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How to: Ford Explorer Starter No crank procedure

2000StreetRod

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This procedure diagnoses a No crank starter problem. The procedure is based on information in the 2000 Explorer Ford Wiring Diagrams and my personal experience. The numbered steps should be performed in the order listed.

1. Does "THEFT" blink rapidly with ignition key in Off, On or Start?
Yes: Verify key validity
Check Passive Anti-Theft System (PATS)
No: Go to next numbered step

2. Is the voltage across the battery terminals 12.6 volts or more?
Yes: Go to next numbered step
No: The battery is bad or not fully charged. Charge the battery. If it will not charge then test and replace it if bad.

3. Are the battery connections (posts and cable terminals) clean and tight?
Yes: Go to next numbered step
No: Clean and tighten

4. Is the battery negative cable in good condition and grounded properly?
Yes: Go to next numbered step
No: Replace cable or clean and tighten ground connection

5. Is the battery positive cable in good condition?
Yes: Go to next numbered step
No: Replace cable

6. Is the Ignition Switch/Starter Relay fuse #5 (50 amps) in the battery junction box good?
Yes: Go to next numbered step
No: Replace fuse

7. Is the Clutch Pedal Position Switch/Starter Relay Coil/Digital Transmission Range Sensor Switch fuse #24 (7.5 amps) in the central junction box good?
Yes: Go to next numbered step
No: Replace fuse

8. Is the clutch disengaged?
Yes: Go to next numbered step
No: Disengage clutch

9. Is transmission selector in Park or Neutral?
Yes: Got to next numbered step
No: Select Park or Neutral

10. Swap Starter Motor Relay #6 in Battery Junction Box with Blower Motor Relay #9.

11. Remove Starter Motor Relay #6 and insert voltmeter positive probe into socket where pin 85 of relay would normally go. Connect voltmeter negative probe to chassis ground. Is there battery voltage when ignition key is turned to Start?
Yes: Go to next numbered step
No: Replace or adjust Clutch Pedal Position Switch or Digital Transmission Range Sensor

12. Remove voltmeter probe and insert Starter Motor Relay #6

13. Is the cable from battery positive terminal to starter motor in good condition and connected properly?
Yes: Go to next numbered step
No: Replace cable or clean and tighten connections

14. Is the yellow/light blue wire connected properly to the starter solenoid?
Yes: Go to next numbered step
No: Clean and tighten connector

15. Is the starter solenoid/motor properly grounded?
Yes: Go to next numbered step
No. Ground properly

16. Remove starter solenoid/motor and test. Repair/replace as required
 
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fisk5ive

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gonna check my fuses thanks and take it from there
 
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ruckus racing

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is there any steps after this? the only maybe i got was + and - wires on starter properly hooked up, and starter is brand new
 
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leoJr

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I originally posted this in the "no start" thread but this one is more relevant.

Why isn't this thread a sticky?



My issue is occasional no crank. Good battery, everything lights up. Turn the key to crank and zero noise, no chattering solenoid, no starter engaging or free spinning.

Before we would cycle the key on and off, raise/lower the tilt steering, etc and eventually it would crank and fire.

Last night it wouldn't crank, so I went back this morning to retrieve it and it started like nothing was ever an issue. Battery tested good. I replaced the starter as I already had it. No odd wear on the wires to the starter, all looked good.

My confidence that the problem is the starter is now very low an I want to check other items, like the PATS, ignition switch, etc, that may be the cause.
 
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Green98XLT

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Subscribing, I'm fighting this exact issue with my 02 Limited right now... I'm getting a rapid blinking theft light when it does it so I'm pretty sure its the PATS. Both my my keys are OEM Ford so I'm pretty sure they aren't the issue.
 
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2000StreetRod

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both keys?

For both keys remove everything from the key ring except the key and see if that makes a difference. If you have the problem with both keys it's unlikely they would go bad at the same time. Are you getting a PATS flash code as described in post 1 of the following thread: Everything you wanted to know about PATS.
 
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Green98XLT

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For both keys remove everything from the key ring except the key and see if that makes a difference. If you have the problem with both keys it's unlikely they would go bad at the same time. Are you getting a PATS flash code as described in post 1 of the following thread: Everything you wanted to know about PATS.

2000- I'm not sure if I'm getting the PAT's flash code or not, as the wife has been taking it to work all week and I haven't got a chance to pull it in the garage and get it to re-occur. Hoping to do that this weekend.
 
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97MarkVIII

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This procedure diagnoses a No crank starter problem. The procedure is based on information in the 2000 Explorer Ford Wiring Diagrams and my personal experience. The numbered steps should be performed in the order listed.

