fixed shift motor-still no 4x4

[bnz 41]

I just wanted to get some advise as to what to check next. First some background. My 92 xlt wouldn't go into 4X4 when I pressed the button. The light would go on but no power to front wheels and no clunk from transfer case. I could hear a click in the back (computer should be working right?) but nothing from the t-case.

Anyway, I printed off the excellent shift motor info off of this site and tore into it. Sure enough the plastic bushing was totally destroyed. I replaced it with a little urethane bushing I had at home (hopefully the right thickness- I just guesstimated). I put it back together and still nothing. So I took it back apart and cleaned the connections on the brushes and winding and also tried to make sure that there wasn't a piece of the old bushing holding something up. Unfortunately I didn't apply power when apart so I could be sure the motor is turning.

When I got it back together and pressed the button, the light still went on and again I heard a click but no clunk from the t-case. I thought I heard the motor click but it was hard to tell with the engine running. I tried low side just for giggles and sure enough clunk and definately low side gearing but it still didn't seem like any power to the front wheels. (I did some tight turns on both gravel and pavement and no shuddering).

I'm kind-of stumped. I don't know if its still a shift motor issue (by the way I forgot to say that I made a match mark and the cover is in the same place it was before) or if I have a hub problem or t-case issue. At this point I'm just grasping at straws so hopefully one of you might be able to help me out.

Thanks,

Bnz 41

 

[IZwack]

I would definitely check the hubs next since they are thats the easier and cheaper to replace. If those are working okay, then you can move on to the transfer case itself.

 

[pugsy]

Sounds like one or both of the auto hubs are bad. Even if one is bad, you won't get power to the other wheel as it's an open diff. The T-case doesn't clunk when going into 4x4, only when going into 4 lo. If the lights come on and you hear the clicking from the back, then the t-case motor is working fine and the problem lies with the hubs.
I had the same issue, and you can check to see which hub is bad or if both are, but jacking up one side of the front end and turn the front drive shaft to see if the hub engages and the wheel starts turning, if it doesn't, then bad hub. I won't go into how to fix the hub, as it's a long winded solution, but there's threads on here on the mechanics of the autohub and how to rebuild them, or how to look for a good one as a replacement.
Hope this helps!!

 

[DeRocha]

As the others have already stated it sounds exactly like a hub problem... The easiest way to tell is to put a piece of tape on the front driveshaft, passenger's & driver's axle shafts and then take a drive.. after engaging 4x4 and driving a short distance you can inspect the tape to see if they moved... It they moved it indicates the T-Case is sending power to the front diff which would indicate one or both hubs are shot.. If so then the cheapest solution would be to replace both hubs with manual versions (search this site and you'll get lots of info).. Basically 2 new manual hubs with an install kit will be cheaper than 1 new autohub...

 

[ma96782]

Auto to Manual Hub Conversion

http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/howto_hubswap.htm


http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=147451

Aloha, Mark

 

[bnz 41]

Thanks so much for the great responses. I'll check that out and hopefully it's just like you said and I can just replace the hubs.

Thanks,

bnz 41

 

[pugsy]

bnz 41...it's not that simple for a manual conversion. I would inspect the hub assembly as well as the plastic cam pieces on the axel. If the plastic cam piece is okay, then all you have to do is pop another 'working' autohub on and you're good to go. I've picked up a couple at a scrap yard for $30 each. Just ensure that they are good and not worn down. Do a search on autohub rebuild to learn about them and what to look for.
If you convert to manuals, it's only a cheap solution if a) you have the right tools to do the job properly, and b) you actually have the time to do it. Don't get me wrong, manuals will stand up better, but the conversion is a pain in the ass, especially if all you need is say 1 used autohub that is in working condition (ie. all the other pieces on your axel are still good). Like a said, there's tonnnnns of info. on here for both manuals and autos. Get the info. you need to make an informed decision.
Good luck with it!

 

[Maniak]

I'd have to say that converting to a manual hub is one of the easiest conversions you can do to the explorer. You basically do the same thing you would do when you re-pack bearings, or replace rotors, but when you put it back together you use different parts. You put on different nuts etc.

You do need the correct tools, but they are just big sockets and a torque wrench. If you have already done brearings or rotors before then you already have the correct tool to take off your old hub parts. To put on the new nuts you do use a different sized socket, but its an easy one to find.


~Mark