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Fluid change (looking for a how to) and what to buy

Rich-

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City, State
Sioux Falls SD
Year, Model & Trim Level
99 EB
99 5.0 awd EB
152K miles and this is a winter driver mostly for me
i know the previous owner, and i know none of these fluids or spark plugs have been done since he bought it at 100K miles

so sometime in the near (warmer) future i am going to be doing tranny fluid and front and rear dif. fluid change
transfer case?
i have seen the wright up on how to do the rear dif.


rear dif,--- how much fluid to purchase, and what kind would would you recommend?

auto tranny. how much to fluid is needed? not flush, drain and fill? just drop the pan and assuming the filter in in there??
and what kind of fluid?

front dif, and transfer case?
how do i go about doing the fluids in these?
also,. how much and what kind of fluid?


since i am at it, what should i get for spark plugs?

i dont have much time for researching these
i am hoping someone can hook me up with some good links, pics are a plus
 


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Rich-

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Any help?
 




Robert Nick

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I just did my 2000 Mountaineer/5.0L 2WD. The A/T took about 7 quarts of Mercon5 with the new filter. My Spark Plugs were the original Motorcraft Platinum with 131k on them. I replaced them with new Motorcraft Platinum Replacement Plugs. I used Anti-Seize on the new ones, even though the old plugs came out easily with the Splash Shields removed.
 




techieman33

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City, State
Topeka, KS
Year, Model & Trim Level
00 V8 Mountaineer
99 5.0 awd EB
152K miles and this is a winter driver mostly for me
i know the previous owner, and i know none of these fluids or spark plugs have been done since he bought it at 100K miles

so sometime in the near (warmer) future i am going to be doing tranny fluid and front and rear dif. fluid change
transfer case?
i have seen the wright up on how to do the rear dif.


rear dif,--- how much fluid to purchase, and what kind would would you recommend?

It takes about 2.5 quarts so you will need to buy 3 quarts. Check the axle code on the drivers door sticker, if it's 2 numbers you need 80w-90 gear oil, if it's D and a number you need 75w-140 gear oil and friction modifier. I recommend amsoil fluid, but any good synthetic will be fine.

auto tranny. how much to fluid is needed? not flush, drain and fill? just drop the pan and assuming the filter in in there??
and what kind of fluid?

Drop the pan, the filter is in there, there is also a rubber boot on the bell housing that you can remove to drain the torque converter, there is a drain plug in it, you just have to line it up. If your drain the converter too, you'll get out somewhere in the 10-13 quart range. I would buy a little extra and just return what you don't use. The fluid you need is Mercon V, again I reccomend amsoil but any fluid that meets the Mercon V spec will be ok.

front dif, and transfer case?
how do i go about doing the fluids in these?
also,. how much and what kind of fluid?

Transfer case also take Mercon V, so add an extra 2 quarts to your order for it. It's easy to drain, on the back of it there is a drain plug and a fill plug, both require a 3/8 ratchet drive to remove, just make sure you can get the fill plug off before you remove the drain plug (do that on the front and rear diff before you crack them too. Once it's drained replace the drain plug and fill it up on a level surface until it starts to drain back out of the fill hole just like a differential.

For the front diff you have a couple of different options, we'll start with hard one. Remove the cv axles and front drive shaft. Then there are 3 bolts holding the differential housing in place, have a floor jack under it to support the weight, it's heavy. You'll also need to watch the breather tube as it's coming down to make sure it come out with it. Open the cover and drain it like you would the rear diff, seal it up and refill with 1.5ish quarts of 80w-90 gear oil. Reccomend amsoil again, but any synthetic will be fine. If it's your first time messing with the front end I would plan on a day just for this, and having a helper will make getting the differential in and out a whole lot easier. I've had the front diff in and out several times and can do it by myself but it's not fun at all. If your good you can have it out and back in in around 2 hours plus how long it takes the rtv you use to cure.

On the easier side you can buy a pump and siphon most of the fluid out and the refill it. Or pay a shop to do it.


since i am at it, what should i get for spark plugs?

i dont have much time for researching these
i am hoping someone can hook me up with some good links, pics are a plus

Stick with motorcraft plugs and wires, rockauto.com is about the cheapest place, and there is a 5% discount for forum members, look for it in the vendor section of the forum.
 