1. Does "THEFT" blink rapidly with ignition key in Off, On or Start?
Yes: Verify key validity
Check Passive Anti-Theft System (PATS)
No: Go to next numbered step

2. Is the voltage across the battery terminals 12.6 volts or more?
Yes: Go to next numbered step
No: The battery is bad or not fully charged. Charge the battery. If it will not charge then test and replace it if bad.

3. Are the battery connections (posts and cable terminals) clean and tight?
Yes: Go to next numbered step
No: Clean and tighten

4. Is the battery negative cable in good condition and grounded properly?
Yes: Go to next numbered step
No: Replace cable or clean and tighten ground connection

5. Is the battery positive cable in good condition?
Yes: Go to next numbered step
No: Replace cable

6. Is the Ignition Switch/Starter Relay fuse #5 (50 amps) in the battery junction box good?
Yes: Go to next numbered step
No: Replace fuse

7. Is the Clutch Pedal Position Switch/Starter Relay Coil/Digital Transmission Range Sensor Switch fuse #24 (7.5 amps) in the central junction box good?
Yes: Go to next numbered step
No: Replace fuse

8. Is the clutch disengaged?
Yes: Go to next numbered step
No: Disengage clutch

9. Is transmission selector in Park or Neutral?
Yes: Got to next numbered step
No: Select Park or Neutral

10. Swap Starter Motor Relay #6 in Battery Junction Box with Blower Motor Relay #9.

11. Remove Starter Motor Relay #6 and insert voltmeter positive probe into socket where pin 85 of relay would normally go. Connect voltmeter negative probe to chassis ground. Is there battery voltage when ignition key is turned to Start?
Yes: Go to next numbered step
No: Replace or adjust Clutch Pedal Position Switch or Digital Transmission Range Sensor

12. Remove voltmeter probe and insert Starter Motor Relay #6

13. Is the cable from battery positive terminal to starter motor in good condition and connected properly?
Yes: Go to next numbered step
No: Replace cable or clean and tighten connections

14. Is the yellow/light blue wire connected properly to the starter solenoid?
Yes: Go to next numbered step
No: Clean and tighten connector

15. Is the starter solenoid/motor properly grounded?
Yes: Go to next numbered step
No. Ground properly

16. Remove starter solenoid/motor and test. Repair/replace as required


There's another relay which right next to the battery.People for whatever reason think it's a solenoid because of Wiki and the Chevy clowns who do write up's on installing one on their junk.The Ford starter relay which is mounted on the inner fender and next to the battery is just a heavy duty relay.A starter solenoid is ALWAYS on the starter and has a relay built into it as well.
 
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denniswpb

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Okay guys, here is what I learned this week with my 2001 Ford Explorer Sport when the engine would not crank. Vehicle was running perfect. Wife pulled in the driveway and turned the vehicle off. Before she could even get out of the seat, I asked her to pull it up further. She tried to start it again, and nothing! Vehicle would not crank at all... WTF! I went through all the obvious stuff... battery, cables, fuses, swapping the starter solenoid with the blower solenoid, swearing at it, etc. :censored: I wish someone would have said to do this:

FIRST THING!!!!! Check your THEFT light when you turn the key to the RUN or START position. If it blinks rapidly, then you have a problem with the PATS (Passive Anti-Theft System).

After 5 hours of troubleshooting the obvious then reading countless articles on the forum, I finally learned about the PATS. Sure would have saved me a lot of grief if this was made clearer in the beginning.
If the THEFT light blinks rapidly (normal is every 3 seconds) what's basically happening is.... "your vehicle thinks you are trying to steal it". In your key is a chip that is programmed with a code. When you insert your key into the ignition lock, there is a Transceiver (sometimes referred to as a "halo") around the ignition lock that picks up the code in the chip and sends the code to the PCM (Powertrain Computer Module). If the codes match, then the vehicle starts. If it doesn't, then you cuss at if and say WTF!

There are 3 things that could be the problem:
1). The system is just totally confused. Somehow the PCM is not getting the right code from the chip in your key. Try your second key and see if that works. If it still won't work, it could be that you need to have the system reprogrammed, but you have to take it to Ford to have that done.
2). The Transceiver (halo) went out and it's not getting the signal from the chip in the key.
3). The PCM went bad.

I saw that the THEFT light was flashing rapidly so I had it towed to Ford to see if it just needed to get re-programmed after the second key would not work either. They hooked it up to their computer, and it read "PCM NOT GETTING SIGNAL, POSSIBLE BAD PCM". I asked them if it could be just the Transceiver, and their answer was "It could be". I decided to tow my vehicle back to the house and get a new Transceiver from Ford for $41.00. Took me all of 10 minutes to put it in, and it cranked right up!! :) What I found is, these transceivers have a tendency to go out with no warning and it's not uncommon for them to just die. Had I needed a new PCM, there is a place called Flagship One www.fs1inc.com that has PCM's with new keys already coded for about $190.00 and also takes 10 minutes to replace. BTW, did I mention that Ford said it would be about $2,000 for them to replace the Transceiver and a PCM! :mad2:. Hope this helped someone.. Take care.....
 
