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As a prudent safety move, I decided to replace the switch on my ’99; it had the red top.

A quick trip to the local Ford dealer’s parts department, scored me a new switch ( with the black top and jumper cable ), part number 1L1Z9G652AA for the meager sum of $17.42 plus tax ( total $18.64 ).

Aaron’s very succinct write up enabled me to quickly remove the old switch and replace with the new without having to search for the proper wrenches.

I used Loctite 545 Thread Sealer ( Dead Link Removed ) to seal the threads on the new switch.

The entire removal/replacement took less than 5 minutes.
 

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The new black switch and jumper installed.
 

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kfkodiak said:
:thumbsup: Great write-up, I'll definitely put it to use!

Did you have to bleed the brakes after the install?

I did not bleed at the wheel cylinders. The pedal feel didn't change, but it is always a risk.
 






There was no spillage of brake fluid whatsoever. I did not bleed and all is fine.
 






Anybody see the video clip by one of the Ford Execs that was posted on the Ford Recall web page?

They are absolutely clueless and really just don't get it.

I told the Ford parts guy where I just got my switch that I am 98% sure that what Ford said in the clip is correct. It's the 2% uncertainty which makes me sleepless at night.

Do you really want to park a car in garage in a house where your kids and wife sleep at night knowing that there is a possibility -however remote- you and the family could be burnt steak the next day?

And for what? A part that cost a lousy $15. Is it really worth it to Ford to potentially lose their next car sale over it? The Explorer is the best car I ever owned (that includes a pair of Infinitis in the mix). But when it comes to customers...well...I've said it already.
 






jodogo said:
And for what? A part that cost a lousy $15. Is it really worth it to Ford to potentially lose their next car sale over it?

And remember, that's retail price. The part probably cost Ford about $1.00.
 






Hello V8BoatBuilder:

Thank you for the incredibly clear how to info, they should hire you over at the DIY Network. What type of teflon thread sealer did you use? Tape or paste? I got the parts and the guy behind the counter had never heard of any fire issues - surpise surpise. I could not locate the loctite 545 but have the white tefoln tape and putty in my shop from other plumbing projects. I am guessing the tape would be best.

Thank you for your efforts and assitance from a guy new to the world DIY car repair.
 












Al's stuff will work great, too. I used "Teflon thread Sealer" by Permacell. It comes in a small tube, and is white. I used just a drop. You can get it at most autoparts stores, by all the RTV sealant.

The liquid works best, because it is very thin. It'll seal the threads, without jamming up, hurting torque readings, or preventing electrical contact. It's different than putty.

The old sender didn't have any sealant, but why take chances?
 






I know this is somewhat elementary, but I would just as soon as switch mine over so it's ignition operated. That's the problem with the current one. If it fails with your car parked in the garage then it can start a fire even with the ignition switched off. Quite frankly that is my main concern. If a fire starts when I am driving, fine.....at least I can get out.

To get to the point, can anyone tell me the easiest way to find a switched circuit so I can rewire mine so it isn't always hot?
 






You're forgetting a couple things:

First of all, use a small eyedropper and place a few drops of brake fluid into the new switch. That will fill the switch and minimize the air in the system. You'd be amazed at how such a small volume can affect the pedal feel.

Second, the switches on the Explorers and ST's are NOT currently a part of the recall. We still don't quite know why they tend to fail on the F-150 and not any other vehicles. We also don't know what changed around '00 to cause the diaphragm to start failing. They also seem to be failing at around the 5-year mark.... again, no idea why. All we know so far is that the TI-supplied switch seems to be failing at a disproportionate rate on the F-150, especially in hotter climates. There's no rhyme or reason thus far.

Not all those switches will fail.... I've got one in my '98 Explorer that hasn't leaked yet, but the one in my friend's '00 F150 has. My F-150 is currently OK (although it's part of the recall) but needs the new one.

They've been using that same TI switch for 25 years.... some leak after a couple years, some never leak.

If it was my vehicle, I'd just pull the 20A fuse out and swap it for a 2A. It's only a voltage input for the speed control servo and uses less than 0.1 mA.

As I've said before on the issue, whatever makes you sleep better at night.

