Ford Explorer 92 XLT with a code 629.

[Auto2510]

Hello,

while I was abroad I asked a friend to buy me a 4WD car. That was most probably not the best idea I ever had but now I can't change it anymore.
He got me a Ford Explorer 92 XLT. The speedometer is showing 40000 miles. I assume that I have to add 200000 miles to have the right milage. The car still runs but it has some problems. The most severe problem is the strange behavior at low speed (around 35 m/h). At that speed the car is jerking. I did take the car to a repair shop where a scan was done. The error code is 629 which means that the torque converter clutch solenoid has a problem. I would like to replace that. Thus, my question is: Where to get the part from and how to get to the part? I found some hints already on this website.
I called Ford and I got told that the part which has to be replaced would be $ 280. I cannot imagine that a simple solenoid should be that expensive. Does anyone know what Ford would replace in case I would bring the car to Ford?

Thanks for any help with the problem described

 

[Sams01XplrSprt]

welcome auto

 

[BrooklynBay]

Welcome to this forum! I've moved your thread to the transmission section. You have to remove the valve body to replace the solenoid. The solenoid is not very expensive. The dealer charges you their hourly rate plus parts so it adds up. You will need the gasket, solenoid, fluid, and a 1/4" drive In/Lb torque wrench for the valve body bolts. First check the internal wiring harness before you do this. It might just be a bad connection, and not the actual solenoid. The solenoid has 25-40 ohms. WWW.TransmissionPartsUSA.Com has the parts for this repair.

 

[Auto2510]

Replacing TCC solenoid in 92 Explorer XLT

Hi,

Thanks for your answer. During my search for advice on the internet, I did get to this website, and I did read a thread you had posted exactly on this issue. That was the main reason for me to join this forum.

In that thread you had mentioned the company Transmission Parts USA and I had called the company this morning to get the solenoid (23391A). Ford has faxed me a blow up sketch of the area of the transmission where the solenoid is located.

I have exchanged the transmission fluid and the filter some time ago. Thus, the removal of the pan will not be a problem. I also have the wrench. A year ago I had to replace the main gasket of the engine. In order to do that correctly I needed this torque wrench.

I am a little bit concerned about the next step. According to Ford Flagstaff there is only one technician who does this kind of a repair. It seems that a lot of things can go wrong once you have taken off the bolts. Do you have a kind of step by step description how to do it? And - what is to be watched for when taking out the valve body? Are there any spring driven parts which may fall out during the removal?
At the time I replaced the filter in the transmission I did not see any wire harness. Where exactly is this wire harness be located?

I really appreciate it very much that you took the time to respond.

Wulf

 

[BrooklynBay]

There is a 3 wire harness connected to the 2 solenoids. The sticky thread in the transmission section called the A4LD valve body rebuild diary has a step by step procedure. Nothing will fall out just as long as you don't open the valve body.

 

[Auto2510]

removal of the valve body

Hi,

I did read the thread recommended; however there is no mentioning how this part was removed. The series of threads are dealing with improvements to the configuration to get a better performance. I don't want to do that. I am satisfied if the car is again running smoothly at all speeds.
As far as I figured there are some bolts which have to be taken out. Then the valve body will slide down? The next step will be to disconnect the wire harness. As you wrote there is nothing what will fall out. How is the TCC valve clamped to the valve body? Is there any other gasket needed as the one for the pan?

Thanks for your support

Wulf

 

[BrooklynBay]

Disconnect the electrical connections, shift linkage link, and the bolts. The valve body will come out. This diagram should help you:

 

[Auto2510]

removal of the valve body

Hi,

thanks for the sketch of the valve body; I am glad that I have not to deal with all those parts. If I understood your mails right all those potential "pop-outs" will stay in the valve body when I take it out. I do not want to bother you but do you have a picture of what I am going to see once I have taken off the pan and the filter? At the time I replaced the filter I did not look what is above the filter. Thus, I have no idea what I am going to see.

I really appreciate it very much that you help me.

