jtexplorer
Active Member
- Joined
- January 16, 2008
- Messages
- 60
- Reaction score
- 1
- Location
- 58503
- City, State
- Bismarck, ND
- Year, Model & Trim Level
- 1987 Bronco II
Hey everyone, I recently picked up a 2010 Explorer XLT V6. I honestly didn't even realize it had fog lights until I was changing the oil yesterday. But it really didn't make a difference when I realized I had them, because they don't work anyway.
I am good with electronics, and I think I have the issue traced back to the headlight switch, but I don't have diagrams available. So much of newer vehicles are computer-controlled that I would appreciate any first-hand experience with my problem.
Here's how my troubleshooting has gone so far:
-I put an ohmmeter across the fuse, and it is good.
-I jumped (bypassed) the relay, and the fogs turned on, so I know the bulbs are good and the wiring between the lights and the relay is all good.
-I put an ohmmeter across the normally open relay terminals as I applied power to the relay's coil terminals, and the relay activated and closed the terminals, so I know the relay is good.
-I took the headlight switch out of the dash and, using an ohmmeter, I was able to find the pin used to control the relay. I used an ohmmeter between the hot pin and the fog relay pin as I cycled the switch, and there was no change whether the switch was engaged or not. This led me to blame the switch. However, when I jumpered between the hot pin of the connector and the fog relay pin, nothing happened. I have no idea why. I think that putting 12v to the wire leading to the relay should cause the fogs to turn on. I tested resistance between the negative side of the relay coil and the negative battery post, and it showed good connectivity. I did have the headlight fuses pulled so I didn't drain my battery as I was troubleshooting. Could this have caused the foglights to not work somehow?
Tell me what I'm missing! I'm inclined to buy a new switch because it is not too expensive, and the switch is the only component in the circuit that I was unable to verify as good.
Thanks in advance for any help.
- Joe
I am good with electronics, and I think I have the issue traced back to the headlight switch, but I don't have diagrams available. So much of newer vehicles are computer-controlled that I would appreciate any first-hand experience with my problem.
Here's how my troubleshooting has gone so far:
-I put an ohmmeter across the fuse, and it is good.
-I jumped (bypassed) the relay, and the fogs turned on, so I know the bulbs are good and the wiring between the lights and the relay is all good.
-I put an ohmmeter across the normally open relay terminals as I applied power to the relay's coil terminals, and the relay activated and closed the terminals, so I know the relay is good.
-I took the headlight switch out of the dash and, using an ohmmeter, I was able to find the pin used to control the relay. I used an ohmmeter between the hot pin and the fog relay pin as I cycled the switch, and there was no change whether the switch was engaged or not. This led me to blame the switch. However, when I jumpered between the hot pin of the connector and the fog relay pin, nothing happened. I have no idea why. I think that putting 12v to the wire leading to the relay should cause the fogs to turn on. I tested resistance between the negative side of the relay coil and the negative battery post, and it showed good connectivity. I did have the headlight fuses pulled so I didn't drain my battery as I was troubleshooting. Could this have caused the foglights to not work somehow?
Tell me what I'm missing! I'm inclined to buy a new switch because it is not too expensive, and the switch is the only component in the circuit that I was unable to verify as good.
Thanks in advance for any help.
- Joe