FAKRWEE Navajo 44 swap | Page 2 | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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FAKRWEE Navajo 44 swap

My new front end got in today. It's a custom Dynatrac 44 front axle assembly.

List of goodies include:
Reverse cut housing upgrade
Warn premium manual locking hub set
30 spline 3/4 ton alloy steel axles
Upgraded Disc brake Ass. 5.5.5
Ford coil spring bracketry
5:13 gears-reverse cut
ARB 3.92+ ver.
1310 dana 44 u-bolt style yoke
Heavy duty ends package
Heavy duty steel dif. cover
High clearance steering package
Width= 62 in.

I saved my pennies for quite awhile to be able to afford it but she's a beauty. I almost feel like not installing it.

I hope the pictures come out my battery started going dead.

The installer is fourxDr. in Burbank and Winter's designing the radius arms. We know they will be wristed but will not have pin's like bc broncos. I'll include pictures as we go along. Today they took apart the front end. I'm hoping the job will take about a month.:bounce:


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I guess I'll just have to retire at 101 yrs. old to pay for it. Or sell all the old stuff I've taken off. That's what my wife keeps saying. I tell her it's the bug man.:confused:

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Originally posted by FAKRWEE

1-When I quoted the D44 vs D60 price diference was between $1,500.00 & $2,000.00 depending on the set up. I personaly prefer to spend that money on something else like 17in. rims and 37in. tires which are very expensive. Or a klune V if they ever make them.

Good point. I wasn't sure what the going rate for a RC 60 from Dynatrac was.

2-D60 is virtually unbreakable but has a few drawbacks I considered. 1st is weight. A complete D44 weighs approx. 240 lbs. A D60 approx. 505lbs., more than double the D44. I don't want to install a V-8 and the only way to improve HP is to eliminate weight. That's way I sold my old bumpers and got some new light weight ones with better approach and departure angles. I also made a new 28 gal. rear tank and eliminated the old heavier built 30 gal. I had in the stock location. I know these sound like small adjustments but I feel the difference. I don't stall as much because I don't have to give it as much gas as before when I'm climbing.
I have a stick shift and they are very sensitive.

Weight is important. The less the better. When it is distributed properly you can get away with a slightly heavier rig.

3-The much heavier D60 will cause tires to wear much faster.

Depends on your air pressure, overall weight, etc. Plus my junk will b on a trailer most of the time, so thats not an issue. :D

4-People I've talked to that have D60s on a short wheel base like mine pointed out another problem. Weight transfer and center of gravity problems on steep sidehills which could lead to rollovers. It seems that on an extreme sidehill once it reaches a certain point the weight transfer on the D60 can actually flip you over. The D44 is more forgiving. And I like forgiving. On trails like Rubicon when sometimes your travelling on steep sidehills that are so off-camber that your spotter is sitting on your lap a sneeze can flip you over.Also the same applies on sharp turns at fast speeds on dirt roads. Once you go past your traction limit the d60 will pull you a lot faster than the D44.

2 door wheelbase is 101". That's not that short. Acutally its almost ideal for crawling, depending on your preferences.

Besides, if you are on an extreme sidehill, as long as you have a cage and there isn't a dropoff on the other side of you... Chicks dig body damage!

5-For a six cylinder a D60 is overkill. You can upgrade a D44 and make it a lot stronger if you need too. Randys' Ring & Pinion makes a 4340 chrome-moly axleshaft that doesn't neck down like the stock ones. When an axle necks down it loses strength and that's your weak point.
Another nice feature is that they are made for a full-circle retaining clips. Stock axles only allow for a c-clip retainer. Warn makes hub fuse that will blow before your axle or a u-joint. And the list goes on and on.

I totally disagree here. As long as you match your crawl to your tire size, even with the weight, the 4.0L will produce enough power to move around easily.

I'm still waiting to hear reports from guys running D44s with over 40" tires with alloys and CTMs. I know that setup will handle 37s, but for me, a 37" tire just isn't big enough. Hell, a 38.5" might end up being too small. :D

Those hub fuses are junk. The only way they are useful is if you have an open diff. They say NOT to install them with lockers because of the potential of damaging your locker. I'm not trading a locker for hub fuses.

For rock crawling you don't really need it. I think their best application would be for mudders.

Again, I disagree. If they are overkill then almost every competitive rig in ARCA, CalRocks, ProRocks, RRCA, etc wouldn't be running them.

Have fun.

That's what it is all about! Once it's built, go out and have a blast. I'm very interested to see how your explorer comes out when it gets back from the shop.

Hey CoryL we totally agree on one thing. The most important.

GO HAVE FUNNNNNNNN:bounce: :bounce: :bounce: :cool: Maybe we'll get together and do some trails.:D

Originally posted by CoryL

I'm very interested to see how your explorer comes out when it gets back from the shop.


anyway, hopefully now you can retire at only 100 since my purchase of those rims

and your navajo looks badass and by the sounds of it preforms as well as it looks

Well I visited the Navajo Tuesday when they were fitting the 44 for locating the radius arms. here are some pictures.

1st the coil buckets. I had originally thought of keeping my old ones with double shock mount on them but decided to buy 2 Chrome-moly buckets Winter had.


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Here's a shot of the complete pumkin before we started taking measurements.


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Starting to take measurements.


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It looks very nice. Except, are those Grade 5 bolts on the coil buckets? I hope not. That would be a shame.

Very very nice, man i can't wait to see the finished product!!

Happy trails!!

Good eye KEbert. Thanks. I'm going to the shop tomorrow. I'll find out for sure.:nono:

Thanks Jot. Quite a project you did youself on the tranny swap.:thumbsup:

I've been shopping for 17in. rims and tires. Man are the rims expensive. The cheapest set of rims I've found are Eagle Series 589 17x8 @ $154.95 ea.
Xtreme Alloys 17x9 @ $149.95 ea.

If anyone knows of a cheaper rim let me know.:eek:
I got to cut corners somewhere:rolleyes:

Anyway I'll keep you guys posted on the:hammer:

Does US Wheel make a 17" steel rim?

Not that I'm aware of, but I'll check thier web site and find out. Thanks:)

Well just my luck. US Wheel has the site down due to improvements. I've looked at my magazines and can't find a 17" rim.

Thanks Tarheel, do you know their website. I need 5 on 51/2 lug pattern. And that seems like a good price.:) Do you know of anyone who actually owns a set.

Whatever you get make sure it's strong enough not to shatter under impact... That's the biggest problem with aluminum rims.

Thanks Tarheels. I don't know what that would be in mm. I'm guessing 139.70mm based on my poor math:confused: If anyone knows please enlighten us.
As far as I can remember the 5 on 51/2 was used on F-150 up to 1996 or so, Mid 70's chevy full size and Jeep CJ-5, and CJ-7 late 70s and 80s.

Yikes:eek: Not to shatter under impact. That sounds dangerous.:D

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Centerline, Weldwheel, and Alcoa all have strong aluminum rims that will bend upon impact there are even shops that can straighten them out if you do bend them. The cheap brands are brittle and can shatter as I was saying.