For Those With Timing Chain Rattle... | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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For Those With Timing Chain Rattle...

Faster Life

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MPLS
Year, Model & Trim Level
99' EB SOHC 4.0
I did some research on the Cologne V6, and its common knowledge that this engine doesn't cycle oil through itself as well as it should. I've heard timing chain rattle is common, and being that chain replacement might involve removing the engine, I looked for better alternatives.

I'm pleased to say I have almost eliminated the rattle using Lucas Oil Stabilizer. When I cold start the engine, I'll hear the rattle for a second or two, then it completely fades. I'm guessing this shows the chain wasn't receiving enough oil, and starts to click.

Anyways, It should help reduce or even remove the rattle, and you can feel better about the chain having proper lubrication.

Hope this helps someone! :)
 



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My engine is starting to make some noise. I think it is the chains rattling. I am going to have it checked out next week. What kind of price should I expect from a shop to do the repair?
 






Its hard to say. I believe AWD models have more then one chain, and the engine may need to be pulled to access one or all of the chains. This is why I'm not going to have it repaired, as the cost will be to high. I might look into replacing the chain tensioner, if it isn't too expensive. If you know it is your timing chain making the noise, I suggest trying the oil stabilizer too. I figure if it isn't making noise, it must be getting lubed properly and is working correctly...
 












The 4x4's of this vintage also had a balance shaft for some reason. Many have removed it with no problems, oil pan removal is needed to access it.
Also there a timing chain on the backside of the engine, left side. Cant see how you service that "in the ride" but I avoiding messing with these piles of junk except to swing an engine out and a new one in.
Like a northstar caddy "not serviceable"

Shoppe, corner dealy maybe $2k ? Stearship, maybe $3-4k. :thumbdwn:
 






I thought I had a timing chain rattle for two years...my mechanic put some silicone engine treatment in the oil when he did the oil change...no more rattle.

so I am wondering if it was lifter noise all that time
 






I'm pleased to say I have almost eliminated the rattle using Lucas Oil Stabilizer.

I had just the opposite experience.

I started using Lucas at about 75,000 miles and also starting hearing the chain during warm up at around 2700 RPM's. Once the engine was completely up to operating temp, it was silent.

Last couple of oil changes have been without the Lucas and the rattle has yet to show itself at those RPM's. It does have the normal 1 second start up rattle, but it's always had that noise.

My conclusion is simple. OIL is the only lubrication that should be in the crankcase, anything else is just wasted $$$ on snake oil.
 






my theory is Lucas removed buildup...which sometimes is the glue that holds stuff together. Silicone adds a coating on everything... like astroglide...

I am so glad I didnt attempt the timing chain rattle solve myself
 






AWD is also on the 4 Liter 6. I've seen all 4 wheels throw snow while not using any 4x4 settings...

Well, I'm sorry this didn't work for anyone. It did stop my chain rattle, so I figured I'd pass on the info. Lifter noise is also a good possibility, as these engines have a history of noisy lifters...
 






I have a rattling sound but mine only occurs when I am driving, not at startup. When I have been driving for a little bit I sometimes here a short rattling coming from the engine, sounds almost more like a flapping sound. It only lasts a short while then it goes away then while driving some more it rears it's ugly head again. Any idea what might be my issue?
 






AWD is also on the 4 Liter 6. I've seen all 4 wheels throw snow while not using any 4x4 settings..

My 99 4.0 is a 4x4... auto, hi, and low are the only settings. I'm pretty sure awd only came with the v8 in the 2nd gen.
 






costly repair

My engine is starting to make some noise. I think it is the chains rattling. I am going to have it checked out next week. What kind of price should I expect from a shop to do the repair?

I called my ford dealership about changing the chains and they said $2500.00 to have the chains replaced and that price was 3 years ago.
 






4.0L SOHC timing Chain Rattle options ????

I have a 2003 Sport Trac it has the 4.0L SOHC with this dreaded timing chain clatter. It has been progressively getting worse for a year. I think I have probably tried every kind of oil and lubricant under the sun. Now my valves are tapping so bad I'm to the point I am afraid to drive this truck because I'm waiting for one to come shooting out through my hood. Anyways I really like the truck and don't want to get rid of it and go through the hassle and expense of buying a new one. I am kind of torn between having the engine rebuilt or just buying a new one. I was wondering if there are any better options out there that would not require me having to change anything else (transmission,drive-train). Maybe I can convert it to flex fuel to help on gas mileage (the one thing I'm not impressed with),,newer better engine options or stick with what I have and rebuild.. and cost examples ??? sorry to ramble on thanks
 






