Fix or replace engine on 1998 Explorer

[FordJimbo]

I recently bought this really nice Explorer. It's a 1998 Sport 2wd and cosmetically it looks fantastic and is rust free, and overall I'd rate it about a 7 our 8 out of 10 for attractiveness and mechanical. Steering, brakes, transmission, etc. all feel strong.

Everything important works (except heater). I'm having engine problems. I would really like to salvage this SUV as I really enjoy it and it drives and handles really surprisingly well and it's perfect for my around-town errands, dog park, etc.. It has 202,000 miles. I'm actually surprised how much I really like this SUV....

If I get rid of it, I'm back at square 1 with having to buy something to replace it. So I'm willing to put, maybe $1500 or even $2000 into getting it really tip-top. Am I being stupid?

Here's pictures. What would you do? See explanation below.

Here's the issue. The engine was strong when I got it but I figured I'd work on it myself and did some routine maintenance (oil, filter, plugs, wires, PCV, cleaned and replaced some emissions stuff). I still have a fuel filter and O2 sensors to replace. Well, I miswired 2 of the plug wires, fired it up, heard a bang, turned it off. Checked everything, fixed wiring, and now I've got a gurgling problem.

Now it is very rough to start, and gurgles for about a minute with revs going up and down the RPM from about 100 (nearly stalling) to 2000 RPMs. I rev it a bit, it settles down, and then drives fantastic. But I think there is obviously a problem that cannot be ignored.

I've noticed some leaks however. Before I did the work, somewhere it's losing coolant and the resevoir needs refilled. Before I started doing work, I also noticed it's got a small oil leak from somewhere on the block. Also, oddly, the heater doesn't work but the defrost does. I think I might have disconnected something but cannot locate it.

Oh, it fails emissions and I need it to pass this month... so that's another concern... a new motor may or may not resolve that... I suspect that's why the prior owner sold it. Too many failed emissions issues.

I'm at the limit of my patience, winter coming, nowhere to work on it at the moment. Here's my dilemma.

I can source a lower mileage motor for about $1000. I know a guy who will install it for $500. And I would probably have the timing chain work done on a install before doing the install, so a couple hundred more.

Or do I pay to get it diagnosed and attempted fix. I can probably get it diagnosed for $100. I'm guessing I'd pour $500 -1000 into various "fixes" on a 200,000 mile motor. Then there's the dreaded timing chain issue, probably another $500 repair...

Given oil leak, losing coolant somewhere, etc. I'm inclined to pull the motor and replace it, keep it for parts, etc. Your feedback is really valuable though as I'm just not familiar with this vehicle, issues, longevity, etc.

 

[donalds]

Nice truck I'd keep it
Biggest factor is does it rattle when you first start it for the day ??

 

[FordJimbo]

Nice truck I'd keep it
Biggest factor is does it rattle when you first start it for the day ??

No rattling. I suspect you're eluding to a timing chain issue? I don't hear any unusual noises, but I will pay close attention.

I found a local engine with about 110,000 miles on it that has been pulled and compression tested and steam cleaned that I can get for about $1000. I'm strongly leaning on that... I'd be into it for under $2000 and have a 110,000 mile engine on this ride...

I fear by the time I diagnose this gurgling issue, and a oil leak, and a heater issue, and a coolant leak somewhere (although a new engine may not resolve the coolant leak), and probably having to pull it anyway for a timing chain job in the near term (another $500 or so), I'm spending good money that could be spent smarter on a new engine...

 

[donalds]

Can you make a video .....YouTube.... of it starting up and running
I have the same truck as you I just have 2 more doors

 

[FordJimbo]

Can you make a video .....YouTube.... of it starting up and running
I have the same truck as you I just have 2 more doors

Maybe. But it's quite simply just a gurgle as though it's struggling for fuel. I can rev it and it revs fine. I'm wondering if some fuel adjustments, 02 sensors, throttle adjustments, etc. might easily resolve it.

When it is warm, after the first 1 minute of struggling to stay running, it runs like a champ. Powerful, no loss of power, quick and agile, etc. for this type of vehicle.

