Fredness
Elite Explorer
- Joined
- June 2, 2000
- Messages
- 722
- Reaction score
- 75
- City, State
- Tejas!
- Year, Model & Trim Level
- '05 Sport Trac Adrenalin
We start with an upgrade to the head unit.
"Easy enough" one might say, but I’m not known for doing anything “easy”…
First our history lesson: The Adrenalin sound system is a Pioneer 6 disc head unit that was “cutting edge” when it was designed in 2002 - even when this unit was installed in this 2005 Sport Trac, it was still pretty good.
The Pioneer head unit has three connections: Antenna, Power/Signal and Amp/Subwoofer which go to an amplifier mounted to the rear of the cab (behind the access panels, behind the folding seats.) The Pioneer Amplifier is 6 channels: Front Left/Right, Rear Left/Right and Subwoofer Left/Right even though the signal from the head unit is a monaural subwoofer.
The output of the amplifier is sent to 4 in door Pioneer 6x8” speakers and the Ford Audiophile 8” dual voice coil 4 Ohm subwoofer (in a fiber filled plastic box under the driver side rear seat, or on the back wall).
- My original complaint was the lack of RDS - I’m a big fan. There are also No External Connections for audio, No USB, No iTunes Tagging and No iPhone /iPod controls. In 2012 this seems almost inconceivable and downright barbaric.
The most desired features were HD radio (digital stereo with no subscriptions), USB port and iPod control and RDS would be a bonus, but not a deal breaker. For this we chose the JVC HDR70 Receiver from Crutchfield Audio ($139.99 complete with install kit and harness, shipped free $20 off with reference code: pe3du-uud6u-9tuyh).
Since the main harness is speaker level outputs and power this begs the question “what happens to the amp?” since you cannot provide speaker level input to the amplifier without causing SERIOUS damage. Also, there is no Amp/Subwoofer harness provided. A quick call to Crutchfield Tech Support reveals that the intended installation is to bypass the factory amp or run new speaker wire to each door. Not an option. Why would I give up a 510 Watt 6 channel amplifier?
So, off I go in to ever so familiar territory - “the unknown”.
Here’s what we know; I will need to modify the existing install harness to include:
A custom +5v remote amplifier turn-on lead (JVC is +12vdc, like everyone BUT Ford).
Custom RCA jacks adapted to the speaker level lines to provide no more than 2.5vdc input to the amp.
I will add a case ground as I never trust the “ground wire” to be anything more than a power return.
And we’ll also want to remove any pins/wires that aren’t being used to make things less complicated.
So, the reason there is no kit available for a direct bolt in is the 5v remote line - this will be custom and SLICK.
Parts List:
1/8” heat shrink cut to 1” lengths (~2 ft) - cheapest in bulk 4 ft
1/4" heat shrink cut to 1” lengths (~1 ft) - cheapest in bulk 4 ft
Vehicle specific pigtail
Head unit specific pigtail
Solder - forget tin! Go with rosin core lead solder.
Soldering iron
Electrical tape
Wire strippers
Wire cutters
LM7805 +5V Voltage Regulator (Radio Shack
Assorted wire
1 or 2 RCA cables (each has 4 connectors - 2 red, 2 white - Get a video cable and use the 2 yellow for the subwoofer!)
All lines are stripped, twisted, soldered and heat shrinked for a maintenance-free and professional finish. This allows us to use this cable between the factory harness and the new head unit without cutting the factory harness - this is very important due to the level of sophistication of modern vehicle electrical systems.
RCA ends are easy enough - you probably already have 2-3 set of these lying around from previous stereo installs or electronic purchases - if not, the can be had for under $10 at nearly any store with electronics.
The things to remember:
Red is Right
The solid color speaker wire is (+), the stripped matching color is the (-)
The RCA jack (+) wire is USUALLY the same color as the jack, and the (-) is the shielding
Now, what about the +5v? Easy, we are going to use an LM7805 +5V Fixed-Voltage 3-Prong Regulator from your local electronics store (~$2) and wire it as follows:
Pin 1 (Input) to 12v head unit remote (usually blue with a white stripe)
Pin 2 (Common) to 12v Ground (usually black)
Pin 3 (Output) to the +5v (usually blue with a white stripe)
In this JVC install there is a LARGE amplifier heat sink on the back of the head unit that will see minimal use since we aren’t using the onboard amp. This is tapped for an M4x8mm long screw - this will be used with a washer and “Arctic Silver” heat sink paste (TOTAL overkill) for our regulator.
Installation:
Follow the directions provided with the dash adapter and wiring harness.
Main harness is too simple, just connect the two and it's done.
Secondary harness with the +5v remote and the subwoofer? Insert the pins in to the respective slots (+5v pin 5, SW (+) pin 4 and SW (-) pin 3) and use electrical tape to secure.
You could go one step further and either get a male pigtail to splice (Easily removed, but expensive) or cut off the factory connector and solder the wires (most secure, least desirable).
Works great, looks great, and sounds even better!
Thanks to Crutchfield for your great service and Crutchfield Technical Support (Ed) for excellent support!!
iPod tests 3/14/2012 - Like this JVC HDR70 even more! Full iPod Control with USB!
"Near perfect match" for Ford dash lighting using "Buttons Color": , and "Display Color":
iPhone tests 3/17/2012 - Full iPhone Control with USB (Audio), need to try phone functionality
Cellphone tests 3/17/2012 (using 2.5mm front and rear panel inputs), analog audio is "Meh", but works!
