Ford Explorer No Start!!! Get only a single "click"

[Ogosiosaur]

First off, let me say reading this forum has been a really big help...sort of (so it's time I asked for help).
My 1992 Ford Explorer will not start. It began intermittently where occasionally (like the car in the original back to the future movie, you turn the key over to start...and you get no crank - just sometimes). Now it is "permanent"; it won't start - just one "click".

In my case I get a single "audible Click" from the fender.

I replaced the following components (after reading similar posts on this forum):
- Battery (it's fully charged - new).
- Starter; yes, I still have the old one as that wasn't it! The item was bench tested and spins no problem as does my old one.
- Fender solenoid per recommendation Napa; $35; no joy
- Positive Battery Cable; used a stock Ford cable $50.
- Negative Battery Cable; used a stock cable $50.

No joy with any and all of the above.
Details:
I've got a new Ford reman motor in this Explorer and am trying to sell this Ford as we are unable to move "two cars" from Seattle to the East Coast. The reman motor costed me $3000 and it only has 30 000 miles on it. I have a problem with the transmission (it lost first gear).

I spent $300 in parts this past week trying to get it running (to be able to sell it; I was asking $600 on craigslist and no takers as it won't start so nobody really believes the motor is what I say it is). We just want to get $500 bucks to get it out of here since moving it will cost $1295 on a car haluer.
So far some guy offered $250 bucks and I said "no", as that doesn't cover my recent part costs for all the starting system parts. The car still looks ok and has no accidents. Tired of low ball offers but what can you expect from a car that won't start.

Anyway,
Can anyone help me figure out what is the last possible thing that would cause the vehicle (one click) - not to want to start? I have less than three days until the moving truck arrives.
Maybe I should just donate the "Exploder"...that's what my kids call it.
I may never buy another Ford explorer after two transmissions, and now this.

Please move this question or advise me to do so if in wrong area the forum.
Thanks!

 

[Sitcoms]

Have you checked the alternator honestly? I'm no pro at these things, but it seems you've checked most the other components besides it.

 

[Ogosiosaur]

Have you checked the alternator honestly? I'm no pro at these things, but it seems you've checked most the other components besides it.

The alternator...
This Explorer will not start. In other words, no motor crank...only get a single audible click from the fender mounted solenoid. What would the alternator have to do with it? (Not trying to sound angry btw). This thing is driving me nuts.

 

[natenkiki2004]

Sounds like you should donate it. Bring it on over to my place and I'll accept it as-is

Let's think about this logically; everything is working up to the fender solenoid. The key, ignition switch, wiring to the solenoid. As long as everything is connected right (you should double-check that) then that means you're not getting power to the secondary solenoid on the starter. There's 2 positive wires that go to the starter, the small one activates the starter solenoid which allows power to flow into the starter motor.

So, you're going to have to look at the wiring and voltage test at the starter to see if the wires are getting power and that they're hooked up correctly.

Was the whole starter replaced, solenoid too? Or just the motor attached to the starter? Perhaps it was rebuilt and the solenoid on the starter is to blame?

 

[Ogosiosaur]

Hi, Naten.
I'll take my DMM and test for voltage. Keep in mind, this issue began "slowly" as a strange intermittent "no start condition" where after entering the vehicle, turning the key over...you got nothing. Not all the time. You back off the key and try again and away it would fire with TONS of get up and go from the starter...not like the typical dead battery situation where you get that audible indication a battery is low. Bottom line: "was" just an intermittent no start (with one audible click)...now it is a full time NO start and ONE CLICK.

The entire starter has been replaced. In fact, I have two starters; the original one and another one (bench tested fine - now on the vehicle).

You are correct, everything up to the firewall solenoid is good.

Somewhere on this forum somebody had the exact same problem as I have. They suggested the starter grounds to the block and there was a "build-up" of GOOP or dirt not allowing a good ground.

Anyway, as for electrical connections I will double check all connections. I know it is safe to say they are correct as nothing was done or "undone" that caused this. The vehicle simply started having this no start issue which while intermittent progressed to a full blown NO START situation.

Having replaced components one at a time I ensured to note connections.

I'd say best bet is to read voltage with a DMM at Starter as you suggested.

Folks, please keep sending me your tips. I cannot understand what this could be as everything has been replaced. Connections are TIGHT. Things in proper place. Nothing left UNDONE like a cable, etc. I typically never post in forums as I always figure things out but this one has me beat.

 

[Ogosiosaur]

DMM checks show battery voltage exists at the fender mounted solenoid lug terminal; then exists at adjacent solenoid lug upon cranking (you also hear the solenoid single click).
Battery voltage is measurable on the large positive cable at the starter.

Battery voltage is measurable at the small red wire on the starter upon cranking.
Voltage measures 12.6V on DMM; same at all said locations.

The starter was bench tested and ran fine. Also, I did get this Ford started acouple weeks back prior to changing the battery and pos/neg cable parts and with the same starter in it now. I know all connections are correct and tight. The car had the issue months prior to changing anything.

Keep in mind, it was and "intermittent start" problem so severe which became progressively worse and worse - this means:
A few weeks ago the car would not start altogether; try it literally 100 times and you might get one start.
My assumption was starter so I replaced it. NO JOY. After 50 or 75 cycle key attempts I finally got one start!
Since then, I added fender solenoid, a new battery and the pos & neg battery cables thinking my problem was old corroded cables; no joy.

