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Explorer brake controller?

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Coronach

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i liked the redarc as it has a remote located knob to change brake bias. The tekonsha was like a radar detector....

thanks and let us know!
Yep, I have a Redarc on my truck and I love it.

I have fond memories of vocabulary lessons with my dad, where he would get in his truck, knock the brake controller with his knee or shin, and then teach me new words and phrases. I know that brake controllers have gotten better about orientation and ease of mounting, but they're still ugly and clunky. The Redarc is a brilliant option. Curt also offers a remote one, but the knob is HUUUUUUUUUGE.
 
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Coronach

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UPDATE:

Redarc got back with me. The present options are splice directly into the wiring harness, get a pigtail from Ford and splice into that, buy a Tekonsha adapter from Tekonsha and a Redarc to Tekonsha adapter from Redarc, and plug those together. Redarc is going to market a direct plug and play adapter for the Explorer, but it will be a few months until it is available.
 
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northvibe

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UPDATE:

Redarc got back with me. The present options are splice directly into the wiring harness, get a pigtail from Ford and splice into that, buy a Tekonsha adapter from Tekonsha and a Redarc to Tekonsha adapter from Redarc, and plug those together. Redarc is going to market a direct plug and play adapter for the Explorer, but it will be a few months until it is available.

I have my pickup truck in case I need to tow for now. I may wait a few months and see if they make their own Plug n Play. Thank you for contacting them. On my XLT i want to say there are some blank switch locations, so it may be a nice place to mount the knob. Otherwise the panel under the steering wheel is pretty empty and easy to take off/get to.
 
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Coronach

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I have my pickup truck in case I need to tow for now. I may wait a few months and see if they make their own Plug n Play. Thank you for contacting them. On my XLT i want to say there are some blank switch locations, so it may be a nice place to mount the knob. Otherwise the panel under the steering wheel is pretty empty and easy to take off/get to.

Earlier in this thread, the guy who mounted a Redarc just installed the knob down by the access panel for the fuse block (by the driver's left knee). I was actually thinking of putting it on the access panel itself. There seems to be enough space behind it, and that means that I would not be drilling a hole in the dash, even in an out of the way spot. The panel can't cost that much to replace if I wanted to go that route, too.
 
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Coronach

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Earlier in this thread, the guy who mounted a Redarc just installed the knob down by the access panel for the fuse block (by the driver's left knee). I was actually thinking of putting it on the access panel itself. There seems to be enough space behind it, and that means that I would not be drilling a hole in the dash, even in an out of the way spot. The panel can't cost that much to replace if I wanted to go that route, too.
UPDATE:

I just got an email from Redarc stating that the direct TPE to 2020 Explorer plug will be available June 1st. I asked if that was in the Aussie-only store or in the USA store as well, and I am waiting for a response.
 
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northvibe

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UPDATE:

I just got an email from Redarc stating that the direct TPE to 2020 Explorer plug will be available June 1st. I asked if that was in the Aussie-only store or in the USA store as well, and I am waiting for a response.

thats great! Thank you
 
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Coronach

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Available June 1 at the USA and Aussie stores.
 
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bills

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I'm looking at a 2020 XLT with the factory tow package. I have 2 questions:

1. Am I correct in saying that it is wired for a trailer brake controller but it does not come with one? As in, I would need to install something like a Tekonsha Prodigy, but the wiring is already present under the dash to plug it in. Correct?

2. A friend is selling a Springdale Mini 1760BH travel trailer. The specs all seem well within Ford's towing requirements, except frontal area (maybe). Single axle, 3,789 lbs dry weight, 520 lbs tongue weight, but it is 10' tall (curved front). Any ideas if this would cause problems to tow?

Thanks,

Mike

Hi Did you get a brake controller setup?

Which one did you get? Can you please post links to the parts needed? I would think this could all be ordered from amazon and use ford standard wiring adaptors .

Did you get a trailer? I Would like to get a passport 2400bh. It's about 5000lbs and under the 560 tongue weight. What other specs should I be looking at? Is that too big?
 
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red_stang65

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The 2400BH is going to be well over the limits for the Explorer. The 5,300 or 5,600 pound rating is based on a vehicle with a single driver with no cargo in the vehicle. Also, trailer dry weights don’t include full LP tanks or batteries, and are an average weight of that model so a specific trailer could be +/- a hundred pounds based on options.

There are several limits you need to think about when shopping for a trailer: payload capacity; Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR); Gross Combined Vehicle Weight Rating (GCVWR); Front/Rear Axle Gross Weight Rating (F/RAGWR); tongue weight; and the payload/GVWR/axle ratings of the trailer. To keep within all of those limits, while accounting for people and stuff inside the car and trailer, you‘ll have to target a trailer that weighs somewhere in the 2,800-3,000ish range.
 
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bills

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The 2400BH is going to be well over the limits for the Explorer. The 5,300 or 5,600 pound rating is based on a vehicle with a single driver with no cargo in the vehicle. Also, trailer dry weights don’t include full LP tanks or batteries, and are an average weight of that model so a specific trailer could be +/- a hundred pounds based on options.

