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Ford Explorer Cross Bars / Roof Rack

What would you pick?

  • Oem crossbars + No-name Box

    Votes: 20 46.5%
  • Aftermarket crossbars + No-name Box

    Votes: 2 4.7%
  • Aftermarket crossbars + Thule Box

    Votes: 14 32.6%
  • Aftermarket crossbars + Yakima Box

    Votes: 4 9.3%
  • Other

    Votes: 3 7.0%

  • Total voters
    43
yeah i agree, they look better because the roof is flat and the thule's are straight and not curved like the factory bars.

Careful though. ive heard through the forum that they are loud and can actually damper your mpg's by 1-2 mpg without the wind fairing. depending on how much higher they are mounted off the roof.


I've gone the Thule route on other vehicles... and while it is a great system... the wind noise drove me bonkers. I'd go w/ factory cross rails and thule accessories if it were me (and that's what I did and have a full Thule foot and rail system in the basement).
 



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I've gone the Thule route on other vehicles... and while it is a great system... the wind noise drove me bonkers. I'd go w/ factory cross rails and thule accessories if it were me (and that's what I did and have a full Thule foot and rail system in the basement).

Thule came out with new bars not too long ago that are supposed to be super quiet.

Aeroblade_main_sized_618x408.jpg
 






please also note that the front and rear crossbars are not the same length as mentioned above. The front cross bar is longer than the rear. lastly they need to face the correct direction to the front of the vehicle.

on the cross bar, there are two holes for bolts on both sides of the bar. the front hole is the one with a complete circle. the hole with a cutout should be facing the rear of the vehicle.


Yup theyre the correct bars, fronts are in front, screws are toward the front. The black pieces you slide in are like an H so the one side of them is inside the rail and the other outside. They're in exactly according to the diagram and i've tightened it as much as I can with my hand and they are still able to slide.
 






hmm.. sounds like that may be an issue with the parts you received. Unfortunately ill bet youll need to swing by the dealer. if your in a large city, most big dealers will stock replacement parts and should be no charge to correct your issue.
i cant remember if i ran into the same issue with mine. If i think back it is possible i had to tighten them down with a wrench to catch and stay snug. but i cant say for sure.

good luck, sorry i couldnt be of any more help. Id say swing by the dealer real quick.
 






Take them back to the dealer, mine work fine after we swapped them out, first set were not working right, new set perfect.
 






11-12 Crossbars FYI

We had sold a set of cross bars to a customer a few weeks who responded shortly after that they were both 1-inch "too short" first thing we needed to do was verify the customer received the correct part number in which he did and provided a pic of the box as well and sure enough they were the right part number as verified on Ford's site because there never wrong;) So at this point were :scratch: , we pull up the install PDF and theres no mention about adjusting them it looks very straight forward although there is a front and rear. After getting measurements from our very patient and terrific customer I decided to visit our warehouse where inventory is kept, I pulled a kit off the shelf opened the box and measured the 2 rails and sure enough there both 1 inch short as well! Now due to my 10+ years in the auto biz:) I recall another manufacturer designing a similar bar that extends and bam there was the missing inch! So morale of the story is if you try hard enough theres always another inch ..no just kidding . If you happen to take home a set of these bars the end cap on one side pulls out just enough for a perfect fit.

Thanks for your time!
 






Sweet, now do you sell the remote start for the Ford Explorer 2011? I wanted the option with two key fobs but Ford changed the accessories page and now it only includes one new key fob. =(
 






I bought a set of cross bars off of eBay, saved 50-70, I say that because the local ford dealers were charging 140 to 160 over the counter. Retail is 120.

Anyway mine arrived in a sealed ford OEM box, I pulled out the parts carefully, glanced over the instructions, pretty basic, I installed the front one but when I came to rear I was missing a part, the square shaped threaded plate that the bars screwed into. having worked for Thule in the past I had plenty of widge gits around to make it fit satisfactorily
 






I just got a set from my dealer for $135.
 






Key fob

Sweet, now do you sell the remote start for the Ford Explorer 2011? I wanted the option with two key fobs but Ford changed the accessories page and now it only includes one new key fob. =(
Good Morning,
Additional key fobs are available from our on line repair parts section of our store:
REMOTE CONTROL SYSTEM [Part# 9G1Z15K601A]
List Price:$45.71
Your Price:$35.20 & shipping
Thanks for your inquiry,
Mike
 






I think more than a few of us with the 2nd row bucket seats who did not get the center console might be interested if you had one for a reasonable price. The Ford parts website lists it in about 20 pieces and the total is around $600.00 which is much too much.
 












