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Ford ECM/ECU Question

FirstExplorer

Well-Known Member
Joined
May 14, 2010
Messages
109
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17
City, State
Flower Mound, Texas
Year, Model & Trim Level
1991 XLT 4WD
I am the original owner of my 1991 Ford Explorer XLT 4X4. It has been one of the best vehicles I have owned, and I have kept it very well maintained.

But, I have searched through this forum and have seen numerous owners with similar poor performance, low mileage, pinging and knocking under load, needing premium gas, etc. The threads usually direct the troubleshooting to 5-6 areas which usually do not correct the problem.

Question for the experts:
Could all these problems be traced to a bad Engine Control Module (ECM)? This little primitive computer regulates all the problem areas I mentioned. I have found references on the internet that the early ECMs were junk, and that there are good replacements that even have better chips, memory, and performance tweeks.

The following is a lot to read, but I cut and pasted a passage from and ECM supplier website, and I think it explains it pretty well:

ECU ECM PCM

The Electronic Control Unit (ECU), Electronic Control Module (ECM), Power Control Module (PCM)

The ECM/ECU controls the fuel injection system, ignition timing, and the idle speed control system. When needed for power transfer or safety measures, the ECM/ECU also interrupts the operation of the air conditioning and initiates idle surge when sensing braking in automatic transmission vehicles. ECM's/ECUs control EGR systems and initiates voltage reference signal power to the fuel pump (through the control relay) for start up. The basic model ECM/ECU consists of an 8-bit microprocessor, random access memory (RAM), read only memory (ROM), and an input/output interface.

Also referred to as the "BRAIN BOX" the ECM/ECU is the central processor unit of the vehicles ignition, power and electrical systems. Based on information from the input sensors (crank angle (when applicable), throttle position, engine coolant temperature, air flow, etc.), the ECM/ECU determines optimum settings for the output actuators (ignition timing, injection, idle speed, etc.).

ECM FAILURE: FACT OR FICTION

If you have a car manufactured between 1985-2002, OBD-I and OBD-II, your engine management system ECM(s) and body control computers may have a higher propensity for failure and may fail eventually. This is likely due to several factors including the mounting and location of the units, and a critical implementation and utilization of internal components that have proved to have inherent intolerance to heat. "Normal" usage included the mounting location of the units which often meant the components in over 100F temperature sometimes. The current through the lands of the units also led to many problems that have been occurring separately and some indirectly affecting other controllers with adverse affects. Some components often will intermittently loose there ability to function properly such as storing a voltage charge for future use or providing a clean voltage signal for proper operation. Eventually they can lead to other fatal malfunctions of other components including injectors, coils, actuators which can in turn be another diagnostic nightmare. These components were used by the millions in hundreds of applications by among others: Mitsubishi, Lexus, Toyota, Honda, Acura, Ford, OKI, Kefico, Cummins, Detroit Diesel, Allison & CAT in the manufacturing of their ECMs.

So the fact is there is a huge problem, BUT it can and must be addressed or you could be one of millions who have been paying too much for diagnosis & repair or living with a malfunctioning vehicle engine management system and or engine diagnostic system. All the units must be retrofitted with higher rated and stronger components and the damage must be cleaned and continuity and flow restored and sometimes reprogramming must be done. Without this the ECU can not function at optimum level for fuel and emission factors, and the main diagnostic tool, the ECU cannot be relied on for diagnostic data.
 



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I would say that if your truck runs ok without a check engine light, then chances are the PCM is fine. I think you would be having terrible performance problems like the truck not pulling itself at all or completely unregulated engine/powertrain functions.

One of the most common pinging causes is the lower intake manifold bolts loosening. I'm sure you saw this while searching.

What is your mileage approx? How do you drive the truck? How many miles are on it? Auto or manual? Tire pressure? Do you tow with it?

It could be that the engine is just worn out. My 93 XLT has about 230,000 miles on it. I have to use premium gas in it and it still pings. It doesn't get great MPGs either, maybe 12-15. My 92 Sport, however only has 62,000 on it and it runs perfect, gets about 19-22 on the highway, and both of them are 2WD with the sport being a manual.

It just depends on what kind of poor performance you mean. A little more specific info would be helpful...
 






My 94 gets 19 mpg hwy and about 14 mpg around town.I have 139,000 on it with the stock 235/75/15's and 373's,auto 4x4.
I'm not saying this is a cure all but I also run a can of BG44K through it twice a year and just replaced the original spark plug wires.I run 35psi in my tires.:D
 






Thanks for the feedback, and the more I hunt around on the net for info on ECMs, I think you are right. I was curious because just think about it, a 20 year old computer? Components wear out, pins quit working, chips partially fail, RAM/ROM could fail. With all the performance problems in these older trucks controlled by ancient computers, could it be the brain-box going flaky?? What about ECM program updates or getting the thing "re-chipped"?