There are several limits you need to think about when shopping for a trailer: payload capacity; Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR); Gross Combined Vehicle Weight Rating (GCVWR); Front/Rear Axle Gross Weight Rating (F/RAGWR); tongue weight; and the payload/GVWR/axle ratings of the trailer. To keep within all of those limits, while accounting for people and stuff inside the car and trailer, you‘ll have to target a trailer that weighs somewhere in the 2,800-3,000ish range.

Thanks for this. Tow capacity is 5600lbs. The 2400BH is 4800lbs dry. So you saying I'll have 800lbs of cargo etc? And a 2020 Ford Explorer ST can't handle that? What do you suggest the max trailer weight may be? Looking for some real world experience here.
 
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peterk9

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Thanks for this. Tow capacity is 5600lbs. The 2400BH is 4800lbs dry. So you saying I'll have 800lbs of cargo etc? And a 2020 Ford Explorer ST can't handle that? What do you suggest the max trailer weight may be? Looking for some real world experience here.
Do you have a 2020 ST? Your profile shows a 1995 Sport.

Peter
 
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blwnsmoke

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Thanks for this. Tow capacity is 5600lbs. The 2400BH is 4800lbs dry. So you saying I'll have 800lbs of cargo etc? And a 2020 Ford Explorer ST can't handle that? What do you suggest the max trailer weight may be? Looking for some real world experience here.

So I can tell you my 2 children, my wife, full tank of fuel, 2 full propane tanks and all the extras (food, games, mini grill, hoses, clothing, bedding) we load in our camper is about 1,600lbs (I dont tow with my ST). This also does not include the hitch (in your case, WD hitch). Just to give you an idea of how fast things can add up.
 
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red_stang65

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Thanks for this. Tow capacity is 5600lbs. The 2400BH is 4800lbs dry. So you saying I'll have 800lbs of cargo etc? And a 2020 Ford Explorer ST can't handle that? What do you suggest the max trailer weight may be? Looking for some real world experience here.

This website is a pretty good start for planning your weight threshold:


You’ll find the payload information and axle limits on the yellow and silver stickers on your driver side door.
 
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Coronach

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Hi Did you get a brake controller setup?

Which one did you get? Can you please post links to the parts needed? I would think this could all be ordered from amazon and use ford standard wiring adaptors .

Did you get a trailer? I Would like to get a passport 2400bh. It's about 5000lbs and under the 560 tongue weight. What other specs should I be looking at? Is that too big?
1. I'm going with the Redarc TowPro. I don't have it yet. Redarc is now selling a direct plug and play wiring harness, the TPH-006, for the Explorer. It is not listed as working with the 2020, however Redarc asked me to test it in return for swag (and a refund if it doesn't work right). Since the plug is the same we're all about 99.9999% certain that it will work just fine. I'll let you know when I get it set up.

2. I have a trailer, a Forest River Salem FSX 207BH. I have not yet towed it with the Explorer (no brake controller yet), but I have towed it with my truck (2011 Tacoma). It's about 3,300 lbs dry. This is well below the weight capacity for the 2020, and exactly where I want it. My understanding (I have limited experience towing) is that you want to be comfortably under the max capacity for two reasons. First, cargo adds up fast, both in the trailer and in the tow vehicle (passengers are considered cargo, so weigh your family). Second, even if you stay within the weight rating for both the trailer and the trailer/Explorer combo, driving with a vehicle right at the limit is not a lot of fun. Vacations are meant to be relaxing, not a white-knuckle experience to and from.
 
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Zeeb

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1. I'm going with the Redarc TowPro. I don't have it yet. Redarc is now selling a direct plug and play wiring harness, the TPH-006, for the Explorer. It is not listed as working with the 2020, however Redarc asked me to test it in return for swag (and a refund if it doesn't work right). Since the plug is the same we're all about 99.9999% certain that it will work just fine. I'll let you know when I get it set up.

There are two pigtails for the RedArc listed for the Ford/Lincoln. I messed around for a week trying to figure out which one it was and ordered the wrong one. I had an RV dealer install the unit and he said the pigtail I'd given him was the wrong one but he had the correct one in stock; he lied to me. The pigtail fit the Ford harness but not the RedArc unit so he had to splice things. I do not know if the other unit listed on the website is the correct one or not. I even called RedArc (trying to figure out what time it is in Australia was kind of hard for this old brain) and as it turned out, they were of no help anyway. Their listings only go up to 2005 not a 2020 model on the website. The USA importer/distributor was of no help either other than to give me some Tekonsha numbers.

Figuring out where to mount the dial was an issue; I'd have liked it mounted on the console but they were having none of it since the main unit is connected to the dial by a CAT 5 computer lead and they wanted to put it in the lower dash above the gas pedal. I didn't like that because you cannot see the control lights so it went on the left side of the lower dash. It's really not a bad place as it's easy to see and operate without being too obtrusive.