-Joe
 






I haven't noticed any problems with my switch, but for $16.00, I saw no reason not to change it. It's a cheap and easy fix and, yes, I will probably sleep better at night. :)

BTW, the part number is 1L1Z-9G652-AA for 1995 Explorers (4.0L OHV).
 






Ok guys after hearing about the recall and searching here I went out and looked at my 2K XLS and it has the red top. Am I correct in that its the cruise control switch. I never use cruise anyway, could I just pull the fuse from the fuse box inside,leaving the cable hooked up and be ok or just unplug the cable, from the switch from under the hood,leaving the fuse in and be ok? If pulling the fuse would work then I'll probably just do that for now as I dont use cruise
Thanks
 






Sorry for bringing up an old topic but should I be worried? - I use cruise control a lot.

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!!
 












beedee said:
Sorry for bringing up an old topic but should I be worried? - I use cruise control a lot.

Using the cruise a lot has absolutely nothing to do with the problem. You can use it all the time or never use it, but it doesn't have any effect on whether or not the switch will fail, leak, short-out, and/or ignite. I know people with F-150s that had leaky switches that never burned, and others that had switches that burst into flame without any warning.

There are no current reports of fires in any of the other vehicles equipped with that switch. Nobody knows exactly why just yet, but they're still researching it.

-Joe
 






I just called my dealer today and the arrogant parts guy said that Ford has not released the replacement part yet. I gave him the part numbers listed on this thread and he said that was just an interim bypass switch but does not address the electrical fire problem (which he said is limited to F150s and Expeditions, not Explorers).

Can someone tell me what is the deal? Should I wait for Ford to come out with a new part? Does this one in the thread not help the electrical issue? :confused:
 






The currently available part is a replacement switch with an adapter harness. The new part (if and when it comes out) is supposed to have a fuse in the adapter as well.

He is correct in that the second wave of recalled vehicles do NOT have a replacement kit available, UNLESS the existing switch is leaking. If the existing switch is leaking, they use the currently available kit (posted above) to replace it. If it's not leaking, they simply disconnect it and wait for the new kit to become available.

I'm leaving mine just the way it is for now. I see no need to change it. My car and homeowners insurance are up to date. Ford has not seen any significant failures of the switches in the Explorers. That's why only the full-sizes are involved in the recall.

-Joe
 






gijoecam said:
The currently available part is a replacement switch with an adapter harness. The new part (if and when it comes out) is supposed to have a fuse in the adapter as well.

He is correct in that the second wave of recalled vehicles do NOT have a replacement kit available, UNLESS the existing switch is leaking. If the existing switch is leaking, they use the currently available kit (posted above) to replace it. If it's not leaking, they simply disconnect it and wait for the new kit to become available.

I'm leaving mine just the way it is for now. I see no need to change it. My car and homeowners insurance are up to date. Ford has not seen any significant failures of the switches in the Explorers. That's why only the full-sizes are involved in the recall.

-Joe


Thanks Joe. That is what the parts guy said - that they are just disconnecting it. Does that mean I lose my cruise control until Ford comes out with a replacement? If so, how does this part number above help the situation?
 



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spta97 said:
Thanks Joe. That is what the parts guy said - that they are just disconnecting it. Does that mean I lose my cruise control until Ford comes out with a replacement? If so, how does this part number above help the situation?

I thought I already explained it.

The replacement above is the new switch with a NON-fused adapter. It is the replacement for the initial recall group, as well as the replacement for those second-wave vehicles exhibiting a failed (leaky) switch. Those second-recall vehicles that do NOT have a defective switch are unplugged until the new kit becomes available. The new kit is supposed to have a fused adapter harness, however those kits are on hold indefinately according to the latest info from Ford.

Replace yours with the kit V-8 boat builder posted and you will be fine. If that's not good enough for you, unplug it and wait for the new kit. Unplugging it WILL disable the cruise control.

Or, you could do what the other 875,000 Explorers a year have done: Nothing. Just because you have the switch that's failing in the F-series is no reason to assume that yours will fail on an Explorer. The Ex's run at a lower pressure, making the switches less-prone to failure, hence the lack of a recall.

-Joe
 






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