Flex-A-Lite Black Magic into a 2nd gen 5.0

[Cobraguy]

There has been a lot of discussion about what electric fan will fit a 2nd gen 5.0 with the thick core radiator. Somewhere around 2000 or 2001, Ford put a thinner core, more efficient radiator in the 5.0 that allows a lot more clearance. But for the most of us, you only get 3.5" of clearance between the water pump shaft and the radiator. That severely limits your choices of fans if you want to incorporate a shroud too. There are a few double fan configurations that fit, but I wanted to avoid that if possible due to the incredibly high amp draw those can require when both fans are at full song (50 to 60 amps). Since I live in Phoenix, and the a/c goes on sometime next month and doesn't get turned off until November, the fans would be running at that heavy amp draw all the time. That would require a pretty serious upgrade to the charging system IMO. So, without resorting to a custom made shroud and fan (which is possible) I ordered in a Flex-a-lite 188 fan. This is a 180 fan without the controller and wiring since I wouldn't be using theirs anyway and it's about $60 cheaper that way.

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=FLX-188&N=700+115&autoview=sku

Even though this shroud/fan assy doesn't cover the radiator perfectly, it's not bad. Plus, I know it will fit on my 95 with a V6, so it wasn't money wasted if it doesn't fit the 5.0. One last thing before I start...Derale says they have an electric fan/shroud being developed specifically for the Explorer they want to have out by SEMA. So while that is a ways away, it's possible a really nice fitting unit is on the way.

First, remove the clutch/fan assy and shroud using the appropriate fan tool. Then I removed the fan blade from the electric fan to make it easier to work with. Then I partially installed the fan. You can see the problem:

The fan blade itself however, has a depression in it that allows for the water pump shaft to protrude about a quarter of an inch into the fan. You will see that in a later picture. You can also shim the fan motor back about an eighth to a quarter of an inch if necessary without getting it into the radiator. I didn't need to do that, so I left that alone. After measuring and observing, I decided it looked like I could make it fit and went ahead and mounted the fan. For our application, it will actually mount 90 degrees from it's intended orientation. I went to my local Ace Hardware and picked up a bunch of nylon spacers and other miscellaneous hardware I thought I could use. The fan comes with some nice aluminum brackets that have plastic coverings on them to protect the nice finish during shipping and installation. I used spacers on top and bottom to position the fan vertically where I wanted it. Here you can see a couple of the spacers I started with. I actually ended up with much narrower spacers...quarter inch I believe. But this gives you the idea.

Please note that the bottom of the shroud is identical to the top. It ended up with the exact same spacers, height, etc as the top to place the fan exactly where I wanted it.

With the fan now mounted where I wanted it, I pulled it out, installed the blade back on the fan and reinstalled it. No joy. The clip they use to hold the fan blade to the shaft was too big and hit the water pump shaft when the fan turned. So I either had to come up with another clip, or move the fan away from the water pump shaft a bit more. I really was happy with the mounting of the fan, so off came the blade to find a new way to hold the blade. I dug through my supply of E-clips, fasteners. and other assorted fastening hardware trying to find something that would work. Due to the flat side of the fan motor shaft, I was limited with what would work. An E-clip was perfect, but if it rotated, the flat side of the shaft could allow it to come off. Not good. So I decided on drilling the shaft and using a small hitch pin. I covered the motor with duct tape to keep metal filings out and drilled a small hole through the shaft for the pin. Use a good quality bit and some WD-40 as cutting oil. Go slow...the shaft is hard. When done, you will have this:

Please note you can now see the "depression" in the fan blade I was discussing earlier. See how there is a bit of room for the water pump shaft to sit in. With the smaller retention clip, I no longer have a problem hitting the water pump shaft. I also believe this clip is every bit...if not more...as secure as the clip that came with the fan.

Prior to installing the fan assy, you will need to provide a means of pulling the wires outside the shroud. Here you can see the grommet I installed. There is actually a place on the shroud you can drill for this:

That pretty well has the fan installed and ready for wiring and programming. Please also note that while the picture above shows the fan shaft above the water pump shaft, I actually installed the fan assy so the fan shaft was BELOW the water pump shaft. I didn't want the engine to torque over and hit the fan shaft. This way, that cannot happen.

 

[Cobraguy]

Here is a picture of the installed fan. It's hard to tell, but the fan shaft is below the pump shaft:

Now onto the fan controller. I decided to go with the new V3 Spal controller. Quite honestly, it is the finest constructed, highest quality controller I've seen. Seriously. Just take a look and you can't help but agree. Weather proof connections everywhere. The box itself doesn't rely on plastic clips or glues to hold it together...it is screwed and bolted so it can't leak or come apart accidentally. You also get enough wire with the harnesses for just about any application...and it's good quality wire...not aluminum junk like so many other people send out to save a penny or two...but cause you grief down the road. It will also utilize your temp sender that comes on the car for on/off/variable speed programming. I've used a couple of these in friend's cars and they work out really well. Spendy, but well worth the money. Here you can see I am installing it behind the battery. The only draw back to the way I did this is if the controller has to be removed, the inner fender must be loosened to get to the nuts behind the panel. But this way, the controller can never come loose, which can happen if you just use sheet metal screws. My nutsert tool only had aluminum nutserts...and they won't cut it.

