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Factory Amp bypass run around

jar2187

Well-Known Member
Joined
November 13, 2002
Messages
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City, State
Rhode Island
Year, Model & Trim Level
92 EB, 96 limited
I got a new headunit for christmas. I read on here that you need to bypass the factory amp or you will run into problems. So I got to harnesses. One is from I forget the name of the company but it has the line level controls in it. I Took the other harness back to circuit city and the guy there said that i didnt need the amp bypass harness because the other harness acts as a lever or something. So I hooked everything put and still got no sound, called the guy and he gave me a wicked attitude and said that he isnt going to tell me because thats what he gets paid for, so I say that I have read somewhere that they sell a harness that will bypass it and he said nope the only to do it is to rewire the whole car. And he hung up on me. So my question is, should I take back the wiring harness behind the dash and get the complete kit that has the bypass one in it?
 



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would it sound better with the wiring harness that has the inline converter built in or with a regular harness
 






I had to do the same thing as you. I got my kits from Auto Zone. I think that I wound up using two different kits, but not for sure it was almost two years ago. Any way I found one of the packaging inserts from the wire kit.

Scosche Audio EFX FD02 Car Stereo Connector

Here is the service number is have any questions, 1-800-621-3695 ext. 3 .
 






ok so my head unit is on the way and i bought the schoche wireing harness(the basic $9 one) what do i have to do with this amp?
 






You just unplug both the input and output from the amp and run the bypass wiring inplace of the amp. Then use the small square plugs to wire your new head unit into the factory wiring in the dash board.

To access the factory amp you will have to take the interior pannel out of the back passenger side of the cargo area. The amp is located infront of the factory subwoofer/cargo pocket back there.
 






yes, you just wire it normally up front.

then in the rear you can replace the amp with that kit- or else just cut the connectors off and solder the correct wires together ( i did i write-up sort of following that method)
 






You can make an aftermarket deck work with the factory amp. You have to get the power ant lead from the deck feeding the turn on wire to the amp, and give it the correct phase speaker level input. I have been running mine for about a year now.

On the aftermarket kit I purchased, I had to rewire the main power plug because it didn't match the factory harness.
 






yes you can run it with the factory amp in there but you will get the same sound quality as with the factory stereo. the by-pass isnt that hard...it just takes awhile to pull the side panel. hunt hunt hunt for screws and the plastic retainers and then pull hard....the worst part is putting it back in cause you have to pull like a mutha to get the panel to snap back on to the rear of the door jam (if you have the 2 door...the 4 door souldnt be as bad in either dept.) just buy the by-pass harness and go that route...you will be much happier in the long run and so will your door speakers.
 






i have no problem getting to the amp i just need to know what wires to splice and all.
 






most stereo shops have a harness that you just plug into the factory harness...they are about 15 bucks.
 






yeah thats $15 too much
 






i have a harness that will work with normal ford but it doesnt by pass the amp
 






then you buy 8 bucks worth of wire and a lot more trouble to cut the factory wires and play the matching game....oh and if you want good sound and something that wont come loose then you will need to solder it or use wire nuts...by then it will put you at about the same 15 bucks if you use nuts or if you dont have a soldering iron it will put you way over. time is money and ill bet its cheaper to just pay the outragous price of $15 and make 2 clicks with the connectors.
 






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