Flywheel shim when replacing clutch? | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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Flywheel shim when replacing clutch?

RangerX

Elite Ranger
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'93 Ranger XLT 4X4
Getting ready to order a new clutch and related parts on rockauto and saw these shims listed.
This will be the second clutch I put into my Ranger, the first time was about 12 years ago. I did get the flywheel resurfaced at the time.
Does a shim compensate for resurfacing?
156FF3DE-ADBF-4A19-9EB2-97FA92AB25CC.png

If so, I have no idea how much material was removed. I did not put a shim on last time, I did not know of them.
Should I put one on this time? I’m most likely going to resurface the flywheel again.
There’s many different thicknesses listed.
Can anyone clarify all this for me?
 



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No shim needed IMO
Resurface flywheel is a good idea, however depending on its condition, usually some sandpaper or scotch brite and brake cleaner will do the trick.
 






Do you think that’s what they are for though, to make up the difference in lost metal?
Do you feel the clutch movement can compensate for the fractions of metal lost in resurfacing one or two times?
Maybe I’m not clear on what a shop does when they resurface a flywheel. I assumed they milled it down a little. No?
 






Had a clutch job done on my "88 Cherokee many years ago. The flywheel was "surfaced" and the finished job exhibited a heck of a lot of freeplay. Thing is with a hydraulic system there is no way to reduce the freeplay.

20/20 hindsight I should of insisted that what ever they removed from the flywheel surface, a shim should of have been added to the crankshaft to flywheel joint.
 






Dang that stinks!!
Shim is not going to hurt anything here
ZJust so @RangerX knows I have done about 20 of these clutches, usually surface the flywheel never used a shim and I am always able to get full clutch action. I guess it depends on the flywheel thickness, how many times has the flywheel been surfaced? Usually they go two clutches then the truck gets crushed or the flywheel gets replaced.
 






410.... Just to be clear. I had full clutch action as you post BUT....the amount of freeplay (before you could feel the throw-out bearing contacting "stuff") was "excessive" (to me). No way to adjust that freeplay out.
 






copy that
The pedal feel I get it......hard to adjust with hydraulics
I have put shims (washers) behind the slave cylinder before to push it forward 1/4" or so.........worked wonders on that truck. I guess I could have shimmed the flywheel too...........

good discussion!!
 






I would put a .025 shim in there just to be safe. I always use a new flywheel when replacing the clutches in my vehicles. Expensive yes, but it brings on piece of mind that everything is back to spec and should last as long as original.
 






Do you think that’s what they are for though, to make up the difference in lost metal?
Do you feel the clutch movement can compensate for the fractions of metal lost in resurfacing one or two times?
Maybe I’m not clear on what a shop does when they resurface a flywheel. I assumed they milled it down a little. No?
Typically a flywheel is ground on a surface grinder. Grinding is a slow process that is tedious. Typically you grind just enough to return any discolored spots, and ensure the disc isn’t polished. Not much will have been removed.

The clutch shims tended to be used on mechanical clutches on older vehicles. You would sometimes get into a situation where the clutch didn’t want to release quite right. The hydraulics should be able to take up what they ground off.

It’s up to you, really. It should work just fine without it. But, an extra 25 thousands in there won’t hurt anything.
 






Good info and opinions all around! Thinking I’ll order the .025 shim, because why not, it’s under $5! Lots of time before the parts get to me, I can decide then whether to use it or not.
 






If I have a shim sitting around and had my flywheel surfaced I would run the shim
Under $5 with $800 shipping to HI right? LOL
 






Under $5 with $800 shipping to HI right? LOL
Haha, yeah! But I figure since I’m already getting a clutch kit and slave sent, just slip that slim in the box!
Rockauto gives three shipping choices, UPS, FedEx, and DHL. The first two quote at about $100, DHL shows $49.
I ve never used them for anything ever, but for half the price I’d like to. Anybody have a reason not to? Would they take twice as long or something?
 






Haha, yeah! But I figure since I’m already getting a clutch kit and slave sent, just slip that slim in the box!
Rockauto gives three shipping choices, UPS, FedEx, and DHL. The first two quote at about $100, DHL shows $49.
I ve never used them for anything ever, but for half the price I’d like to. Anybody have a reason not to? Would they take twice as long or something?
DHL isn’t the speediest. They also hand of to USPS often.
 






yes they are reliable and same speed as usps
I often get things DHL (because we order so much shi$)
 






Okay, maybe I’ll try them. Seems like it will probably take a hella long time nowadays regardless.
 






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