The other relay there is for a small pusher fan I have in front of the condenser to help the a/c out in the summer. I am leaving that as is for now, but it will be controlled by the Spal controller too. I need to install a manual override switch and a status LED in the cabin yet. When I do that (probably this weekend), I'll also wire in the other fan to the controller.

The wiring involves hooking up a lead from the a/c circuit, 12V switched, 12V power supply for the fan motor, a couple of grounds, a lead to the temp sender switch, and a lead for the LED in the cabin. There is also additional wiring if you use more than one fan. Once it is all wired and ready to go, you must program the controller to turn on when you want. It will ramp up slowly using pulse width modulation, until you get to your programmed temp you want and then go to full power. It will also go full power whenever the a/c is on. I run a 195 degree thermostat, so I set my fan to first turn on at 190, then be at full power at 205. This is what Spal recommends and it makes sense...so I'll try this and see how it goes. To do this, I dug out my old OTC scan tool that is so easy to use and plugged it in so I could monitor the engine temp:

I programmed the controller using the buttons and lights on the side of the controller and called it good. I removed my brackets and trimmed them to match the radiator...top and bottom.

I buttoned everything up for now and took it out for the afternoon. So far so good. I'll have to update this when I finish wiring the switch, LED, etc this weekend, but I didn't have the parts I wanted to use, so that part had to wait. Time will tell if this is the way to go. When it's 115 outside, and this does the job, I'm going to be a happy camper!

 

[Joe Dirt]

Looking good! As an aside, the only issue we've had running the BM fans on NMRA and in the Mustang circles is the lack of a good shroud. The BM fan leaves a lot to be desired as far as cool air pickup because the chroud leaves a good portion of the radiator core uncovered, and really limits the air pickup through the entire radiator. Now, the Ex may be different as far as how it will affect the system, but just thought I'd toss it out there. I know we've had to get creative with Taurus fans, Continental fans, etc... to get really good chilling. If you end up with cooling issues, that would be the first thing I'd tackle is a good shroud.

 

[Cobraguy]

That is very true Joe. Actually, I am impressed with the quality of the shroud...but the size like you say isn't the best. That's why I mentioned Derale coming out with one late this year that should be the correct size. This doesn't cover all the radiator...but it does get quite a bit of it. If I have problems, the first thing I will do is have a custom shroud bent up for it. I just need to find me someone who can do that. If I can, I'll order one right now.

My main reason for attempting it with this fan was they said it couldn't be done due to width issues. Well, as you can see, if you take your time, it does fit. I was prepared to cut the threads off the water pump shaft if necessary...but it wasn't. Thank God because that would have taken a few cut off disks. That's the hardest metal I have seen in a long time!! I tried to pull the flange off a pump not too long ago to see what could be done. Couldn't do it. the puller kept walking on the end of the shaft. I couldn't get a drill bit to touch it to make a dimple for the puller. Not even a carbide bit.

 

[Joe Dirt]

I have to stop over at my buddy's shop tomorrow, we just put a new fan/shroud on his Mustang and the shroud covered the radiator completely- same wide-core aluminum radiator sold through Summit Racing. He paid $59 for the fan, real nice unit...

 

[Cobraguy]

UPDATE: I have about 100 miles on it so far, and although it's fairly cool out this week, the temp has been holding solid...even it stop and go traffic. And the smoothness of the engine is so noticeable it's amazing. So far so good.

 

[Joe Dirt]

cool! (pardon the pun)

 

[CDW6212R]

Very nice, a great install, and the shroud is well made obviously. I also wish that the shroud would fit better. If you had the time you could cut away the outer perimeter of that shroud and epoxy and glass it to the stock shroud.

The Explorer 95+ radiators are very efficient, they work better than any old Mustang system. That may work fine as it is. Hopefully that fan does pull plenty of air, then the shroud size is the only place to improve it.

Thanks for the water pump shaft diagnosis. That suggests that it likely could be cut shorter without what's left letting go.

 

[Cobraguy]

Don, you very well may be able to combine the two shrouds...but I believe you would run into width issues. I actually thought about trying to mount an electric fan in the factory shroud and talked to Spal about that since they have the narrow fans with the best performance. We even talked about reversing the fan in the shroud and making it a pusher, but still on the engine side of the radiator. (think about that and you will picture what I had in mind) All that is possible. But I think it would be best to have someone bend up a good metal shroud.

I think the water pump shaft will hold. I really do. But if you were really concerned about that, you could hit it with a couple of spot welds. But since it will only be turning the impeller now, there just isn't much of a load on the flange.

 

[CDW6212R]

Yes I think that we are in much better shape now then before, thanks to you.

 

[Cobraguy]

A couple of updates. First there does appear to be an improvement in mileage. I will let you know just how much after I test for a while.