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denniswpb

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I didn't "ignore it", you just never explained it.. "Check PATS" didn't tell me much. I was really hoping for a better explanation.
 
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EGruner

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[QUOTE="leoJr, post: 3382912, member: 67355"

My issue is occasional no crank. Good battery, everything lights up. Turn the key to crank and zero noise, no chattering solenoid, no starter engaging or free spinning.

Before we would cycle the key on and off, raise/lower the tilt steering, etc and eventually it would crank and fire.]

I realize that this is many months past this original post, but in case there are others reading this with a similar problem.... If you get the vehicle to start after you raise and lower the steering column (or pounding on it in frustration) the problem may be a poor connection in the wires that go to your PATS "halo" or ignition switch in the column. After a few years of raising and lowering the column one of the wires may have worked loose or broke. Remove the plastic trim panels around the column and inspect the wires...if I recall correctly it is a yellow wire that runs to the "halo" that I would recommend checking first.
 
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America

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Hi, I was wondering if you could help me. I have a 2001 Ford Explorer Sports Trac with no crank no start issue. The truck has left me stranded a few times. I would come back hours later to figure out the problem and it would start. Some times it starts and some times it don't, but now it does not want to start at all. Everything lights up on the dash and the security light does not blink fast, its normal.

This procedure diagnoses a No crank starter problem. The procedure is based on information in the 2000 Explorer Ford Wiring Diagrams and my personal experience. The numbered steps should be performed in the order listed.

1. Does "THEFT" blink rapidly with ignition key in Off, On or Start?
Yes: Verify key validity
Check Passive Anti-Theft System (PATS)
No: Go to next numbered step

2. Is the voltage across the battery terminals 12.6 volts or more?
Yes: Go to next numbered step
No: The battery is bad or not fully charged. Charge the battery. If it will not charge then test and replace it if bad.

3. Are the battery connections (posts and cable terminals) clean and tight?
Yes: Go to next numbered step
No: Clean and tighten

4. Is the battery negative cable in good condition and grounded properly?
Yes: Go to next numbered step
No: Replace cable or clean and tighten ground connection

5. Is the battery positive cable in good condition?
Yes: Go to next numbered step
No: Replace cable

6. Is the Ignition Switch/Starter Relay fuse #5 (50 amps) in the battery junction box good?
Yes: Go to next numbered step
No: Replace fuse

7. Is the Clutch Pedal Position Switch/Starter Relay Coil/Digital Transmission Range Sensor Switch fuse #24 (7.5 amps) in the central junction box good?
Yes: Go to next numbered step
No: Replace fuse

8. Is the clutch disengaged?
Yes: Go to next numbered step
No: Disengage clutch

9. Is transmission selector in Park or Neutral?
Yes: Got to next numbered step
No: Select Park or Neutral

10. Swap Starter Motor Relay #6 in Battery Junction Box with Blower Motor Relay #9.

11. Remove Starter Motor Relay #6 and insert voltmeter positive probe into socket where pin 85 of relay would normally go. Connect voltmeter negative probe to chassis ground. Is there battery voltage when ignition key is turned to Start?
Yes: Go to next numbered step
No: Replace or adjust Clutch Pedal Position Switch or Digital Transmission Range Sensor

12. Remove voltmeter probe and insert Starter Motor Relay #6

13. Is the cable from battery positive terminal to starter motor in good condition and connected properly?
Yes: Go to next numbered step
No: Replace cable or clean and tighten connections

14. Is the yellow/light blue wire connected properly to the starter solenoid?
Yes: Go to next numbered step
No: Clean and tighten connector

15. Is the starter solenoid/motor properly grounded?
Yes: Go to next numbered step
No. Ground properly

16. Remove starter solenoid/motor and test. Repair/replace as required
 
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EGruner

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Hi, I was wondering if you could help me. I have a 2001 Ford Explorer Sports Trac with no crank no start issue. The truck has left me stranded a few times. I would come back hours later to figure out the problem and it would start. Some times it starts and some times it don't, but now it does not want to start at all. Everything lights up on the dash and the security light does not blink fast, its normal.

First I would say is to check the starter. When you turn the key is there any clicking noise from the starter? If you turn on the interior lights and try to turn the engine over do they go dim? There are many possibilities from a bad starter to a bad ground, bad switch or bad starter relay. It's a process of elimination.
 
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America

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First I would say is to check the starter. When you turn the key is there any clicking noise from the starter? If you turn on the interior lights and try to turn the engine over do they go dim? There are many possibilities from a bad starter to a bad ground, bad switch or bad starter relay. It's a process of elimination.



No click coming from the starter.
 
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