Explorer/Mountaineer Ford Repair Book Reference

[nssj2]

I assume you have either a code p1746 or p1747. The only way this books tells to test it is electronically, with a specialty scanner that can send a voltage to the sensor representing a certain PSI, thereby reading a corresponding voltage from the sensor. The 4R70W is the only tranny listed to have a test port on the EPC. Might not hurt to ask around on here for a second opinion.

 

[biggjohnson76]

thanks for the info nssj2. As you probably know I have a 5R55E transmission. Do you know if there is a test port for line pressure?

 

[Milan Petrovich]

explorer

do you have anything reguarding a light out module causing right lowbeam to not work as well as door unlock button drivers door and fog lights out . This is a bad problem i need help thanks in advance


Milan Petrovich

 

[yanksball14]

have anything on no dashlights? The indicator lights work (CEL,door ajar, etc.). I took the cluster out and 4 bulbs were bad, replaced them and still nothing. dimmer switch doesnt dim lights or anything but when "clicked" upwards the dome light does come on. I have checked the fuses and I cant figure it out. any help would be great

 

[CDW6212R]

It's probably that switch. I had that issue with my Lincoln, and the dimmer switch fixed it.

 

[yanksball14]

awesome. I will try that and hopefully it works! thanks!

 

[JohnnyBoyyy]

Starter Removal For 1995 XLT

I solved my starter relacement problem! I just finally figured that I could do this with some great help from other forums here. BUT, I can't get this posting to delete. I'll keep working on how to make that happen or do whatever is right to make sure everyone knows I got er done!

Thanks, Johnny

Jim

I've read wayyy too many posts on how to remove and install a new starter on my 95 XLT 4WD with automatic trans and the 4.0L engine. The more I read the more confused and scared I get about doing this. I'm reasonably good at most repairs on the Explorer so far, but replacing the starter must be harder than I thought it would be. Also, this is my first post, so I hope this reply to thread will work.

My question is - do your manuals go into detail about how is best to get the starter out and a new one back in?

Any help you can give me would be reallly appreciated.

Thanks

John

 

[pubenemy]

I have 97 awd 5.0, I have started getting a bad transmission leak in the last 5 days. After cleaning everything off I thought it was coming from the pan, but now it looks like it may be higher up. I did find an odd bolt towards the backside of the transmission pan above it that was loose. I tightened it of course. Is there any filters or anything odd with the tranny that you may know of from the book? The leak seems to be coming from the backside of the pan up a little higher possibly. Its hard to tell without a lift and some good lighting. Any help is appreciated.
-Mike

BTW Its doesnt look like its coming from the main seal or the seal from the transfer case. I replaced the transfer case when I got it several months ago, but since I had the front driveshaft go bad and did not replace it. I get alot of vibration on the highway I was thinking this is from the front driveshaft not being hooked up. Could the driveshaft not being hooked up cause an overheat and come out the pressure tube? Is there a filter possibly thats clogged and needs replacing. Again thank for any input.
-Mike

 

[Walldingo]

John, I'm not sure what you've been reading on the Starter? It's a couple bolts and a couple nuts.

 

[daviehill80]

will the remote antitheft personnalty module shut off my fuel supply

 

[blus]

if the linkage from the outside door handle came loose it may have become lodged in the latch release mechanism. or possible the locking solenoids on both sides are frozen from corrosion. this would also block release mech.
You can wedge the window and use a car door opening tool the dislodge the linkage. ths should be done by a trained tech (locksmith) or such person. be carefull who you pick. it could be costly.
removing the panel from the inside is difficult and may damage the panel. Good luck.

 

[codestar7]

98 Explorer XLT Pats fuse location

My 98 XLT..used, sat up under the trees for a while and got some moisture. Lights were a hassle. Runs really well now, but has a particular problem. Just every once in a while, for no apparent reason, when tripping around town, you'll turn the key with the little red theft light flashing like it always does and the wipers will start and the heater fan or the radio comes on as you turn the key for the second it takes to turn it, but then the car goes completely dead. It doesn't try to turn over or anything else and remains dead for about 15 seconds after that. Then the theft light starts blinking again but if you go to turn the key again it will do the same thing.
I've perused the site and discovered one tidbit that says if the car wont start and the theft light goes out, check the PATS fuse. This makes me thing the computer link is failing for some reason, either through the fuse or the connector. I know where the computer is in the left reat boot with the panel cover, and I know where the fuse panel is inside the drivers door and under the hood. I haven't discovered the exact Computer fuse or link yet but I'm sure I will.
The restart for this I've discovered through trial and error. Disconnect the negative terminal of the battery for about 15 minutes. This allows the computer to reset. Then either jump the battery or use a battery booster to restart the car. I've put the car on the sophisticated battery / alternator checker immediately after an incident like this , (the battery is 800 cold crank amp, and brand new) at the tire store. But the alternator is charging at 85 amps high and 67 amps low the battery is one hundred percent at 14.6 volts. There seems no problem with the charging system.
Anyone seen anything similar to this? Any one know specifically where the fuse and link are for the computer in a 1998 Explorer? Thanks Chris

 

[dani9678]

I need to get the torque specs for the front hubs and suspension on a 1995 Explorer 4wd. I am going to be replacing the lower ball joints tomorrow and want to make sure that I get the front hubs in addition to the ball joints and tie rods to the right torque specs. I was reading the sticky on the replacement of the lower ball joints but I want to know the true torque specs.
Thanks, Matt