Ford Explorer: Are Your Rear Brakes Dragging... Most Likely Yes!

[2000GM]

I have an appointment at the dealer on Wednesday to drop it off. I want them to fix it now, being under warranty and sold as a Certified Pre-owned just 5,000 miles ago. After that, I'll just do the occasional clean and lube myself. It's a damn shame that doing something like this is basically a routine maintenance job.

 

[Lethal-Wombat]

NEW UPDATE !!
Rear brakes have started DRAGGING AGAIN !! Im assuming it will be the LEFT CALIPER this time, even though i was told ALL other brakes were fine ....

Anyone else had their brakes fixed, only to have them "go" again ?

**NEW NEW UPDATE**

Gave up !! BUT did buy a NEW 2016 Explorer .... and OMG, the DIFFERENCE in the brakes is unbelievable ...........

Sooooooooooo smooth, NO drag whatsoever AND another big difference that i didnt even realise .... NO vibration in the steering wheel !!!!!! I hadnt noticed the small vibration while driving the 2013 until driving the 2016. Something "felt" different but i couldnt pinpoint it till just yesterday ......

In hindsight .. i have a feeling there was something wrong with the brakes or possibly worse with the 2013 from the day i drove it off the lot .. this 2016 is a suuuuuuuper smoooooooooth beauty !!
(So far, and i hope i havnt just jinxed myself)

 

[chartquist]

So, do we know if there have been any improvements made to the 2016s that will reduce or eliminate this brake drag issue, or are the parts exactly the same as those that have failed in the past?

[MENTION=230485]Lethal-Wombat[/MENTION] congrats on your new 2016! Loving my 2016 Sport so far, but now slightly paranoid about my rear brakes.

 

[2000GM]

For what it's worth, on RockAuto.com, the loaded calipers are the same part number for 2013 and 2016. So my guess is no, no changes to the setup. I didn't look for different numbers on the small bits, like caliper pins, though.

Just to update my own situation, the dealer took care of the clean & lube for free under the warranty. That's good, but I hate that this is going to have to be done on a regular basis.

 

[BWard2013Limited]

use the right tool

Ah, the caliper did not want to compress, guess it is toast to. Thanks Ford.

The piston needs to be rotated

 

[ocracokeBound]

The piston needs to be rotated

Was rotating it.

 

[2013_Kodiak]

On mine I had to rotate the piston many times back and forth before it would actually compress and then it was very slight at first and finally began to compress after working at it for a while. I just used a pair of vice grips for mine since I didn't have a tool specific to the task but it worked eventually.

It took a lot of pressure to get them to compress.

 

[TheBigYahi]

My 2014 XLT with 33k miles has seriously uneven wear on the rears, both sides. In both cases the inside pad is worn down to about 3mm while the outside has at least double that left. The fronts are wearing evenly and honestly look brand new.

I got under the thing the other day and on both inside rotor faces the outer 1/2" is rusty and unswept by the pads where the outside has only a 1/8" lip.

I'm bringing it in on 5/18 but the service manager essentially told me over the phone that there's no chance it will be covered. He agreed to look at it and give me a loaner, so I'll be crossing my fingers that they go to bat for me on warranty coverage.

 

[jdhr]

I just watched the video and the "fix" makes no sense to me. I am NOT suggesting that there is not a problem with the rear calipers, pads etc but as per the video the use of grease in the area behind the clips cannot possibly work. The issue as described is that the pads are not releasing and they are dragging. The shiny metal clips once installed do not move, they are locked into place. While grease on the surface behind the clips would help prevent corrosion on the caliper holder how can it have effect on the front of the clip where the tabs from the pads slide?

hi to all
the grease under the clips is to prevent rust jacking. what I mean by that is rust will start under the clips and raise them up and then it tightens the brake pads in the bracket then the brake pads stick and start dragging because the brake pads will stick in the bracket and not loosen up after the brakes are released.

 

[summerbreak]

I've had my calipers ruin many brake pads and routers in my 2011 Ford Explorer. I've had so many now that I can return my car before the part warranty wears out and have it all replaced again. I figured out that they can measure the heat of the wheel to see if it is sticking. They keep replacing it with the same part and the same problem continues I was lucky to buy an extended warranty, but I've still had to pay deductibles. My latest visit today the service department paid for the replacement in full because the last one wore out close to warranty. Smoking breaks, squealing sounds from my car, ruined brake pads and routers, less efficiency overall in my vehicle, visits to the service department which lower my value on carfax, yep it's time to build my case. Time to contact that lawyer who took on Honda for me.

 

[suvguy]

just had rear pads and rotors replaced at 58k miles. local driving - no issues - but after a 1/2 hour on the interstate there is a grinding sound when i get off the interstate and slow down to < 30 MPH - left rear. Stops when i apply the brakes. After it sits for a bit, sound goes away. Service center that replaced rotors and pads tells me everything is working perfectly - including the calipers - no seizing or rust and lubricated. It's happened twice to us in two days - but he cannot replicate it. has anyone else experienced this? i have had dragging issue on that side before but previous cleaning stopped the issue.

