FINISHED: differential, R&R halfshafts

[Number Twelve]

"Uploads are not available", so just imagine what a differential looks like with the ends of the half-shafts still in it. Very standard 8.8" rear end. Got the pumpkin at the Automotive Dismantling and Recycling Emporium on 40% off day.

Couldn't blow the half shafts out with a 5 pound sledge and a crowbar, so we split the booties and disassembled the proximal CV joints. Now it's all pretty and clean and setting on the work bench and acting like the shaft ends are not coming out. So, is this a "wedge and a sledge" job? That's what the "special tool" looks like in the workshop manual.

Please tell me they go back in easier than they come out! If they are as difficult to put back in, I'm going to need a hydraulic press under the car!

All the gears look pristine, but the pinion bearings and one side bearing are not perfect, so it's going to get all the bearings and seals replaced. I just need some advice from a person who, "been there, done that". Will the half-shafts just click into place or will I need an elephant to shove them into the pumpkin?

 

[lincolnshibuya]

you just tap it out with a 2x4 at an angle and it will come out easily without damaging the halfshafts.
use the OEM circlips when re-installing, the aftermarket is a bit thick to push it all the way in securely. Also replace the seals with the redesigned one, they don't need a protector (during installation of the half shafts) and the dust cap is built in.

 

[Number Twelve]

OK. Ford Dealership for the circlips? Re-designed seals? All three? Stupid question. I only named the half-shafts. Also going to do the pinion bearings and therefore seal. Your favorite online seller, like Rockauto? NAPA? O'Reilley? Advance? Auto Zone?

I finished douching the insides. I'm gonna go back out and choose a nice 2x4 and take a swing at it.
My nephew can break anything, and he hit it with a 5 pound sledge at the yunk yard. Fail! Maybe a chunk of 2x4 will give me a better angle and not being under the car will give me a better swing. Be back soon.

 

[mendy]

I had this issue and did the same thing
Prybar, lump of timber hammer they were not coming out

To get the half shaft out of the carrier I unbolted the diff cover and had to tap them out from the inside, didn't concern me a I was putting in a rear locker
They go back in easy, though I kept the cvs separated, pushed in half shaft one the diff was bolted back in, big socket and extension bar for a couple of gentle taps to make sure they're in place, then put the remainder of the shaft in and do up the boot
Have someone hold the spindle end up so it's parallel when doing up the clamps

 

[Number Twelve]

That worked.
I already had the cover off and so got an angle I would never have achieved with it on. Then I used the confidence lincolnshibuya gave me and whacked that sucker like I meant it.
Everything is easy...right after you know how.

Guess what...the circlips aren't round. They look like they're one size too small so they bulge out just back of the open gap in two places. I guess the whacky whacky move jams them down into the grooves far enough to flatten out the bulges.

then put the remainder of the shaft in and do up the boot

So I guess you strongly recommend taking the upper CV joint apart so there is something to whack on when re-installing. Note to self: Buy those clampy straps and the right tool...or will it work with a screw type hose clamp?

 

[mendy]

Initially I put the whole shaft in as on piece but I couldn't slide it all the way in, so I had to undo the boots from underneath and give them a tap to seat in the diff housing

If they were a c#^t to get out they might be a pain to get back in completely

Clamp wise I just replaced them with regular screw type hose clamps

 

[Number Twelve]

Thanks. I'll be careful not to get sand in the CV grease.

 

[boominXplorer]

The way I get them out in the truck is I pry them outward against the housing with a pry bar and hit the back edge with a blunt tip air hammer. The air hammer basically vibrates the axle to help get the cir clip to pop out. That damn clip can be a pain.

 

[imp]

Initially I put the whole shaft in as on piece but I couldn't slide it all the way in, so I had to undo the boots from underneath and give them a tap to seat in the diff housing

If they were a c#^t to get out they might be a pain to get back in completely

Clamp wise I just replaced them with regular screw type hose clamps

@mendy
Hose clamps on a driveshaft will cause vibration; in fact Ford recommends them used thusly to iron out stubborn vibrations, right in their Shop Manual. I did it 50 years ago, when I welded up my own driveshafts, sloppy welder.