Alright. Well lucky for yall there are TONS of threads on here about the dreaded timing chain rattle. 2000StreetRod has many posts here: http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?p=2349038
Now. If you have timing chain rattle you have options, as it says in the posts on that link, the first thing to do is your tensioners. Part numbers are in those threads. The front one take 4-5 hours to do because you MUST remove the upper intake manifold, and the litte bronze sensor in your thermostat housing that almost ALWAYS breaks. I was lucky enough to get it out in one piece. But it must come out, you don't have enough clearance to get the replacement tensioner in. Now, the FRONT tensioner cost $135 directly from FORD (you can't get it anywhere else unless you want to go on ebay). The metal compression ring cost 13 bucks. The rear tensioner is MUCH EASIER to do and only $105 (from ford again). Jack the car up, take the passenger front wheel off, and get an extension with a socket on the end and go for it. Took me literally 10 minutes from getting the wheel off to putting it back on! If you still have rattle (which I do but not bad) try using thicker oil or go synthetic. It has different properties that coat things better.
Here's the sad thing. I have done all this, AFTER doing a motor swap because the old engine was dinked from timing chain issues (260K). Now, the awd (auto 4x4) explorers have 4 chains total. One long one in the back, one going from crank to jackshaft and from jackshaft to drivers side head, and then one little guy on the bottom. There are options for doing the front, you can either take the rads and basically the whole front end of the motor apart and the lower and upper oil pan, and the intake manifold off, OR remove the motor and do it there. The rear chain you have two options, remove the motor, or drop the tranny. So you might as well just pull the motor and do it all out of the truck. If you are lucky enough to find the parts on ebay you can get them cheap. (no truck parts are cheap here in canada and shipping isnt cheap here either). Anyways. You can order the whole complete kit for $1400 bucks. Too bad that doesnt include all the gaskets you are going to need to put it all back together and the timing tool kit to do the camshaft timing. I took the other route. I bought a used engine from the auto wreckers (had 120K on it) for 800 bucks. And did a motor swap. I did all of the work myself which i guarantee saved me over 1000 bucks. Now, it would take a mechanic 8 hours minimum to remove the engine, then another 10 hours to tear the engine apart to replace all chains and put it all back together, and then 6 hours to throw the engine back in. 25 hours MINIMUM to do the whole thing at a shop, and shops are 100 buck an hour. Do the math. It's still cheaper to get a new motor and have a shop put it in. Or, do it all yourself like i did (motor swap anyways) and save yourself a TON of money. Sorry for the essay, but I figure I will share my experience. Also, if you do a motor swap, get a 4.0 sohc from a 3rd gen (2002 or later) because the timing chain problems are fixed in those motors.
 






Possibly stupid question... What would i need if i were to get a 4.0 sohc engine out of a 2002 or newer explorer.. i have a 2001 with 4.0 sohc (4x4) .... i assume you would need ecu/pcm from donor vehicle?..
 






Lucas products are junk IMO. The oil stabilizer is like snot - just a super thick, gooey oil. Nothing special about it.

It sometimes raises oil pressure but only because it flows so poorly. If it seemed to quiet your chains, I would guess your tensioners are worn out and maybe the stabilizer is preventing the tensioners from bleeding down.

The tensioners, btw, don't require engine removal to change.
 






two different lubrication approaches

There seems to be two different lubrication approaches to reducing timing chain rattle and extending camshaft timing related component life. One is to use thicker oil or additives to thicken the oil (high viscosity) in the hope of retaining lubrication of surfaces between engine starts. The other is to use thinner or easier flowing oil (low viscosity) to get oil to the surfaces as soon as possible after engine start.

I think the best approach is to use low viscosity oil (synthetic) and a pre-oiler.
 






There seems to be two different lubrication approaches to reducing timing chain rattle and extending camshaft timing related component life. One is to use thicker oil or additives to thicken the oil (high viscosity) in the hope of retaining lubrication of surfaces between engine starts. The other is to use thinner or easier flowing oil (low viscosity) to get oil to the surfaces as soon as possible after engine start.

I think the best approach is to use low viscosity oil (synthetic) and a pre-oiler.

Not sure how this fits into the arguement but since switching to a synthetic oil mine has gotten quieter. Also I know its time to change oil when the chain starts to rattle a little louder. A fresh oil change always seems to quiet mine down. Take 4k miles or so until it starts to get a little noisy again.
 






I have had the death rattle since 2006 and have been using STP oil treatment. I just use 1/2 a bottle every oil change. So far so good, and it quieted it down the rattle big time.
 



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Old thread and I realize this is in the 2nd generation section but I've had the rattle since the 60,000 mile mark in my 2002, it would do it cold or warm under a load from 1700-2100 rpm all the time. Yesterday at 192,308 I went with synthetic blend oil for the first time ever and the sound is completely gone, Only took me 130,000 miles to try it.
 






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