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Performance Upgrades - Maintenance - Modifications - Problem Solving - Off-Road - Street Trucks. Covering the Explorer, ST, Sport, Lincoln Aviator, Sport Trac, Mercury Mountaineer, Mazda Navajo, Ford Ranger, Mazda Pickups, and the Aerostar. Featuring H.I. - Human Intelligence.
What are the Ford factor ranges for toe, camber and caster for second generation AWD Explorers? I've been to several different alignment shops since I've owned my two Explorers and each shop has different ranges.
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Im wondering the same thing since after having my truck aligned it pulls slightly to the right. I went back and had them redo it, its not as bad but still there and according the guy at the shop everything is spot on.
There was a site I saw somewhere that had "factory" alignment specs for just about any vehicle you can think of, I believe all the alignment machines have these numbers programed into the computers anyway. You have to take into account that tire wear/inflation, steering gear and bushing wear, spring sag etc can all affect the handling of your truck no matter how close to "spec" you get it. BUT from what I learned just by going thru different shops #1they dont always have the most qualified tech doing alignments, # 2 they only do minimal adjustments (toe only) and just wont take the time to do a thoro inspection and or adjustments...as long as it rides straight(or close to it) then they are fine with it. I found a few that did an excellent job only problem they are a bit out of the way and lil more $$$ me but you can be assured next time I need some aligning I will go out to these places
Well I had the front end aligned because I just had 2 new BFG ATs installed. I knew my alignment was way off to begin with, it did track straight and steering wheel was straight. The camber and toe was way off on the driver side, far enough that I could see. I had it aligned a week after the tires were put on (limited funds) and noticed while driving to work the steering wheel was off and it was pulling to the right. It was noticeable and annoying. I looked at the front and it looked like the passenger side toe was out (towards the right). Took it back in on Monday and had them check it. Tech, I think he was a manager/tech took it for a ride and confirmed that it does indeed pull to the right. Put it on the lift and checked the alignment again. He made some adjustments and went for another ride and came back in and told me that it was in spec to begin with, but he set the camber and toe as close to perfect as possible. He came in and explained what he did and the tolerances. Now it is better, but not perfect. A few weeks from now I may go to another shop and have the alignment checked and possibly realigned if it is indeed off. I will have to find my alignment sheet and post what my specs are currently.
since the vehicle is set sitting still it cannot reproduce the drag effects from driving. .3 is required because when you start to drive the drag from pushing the wheels forward puts load on the bushings and forces thing in a rearward direction. This force changes the angle of the steering components and it supposed to settle into 0 when driving. thats the theory, now when your vehicle gets older and the bushings start to loosen the required settings will change. Many times this is why when the alignment was set correctly at the shop it will feel off when driving it home. Every vehicle actually has a sweet spot, those numbers they use are only guidelines.
Remember everything effects the dynamics of the way the tires align. Actually it would be best if the vehicle was aligned with the normal driving loads applied (IE driver in the seat with all the gear, force applied to the wheels rearward. etc..) any additional load on the vehicle will change the way the tires align. If you weigh 200lbs and your aunt bertha gets in and she weights 600lbs your alignment will be different between you and your sweet antie
That is why when we do a Torsion bar twist we need to realign the front end. As you raise the vehicle (with a TT) it shortens the required length of the tie rods since the wheels are actually moving closer together. In a perfect world the tie rods would always be in a perfect line with the front axle, but there is no suspension that I know of that can achieve this goal, since the pitman arm would need to move with the suspension. Although a solid axle is probably worlds better than a IFS in this department. The IFS just introduces additional variables to the alignment.
not sure if this makes sense, if not I will try to draw up some diagrams later tonight.
i Have new bushings, >1 year old tires and new brakes, rotors and hardware, and it STILL pulls, they "alligned it" when they did my balljoints a month ago, and its not on at all
the easiest way to check for tire prob would be to cross the tires. Right side to Left and Left side to Right. if the follows the tire, the tires are causing it.
do you have the alignment sheet with the actual alignment figures (opposed to what it should be)??
I had some very similar problems with what has been described. It turns out that the caster is really not adjustable; Exs don't come with the cams necessary for proper adjustment.
My alignment shop installed the cams, made the adjustments, and trued the tires ($60). After that it is like riding on glass. They charged me around $180 if i remember right for parts and labor to install the cams.
um dont u mean u want the RF caster to be higher (< 0.5°) than the LF caster to compensate for road crown?...unless you drive on the left side of the road. Im pretty sure caster will pull to the side with the least caster.
So many cars that I have drove pull to the right. I dont know if it has to do with the driver on the left, gas tanks, tires, etc.. My car pulls right, I have 22s, Properly inflated tires, pretty new, I thought maybe the leafs but If driven IRS cars and they do the same
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um dont u mean u want the RF caster to be higher (< 0.5°) than the LF caster to compensate for road crown?...unless you drive on the left side of the road. Im pretty sure caster will pull to the side with the least caster.