For the record I tried to get the Lincoln dealership to install the controller and they asked if it was made by Lincoln. When I told them no, the didn't want anything to do with the project. They said "if it's not made by Lincoln, we're not installing it...) When I told them that Lincoln did not make any brake controllers but offered the trailer towing package without one, what was I supposed to do? The answer; don't tow anything that has brakes.

Now I didn't buy it from these guys as they could not get me a Grand Touring Hybrid in this State so I went next door to Colorado. Now I know dealers do not like messing around with vehicles purchased at other dealerships, but when they could not get me one, what was I supposed to do?

I had a discussion with the service folks and they basically told me to go to hell. I was and still am, pretty pissed off about the whole deal. I spend $85,000 on a new car and they won't help me with it. I suspect that my next interaction with them will result in me having some SERIOUS discussions with the Lincoln CS folks.

It IS a Great car which I really like, the RedArc works great, I do not hit my knee with it getting in and out, but having this heartburn with the local service department has taken a big chunk of the shine off it..... :(
 
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Coronach

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There are two pigtails for the RedArc listed for the Ford/Lincoln. I messed around for a week trying to figure out which one it was and ordered the wrong one. I had an RV dealer install the unit and he said the pigtail I'd given him was the wrong one but he had the correct one in stock; he lied to me. The pigtail fit the Ford harness but not the RedArc unit so he had to splice things. I do not know if the other unit listed on the website is the correct one or not. I even called RedArc (trying to figure out what time it is in Australia was kind of hard for this old brain) and as it turned out, they were of no help anyway. Their listings only go up to 2005 not a 2020 model on the website. The USA importer/distributor was of no help either other than to give me some Tekonsha numbers.
Yeah, the two that were listed for Ford/Lincoln were TPH-007 and TPH-005. The brand new one that is Explorer-specific is the TPH-006. It does not list the 2020 as being compatible. HOWEVER ...

I have a TPH-006 on order, and when it gets here I'm going to test it out for Redarc. The CS guy was pretty sure that it will work, and will refund me if it doesn't. The other option is to splice, or to get two adapters, a Redarc-to-Tekonsha and a Tekonsha-to-Ford adapter. The former option is fine, the latter seems silly, but it WOULD be plug and play. Well, plug and plug and play, at least.

In any event, I just got a shipping notification, so we should know by next week if the TPH-006 will work.

Figuring out where to mount the dial was an issue; I'd have liked it mounted on the console but they were having none of it since the main unit is connected to the dial by a CAT 5 computer lead and they wanted to put it in the lower dash above the gas pedal. I didn't like that because you cannot see the control lights so it went on the left side of the lower dash. It's really not a bad place as it's easy to see and operate without being too obtrusive.
I'm considering mounting it directly on the access panel for the fuse block. It looks like there is adequate space for the back-end of the switch, and this way I'm not drilling a hole in the dash. I can even replace the panel pretty cheaply, I imagine, if I remove the controller and want to clean up the install.
 
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bills

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Hi all,
Would this the Tekonsha 90160 work with a 2020 explorer ST? Looking to tow a passport 240bhwe sl series travel trailer. Its dry weight is 5069lbs which should be no sweat for the ST.

Thank all!

Also considering the CURT 51180 Echo Mobile Electric Trailer Brake Controller with Bluetooth-Enabled Smartphone Connection, Proportional instead.
 
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jphilli1

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I thought I'd share pics of my install. I have a Tekonsha Prodigy P2. The pigtail is the same as the previous gen Explorer.
I added a bracket to the top of the P2 bracket (see pic) with a few small washers as spacers. Now when I want to use it I just slide it over the trim around each side of the OBD connector (see pic). On my last Explorer I drilled holes in the trim to install. This way I do not have any holes. I have the plug tucked in on the left side so I just pull it out and snap it on when needed.
 

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Zeeb

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Yeah, the two that were listed for Ford/Lincoln were TPH-007 and TPH-005. The brand new one that is Explorer-specific is the TPH-006. It does not list the 2020 as being compatible. HOWEVER ...

I have a TPH-006 on order, and when it gets here I'm going to test it out for Redarc. The CS guy was pretty sure that it will work, and will refund me if it doesn't. The other option is to splice, or to get two adapters, a Redarc-to-Tekonsha and a Tekonsha-to-Ford adapter. The former option is fine, the latter seems silly, but it WOULD be plug and play. Well, plug and plug and play, at least.

In any event, I just got a shipping notification, so we should know by next week if the TPH-006 will work.

I'm considering mounting it directly on the access panel for the fuse block. It looks like there is adequate space for the back-end of the switch, and this way I'm not drilling a hole in the dash. I can even replace the panel pretty cheaply, I imagine, if I remove the controller and want to clean up the install.
The pigtail I bought fit the chassis but not the RedArc. Since the RedArc comes with a pigtail as well, the tech spliced the two pigtails together.
 
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