Oh, I forgot to mention, it fails emissions and I need it to pass this month... so that's another concern... a new motor may or may not resolve that...

 

[donalds]

Sounds like intake gaskets to me
Others will chime in with suggestions

But no rattling = 80% good engine

And it's the sport model

 

[FordJimbo]

Sounds like intake gaskets to me
Others will chime in with suggestions

But no rattling = 80% good engine

And it's the sport model

So realistically, for the best LONG TERM solution and bang-for-the buck...

What is the "realistic" long-term life of this engine.

Say it's 250,000 miles. I'm already near the end of the lifespan.
If it's 400,000 miles, I'm at 1/2 life.

A 100,000 mile engine really is a game changer for a difference of maybe $500 or $1000 versus band aids on a engine nearing it's end of useful life...

Say it's a series of relatively simple fixes. Do I pour say $500 (low end) to $1000 or $1500 (mid-high, including near term say 50k miles timing chain replacement)..... ?

Or...

Bite the bullet, spend say $1500 or $2000, which addresses a host of issues (oil leak, age, wear, etc.) found on a 200,000 mile engine by replacing it with one 1/2 it's age. While I'm at it, I could easily have high-wear items done at that time (starter, timing chains, etc.) while the engine is out and easier... I'd have a very young vehicle for another $1500 or $2k....

 

[FordJimbo]

More analysis... as I think out loud here. I have 7 vehicles, and this a dedicated local in town grocery getter and dog park transport, short range errands, etc. It's the perfect vehicle for me for these limited duty needs to keep in town miles off more important vehicles in my inventory. That represents a lot of local wear and tear on a motor. I do get it up to operating temps and on the highway from time to time.

I am trying to think "long term" and would like to own and drive this for the next 5 or 10 years. Amortized over that long-term, $2000 investment in motor, installation, and extras represents a small investment for a good reliable in town driver....

I'm really leaning on a newer younger engine... But I do think I will take it to my mechanic soon and have him evaluate it and give an opinion.

 

[Mike65]

Welcome. WOW, that is a very clean looking Sport, I would keep it & fix it. That looks like a 99 or 2000 year. It looks like my wife's 99 Sport.

 

[FordJimbo]

Talked to mechanic, he says 60 bucks to crawl around in it and give an opinion....
Decisions decisions...

I'm thinking "best case" several hundred dollars to do this and that... to restore a 200k motor.

 

[C420sailor]

I think donalds is right. Probably had a backfire that blew the gaskets out. Check for vacuum leaks...a significant overpressure event like that can cause things attached to the manifold to split and pop. Not $$, just can be tricky to find. If it compression tests well, I’d fix.

The weak link on the SOHC is the valve train. If you don’t have a rattle yet, that engine has PLENTY of life yet. There are guys here with over 400k on SOHCs.

Mine ran with a bad rattle for 80,000 miles before I decided to replace to replace it.

 

[donalds]

Whatever you do Get a metal thermostat housing
For the love of all sweets please ....

 

[German Engineer]

It's a beauty and I'd think it's most likely worth keeping, but that's something you need to ask yourself and comes down to how good the suspension, the drivetrain and the brakes and even the tires are and all that. And how much you enjoy driving it or how emotionally attached you are.
But I always recommend looking at it as rationally as possible and just considering what budget you have. And also a generally important aspect do you work on it yourself or do you already run to your trusted local Ford dealer for any little light bulb that needs to be "professionally" replaced.

Kelly bluebook value or the expected resale value is one thing to consider, the other and probably more important question is, what else are you going to get with the money you can spend, and how much better or worse will that be in the end.

If the rest of the vehicle is in as pristine a condition as the photos suggest and you like the car, then keeping it and spending the money on repairing or replacing the engine would almost be a no brainer in my opinion.
As suggested by others already I would also put new timing chain tensioners and a new main seal on the replacement engine if you already have it out and decide to swap the engine.

Spend the (little) extra time and money to replace and fix all of those few most common parts that cause issues on that specific engine over time and that can only be repaired while it's out of the vehicle. Then you will have an engine that will be 'like new' for many years and many miles to come.

