fan clutch?? water pump?? | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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fan clutch?? water pump??

RichMel

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June 10, 2020
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City, State
Acton
Year, Model & Trim Level
2003 explorer sport trac
Hi, I was on this site with my ranger, then I up sized to a 2003 Ford Explorer Sport Trac. Had to put a transmission this year, but now I,m having over heating a little, but I replaced my fan clutch twice, because of the "airplane" noise. This noise keeps coming back, the engine seems to be to hot, but the reading is in the right spot. I'm not leaking any antifreeze,the pump, when I had the fan clutch off seems tight...I dont know?? I think its the water pump? Thanks
 



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Have you had the opportunity to listen to a similar vehicle to see if the sound is normal?
 






Typically, when you have a bad fan clutch you experience overheating while idling. As your on your 3rd fan clutch I'm guessing that's not your issue. The water pumps on the 4.0L is quite easy to replace. I assume you've replaced the thermostat already?

As I recently learned, these engines will crack their heads between the valve seats when overheated (much like the 4.0L OHV engines).

How are you verifying your coolant temp? I wouldn't rely on the position of the TEMP gauge.
 






Typically, when you have a bad fan clutch you experience overheating while idling. As your on your 3rd fan clutch I'm guessing that's not your issue. The water pumps on the 4.0L is quite easy to replace. I assume you've replaced the thermostat already?

As I recently learned, these engines will crack their heads between the valve seats when overheated (much like the 4.0L OHV engines).

How are you verifying your coolant temp? I wouldn't rely on the position of the TEMP gauge.
Hi koda2000, ya I'm relying on the temp gauge, I put in a new thermostat, something strange yesterday, I replaced the lower rad hose, and when I drained the antifreeze into a bucket...there was a nut.
 






Hi koda2000, ya I'm relying on the temp gauge, I put in a new thermostat, something strange yesterday, I replaced the lower rad hose, and when I drained the antifreeze into a bucket...there was a nut.

That is strange. If that nut, where ever it came from, somehow went through the WP it would probably have messed up the impeller.
 






That is strange. If that nut, where ever it came from, somehow went through the WP it would probably have messed up the impeller.
I know...do you know if there is a sensor for the temp?? The engine is getting to warm, setting off the sensor on the fan clutch...thanks for your help.
 






Your fan clutch has a sensor?

Why do you think the motor is too hot?
 






I know...do you know if there is a sensor for the temp?? The engine is getting to warm, setting off the sensor on the fan clutch...thanks for your help.

IDK about the '03, on my '01 there are two temp related monitors, a sensor and a sender, both located in the t-stat housing. One is for the TEMP gauge (a sender) and the other is for the ECU (a sensor). If you have a clutch fan (as opposed to an electric fan/fans) there is nothing electronic that turns the fan clutch on/off. Most fan clutches are controlled by a thermal spring located in their center. When the coolant/radiator gets hot the thermal spring expands and engages the fan's clutch more firmly (it always spins). IMO the TEMP gauge is a bit like the oil pressure gauge, though not quite as dumb. As long as the temp sender is w/in an acceptable "normal" range the needle rises to the approx center of the TEMP gauge's sweep. I believe this because I've seen my temp gauge go from "normal" to extreme overheating almost instantly. On the cold to normal setting the rise of the needle is gradual. Neither the oil pressure and temp "gauges" are not really gauges. Real gauges have numbers on them.

I'm not saying your temp gauge, or its sender, are lying to you, just not telling you the whole truth. If it were my truck I'd replace the WP. If you keep allowing your engine to overheat the repair bill will be huge if you crack a head(s). My engine turned out to have cracks between its intake and exhaust valve seats on 3 cylinders. One cyl on one head and two cyl's on the other (not of my doing). Replacement reman heads cost me $742. Add the cost of a full gasket set, the cost of "you might as well also's" and you repair costs for parts alone will exceed $1,200, or more for quality parts, not including labor. I removed my engine and checked and rebuilt everything in it my and my total repair bill for parts alone was around $2,500. If I had to add labor costs to that I would have scrapped the truck.
 






IDK about the '03, on my '01 there are two temp related monitors, a sensor and a sender, both located in the t-stat housing. One is for the TEMP gauge (a sender) and the other is for the ECU (a sensor). If you have a clutch fan (as opposed to an electric fan/fans) there is nothing electronic that turns the fan clutch on/off. Most fan clutches are controlled by a thermal spring located in their center. When the coolant/radiator gets hot the thermal spring expands and engages the fan's clutch more firmly (it always spins). IMO the TEMP gauge is a bit like the oil pressure gauge, though not quite as dumb. As long as the temp sender is w/in an acceptable "normal" range the needle rises to the approx center of the TEMP gauge's sweep. I believe this because I've seen my temp gauge go from "normal" to extreme overheating almost instantly. On the cold to normal setting the rise of the needle is gradual. Neither the oil pressure and temp "gauges" are not really gauges. Real gauges have numbers on them.

I'm not saying your temp gauge, or its sender, are lying to you, just not telling you the whole truth. If it were my truck I'd replace the WP. If you keep allowing your engine to overheat the repair bill will be huge if you crack a head(s). My engine turned out to have cracks between its intake and exhaust valve seats on 3 cylinders. One cyl on one head and two cyl's on the other (not of my doing). Replacement reman heads cost me $742. Add the cost of a full gasket set, the cost of "you might as well also's" and you repair costs for parts alone will exceed $1,200, or more for quality parts, not including labor. I removed my engine and checked and rebuilt everything in it my and my total repair bill for parts alone was around $2,500. If I had to add labor costs to that I would have scrapped the truck.
Hi koda2000, everything you wrote make's sense...I'll replace the water pump..thank you.
 






Hi koda2000, everything you wrote make's sense...I'll replace the water pump..thank you.

I hope this fixes your problem, but even if not you can eliminate the WP impeller from the list of possibilities. Compare the impeller of the new pump you your old one once you have it off (eleven small 10mm bolts as I recall). When I replace a WP I always also replace the short bypass hose. For the hose I highly recommend a Motorcraft hose. Aftermarket hoses do not fit well. The last aftermarket one I bought I through away and reordered a Motorcraft hose.

Bypass hose: (around $10 off eBay)
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