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Ford Motorcraft Part# request

MuscleJunkie

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Year, Model & Trim Level
'00 Ford Explorer LTD AWD
I have a 2000 Limited 5.0 AWD with EATC

I need the Ford Motorcraft part numbers for the evaporator core, the blend door actuator and blend door.

Also need part number for what I think is called the camshaft position sensor that goes down into the motor by the water pump

Thank You
 



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@MuscleJunkie

FWIW - The Rock Auto Catalog usually lists the original FORD part numbers within each offering of an AFTERMARKET part that replicates the original part.

Hope that helps -
 






Why replace your evap core when its not needed?

F87Z19E616AA
F5TZ19A813A
ZL2Z19850LC
 






You are looking for the camshaft synchronizer and camshaft position sensor on top of it



Do not use a cheapo synchronizer! I would rather keep the ford unit for 300k miles then use aftermarket here, if it turns smoothly and no chirps then no need to replace
 






Why replace your evap core when its not needed?

F87Z19E616AA
F5TZ19A813A
ZL2Z19850LC
Going to check it when everything is apart and would like to have on hand if it looks like it might be needed.
 






You are looking for the camshaft synchronizer and camshaft position sensor on top of it



Do not use a cheapo synchronizer! I would rather keep the ford unit for 300k miles then use aftermarket here, if it turns smoothly and no chirps then no need to replace
I was considering the Motorcraft DA2090. Right now I am chasing a chirping sound that sounds like what I heard on a video about the topic. I am only hearing the chirp sometimes when 1st accelerating. Also at a cold start when going into reverse or drive (moving) hearing it sometimes too. Do not hear this chirp any other time - only intermittently when taking off from a stop. Sounds just like at the 4:15sec mark in this video Again - mine is not continuous like in the video - only occasionally. We do not think it is the belt. Thinking that it might be this issue or possible the new harmonic balancer that was installed while putting in the Supercharger. Its definitely a chirp - not continuous and happens intermittently
 






Remove belt start truck cold start??

Mechanics stethoscope works well here
If you can hear it from drivers seat it will be more apparent w hood open


If you remove the 3 nuts holding down the coil pack tower (edit actually 4 there is the small 11 mm on the side then you pry the bracket over. It can be bent back on RE install)
Now you can move coil pack and tower aside and pull the cam synchronizer right up and out for testing
As long as you stab it back in the engine in the same position (same tooth on cam gear) you do not need to do cyl one tdc compression and use align tool
 






Going to check it when everything is apart and would like to have on hand if it looks like it might be needed.
Smart having it on hand is smart !
I was gonna say it's a ***** to remove the heater blower resister assembly
It can only be replaced from under the hood
even with the box removed it has to be broken down
 






@MuscleJunkie

Assuming that your serpentine belt pully bearings are A-OK, I offer up the following.

Since no one asked, how many miles on the engine/ camshaft synchronizer and has the engine ever been run???

OK - the large/beefy camshaft syncro gear is roll pinned to the main shaft that goes up through the aluminum body/housing.

That shaft is spiral grooved, like a spiral staircase, and that grooving allows engine oil a "capillary effect" path to be "sucked up" and thus lubricate the inside of the aluminum housing.

When the groove on the main shaft becomes "coked" with old oil, the chirp first becomes evident when the engine is cold =
coke on the main shaft contacting coke on the body.

If the chirping only just started, there is the possibility that you can push out the out roll pin that hold the gear, pull out the main shaft, and clean it with Scotch Brite and solvent.

The main body can be cleaned with a rag dipped in solvent, attached to a rifle OR shotgun aluminum cleaning rod / interchanged with a plastic brush tip.

Your original OEM Cam Synchro is the best quality and if caught quickly can be serviced

HTH -
 






@MuscleJunkie

Assuming that your serpentine belt pully bearings are A-OK, I offer up the following.

Since no one asked, how many miles on the engine/ camshaft synchronizer and has the engine ever been run???

OK - the large/beefy camshaft syncro gear is roll pinned to the main shaft that goes up through the aluminum body/housing.

That shaft is spiral grooved, like a spiral staircase, and that grooving allows engine oil a "capillary effect" path to be "sucked up" and thus lubricate the inside of the aluminum housing.