 

[Hacra]

Keep the car and fix the issue, all the gaskets can be replaced with quite simple set of tools, though it will require some effort.

Gasket kit for whole engine is around 100$, top side gasket kit around half of that.

Edit: the car looks great!

 

[scottydean]

Tough choice but that is what sweet looking ride!

 

[DJ Al]

Very nice\clean looking ExSport.
I'd spend a few hundred$ changing gaskets, all VacuumHoses, PCV Valve+Hoses, IACValve,
Clean the EGRValve+Tube,
check the TPS, MAF, DPFE sensors for good\steady signals, change if needed.
See how she runs at that point. If not good, make a decision: new engine or sale.

If good,
change OilPressurized TimngTensioners (if you don't know when\if they've been changed),
change the junk Plastic ThermoStat Housing to an Aluminum ThermoStat Housing with new TStatValve
change all Coolant Hoses, Pump, Fan+Clutch,
change junk 1\2CorePlasticTanked Radiator to a 2\3\4CoreAllAluminumRadiator,
service tranny, brakes, suspension,
change all fluids+filters....

From your photo...(engine compartment) That power brake vac line going to the intake looks suspect. If this vehicle ran fine when you first got it and then it coughed through the intake, it is also possible that your vacuum lines might have blown loose going to egr and ecg and fuel cannister. They can be sneaky in appearance and lay where they appear to belong. make sure they are snugly back where they belon. as mentioned your intake gaskets may have broke seal..you may be able to correct this by re-torquing the isolator bolts. Looks very nice. Good luck and stay warm!

 

[sandsprayer]

Nice shape!
If you go to sell it, let us on this Forum get first shot @ it!

 

[scottydean]

Speaking of selling may I ask the proper protocol if you post an ad? I recall reading you need to join Elite Explorers which is totally reasonable. Is there a new thread to sell your vehicle that shows if you are an Elite Explorer member? I may sell mine next spring just thinking ahead.

 

[jr230]

I recently bought this really nice Explorer. It's a 1998 Sport 2wd and cosmetically it looks fantastic and is rust free, and overall I'd rate it about a 7 our 8 out of 10 for attractiveness and mechanical. Steering, brakes, transmission, etc. all feel strong.

Everything important works (except heater). I'm having engine problems. I would really like to salvage this SUV as I really enjoy it and it drives and handles really surprisingly well and it's perfect for my around-town errands, dog park, etc.. It has 202,000 miles. I'm actually surprised how much I really like this SUV....

If I get rid of it, I'm back at square 1 with having to buy something to replace it. So I'm willing to put, maybe $1500 or even $2000 into getting it really tip-top. Am I being stupid?

Here's pictures. What would you do? See explanation below.

View attachment 325340

View attachment 325341

View attachment 325343

View attachment 325344

View attachment 325345

View attachment 325342


Here's the issue. The engine was strong when I got it but I figured I'd work on it myself and did some routine maintenance (oil, filter, plugs, wires, PCV, cleaned and replaced some emissions stuff). I still have a fuel filter and O2 sensors to replace. Well, I miswired 2 of the plug wires, fired it up, heard a bang, turned it off. Checked everything, fixed wiring, and now I've got a gurgling problem.

Now it is very rough to start, and gurgles for about a minute with revs going up and down the RPM from about 100 (nearly stalling) to 2000 RPMs. I rev it a bit, it settles down, and then drives fantastic. But I think there is obviously a problem that cannot be ignored.

I've noticed some leaks however. Before I did the work, somewhere it's losing coolant and the resevoir needs refilled. Before I started doing work, I also noticed it's got a small oil leak from somewhere on the block. Also, oddly, the heater doesn't work but the defrost does. I think I might have disconnected something but cannot locate it.

Oh, it fails emissions and I need it to pass this month... so that's another concern... a new motor may or may not resolve that... I suspect that's why the prior owner sold it. Too many failed emissions issues.

I'm at the limit of my patience, winter coming, nowhere to work on it at the moment. Here's my dilemma.

I can source a lower mileage motor for about $1000. I know a guy who will install it for $500. And I would probably have the timing chain work done on a install before doing the install, so a couple hundred more.