After all, the ECM controls:
Air/Fuel Ratio, Idle Air Control Operation,
Cooling System Fan Operation, Idle Speed,
Early Fuel Evaporation System, Ignition Timing,
EGR-Emission Control System, Torque Converter, Clutch Engagement,
Fuel Delivery, A/C Cooling Fan Controller, Mixture Control Solenoid,
EGR Shut-Off Solenoid, Oxygen Feedback Solenoid,
Fuel Injectors Purge control Solenoid,
Fuel Pump Relay, Throttle Air Bypass Valve,
Idle Air Control Motor, Torque Converter, Clutch Solenoid


My mechanic says, if the check engine light goes through its self-test at start-up, then the ECM is "talking" to all these sensors:
A/C Compressor Clutch Signal, Detonation Sensor, Oxygen Sensor,
A/C "On" Switch, EGR Valve Position Sensor, Park Neutral Switch,
Air Charge Temperature Sensor, Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor, Power Steering Switch,
Barometric Pressure Sensor, Hall Effect Pick-Up Assembly, Throttle Positon Sensor,
Brake On/Off Switch, High Gear Switch, Vacuum Sensor,
Camshaft Position Sensor, Manifold Absolute Pressure Sensor, Vehicle Speed Sensor,
Coolant Temperature Sensor, Manifold Air Temperature Sensor,
Crankshaft Position Sensor, Mass Airflow Sensor


As to your comment about the truck not running at all after replacement: If the ECM is replaced, most rebuilt or OEM NOS are un-programmed. But if the chip was programmed with the vehicle VIN, then why would it not run?

BTW, I have 120,000 miles, regular maintenence, oil change every 3000, new set of nitrogen filled Michelin Latitudes, no towing, and I drive it like Grandpa headin' into the feed store.
 






I didn't say it wouldn't help at all, I just don't think that is where the problem lays. Most of the time those electrical components either work or they don't. Try it and tell us what happens. I would be curious to know.

Another thing that can happen is; if you drive all the time in the city or at slow speeds with very seldomly using the vehicle on the highway, you can build up carbon deposits in the combustion chambers and on the valves. This can lead to pinging and sometimes dieseling (run-on) in older cars with carburaters. This is a condition where the engine will continue to run when the ignition is switched off because of the red hot carbon acting like a glow plug. It also changes the way the air/fuel charge finds its way to the combustion chamber by blocking the flow or disrupting the speed of the air intake and the action of the valves. This can be the source of the lack of power.

It is good practice to run any vehicle at 55 mph or above at least 50 consistent miles a week. This burns any condensation out of the oil and gets the engine hot enough to keep carbon from building up. Even though the thermostat may open when running a vehicle, the motor is not really properly warmed up until the heat saturates all the engine components, from the oil pan to the intake runners.
 






Did the ECM supplier have any useful diagnostic information, or do they limit themselves to "a bad PCM can explain many different driveability issues"?

Most of the "by the book" diagnostic information I see for diagnosing a bad PCM uses a "process of elimination" approach. Namely, thoroughly check all other components that could cause the code/symptom. If all other components check out ok, then the replace the PCM.

Some people sidestep this and use a "guess and check" method for a bad PCM. Namely, PCM supplier X suggests that a bad PCM might explain my symptoms, so I'll buy a new PCM and see if that fixes it.

Do they offer any tips for determining the PCM is bad before replacing it?
 






Mr. Shorty asked: Do they offer any tips for determining the PCM is bad before replacing it?

Check out this link that I just found in reference to your question.

http://www.ecmtogo.com/ECMTips2.htm

(I have nothing to do with these guys, but the info is interesting)

This is yet another site that claims these vintage ECMs are prone to fail and then you begin chasing symptoms as a result. I am also interested in ECM upgrades for better performance, torque, shifting, governors, etc. Supposedly, there were manufacture uploads that should have been done through Ford Dealership maintenance. I don't know if those were ever done on my truck when I was taking it to the "Stealer", but I once owned a BMW
Z3 and had the ECM "chipped", or a new program burned into the existing chip. The performance afterwards was light-your-hair-onfire bodaciously good!
Do you think the Explorer could be improved this way?
 






The ECM on the 1st gen doesn't control that much. It does control the 3/4 and the converter lockup, but the transmission is mostly hydraulic. The ecm can keep it out of 4th and out of OD. Its not like a current generation ECM where it controls everything and can give you or hide from you, all kinds of power.

Also, the 1991 X is a batch fire injector when the 1994 (I think it switched in 1993) is sequential. I haven't personally verified that. That is what I have read.

Every time I've seen an ECM go bad you would know it.. the engine wouldn't run right. I've never seen one go a little bad where mileage would just drop but anything is possible.

~Mark
 






Have you guys ever heard of the ECM not relearning everything after it's been reset? I have a 1996 Explorer 2WD with 171,000 miles. I just took it to get smogged (California) and everything passed except the computer wouldn't relearn. His scanner showed this and my Scan Gauge II also showed this. Do you think this is a ECM failure? The truck runs well even with this issue.
 






Did the ECM supplier have any useful diagnostic information, or do they limit themselves to "a bad PCM can explain many different driveability issues"?

Most of the "by the book" diagnostic information I see for diagnosing a bad PCM uses a "process of elimination" approach. Namely, thoroughly check all other components that could cause the code/symptom. If all other components check out ok, then the replace the PCM.

Some people sidestep this and use a "guess and check" method for a bad PCM. Namely, PCM supplier X suggests that a bad PCM might explain my symptoms, so I'll buy a new PCM and see if that fixes it.

Do they offer any tips for determining the PCM is bad before replacing it?
Can anyone help me with info about online retailers before I buy refurbished ECM
 






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