 

[jtversky]

I just had my rear passenger side caliper seize on me while driving home from NYC Sunday (I live outside DC). After taking my car to the dealer, I was told that the caliper was bad and would be covered by my Extended Warranty, but that I would be responsible for pads and rotors which doesn't make sense to me. I just messaged Customer Service - i hope there's something they can do!

 

[MJN]

I just had my rear passenger side caliper seize on me while driving home from NYC Sunday (I live outside DC). After taking my car to the dealer, I was told that the caliper was bad and would be covered by my Extended Warranty, but that I would be responsible for pads and rotors which doesn't make sense to me. I just messaged Customer Service - i hope there's something they can do!

Sounds like a lot of BS for the dealer, I have come to conclusion that as an owner of this vehicle, you have to replace the rear brakes pads/rotors every two years if you don't want to take any chances. If I was just driving around town, I would not be too concerned but if your travelling on long trips, you just basically don't want the headache. I can change rear pads and rotors for under $200 myself, and I learned to do it myself because I refused to fork out $700 bucks every 2 years to a dealer to do it.

 

[peterk9]

I just had my rear passenger side caliper seize on me while driving home from NYC Sunday (I live outside DC). After taking my car to the dealer, I was told that the caliper was bad and would be covered by my Extended Warranty, but that I would be responsible for pads and rotors which doesn't make sense to me. I just messaged Customer Service - i hope there's something they can do!

Shouldn't have to pay for the pads if they meet the set out criteria; http://www.explorerforum.com/forums...ft-brakepad-replacements-to-customers.412591/

Peter

 

[jtversky]

Shouldn't have to pay for the pads if they meet the set out criteria; http://www.explorerforum.com/forums...ft-brakepad-replacements-to-customers.412591/

Peter

Peter - thanks. I read that thread as well, though I suspect that it may not apply to me, as I bought my car CPO and am the 2nd owner. Regardless, if the pad/rotor were damaged as a result of the caliper seizing, those parts should be covered by the warranty claim. Deysha responded back to me via PM and has escalated the issue, so hopefully an agreeable resolution can be reached without much issue.

 

[schneid32]

I'm in the same boat as a lot of folks on this thread. Just hit 35K and the Ex has been at the dealer numerous times for brake-related issues. I had a caliper seize and they were able to repair it and resurface the rotor. No pads though and the dealer wanted to gouge me on the job. Took it back in last week for another issue and mentioned the brake squeel. They acknowledged the issue and the fact that I had a caliper issue a few months back but still wanted to get me to pay for the pads (about $250 installed, rears). I ended up buying replacement pads for the rear on Amazon...going to tackle this job myself for $35.

I'm upset with the vehicle but I'm also not letting it affect my personal/daily life LOL. Just going to avoid Ford next time around.

 

[bigdude2468]

I was changing the front pads on our 2014 XLT and realized that I have heavy duty brakes, must come with the towing package. The pads and clips are quite a bit different and it looks like the rear are also different. I have been checking the rears and cleaning the area where the clips sits twice a year. To be honest they have always looked pretty good even after winters in a very snowing climate with a lot of salt on the roads. I am wondering if the problem is isolated to the standard brakes? I have read that the rear brakes generally wear out before the front but that is not the case with mine. They both are ok with the front showing maybe 30% more wear than the rear. Has anyone had the rear dragging issue specifically with the heavy duty brakes?

 

[schneid32]

I purchased the Wagner ThermoQuest QC1377 for my 2014 Base rear brakes - are these going to be okay? I haven't installed yet.

 

[peterk9]

I was changing the front pads on our 2014 XLT and realized that I have heavy duty brakes, must come with the towing package. The pads and clips are quite a bit different and it looks like the rear are also different. I have been checking the rears and cleaning the area where the clips sits twice a year. To be honest they have always looked pretty good even after winters in a very snowing climate with a lot of salt on the roads. I am wondering if the problem is isolated to the standard brakes? I have read that the rear brakes generally wear out before the front but that is not the case with mine. They both are ok with the front showing maybe 30% more wear than the rear. Has anyone had the rear dragging issue specifically with the heavy duty brakes?

It has been mentioned several times that Explorers built after the mid 2013 build cycle all have the HD brakes. Not related to the tow package.

Peter

 

[bigdude2468]

Not sure that is right. For my 2014 Explorers Rock Auto, Advanced, Auto Zone and O'Reillys all offer standard pads and heavy duty for the fronts. It is just not the type of pad, they are not interchangeable. The design of the tab on the pad that moves back and forth in the slide clip is completely different. BTW the clips themselves are also different. You can look at photos on the Rock Auto site of the two different designs.