Rich-

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wow thanks guys, this will be good info to have when i get around to doing it (might be a month) ill check Rock auto for plugs and wires
i have no idea if and when any of this service has been done
not in the last 50-60k for sure

as long as the tranny fluid is merc 5 it is all good?

best for the plugs is to pull the front tires and go through the wheel wells?
im fat, so the more room the better :D

platinum for the motorcraft plugs??
 




techieman33

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wow thanks guys, this will be good info to have when i get around to doing it (might be a month) ill check Rock auto for plugs and wires
i have no idea if and when any of this service has been done
not in the last 50-60k for sure

as long as the tranny fluid is merc 5 it is all good?

best for the plugs is to pull the front tires and go through the wheel wells?
im fat, so the more room the better :D

platinum for the motorcraft plugs??

yes to all of those questions.
 




Jason c

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2000 Limited 5.0L
Transfer case also take Mercon V, so add an extra 2 quarts to your order for it.

The glove-box book that came with mine said Mercon V ATF in the transmission and Mercon ATF in the transfer case.
 




Rich-

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great info guys, many thanks!!

motorcraft wires are spendy :(
 




mtnlovrs

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The glove-box book that came with mine said Mercon V ATF in the transmission and Mercon ATF in the transfer case.
Not only that, the "glove-box book" (better known as the "Owner's Manual") for the 1997 Explorer has contradictory information regarding what fluid to use in the tranny. On page 223, it says 13.9 quarts of Mercon V for the 2WD 4R70W transmission. But on page 226 it says "Mercon" (without the "V") for the 4R70W transmission. All Wheel Drive is never mentioned except when its refering to the transfer case. So, which fluid do I use in my '97 5.0L AWD Explorer's tranny?:scratch:
 




Jason c

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Not only that, the "glove-box book" (better known as the "Owner's Manual") for the 1997 Explorer has contradictory information regarding what fluid to use in the tranny. On page 223, it says 13.9 quarts of Mercon V for the 2WD 4R70W transmission. But on page 226 it says "Mercon" (without the "V") for the 4R70W transmission. All Wheel Drive is never mentioned except when its refering to the transfer case. So, which fluid do I use in my '97 5.0L AWD Explorer's tranny?:scratch:
According to mine, the only trans that takes regular Mercon is the 5-speed. Everything else is listed as Mercon V.
 




mtnlovrs

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I found other misprints in the Owner's Manual, I'm sure this is just one more. So, Mercon V it is... thanks!:D
 




Half-cocked

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Re. your inquiry about which plugs to use...

I just changed the plugs in my '99 5.0L V8 AWD Mounty.

The old plugs were Motorcraft platinums, installed at 102K miles. At 140K miles, my gas mileage was getting worse and starting was getting harder, sp I switched them out for Autolite double platinums (APP104's). MPG's went up substantially, although starting is still somewhat hard (but not as bad.) So, I'm very pleased with the Autolites.
 




Lizard

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Re. your inquiry about which plugs to use...

I just changed the plugs in my '99 5.0L V8 AWD Mounty.

The old plugs were Motorcraft platinums, installed at 102K miles. At 140K miles, my gas mileage was getting worse and starting was getting harder, sp I switched them out for Autolite double platinums (APP104's). MPG's went up substantially, although starting is still somewhat hard (but not as bad.) So, I'm very pleased with the Autolites.

Sorry to bring back a dead thread but this may help a future reader. The hard starting might be from loose fuel hose clamps on the fuel pump in the tank. There are several cheap "pinch" type clamps which come loose allowing gas to drain back into the tank instead of remaining in the line ready for the next start. If you juggle the key off/on several times pressurizing the lines by activating the pump, then it starts ok, then that is your problem. You can officially confirm this by hooking up a fuel pressure gauge and watching it leak down after shutting off the vehicle. Mine was at zero psi in about ten seconds. Unfortunately you have to remove the tank in order to fix this. I also replaced the two small sections of fuel hose while I was in there and used good stainless emission type clamps (not the worm screw type). Problem solved. If you have cracked fuel hoses on the pump, you must replace them with a special hose rated for submersion in fuel, (SAE 30R10), NOT regular fuel hose or you will be pulling the tank again soon to redo the job. The hose can be hard to find but I had a local mom and pop parts store order it for me. It is Gates 5/16" (8mm) Submersible Fuel Line Hose, Part # 27093 or the equivalent, but the Gates was some good stuff. Hope this helps someone. --Lizard
 




mtnlovrs

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Great tips, Lizard! Thanks.

My brother-in-law's 96 Explorer was hard to start for about two weeks before it would not start at all - it ended up being a bad fuel pump. He would try to start it and it wouldn't start, then, he'd try again and it fired right up. After it was running, it seemed just fine. For two weeks it ran this way until finally failing to start all together. He had it towed home and I came over and tested his fuel pump pressure (which was zero). He purchased a fuel pump at the parts store and I dropped the tank and replaced it for him - problem fixed.
 




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