Half shafts turn only about 1/4 as fast as driveshafts, so the vibration might not be very noticeable. Just sayin'. imp

 

[Number Twelve]

Now I'm looking at re-build kits and not seeing what I expected. Two output bearings that look like really cheesy needle bearings. Only half filled with needles. Then two for the pinion shaft look like good bearings. Then there are two massive bearings carrying the gears. That's 6, but the kits I'm seeing only have 4 bearings.

What? Don't do the big bearings on the gear carrier?

Hey @lincolnshibuya
Can you point out where to buy those, "improved" output seals?
They don't seem to be in the re-build kits, either.

 

[boominXplorer]

You can buy a regular 8.8 rebuild kit with timkin bearings and that will take care of the main 4 bearings and pinion seal. Then you can buy the side axle shaft bearings and axle seals separately. Don't forget to clean and soak your clutch packs with friction modifier if your axle is limited slip. If you buy the side axle seals from napa or Ford dealer they will come with new axle circlips. DO NOT REPLACE the clips. You will catch hell trying to put them in without an air hammer.

 

[lincolnshibuya]

Hey @lincolnshibuya
Can you point out where to buy those, "improved" output seals?
They don't seem to be in the re-build kits, either.

buy the OEM from the dealer, I bought the SKF brand from NAPA before and they leaked after 2 yrs (that's why they're so cheap now)
It comes with the circlip, the SKF brand has a larger circlip that's a PITA to push in the shaft (not a direct fit)
2nd time I did it was painless and quick..

 

[Number Twelve]

you can buy the side axle shaft bearings and axle seals separately.

I get it. A kit for inside accessible bearings and another kit for outside accessible bearings. I can see why more people lose those cheesy output needle bearings than the "real" bearings on the inside.

This junk yard pumpkin doesn't have any leaks. The gears are pristine. If the backlash in the ring gear is still within spec. (0.01") I just got a strange feeling I'm about to save a few hundred dollars by doing the outside accessible only. Gotta buy a new dial gauge cause mine got broken during the 30 years since I last needed it.

 

[boominXplorer]

Napa now stocks the EXACT same revised seal that the dealer sells for about $25 each. Part number NOS 18005 and it's the revised 2pc seal. You have to buy the side axle bearings separately.

 

[Number Twelve]

Thanks. NAPA, I got. First, buy a new dial gauge. Second: decision based on measurements.

Backlash is good. Have a grocery list and I'm off to see the wizard.

 

[lincolnshibuya]

NOS 18005 from NAPA is "SKF" - buy at your own risk.

 

[Number Twelve]

Glad I got delayed leaving the house. I guess I'm going to the Stealership for the parts. They will probably have the bearing/ seal driver, too.

Wasted day.
At the Stealership: $66 for the seal, $30 for the bearing. That's $96 plus tax...PER SIDE!
"We don't sell the installer tool...or any tools at all."
Harbor Freight didn't have any bearing jerker attachments for a slide hammer.
Advance only had one bearing.
I think it's going to be an internet purchase.

Edit: EVERYBODY has better prices than the Stealership!!
Rockauto has a nice National Brand seal with a good looking design...two lips, spring reinforced. $5.70 instead of Dealership $66.00
Also available locally at Otto-Zone for $12.99
I guess you just have to go shopping or you'll get screwed to death.

 

[mendy]

Get a cut off wheel and cut the bearings off, they're stuck on pretty good
Get new ones pressed on at a shop

I paid $72 for new carrier bearings

 

[imp]

"I guess you just have to go shopping or you'll get screwed to death."
@Number Twelve

Sounds like fun, though! imp

 

[boominXplorer]

The seal installer I use is double sided for 8.8 and 9.75 seals has a 3ft extension so you can leave the housing in the truck. I think I paid $75 on ebay for it.

If you don't feel like messing with it I'll offer to rebuild it for you for a couple bucks. Housings don't cost top much to fedex. PM if interested.