Ford 9" for off-road use | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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Ford 9" for off-road use

IZwack

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1998 Ford Explorer
I've been debating on the "proper" rear axle for a few days now and currently I'm swaying between the D60 and the Ford-9 inch.

So for those running the Ford-9, how has this stood up to the trails?

I know its a very strong axle so I'm not really worried about strength as much as I am worried about hitting the driveshaft on rocks, logs or whatever else (due to the lower pinion compared to the Dana axles or even the 8.8).

Of course there are aftermarket housings and third members our there that are "high pinion". But most are expensive and I dont think the Currie's CHP allows for a 5.13 ratio (pinion support gets in the way).
 



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if it was me... unless i was putting a dana 60 up front to match my 60 rear, i'd just go with the 9"
 






Well cost wise, the two will be about the same (with Detroit lockers). The D60 would cost only about $250 more than the 9" as I found a complete 31 splined D60 for ~$60 (needs a carrier change and regear).

The other big plus for the 9" is its lighter and easier to move around.
 






IZwack said:
Well cost wise, the two will be about the same (with Detroit lockers). The D60 would cost only about $250 more than the 9" as I found a complete 31 splined D60 for ~$60 (needs a carrier change and regear).

The other big plus for the 9" is its lighter and easier to move around.

that would be a 30 spline d60 there is no 31 spline. the currie HP 9" is useless. its 8.8 gears. HI9 is the only company that makes a TRUE HP 9".

http://www.truehi9.com/

the plus of the 60 is going to be greater strength, and better bearings, and its a FF.
 






redranger.. ur swaying me towards the 60!!! yarp! :D
 






if you lived closer you could have my free one...
 






Highly unlikely, but does this free one have a locker in it? :D Cauz I'll drive up there tomorrow if it did, ok well not tomorrow, maybe Wednesday.

One downside to the 60 is the lockers are a tad bit more expensive :o
 






the 9" is only a slight upgrade strength wise from the 8.8.
the 9" has an off road friendly housing for sure, MOST desert trucks run a 9" of some sort.

You want ground clearance why not look at Toyota rear ends?
 






410Fortune said:
You want ground clearance why not look at Toyota rear ends?
Interesting! I didnt think of the yota rear ends. But weren't they on par with the 8.8 (ring gear diam is about the same i think).

redranger4.0, have you had driveshaft clearance problems with your 9" mounted to those 36"s?
 






410Fortune said:
the 9" is only a slight upgrade strength wise from the 8.8.
the 9" has an off road friendly housing for sure, MOST desert trucks run a 9" of some sort.

You want ground clearance why not look at Toyota rear ends?

9" housings are actually very week compared to other axles. they are mostly stamped sheetmetal. id be willing to bet every guy who runs one in the desert is trussed
 






redranger4.0 said:
9" housings are actually very week compared to other axles. they are mostly stamped sheetmetal. id be willing to bet every guy who runs one in the desert is trussed
I am planning on trussing 'cauz eventually I'm going to go to a triangualated 4link (once the quirks and bugs are worked out of the front)

I'm just worried about the driveshaft hitting. But I guess in the worst situation, I could just carry a spare driveshaft. Or even sleeve the driveshaft with another layer of steel <- ehehe.
 






IZwack said:
I am planning on trussing 'cauz eventually I'm going to go to a triangualated 4link (once the quirks and bugs are worked out of the front)

I'm just worried about the driveshaft hitting. But I guess in the worst situation, I could just carry a spare driveshaft. Or even sleeve the driveshaft with another layer of steel <- ehehe.

im building a 44/9" combo right now. i also have a front 60/70 combo sitting in my garage. i wish i would have just built the 60/70 combo instead of the 44/9"
 






so redranger4.0, willing to let go of that 9" :D ? since it seems as if you're not satisfied with it ;)
 






at the end of this summer maybe. but its going to be worth a pretty $$. Currie housing Alloy shafts Dutchman brakes, new 3rd
 






wow thats a strong combo.

well I need to get this thing running in 2 months so i'm going to shimmy a rear end up together.
 






I say go with the 60, specially with 38's. you wont have to worry about it and you get the higher pinion and stronger housing, shafts and bearings
 






If you are running 38's definately go with the 60 rear. If it were mine I would go with a GM 14 bolt any day over the 60 but that is a whole 'nother topic. IMO I would run the 9" with up to a 36" tire. 37" or bigger I would go with a 60 (or 14bolt) both for diff clearence and strength reasons.
 






Brian1 said:
If you are running 38's definately go with the 60 rear. If it were mine I would go with a GM 14 bolt any day over the 60 but that is a whole 'nother topic. IMO I would run the 9" with up to a 36" tire. 37" or bigger I would go with a 60 (or 14bolt) both for diff clearence and strength reasons.

14bolt is a rock anchor and it doesnt have the ratios he wants. only has 5.38 as the highest and those are hard to get.
 






I guess I'll go with the 60. A tad bit more expensive but from whats been said, it seems to be the better axle in the long run.
 



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I wouldnt worry about the driveshaft. Just tube it with some 3/16" tubing. After smashing my stock shaft in my 86 ranger I had it re tubed with 3/16 wall tubing. I hit it many times and nver had a problem. When I install my doubler I will be going with the same thick wall tubing.
 






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