Second, this Spal controller is a very trick piece. However, they do have a couple of glitches they are fixing. I have had a pusher fan on the condenser for a while now to assist with a/c in the summer here. Last weekend, I wired it in so the Spal Controller had control of that too. But I need to warn you...it appears it uses pulse width modulation for everthing...including the second fan which is either on or off and not speed controlled. The controller made my relay sing a song. I used their relay and it was quiet as a mouse. So I used the first relay to wire in the manual control switch. I also used the LED in that switch for fan status. The Spal controller will turn the LED on when the fans are on and flash codes if you have a problem. I just wired it so the switch LED did it all. Pretty slick if I do say so myself!

All in all, this is a very worthwhile project and one I highly recommend. Even if you get no mileage or performance, the smoothness and quiet you get is worth the price of admission. I'm putting one on the V6 this weekend and I expect even more dramatic results with it.

 

[CDW6212R]

Nice, and last year I was having a hard time finding a controller worthy besides the DCC.

 

[410Fortune]

oh man I want I want! I just have never been able to keep my trucks cool when in 4x4 low with an e fan.......traffic, stop and go, is fine, daily driving is fine, idle is fine, its in moab in low range crawling along at 2mph and 3000 rpm that kills it!

I wonder if this sucker would suffice? I would love to have the extra power and MPG, I know its not much, but it is some!!

 

[CDW6212R]

I never drove my SOHC with the OEM fan, so I don't know how much better the electric fan is. It is extremely quiet though, I love that. The only noise heard when it does rarely run is, the fan motor bearings have the slightest whine.

How often does that BM 188 fan run? Does it run for very long each time that it comes on?

 

[Cobraguy]

Jamie, I have never put one of my cars in the situation you are talking about...so I'm no help to you. But Derale is supposed to have a fan out the end of the year that will handle what you need by the sound of it. Might be worth the wait. Their's will be full shroud too.

Don, I have the fan programmed to start at 190 and go to high speed at 205. It ramps up speed until you hit 205 then goes full speed. It also goes full speed and turns on both fans if you engage a/c or the manual switch. I have never had the fans go to high speed yet unless I turned on the a/c or manual switch. In fact, if I didn't have the LED in the cabin, I wouldn't know it was running. Now, mind you, it's only been in the 70's and low 80's here...so it' no real test yet. But one day did hit the low 90's and it was the same. I have my fingers crossed.

 

[CDW6212R]

That sounds good. The DC controller has an "AC" circuit that will run the fan at 50% at a minimum I believe. I wired that in at first, but I didn't like the fan running most of the time. That was in February, it was cold, and the compressor runs at all times except OFF and VENT. I figured that this time I would add a switch in the compressor circuit, to control that from inside also.

 

[Afboy143]

That looks really good! I love my electric fan. I have a black magic 150 in my 4.0 SOHC and it works great. Really loud- but worth the power increase.

Best part- I sniped the fan off ebay for $110

My question is this- you said you have a fan on your AC condenser due to the heat. I live in the florida where the heat sucks as well. Where exactly did you get this ac condenser fan?

 

[Cobraguy]

An update...

I have this exact set up on both my 95 OHV V-6 and my 99 5.0. I have to say, it is one of the best things I have ever done to my vehicles. The 95 sees the greater benefit in performance because it's not working with as much to begin with. But both vehicles are smoother, quieter, and have better performance and throttle response. The 95 has seen over 1 mpg in mileage improvement. There hasn't been much improvement to the 99 in mileage...but the other improvements are so worth it. But since our temps have hit 105 a few days now, I thought I'd give you my take.

Both vehicles run plenty cool in stop and go traffic, a/c crankin', ambient temp well over 100. The temp gauge stays right where it should and the cars run between 195 and 200 in stop and go traffic. Now, here's the big plus. The a/c duct temps on the 99 have fallen at least 5 degrees. I could never get that thing to cool much below 50 degrees in stop and go traffic. Now it's 44 to 45 degrees and STAYS there. Try that in your clutch fan Explorer at 105 and sitting at a stop light for 5 minutes.

One thing to be aware of. Spal has some problems with their first run of V3 controllers. They will dump their programmed memory if you engage the a/c sense circuit and they don't display the LED correctly. I had them warranty my two (which they did without complaint) and I couldn't be happier with them. These are by far the best fan controllers I have ever seen. They are true works of art. Just the quality of the wiring and plugs you receive should let you know you are dealing with a company that believes in quality first. So make sure you get the 2nd run controller if you buy one.

If you aren't considering this mod, you should be. It's that good in my opinion. If anything happens to change my mind, I will be sure and post it here.

 

[Cobraguy]

My question is this- you said you have a fan on your AC condenser due to the heat. I live in the florida where the heat sucks as well. Where exactly did you get this ac condenser fan?

I believe it's off a late model Explorer. I can't remember for sure. I picked it up somewhere and fabbed the mounts. I have the Spal controller control it now. It only comes on when I manually turn the fans on (I never have to do that) or when the a/c is on. Quite honestly, I don't think it's helping much. The Flex-a-lite fan by itself does a great job in the 95. But I have it there, so I use it.

 

[CDW6212R]

Thanks for the update, it's good to know that it can handle the hot weather.