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Explorer is Lifted But Want More

REDDY

Active Member
Joined
May 18, 2009
Messages
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City, State
NY
Year, Model & Trim Level
99 Sport
99 explorer sport

TT and Custom Shackles and bigger tires(275/70/16) i've already done. Now i want to SOA for 5" more in back but front? i heard you shouldnt do a torsion key with a TT, will it be that bad? Well thats my problem, atleast 4" more if not 5 in front to match SOA 5" lift in back.

No cutting fenders! lol I have the trim package also. I want to fit 35's so i have a problem with raising front end more without paying for the drop down kits that are exspensive or cuttings fenders.

Coilovers in front i started looking into, but dont want custom mounts so the bill runs up, just coil overs to fit in stock replacement but that they can add lift atleast 1or2"'.

5" in back with soa but in front i already have tt done and people are saying i shouldnt add a trosion key with a tt. Ideas pls with out cutting fenders or pricey mounts and welding.
 



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I also am wondering about a 2" body lift, i heard if you do a 2 and not a 3 you dont have to extend things or bracket things, thats is another question i have.
 






bottom line line is there's not much you can do thats real cheap. and a torsion twist and a torsion key are the same thing, they both twist the torsion bars, that's why you can't do both.
 






Trying to fit 35's without trimming is going to be difficult. Your best bet is probably a superlift.
 






dam, this is gonna take some real enginuity. So i'll put in 3"tkeys unless some1 knows of bigger than 3"tkeys, and gas shocks or coilovers to lift another inch or two, so thats like 5" lift 2 1/2" more than now but it will still b like 4" lower in front, than back still with shackles n SOA.

shackles and ubolts $100+ and = to almost 9" of lift in rear

front: gazillion dollars for 4", wtf lol

I thought about getting newer leaf springs since i have mono stock still but thats more money for less lift in rear but would even it if i didnt put new leafs over axle because newr leafs would give me 2" more than now so 6 in back n 5 in front, what can i fit with that pls say 35's lol
 






You could always try a sloped body lift to make up the difference in the front.
 






Never heard of a sloped body lift, got a link to a website, kind of dont want to go that route but i might. I might have to get a body lift also to fit 35's but was thinking 2" instead of 3" body lift because i heard with 2" you dont have to drop radiator n other things, is that true and wher? All i see is 3" body lifts
 






iv never seen or even heard of a sloped body lift. i think that would have to be customized? am i wrong?
 


















dam, this is gonna take some real enginuity. So i'll put in 3"tkeys unless some1 knows of bigger than 3"tkeys, and gas shocks or coilovers to lift another inch or two, so thats like 5" lift 2 1/2" more than now but it will still b like 4" lower in front, than back still with shackles n SOA.

shackles and ubolts $100+ and = to almost 9" of lift in rear

front: gazillion dollars for 4", wtf lol

I thought about getting newer leaf springs since i have mono stock still but thats more money for less lift in rear but would even it if i didnt put new leafs over axle because newr leafs would give me 2" more than now so 6 in back n 5 in front, what can i fit with that pls say 35's lol

are you 2WD or 4WD?

If 4WD, your plans will not work. Anything over 2" lift, without lowering the diff, will cause an excessive angle on the CVs and cause them to wear excessively fast.
5" lift with out dropping the diff? Good luck getting the truck to move at all without the CVs binding.

if you're 2WD, spindles aren't terribly expensive, plus you can TT as much as you want (except for the fact it causes a harsher ride, the more you tighten).
 






so i just have to lower front diff with longer brackets, thats it? i might do that if thats what ppl r sayin, so i dont have to lower torsion?
 






so i just have to lower front diff with longer brackets, thats it? i might do that if thats what ppl r sayin, so i dont have to lower torsion?

wow... you need to do some research on lift kits.

it will take MORE than just dropping the differential.

If your truck is, in fact, 4WD, then do some research on the kits that did/do exist and see what all is actually required for more lift.

lower the diff; this will also require lowering the lower control arms (ie, new LCA mounting brackets); which will in turn require new knuckles; or balljoint "spacers" like the traildisaster kit came with, which would also require some sort of spacer for the tie rods.
then you will need to lower the torsion bar brackets.

the kits are/were expensive for a reason.
 






traildisaster is right i refuse to pay 2k for somthing like that, whats all the medal worth that comes in kit if u brought to scrap yard, exactly, waste of money, i just dont know a fabricator that can cut and weld instead of me buying kit. bodylift, torsion keys, new gas shocks and whatever i decide to do in back, i will fit 35's without a $2k traildisaster kit
 






traildisaster is right i refuse to pay 2k for somthing like that, whats all the medal worth that comes in kit if u brought to scrap yard, exactly, waste of money, i just dont know a fabricator that can cut and weld instead of me buying kit. bodylift, torsion keys, new gas shocks and whatever i decide to do in back, i will fit 35's without a $2k traildisaster kit

are you really going to compare a kit's value to the amount of metal it contains?
what about the time spent to design, jig, weld, etc.? not to mention the knowledge required to even design it...

and once again, don't bother with torsion keys. you get the same thing for free by simply cranking up the stock ones.
 






traildisaster is right i refuse to pay 2k for somthing like that, whats all the medal worth that comes in kit if u brought to scrap yard, exactly, waste of money, i just dont know a fabricator that can cut and weld instead of me buying kit. bodylift, torsion keys, new gas shocks and whatever i decide to do in back, i will fit 35's without a $2k traildisaster kit

a kit is worth more than the metal.

they probably spent hundreds (if not more) of man-hours doing the research and design. Then they have to do the testing. Not to mention all the special jigs, stamping press designs, etc.

and talking about wasting money; torsion keys are a waste of money.
They do nothing more than increase the amount of preload on the torsion bars. You get the same exact result by doing a torsion twist.
and don't go any more than 2" up front unless you want to replace your CV shafts every month.

you'll be cutting to fit 35's with 5" lift or less.
I had to trim a bit to fit 33's with ~5" lift.
and it'll still rub if I bottom out the front suspension.
 






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