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Follower/Rockers and building compression

tool kit?

If you pull the right (Bank 1) head you'll probably need the timing tool kit to retime the camshaft since there isn't enough room between the firewall and the right camshaft sprocket retaining bolt to insert a torque wrench with a socket.
 



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timing

That's precisely why I never wanted to pull the head. I have read the complications involved with timing the cams, and that's what worries me the most. I can always get a new head, but I know nothing about timing the cams and I especially don't want to throw more money at this just to time a damn cam. :( -DW
 






Hey StreetRod, I was reading your thread on timing and I believe you said if only one cam is "disturbed," both cams would need to be timed any ways. Does that still apply? Thanks - DW
 






what to time?

The camshaft timing procedure in the shop manual times both camshafts: first the right and second the left. Compressed valve springs put pressure on the cam lobes causing the camshaft to rotate relative to the crankshaft when not held in place.

The keyed crankshaft sprocket drives the jackshaft front sprocket via the primary chain. Only the friction between the jackshaft front hub,
JackKeep.jpg

the jackshaft to left camshaft chain sprocket,
MarkLow.jpg

and the jackshaft primary chain sprocket caused by the sprocket retaining bolt keep everything in place.
SOHCvalvetrain.JPG

If the jackshaft front sprocket retaining bolt is loosened then both camshafts must be timed.
If only the left camshaft sprocket retaining bolt is loosened then only the left camshaft must be timed.
If only the jackshaft rear sprocket retaining bolt and/or the right camshaft sprocket retaining bolt are loosened then only the right camshaft must be timed.

However, since the crankshaft rotates two revolutions for each camshaft revolution it is possible to have one camshaft timed 180 degrees off relative to the other when piston one is at TDC. You must verify that piston 1 is at TDC on the compression stroke as indicated by the offset slots in both camshafts when timing either camshaft.
cam1.jpg


Note: It is not necessary to remove the front cover when timing the camshafts. The camshafts can be timed by loosening and tightening the camshaft sprocket retaining bolts.
 






Thanks again 2000StreetRod for the excellent info. I still think a cracked head caused this - I was just waiting for water to appear in oil. Can I get your opinion on whether or not this is a crack or a casting line? I'm going to start a new thread trying to figure out how just replacing a follower would lead to oil in water. I know there was none a few weeks ago when I changed the oil hoping to get rid of the ticking noise which was actually the loose follower. Thanks! -DW
 

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head intake port

Unfortunately, I don't have any photos showing details of the head intake ports. I can't say if that is a crack or a casting line. Do you have a coolant pressure tester? I purchased one when I had a leak in my newly installed aluminum thermostat housing. Pressurizing the coolant system made it very easy to find the leak.
 






Unfortunately, I don't have any photos showing details of the head intake ports. I can't say if that is a crack or a casting line. Do you have a coolant pressure tester? I purchased one when I had a leak in my newly installed aluminum thermostat housing. Pressurizing the coolant system made it very easy to find the leak.

No, I do not have a coolant pressure tester. I just checked both intake and exhaust ports (where you can see the valves in the head) and I noticed either water, oil, or both in both of those ports - about 1/2 inch in depth. Does that offer any clues? Thanks! -DW
 






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