaker must be a 30+ watt speaker. I am curious what I will eventually find. Since everything sounds ok and there are no problems I will not dig into it. No need.

Replacing the front doors with a good component system, full range/equalizer/tweeter system will amaze. I spent about $100 on discontinued new high quality. I went with round only because I have had good success in the past with good quality round speakers.
In the second row it needs a good quality 2way at least. I went with the three way because they were available. Again around $100. They did not sound good at volume till I unplugged the rear.
I would not be surprised if the radio speaker channels senses impedance and makes adjustments because It took a few days for my new speakers to really impress me with what was missing. Maybe my ears tuning into them.

Best advice. Keep it simple.

Thanks for all the info Champco. The 4 speaker plus sub woofer system I traded in (still in my sig) sounded wayyyy better that this Sony 12 speaker system. I am used to better bass and treble response in the car. I just ordered Infinity Primus PR6500cs (single speaker plus tweeter and crossover) for the front doors and Infinity Reference REF-5022cfx 2-way speakers for the rear doors. I didn't give these parts too much thought besides the brand because Crutchfield says they fit and they supply mounting hardware. I do not plan to touch the Ford subwoofer because I suspect it will sound better if all that bass is not going through the front doors. Have you found a need to modify the center dash or 3rd row speakers to get a significant improvement in sound?

 

[wharriso]

Sorry for this stupid question but I only see 3 bolts in the front door panels of my 2016 Explorer. Every video I see has 2 additional bolts behind the big door handle but those do not seem to exist on mine. Does anyone know if bolts are hiding behind some trim panel? I would hate to break something trying to force this thing open.

Thanks

 

[GeoGeek]

Sorry for this stupid question but I only see 3 bolts in the front door panels of my 2016 Explorer. Every video I see has 2 additional bolts behind the big door handle but those do not seem to exist on mine. Does anyone know if bolts are hiding behind some trim panel? I would hate to break something trying to force this thing open.

Thanks

One bolt is behind the plastic trim piece behind the door opener handle...you have to pry it out to expose the 10mm bolt behind it.
The other is behind the handle you use to pull the door shut. To expose it, you need to remove the plastic piece that lines that opening, which is also forms the panel with the window opener switches.
It is held in with pressure clips and is difficult to pop out, but it is possible.
That will expose the other 10mm bolt.

 

[wharriso]

One bolt is behind the plastic trim piece behind the door opener handle...you have to pry it out to expose the 10mm bolt behind it.
The other is behind the handle you use to pull the door shut. To expose it, you need to remove the plastic piece that lines that opening, which is also forms the panel with the window opener switches.
It is held in with pressure clips and is difficult to pop out, but it is possible.
That will expose the other 10mm bolt.

Thank you so much! I just went outside to try that since there had to be some reinforcement behind that door handle. I thought I was going to break it but now I know how to remove it. Thanks again.