fitting 35's on a 2000 - Jefe | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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fitting 35's on a 2000 - Jefe

Many people have asked just how much I had to trim to fit 35x12.5's on my new model explorer when I only had ~4.5" of lift.

I figure a picture is worth a thousand words so:

Front End:

35_Pic001.jpg

Red arrow indicates start of modification. By the bottom I think 3-3.5" are removed from stock.

35_Pic002.jpg

Red arrow showing where I removed pinch weld

35_Pic003.jpg

Bumper modifications. Bolts are holding plastic to the metal 'frame'

35_Pic004.jpg



Rear End:

35_Pic006.jpg

Red arrows showing where I bent the metal edges away from the tire

35_Pic007.jpg

Rear trim modifications

35_Pic008.jpg


With this current setup I have eliminated all audible rubbing with the exception of when I stuff a front tire all the way up. Then its only very minor, and not very often. In the rear it still touches the front of the wheel well but I don't want to cut that for fear it will look bad. The rear also touches the top of the inner well at full stuff



A Detailed How To:

Step 1: buy old 35" tires, mount tires, 'hack' away at where you KNOW it will rub.

Step 2: take offroad, flex, etc . . . making notes of where the current tires rub

Step 3: mark with tape where it still rubs and accomidate for more tread on new tires.

Step 4: Trimming:

A: Front:

Fenders
For the fenders I taped where I wanted the new fold, removed from vehicle and used a jigsaw, sawzall, hacksaw, and whatever else I could find (:shoot: :hammer: ;)) . . .leaving an inch of 'unwanted' metal to create a new fold. I then used vise-grips and folded the remaining metal over.

I then used a sawzall on the pinch weld, and welded the fresh cut back up (no negative effects so far :))

Remount fenders

Bumper
Mark bumper with tape. Remove bumper, drill out rivets drilling through bumper. Install bolt washers and nut where rivet was. Cut bumper along tape with circular saw (makes for a straighter edge) or sawzall.

B: Rear:

Remove tire. Take a BFH :hammer: to any metal causing rubbing.

Mark rear trim with tape. Remove rear trim (two nuts, two 'push-pins', and three plastic 'clips') Take sawzall to metal beneath trim. Use jigsaw/circular saw on trim. Replace trim.

Step 5: Test offroad, flex, etc. Note rubbing. Repeat any necessary steps from above.

Step 6: Spend your months salary on tires. mount tires. Take offroad. Flinch and :fire: and curse :frustrate as you tear up your new investment in tires because they rub. . .:D Note rubbing. Repeat any necessary steps from above. (Note: I wouldn't suggest repeating any of step 6 :p)
 



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Jefe, if I did this trimming do you suppose I could run a 33" tire with only a 2 inch lift?

Looks great and not noticeable. Awesome job!
 






As far as 33's on 2" of lift. I did run 33's with only a TT/Shackle lift for a few days. You wouldn't need to even trim very much. . maybe an inch back from stock on the front fender. The problem would come with the fenders above the wheel. I was rubbing my 31's at the tops of my wheel wells with my TT/Shackle lift. Not to mention it would look really silly with 33's and practically no lift.
 






Thanks for the advice Jeff!
 






cool but it looks as if I went that route id have to trim right into the stock tupperware flares hrmmm...

good pics.... you used a sawzall right?
 






Jefe, where it says removed the pinchweld...how exactly was that acomplished? like cut it off and welded it back together, or gusseted it, or ???
 






Ah yes. . my 'how to' steps -- first post updated

Yes, those who still have their 'tupperware' (fender flares included) will most likely have to trim some of it out.
 






Jefe, can you please post a link for me to that thread? i have looked for 15 minutes and still havent found it. Thank you.
 












Oop, I misposted.... I didnt see the steps in your first post... i thought they were on another thread.. nevermind..

ahh....cut it then weld up new line...got it.... did you arc or mig or tig it up?
 






Originally posted by jimabena74
. . .did you arc or mig or tig it up?
um what?. . I just weld. . .:)
I believe it is a mig welder, but i don't know what a tig welder is (assuming the one i use IS a mig).
 






arc is straight electricity, mig is metal inert gas-meaning arc with a gas to surrond the arc and allow better penetration-usually CO2 (can also be wire feed) and TIG tungsten Inert gas- like mig but uses sticks of tungsten steel like arc but with gas around it
 






Yeah Jefe, clean and mean.:cool:
 






your running stock gears? 3.73? hows that working out? i know you probably do fine offroad when in lowrange but what about 4hi? do you get enough power?

i was with jon mccloed (aka fmexplorer) after he got his new tires before he got 4.56 and lockers, he had 3.27 gears with 35s and actually went wherever he wanted, but not too much low end power. of course his new setup is so rad... i digress..

do you plan to regear?
what ratio?
where are you getting front end gears and do yo know how much for just the gears?

btw- i am very impressed... good job! i believe that form should follow function and you got plenty of function!
 






nevermind some of my questions as i just went to your site.
if you dont mind, what did you pay for your front end gears? did you install? how much for install if not?
 






I regeared to 4.10's for my 33's . . .back before we knew any better.

I actually ran the 35's with the 4.10s for quite a few months :rolleyes: :o

But Now I've got 4.88's :bounce: :bounce: and wow. :) he he

anyway, I paid ~$250 for the current front gears. I removed the axle and took it to get regeared. Cost me $100 for the install that way :cool:
 






jefe, with the TT and shackles and trimming do you think i could fit 32's or 33's either/or? i am also doing a one inch body lift (today as a matter of fact) which will give me a little more clearance. i might be able to run the 32's without trimming once i get the body lift. i dont know. that is why i am asking your opinion. thanks (in advance).
 






If you don't mind trimming, somewhat like I did, yes you could get 33's without much problem on a TT/Shackle + 1" BL. Only problem I see is at the top of the fender, depending on the stiffness of your Torsion bars and manufacturering tolerances.
I agree that 32's would probably fit without trimming.
 






i ran 32s with only tt and shackles with only the most minor rubbing on back of front fenderwell. i trimmed just the inside edge of tupper wear off. i now have the 2" body as well as the tt and no rubbing. i think i could run 33's if i took tupperwear all the way off.
 



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jefe, when you removed the tupperware what did you put in the holes? i see the little black things but where did you get them?
 






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