Maximum loads

FYI, factory bars have a maximum load capacity of 100lbs. I you get a Yakima bar set up, it goes up to 150lbs. I have noticed over the years that all factory bars tend to flex and bow causing a nicely filled roof box to rattle like crazy.
 






FYI, factory bars have a maximum load capacity of 100lbs. I you get a Yakima bar set up, it goes up to 150lbs. I have noticed over the years that all factory bars tend to flex and bow causing a nicely filled roof box to rattle like crazy.

This isn't directed at you, but even the cheesiest luggage racks on mini vans 10-15 years ago had a max of 150......today's SUV racks in my opinion are a lot stronger, not just the bar, but the rail and multiple points of contacts to the frame. If the load is evenly distributed & secured properly you can go much higher than an instruction manual written by a bunch of liability lawyers. Some of the well known bar rack systems manufactures haven't changed their bars or feet for 20-30 years in the late 80s it was 150 kilos. over 350 lbs
 






FYI, factory bars have a maximum load capacity of 100lbs. I you get a Yakima bar set up, it goes up to 150lbs. I have noticed over the years that all factory bars tend to flex and bow causing a nicely filled roof box to rattle like crazy.


If your box is rattling filled or empty, spread the bars out a few more inches AND move the box further to the back, like as far as possible.
 






According to the manual, factory bars have 100 lbs load capacity. The strength of either thule or yakima bars increases it to 150--according to their literature. Personally I run yakima bars, low rider mounts and a huge thule box. I normally carry over 200 lbs in it. My opinion comes from looking at countless roof box set ups on factory bars humming along the highways for the last 15 years. I'm a gear nut so I always pay attention to how those boxes are holding up with factory bars.
 






According to the manual, factory bars have 100 lbs load capacity. The strength of either thule or yakima bars increases it to 150--according to their literature. Personally I run yakima bars, low rider mounts and a huge thule box. I normally carry over 200 lbs in it. My opinion comes from looking at countless roof box set ups on factory bars humming along the highways for the last 15 years. I'm a gear nut so I always pay attention to how those boxes are holding up with factory bars.

Yes, I agree it's all about weight distribution, common sense. I too run around with that weight and more. My box, Thule 2100 weighs about 60 lbs empty. 6 pair of skis at 25 lbs each, the box is sill 1/2 empty, well you get the idea.....
 






Not sure how many of you guys decided to put crossbars on yourself (or had difficulty doing so), but thought I would share my experience from today's install. Most of it is pretty straight forward, but for those of you who are still undecided and are wondering what everything entails, hopefully this will help.


The installation instructions are ok, but they definitely could be better. There IS a front and rear crossbar as you can see in the picture.
e9d45698.jpg



Then, using a flathead screwdriver, remove the rear covers to expose the track within cargo bars.
f3618067.jpg



For those of you with moon roofs, you will need to slide the plastic "v" spacers in the track. This was probably the "hardest" part of the installation as the overall size (width) of the "v" is just a bit too large. I slightly deformed mine during the installation because I either pulled or pushed them into position. They are not very stiff (thank goodness), otherwise I think they would never fit inside the track.
6e5afab1.jpg



Next, install the metallic nutplate/clamp pieces into the mounting plates.
af42830d.jpg



Then simply slide each respective crossbar mounts in the track. There are "left" and "right" side mounts, but not "forward" or "rear" specific mounts to each left or right side.
c85991d8.jpg


Once the mounts are in place, then mount each respective crossbar into position. I will need to move the forward mounts to atleast the forward half of the vehicle. Otherwise you will not be able to install the crossbars. I did notice that each crossbar can lengthen/extend to a certain amount. I think that's to allow the individual to slide each slide a little at a time without having to first loosen up both sides.
68c479e1.jpg



The finished product!
e5715532.jpg
 






I have found no logical purpose for the spacer pieces with the moon roof. The moon roof only opens about an inch so there is plently of clearance, even if you had all but the thickest of clamps on the bar. I don't bother putting them in any more. I only put the bars on when I am going to use them, to keep drag as low as possible. I found a folding step stool that fits nicely under the seat that is perfect for installation and loading things (Bed Bath and Beyond).
http://www.bedbathandbeyond.com/product.asp?SKU=14158430
My mother in law is short so nice for her getting into the vehicle too.
There is a 12" version too.
 



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I have found no logical purpose for the spacer pieces with the moon roof.

I couldn't figure out why those were needed either. I put them in since the directions said to use them, but there doesn't seem to be a reason. Why would they want to prevent people from putting the front bar directly above the moonroof? Like you said, there's plenty of clearance.
 






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