The issue today is the same as it was several weeks ago. If you asked me about the problem 6 months ago I would say..."occasionally - once a month I'll get one no start (just a single click).
Now it is no start all time and once in 150 (literally) key cycles - a maybe it will start. When it does start BTW...it cranks over with FULL GHUSTO!!
Which is what confuses the crap out of me.

Do you think I should pull the starter and examine for dirt???
Maybe bench test was a false positive as it was from a wrecker and possibly it could be toast - but why the bench test was ok; and once I was able to start the vehicle said starter. No matter, my prior starter same dang thing.

The last guy on this forum (with same problem) said he had a bunch of goop or dirt causing a bad ground of the starter motor itself to block (apparently the starter grounds case to engine).

I do not offroad this car so as for goop It would just be old (age).

 

[natenkiki2004]

Chances are it's not going to be dirt. Chassis grounds can be coated in rust but still conduct electricity just fine. Being that the starter has 2 bolts going into the engine, those bolts will conduct electricity just fine. Keep in mind, when you use dielectric grease, you coat everything in it, the entire connection. Many people ask, "doesn't that insulate the connection and prevent it from working?" No, because the mechanical grip that connection has is what connects it, there is metal touching metal and that's all you need. The dielectric grease - or dirt/grit/grease in your case - coats the metal that's not mechanically joined.

That's a long way of saying, it's likely not a ground issue.

You've verified battery voltage at the starter, both on the main power wire and solenoid power. That's good BUT, you haven't verified power coming OUT of the starter solenoid. There's a flexible mesh type wire coming off the starter solenoid, you need to check for battery voltage there. If there is voltage then that means the starter or it's internal brushes is bad (not likely since it was bench tested). If there's no voltage there then the solenoid on the starter is bad which indicates that it was bypassed when it was bench tested.

 

[Ogosiosaur]

thanks for the thorough reply.
I'll check the mesh wire for battery voltage.

The starter was not bench tested by me but a guy at a used parts place that sold it to (testing it in the back) me used.
The parts store owner had to explain to the fellow "how to test it".
He came back saying - it works!
I assumed their (it works!) statement true as the fact I was able to get it to start once - albeit in 100 cycles meaning I assumed the battery cables must be corroded (ruled out the starter).
I don't have it fixed yet but lesson to be learned here is to simply makes some DMM checks with a multimeter prior to replacing components.

I had a scirocco 16V that was causing me all sorts of electrical charging and cold start issues and that indeed was a simple corroded battery cable.

Anyway, I'll check the braided cable at the starter. Correct, I did miss checking that one so good on you for notiing that. I'll keep everyone posted.

 

[Ogosiosaur]

Seems braided connection is reading "4 Volts"???

I am going to bench test the starter myself. Huge lesson learned here. when you go to your local wrecker place actually verify things yourself. Also, make sure not spending dollars replacing things. The Battery it needed as the old one was indeed shot. The battery cables though were a $100 dollar expense I won't benefit from; next owner maybe.

Nest step. Bench test start (myself). You cannot trust other folks (if you yourself didn't verify it) but the blame then is still on me.

 

[natenkiki2004]

You don't have to bench test it, just run the big wire over to where the braided mesh wire goes. You'll be bypassing the starter solenoid but not the fender solenoid. It should crank right up when you turn the key. If so, your starter solenoid is faulty.

Rather than getting a junkyard starter, you would have been better off taking your original one to a reputable parts store where they could rebuild it or sell you a remanufactured unit. Who knows what condition the junkyard one is in.

The battery cables are a good investment, less strain on the starter & alternator. I wouldn't recommend the original Ford ones though, just due to cost. At least you know they're done (most all Explorers need them done) and you can rule them out in future diagnostics.

 

[Ogosiosaur]

I think I have figured out what it is and I am on my way to the used auto parts wrecker.
The fellow at the auto parts store looked perplexed when his boss asked him to test the starter. If he connected both lugs to positive battery voltage and grounded the case he would have seen it spin. I was able to duplicate that.

However, the way this starter is supposed to work is the small metal tab should be (use a screwdriver) and jumper from 12V which activates the device to run.

I suspect when nice middle aged (parts picker) who spoke with spanglish: I woerks boss!! He may have not been testing it and I assumed.
I'm the fool.
Thanks Ford forum for leading me on a systematic troubleshooting method:
1. DMM checks
2. Eliminate (typical use a schematic) obvious.

 

[natenkiki2004]

Bingo. He confirmed the starter works but not knowing about the solenoid, didn't test it.

Do yourself a favor and get a remanufactured unit with a warranty from a reputable parts house. I don't know about you but I depend on my vehicle for reliability. Junkyards & wreckers are good for cosmetic and functional stuff but not for critical wearable items.

 

[Ogosiosaur]

Thanks for your help. That was it.

I was able to take the starter back to them and get a refund.
They apparently have parts pickers, many of which are homeless or would normally be living on the street. Good for them helping people.

Got a new starter with warranty and starts right up.

Lesson learned.

 

[Bobmbx]

Thanks for your help. That was it.

I was able to take the starter back to them and get a refund.
They apparently have parts pickers, many of which are homeless or would normally be living on the street. Good for them helping people.

Got a new starter with warranty and starts right up.

Lesson learned.

Feels good, don't it?

Heres a tip I live by: If it makes it stop or go, it comes new from a store. Everything else is negotiable.