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fan clutch

john cris

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I'm fixin to replace the water pump and fan clutch on my 2003 explorer 4.0. Does this take a standard or reverse rotation fan clutch? This motor is stock with a serpentine belt set up. I'm seeing both standard and reverse rotation are available for this motor.
Thanks,
 
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Number4

"I'm counting to 3, then I'm getting your dad."
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I'm only seeing a reverse rotation option. The one labeled "standard" is probably reverse as well. Are they the same brand?
 
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imp

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I'm fixin to replace the water pump and fan clutch on my 2003 explorer 4.0. Does this take a standard or reverse rotation fan clutch? This motor is stock with a serpentine belt set up. I'm seeing both standard and reverse rotation are available for this motor.
Thanks,
This doesn't make much sense. The stock pump turns in reverse rotation, so thus also does the clutch. The cheaper non-thermal clutches may actually be bi-directional, in that their internals, pump and turbine, are likely straight-across the gap design. The thermal type varies the angle of impact of the fluid based on the air temperature hitting the coiled spring on the front, whereas the non-thermal relies only on the viscosity change of the fluid when it heats up.

I would never go with a non-thermal type. imp
 
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mountaineer2004

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My car has 179k with the original fan clutch. Do you think it should be replaced, or not?
I plan to keep the car till at least 300k. Thanks.
 
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imp

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My car has 179k with the original fan clutch. Do you think it should be replaced, or not?
I plan to keep the car till at least 300k. Thanks.
Assume you have the factory, plastic fan blade? First, look at it's hub, all the way around, watching for evidence of cracks. Early on, Ford had lots of crack problems, 1990s. So much so, they re-formulated the plastic used, so intent were they on keeping the design. I found cracks on my '89 5.0 and '90, replaced the blades with the "fixed" design. I learned of the cracking problem from a very good Ford parts guy.

If you find no cracking, grasp the the blade with both hands, diametrically opposite, and feel for movement, wiggle, in the clutch bearing. If it's fairly tight, yer better off, IMO, to keep the old clutch as a new replacement might prove worse. BTW, "play" in the pump bearing is detected at the same time. If you can move those blades about 1/8-inch or more back and forth, look closely where the "play" is coming from. If it's in the clutch, best replace it. If the water pump shaft is "wiggleable", absolutely replace the pump.

Be aware that, whether normal or reverse rotation, a failure allowing separation of the fan blade from it's containment, can result in it's blades "screwing" themselves into the radiator core. A NASTY happening. Happened to me once, long ago. Wish I had a pic of the radiator! imp
 
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Drewmcg

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Re: the OP's question, this product description of the Hayden thermal fan clutch on Rockauto explains whether you have a standard or reverse fan clutch: More Information for HAYDEN 2776
 
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