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Flyboycoe's AWD 5.0 to 4WD Conversion

How about adding hub to unlock the front axle and driveshaft?
 



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Effort to payoff ratio seems a bit too low, for me anyway. I like being able to switch into 4wd without getting out.
 






How's the BW4406 working out now Jeff? I gave mine a first engine degreaser cleaning today, I still lack the electrical shifting modules, a front shaft, and a Sport gas tank. The driveshaft I thought I could make from my old 93 shaft and a custom AWD shaft I have. My 93 didn't have a double cardon shaft like my 91, and the yoke size looks smaller anyway.

I've been just busy, I'll get back to Evan's thread and look at the shaft he got with the DC joint. I'd like to do that also, and my custom AWD shaft will be of no use soon. Regards,
 






I just got back to the computer, sent her a PM about the t-case.

So unfortunately the 4.6L front drive shaft I picked up yesterday still does not fit (just barely tho). There's about 1/2 inch difference with the slip shaft all the way compressed.

The 4.6L shaft is 34 & 5/8" from the end of the u-joint to the end of the flange. There is 34" between my diff yoke and the t-case flange. The 5.4L shaft is a good 4" longer.

I'm wondering if it has something to do with my transmission. Do Eddie's have a different tranny? Because I had plenty of space between the t-case and the gas tank bracket and now the front driveshaft is too long. So for now you guys can ignore what I said about in needing to come from a 4.6L Just measure the distance before you go get a shaft.

I guess I'll just get this one cut down to size and suck up the cost. I'm tired of not being able to drive with 4 powered wheels.

FYI, for future readers, the front shaft for the BW4406 may need to be shortened for some trucks. Jon pointed out to me a while ago that there were some later 302 Explorers with the engine mounted farther back.

With the difference in some trucks engine location, and some with body lifts, the 4.6 front shaft isn't a sure fit. I think that these two factors are most of the reason some people have had no trouble, while others did.

It would be smart for anyone in the future to measure the length of their stock front shaft space. Measure the actual distance from the AWD flange to the pinion u-joint. Then from that it is very easy to add the difference that the BW4406 needs versus the AWD TC. I had a shaft built from those measurements, so I have the slip joint well centered. Regards,
 






That's a good point Don. My F150 shaft that Jon now has I had shortened 1.5" because after I installed my lift it was almost too long. I never thought about that until Bob said that they did move the motor back and you posted this. The driveshaft that I have now is snug, but not too long, I suspect it will work for either configuration.
 






Yes, I have researched the drive shafts several times on here. This thread has the best final details for them, your's was the original. My rear shaft is 36" from rear flange to front u-joint. Night,
 






How's the BW4406 working out now Jeff?
Wow, I have been living in a cave. Sorry it's taken me so long to reply. I love the 4406 it's working great. It's been over a year now, and about 3 major wheeling trips and it's still solid as can be.

It's interesting how different all our trucks can be sometimes, with shaft lengths, and gas tank clearance, etc. You'd think for an assembly line system they'd be a lot more similar.
 






Yes, I have researched the drive shafts several times on here. This thread has the best final details for them, your's was the original. My rear shaft is 36" from rear flange to front u-joint. Night,

The rear shaft I have (which is wrong) is 41.5" from rear flange to center of U-Joint. It's from a 4.6 Expedition. I stuck it in the car this weekend and measured and marked it. With the slip yoke pulled back one and a half inches from bottoming out, I figured it would need to be cut 4.5". That puts me at 37" from flange to center of joint. CDW...how much room do you have with your slip yoke? Are you using a stock rear Expedition shaft from a 5.4? Does it have the CV joint in it at the slip yoke?
 






Ah, I haven't begun the swap yet, I still lack a Sport gas tank. My rear shaft is supposed to be from a Navigator(marked), and it does have the big double cardon joint at the front. If I was able to use the big gas tank the DC joint would be more trouble to fit next to the tank.
 






Boy CDW...I hope I don't have any issues with the driveline clearing the tank. That would be a real pain in the butt. I have the tank clear out of the car right now, so I can't see if there's an issue or not. I was about to take my shaft in to get shortened today. Now I think I'll wait. If I need to come up with a smaller diameter shaft, that would be money wasted.

Hey...I was reading on a thread where this swap may not work with the secondary cats. Is that true? If it is, I'm dead in the water. I'll never get past the inspection.

As to your Sport tank...go to Rockauto.com. They list a brand new one for you for just under $200. That's if you can't find a used one somewhere.
 






Can you not move the factory cats a little and still pass an inspection? I know we all want to cut them out, but it shouldn't be a big deal for them if you relocated the rear two. There is plenty of room along that side for the cats, Ford just placed them in the most open spot.

I'll get s used tank, it has just been so wet here that the yard I like to go to has been too muddy to deal with.

For your rear shaft you should be able to install the tank and do the shaft last. You could test fit it close and have a good idea about the tank clearance with the DC joint. You can do that before shortening the shaft or finding another one. Regards,
 






I had issues with the t-case not clearing the inside 2nd cat. At the time I just cut it out and went to a muffler shop the next day and had them put it back in where it would fit. He made sure everything was legal before it left the shop. So I'm going to have to agree with Don that it doesn't matter where it's located, just that it's on there.
 






I sure hope that's not the case guys. If it has to be moved, I'm screwed. I can't think of a shop around here who would touch that converter. I don't have the ability to bend my own pipe, so I'm not sure what I would do.
 






Well, try it out and it has to be moved, you can alway go with the hammer approach. :hammer:
 






I've often wondered if an inspector here would catch the secondary cats being removed. After all, the primaries are still there and monitored by the rear O2 sensors. I also wonder if it would have trouble passing emissions without them.
 






Jeff, Can you tell me if the manual transfer case lever is out of the way of you access to the gas pedal? I have a 2000 explorer , also with AWD.
 






Hey...I was reading on a thread where this swap may not work with the secondary cats. Is that true? If it is, I'm dead in the water. I'll never get past the inspection.

I realize this thread is old, but it shows up in searches when people are looking for information on the swap. I installed my 4406 last night and, while I had to remove the cat pipe to install the transfer case, there is lots of room to reinstall it on my 97. Now to track down new bolts and gaskets to get it into place!
 






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