Or do I pay to get it diagnosed and attempted fix. I can probably get it diagnosed for $100. I'm guessing I'd pour $500 -1000 into various "fixes" on a 200,000 mile motor. Then there's the dreaded timing chain issue, probably another $500 repair...

Given oil leak, losing coolant somewhere, etc. I'm inclined to pull the motor and replace it, keep it for parts, etc. Your feedback is really valuable though as I'm just not familiar with this vehicle, issues, longevity, etc.

I recently bought this really nice Explorer. It's a 1998 Sport 2wd and cosmetically it looks fantastic and is rust free, and overall I'd rate it about a 7 our 8 out of 10 for attractiveness and mechanical. Steering, brakes, transmission, etc. all feel strong.

Everything important works (except heater). I'm having engine problems. I would really like to salvage this SUV as I really enjoy it and it drives and handles really surprisingly well and it's perfect for my around-town errands, dog park, etc.. It has 202,000 miles. I'm actually surprised how much I really like this SUV....

If I get rid of it, I'm back at square 1 with having to buy something to replace it. So I'm willing to put, maybe $1500 or even $2000 into getting it really tip-top. Am I being stupid?

Here's pictures. What would you do? See explanation below.

View attachment 325340

View attachment 325341

View attachment 325343

View attachment 325344

View attachment 325345

View attachment 325342


Here's the issue. The engine was strong when I got it but I figured I'd work on it myself and did some routine maintenance (oil, filter, plugs, wires, PCV, cleaned and replaced some emissions stuff). I still have a fuel filter and O2 sensors to replace. Well, I miswired 2 of the plug wires, fired it up, heard a bang, turned it off. Checked everything, fixed wiring, and now I've got a gurgling problem.

Now it is very rough to start, and gurgles for about a minute with revs going up and down the RPM from about 100 (nearly stalling) to 2000 RPMs. I rev it a bit, it settles down, and then drives fantastic. But I think there is obviously a problem that cannot be ignored.

I've noticed some leaks however. Before I did the work, somewhere it's losing coolant and the resevoir needs refilled. Before I started doing work, I also noticed it's got a small oil leak from somewhere on the block. Also, oddly, the heater doesn't work but the defrost does. I think I might have disconnected something but cannot locate it.

Oh, it fails emissions and I need it to pass this month... so that's another concern... a new motor may or may not resolve that... I suspect that's why the prior owner sold it. Too many failed emissions issues.

I'm at the limit of my patience, winter coming, nowhere to work on it at the moment. Here's my dilemma.

I can source a lower mileage motor for about $1000. I know a guy who will install it for $500. And I would probably have the timing chain work done on a install before doing the install, so a couple hundred more.

Or do I pay to get it diagnosed and attempted fix. I can probably get it diagnosed for $100. I'm guessing I'd pour $500 -1000 into various "fixes" on a 200,000 mile motor. Then there's the dreaded timing chain issue, probably another $500 repair...

Given oil leak, losing coolant somewhere, etc. I'm inclined to pull the motor and replace it, keep it for parts, etc. Your feedback is really valuable though as I'm just not familiar with this vehicle, issues, longevity, etc.

have you pulled the codes? if not take it to one of the stores who will pull the code.it could you aim in the right direction. don't forget if you but the new engine you need to flash the computer or when emission tester plugs in and vin on engine doesn't match the computer it will flunk
i have a 1999 with ohv 6 and 5 speed it needs a clutch but i cannot do that repair anymore but i wish my paint looked that good Florida sun and sand on roads do a job on the paint if everything is good but engine imo i put 2500 in it the were a great truck once you got rid of the firestones

 

[sandsprayer]

Speaking of selling may I ask the proper protocol if you post an ad? I recall reading you need to join Elite Explorers which is totally reasonable. Is there a new thread to sell your vehicle that shows if you are an Elite Explorer member? I may sell mine next spring just thinking ahead.

Don't know if you need to be a member to see the classifieds, they are about 3/4 down the main page.
There have been posts in the generation/ model specific posts offering up their trucks, not sure if it's proper.
Best to ask the man himself @Rick. Show him the love and join up!