Bluetooth Module is available, may have to get one for testing...
"Easy enough" one might say, but I’m not known for doing anything “easy”…
First our history lesson: The Adrenalin sound system is a Pioneer 6 disc head unit that was “cutting edge” when it was designed in 2002 - even when this unit was installed in this 2005 Sport Trac, it was still pretty good.
The Pioneer head unit has three connections: Antenna, Power/Signal and Amp/Subwoofer which go to an amplifier mounted to the rear of the cab (behind the access panels, behind the folding seats.) The Pioneer Amplifier is 6 channels: Front Left/Right, Rear Left/Right and Subwoofer Left/Right even though the signal from the head unit is a monaural subwoofer.
The output of the amplifier is sent to 4 in door Pioneer 6x8” speakers and the Ford Audiophile 8” dual voice coil 4 Ohm subwoofer (in a fiber filled plastic box under the driver side rear seat, or on the back wall).
- My original complaint was the lack of RDS - I’m a big fan. There are also No External Connections for audio, No USB, No iTunes Tagging and No iPhone /iPod controls. In 2012 this seems almost inconceivable and downright barbaric.
The most desired features were HD radio (digital stereo with no subscriptions), USB port and iPod control and RDS would be a bonus, but not a deal breaker. For this we chose the JVC HDR70 Receiver from Crutchfield Audio ($139.99 complete with install kit and harness, shipped free $20 off with reference code: pe3du-uud6u-9tuyh).
Since the main harness is speaker level outputs and power this begs the question “what happens to the amp?” since you cannot provide speaker level input to the amplifier without causing SERIOUS damage. Also, there is no Amp/Subwoofer harness provided. A quick call to Crutchfield Tech Support reveals that the intended installation is to bypass the factory amp or run new speaker wire to each door. Not an option. Why would I give up a 510 Watt 6 channel amplifier?
So, off I go in to ever so familiar territory - “the unknown”.
Here’s what we know; I will need to modify the existing install harness to include:
A custom +5v remote amplifier turn-on lead (JVC is +12vdc, like everyone BUT Ford).
Custom RCA jacks adapted to the speaker level lines to provide no more than 2.5vdc input to the amp.
I will add a case ground as I never trust the “ground wire” to be anything more than a power return.
And we’ll also want to remove any pins/wires that aren’t being used to make things less complicated.
So, the reason there is no kit available for a direct bolt in is the 5v remote line - this will be custom and SLICK.
Parts List:
1/8” heat shrink cut to 1” lengths (~2 ft) - cheapest in bulk 4 ft
1/4" heat shrink cut to 1” lengths (~1 ft) - cheapest in bulk 4 ft
Vehicle specific pigtail
Head unit specific pigtail
Solder - forget tin! Go with rosin core lead solder.
Soldering iron
Electrical tape
Wire strippers
Wire cutters
LM7805 +5V Voltage Regulator (Radio Shack
Assorted wire
1 or 2 RCA cables (each has 4 connectors - 2 red, 2 white - Get a video cable and use the 2 yellow for the subwoofer!)
All lines are stripped, twisted, soldered and heat shrinked for a maintenance-free and professional finish. This allows us to use this cable between the factory harness and the new head unit without cutting the factory harness - this is very important due to the level of sophistication of modern vehicle electrical systems.
RCA ends are easy enough - you probably already have 2-3 set of these lying around from previous stereo installs or electronic purchases - if not, the can be had for under $10 at nearly any store with electronics.
The things to remember:
Red is Right
The solid color speaker wire is (+), the stripped matching color is the (-)
The RCA jack (+) wire is USUALLY the same color as the jack, and the (-) is the shielding
Now, what about the +5v? Easy, we are going to use an LM7805 +5V Fixed-Voltage 3-Prong Regulator from your local electronics store (~$2) and wire it as follows:
Pin 1 (Input) to 12v head unit remote (usually blue with a white stripe)
Pin 2 (Common) to 12v Ground (usually black)
Pin 3 (Output) to the +5v (usually blue with a white stripe)
In this JVC install there is a LARGE amplifier heat sink on the back of the head unit that will see minimal use since we aren’t using the onboard amp. This is tapped for an M4x8mm long screw - this will be used with a washer and “Arctic Silver” heat sink paste (TOTAL overkill) for our regulator.
Installation:
Follow the directions provided with the dash adapter and wiring harness.
Main harness is too simple, just connect the two and it's done.
Secondary harness with the +5v remote and the subwoofer? Insert the pins in to the respective slots (+5v pin 5, SW (+) pin 4 and SW (-) pin 3) and use electrical tape to secure.
You could go one step further and either get a male pigtail to splice (Easily removed, but expensive) or cut off the factory connector and solder the wires (most secure, least desirable).
Works great, looks great, and sounds even better!
Thanks to Crutchfield for your great service and Crutchfield Technical Support (Ed) for excellent support!!
iPod tests 3/14/2012 - Like this JVC HDR70 even more! Full iPod Control with USB!
"Near perfect match" for Ford dash lighting using "Buttons Color": , and "Display Color":
iPhone tests 3/17/2012 - Full iPhone Control with USB (Audio), need to try phone functionality
Cellphone tests 3/17/2012 (using 2.5mm front and rear panel inputs), analog audio is "Meh", but works!
Bluetooth Module is available, may have to get one for testing...