When the groove on the main shaft becomes "coked" with old oil, the chirp first becomes evident when the engine is cold =
coke on the main shaft contacting coke on the body.

If the chirping only just started, there is the possibility that you can push out the out roll pin that hold the gear, pull out the main shaft, and clean it with Scotch Brite and solvent.

The main body can be cleaned with a rag dipped in solvent, attached to a rifle OR shotgun aluminum cleaning rod / interchanged with a plastic brush tip.

Your original OEM Cam Synchro is the best quality and if caught quickly can be serviced

HTH -
Thank you for the helpful information about this. Would this apply when the chirp is only being heard when the vehicle moves. At no time during idle or in neutral or in park and revving the engine. Only when the transmission is engaged and the vehicle moves from a stop. Only happens intermittently not every single time the vehicle moves. This truck is a 5 L all-wheel-drive. Can be heard in reverse or forward gears.
 






^^^^ Good questions, but sorry, there are no absolutes.

BUT when you first notice the chirp, more than likely it will be when the engine is warming up from a overnight cold start - BUT AGAIN, no absolutes...

If you catch it fast enough, the coke build up won't have ruined the clearances between the steel shaft and the aluminum body.

Let it go, and the clearances will increase as coked oil is very hard and abrasive

And forget about the "fix" of spraying WD-40 from the top-down of the cam synchro - it's nothing more than a temporary band-aid.

WD-40 won't break it down - it'll just cover it up for a few cycles.

Only Scotch-Brite, solvent, and elbow grease will do the trick.

BTW - How many miles on your cam synchro?????????????
 






Wd40!!! I don’t even have that in the shop wd40 is a terrible lubricant imo
If anything we use good motor oil or atf a few drops in the top of the synchro can buy time and like you said MASK the issue

After many many problems with richporter, victor reinz, duralast and any other name they sell the cheapo synchronizers under i prefer to use ford only!!! Nothing sucks worse then throwing money away and having to do the job two or three times

First things first let’s see if the chirp is even coming from the synchro
 






F87Z19E616AA is the EATC blend door actuator part number, I got it from the RA website. They want $60+ for it, some others want $70ish, one was $100+(Amazon), and a dealer or two had it for $55ish, all not including taxes or shipping usually.
 






Get to the bushings inside that you can as Fast Dave says. Then soak the lower unit in marvels mystery oil, allow to drain overnite and install.
 






So took the truck to have it dyno'd again today and found it was putting out two pounds of boost less than the last dyno. Turns out the PCV valve had blown out of the back of the intake Put it back in and the chirp is gone and the transmission is shifting properly again (though we have a tuning issue regarding transmission) Is there a way to keep the PCV valve from popping out. All it seems to be is a rubber grommet holding it in.
 






Does your truck have the original PCV grommet? The old ones shrink a lot, and will leak without boot. A new one may hold, but you don't want to see much boost at all at the PCV.
 






The PCV valve was changed to a new one when intake spacer was installed... Now just need to figure out how to keep it in. Having it popped out caused alot of issues.

Is there something that should have been done regarding the PCV valve, etc when I went from stock to the blower???

Video of dyno run
 






How about the grommet? The PCV goes into a large rubber grommet which pushes into the lower intake. There is a metal mesh chunk of a filter that's under those, that too should be removed and cleaned out(it collects oil deposits and can clog up over time). But the grommet needs to be replaced, that is what shrinks a lot with age and it doesn't hold the PCV tightly anymore.
 






So I saw an old post by Tim that said that the PCV valves in our trucks are not one-way valve and that you need a one-way valve for Supercharged application. A couple old posts Recommended EV - 98 or ev-127-a. I saw the EV 98 but it does not come with a grommet or screen. Are there Motorcraft part numbers for the grommet and screen or can you use any old one? I know my installed a new valve and I think grommet but it was just parts store quality
 



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I silicon the grommet to the intake and then a little silicon on the pcm to the grommet keeps them in place

You can get your hand back there working from the passenger side, if needed you can remove the two transmission nuts and jack the trans up just a bit, gives more room to work back there
 






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