Wulf

 

[BrooklynBay]

This picture is from Glacier991's photo gallery:

 

[Auto2510]

removal of the valve body

Thank you very much for your help; I ordered yesterday the solenoid. I guess it will arrive at my place end of next week. Thus, I will doing the replacement at the weekend.
Once again thank you very much for your help. Without all this information I would not have dared to attack this task

Wulf

 

[Auto2510]

removal of the valve body

Hi,

Since you are an expert on Ford Explorers I am forwarding my recent problem to you.

I experienced for the second time within two months what is called "vapor locking". I assume that you know what that is. I was driving yesterday in northern Arizona. The temperature was around 100 degrees F. Actually, it felt much hotter. I was going 50 m/h. All of a sudden the engine died. Since I had this experience just a couple of weeks ago in St. George, Ut, I knew what was happening.
I had given the advice by someone with a different car to insulate the fuel line in order to prevent that from happening but the fuel line of this Explorer is partly inside the frame of the car thus that cannot be done. Fortunately, a pickup stopped and the driver asked me whether he could help me. I asked him whether he had some extra water. He had ice-cold water in a cooling box. I poured that over the fuel line and the car started again. The first time I experienced this vapor locking I called Ford. The service person told me that there is something with my fuel line and that due to that the fuel didn't get to the injectors. Whatever it was it was caused by the high temperature. I heard from another source that there might be water in the tank/fuel line system and that the water evaporated. Do you have a clue what is really causing this vapor locking? And, of course, how I can prevent that from happening again.

Greetings
Wulf

 

[BrooklynBay]

Dump some dry gas, and fuel injector cleaner into it. You might have moisture in the gas. Did you get gas from a station that you've never been to before?

 

[Auto2510]

Hi,

thanks for the tip; I will get dry gas and injection cleaner today.

Greetings

Wulf

 

[Auto2510]

exchange of the solenoid causing this error message 629

Hi,

I hope that you will have a nice labor day weekend.

The solenoid arrived yesterday late afternoon. Today, I took the pan off the transmission to access the valve body. Currently the transmission fluid is still dropping off; thus I didn't do anything there yet. If there isn't anything on top of the valve body what keeps the solenoid in place I actually can get easily to the solenoid. Since you are familiar with this part of the transmission my question is: Do I have to take the valve body out in order to replace the solenoid?

Greetings,
Wulf

 

[Auto2510]

solenoid measurement

Hi,

most of the fluid is out by now; I did resistance measurements on both solenoids; the one in question has 30 Ohm; the other one has 28 Ohm. The "clutch converter modulator" solenoid has a loose package; with other words the part the connections are on is loose but the Ohm reading is stable. Is the solenoid supply voltage the battery voltage or is it different? I disconnected the battery. In oder to test the electrical connection I should know what voltage to expect. And - most importantly - what else could be the problem?

Greetings

Wulf

 

[BrooklynBay]

You could remove the solenoid, and the do the "click test". Apply 12 volts from a booster pack, and listen for a click. Spray some WD-40 or brake cleaner into the front of it while applying power, and repeat the test without applying power. This solenoid is a basic on/off valve. It could get clogged even though the coil moves the internal mechanism.

 

[Auto2510]

removal of the valve body

Hi,

I hope that I am not bothering you too much.

I wanted to take the solenoid out but then I realized that I have to take out the complete body because the solenoid is secured with a bar.
Taking out the valve body brings up some questions:
1: does the gasket between the valve body and whatever is above it have to be replaced?
2: how do I disconnect the shift mechanism from the valve body?
3: are all those screws the same length otherwise I have to mark them

Greetings

Wulf

 

[Auto2510]

removal of the valve body

Hi,

I guess the crucial task is the disconnection of the shift mechanism. The other issue will be that I have to lower the valve body without tilting it - otherwise those locking mechanism may fall out and that then will cause a real problem. Is that right?

Greetings
Wulf

 

[BrooklynBay]

The bolts are different lengths. You would have to replace the gasket, and retorque the bolts once they are put back into place.

 

[Auto2510]

rempval of the valve body

Hi,

do you have a hint for me how to disconnect the shift mechanism? Should I do it inside the transmission housing or outside of it?

Greetings
Wulf