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First time waxer with orbiter

Hey guys

I just purchased a buffer from a garage sale and I plan to use on my own as well as family vehicles. As I am new to the waxing game I decided to ask first before I start. What waxes work well with a metalic paint job? What are the best steps to take in prep? What tips and tricks do you have? I currently use a falcon wash and wax car soap to clean the car. Keep in mind this isn't a show car just want to make my own car look a little bit better. Thanks for the help.

Scott aka trailblazer295 (using dads ID)
 



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I like meguiars Gold Class wax it makes my eX shines.
 






Is there wax good? i have tried other car cleaning products from them IE tire cleaner and have not been pleased at all.
 






I use mothers power wax made for buffers. The only thing I can think of is be very careful not to burn your paint as in hold the buffer in one spot for too long or it will screw your paint up. I only used my buffer on my truck once shortly after I first purchased it....It's always better to hand wax a car. Plus buffers fling the wax onto you black seals, bumper ext. and it's a pain to get off.
 












What is the manufacturer and model number of the orbital?
 


















Wax off, wax on grass hopper.. LOL!

Any other pearls of wisdom? LOL I will be trying it out tomorrow with some Turtle wax that I have on my parents car first. ;) then my own.
 






Find a old car to practice on. Something that you can't screw up!
 






Thats what the parents old caravan is for, it will be the test subject before I use it on the good cars.
 






I use Zaino exclusivly.

here are two reasons why...

door.jpg


100_0843.jpg


All hand done.
The door shot is five year old factory paint.

The hood shot is three year old after market paint.

www.zainostore.com
 






I believe MVP produces a one-speed line. If so, it won't be effective for cutting polishes, but it'll do quite well on applying and removing wax or sealant (use a microfiber bonnet). And your forearms will thank you after.

As for tips, assuming you're using it to wax, use light pressure, don't focus energy on the edges, and change the bonnet as necessary. The longer it stays on, the greater chance of picking up contaminants or having wax get caked on, and the greater chance of doing damage (i.e., clearcoat scratches).
 






Monmix, you got to much time on your hands! Insane wax job! That's awesome!
 






After a few days to mull it over at the cottage im going to sell the buffer and do it by hand. Just bought my first car and don't want to do ruin the paint. Thanks for the help.
 






If you use the orbital buffers, not the high speed buffers, burning paint should be impossible. And the only orbital buffers worth buying will keep turning and orbiting when you put pressure on them on the paint. Cheap orbital buffers just stop basically in one spot when you push hard. Those are only good for putting on wax or taking it off, not for actual resurfacing of the paint. The good ones typically have the very large pad, about 11" or 12". Those are tough and can take serious abuse, including laying on them with heavy pressure. You don't need to use heavy pressure, but for any paint not clean and perfect it needs some "elbow grease."

Avoid the plastic and flat textured parts, most waxes will be hard to remove from those. Do not wipe waxes into cracks or seams. Put on just a light layer, and use the buffer to spread it and do the work. Avoid doing every square inch, do the hard to reach stuff by hand and a rag etc.
 






That polisher is probably only good enough to spread the wax faster than by hand. Honestly, those one speed orbitals aren't that great. You wont ruin your paint. They dont have enough torque.

As mentioned earlier, it wont remove scratches or other imperfections, but with a foam pad and bonnet, you should be fine.

Wash, claybar, wash, wax. There are too many waxes to specify just one. If you want longevity, gloss, and ease of application w/o a buffer, use a paint sealant.
 






Im considering going with wash, polish(nu finish) wax. How would this combo work? Keep in mind I already have nu finish. I've read that polishing an older car with swirl marks before waxing will help improve the look.
 






The true downfall of such machines is that there are so many variables that will actually make your paint finish WORSE than it was before you started!! It make take a few washing to see it though.

If your surface is not contaminant free then the orbital will merely use those contaminants as source for causing a ton of swirls in the clear and possible create even deeper defects. Clay bar use is strongly suggested to avoid this!

Sure ... you won't burn your paint ... but you can certainly swirl the hell out it alot faster than you would doing it by hand

If you want to learn more about restoring or protecting your finish autopia is a pretty good forum for info
 



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Im considering going with wash, polish(nu finish) wax. How would this combo work? Keep in mind I already have nu finish. I've read that polishing an older car with swirl marks before waxing will help improve the look.

If you truly want to polish and remove swirls from any automotive finish you need the right combo of abrasive and tool.

As was previously stated the orbital will do nothing to improve swirling and in fact could very well make it worse

Restoring a paint surface is somewhat of an art form ... it requires time ... practice ... the right tools ... and the right chemicals. It can be done safely and effectively ... just NOT with an orbital

Perhaps I will do a write up when I restore the 01 Sport I recently added to the stable ... so much to do though ... ahhh ... which reminds me ... I better get to the detail shop and pick up some new pads!!
 






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