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Ford Timing Chain Tensioner Cutaway

Fix4Dirt

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Do you hear the startup rattle in the above video when he starts his car the first time after he installed a new tensioner? THE SPRING IS NOT ENOUGH! So I won’t blame spring fatigue on this. It’s just designed so.
nevermind then ;) i kinda got used to it so didnt notice anything
 



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410Fortune

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I see what you are saying. If the spring was enough then we wouldn’t get cold start rattle with brand new units installed (before they have a chance to pump up)

Once they pump up like you said it takes a vise to retract them
So what does the spring do?
Likely for that first start up and a backup if the tensioners bleed out over time.
Very good point, well taken.

I like the manual tensioners
There is the backstory been discussed here many times especially recently

I purchased a 2014 Polaris rzr xp1000 with its prostar 999cc dohv twin cylinder 4 stroke engine. Right from the dealership… cold start rattle. I knew it right away.
Next season wife gets a 2015 rzr xp1000 4 seater… same cold start rattle right out of the crate!!
However now the Polaris prostar engine has been out for a couple of years and the aftermarket / racing scene has taken notice.
Polaris used the exact same ford tensioner in the pro star engines. Aftermarket companies started to gut the tensioners and machine then to be manually adjusted. Problem solved.
I ordered some back then it was $300+ a set not fun to spend on a new toy x 2
Never another cold start rattle either machine, I was sold.
First question in my mind… will they fit sohc 4.0. Yes.
Now In 2022 with all the Polaris 1000’s out there you can get full stainless manual tensioners for like $60
Set it once, forget about it

Or you can mash your fuel peddle to the floor each time you have a cold start. Then engine won’t fire… but you will build oil pressure in those weak tensioners

I learn something every day
Kudos to these discussions! Good job on the tensioner cut away… a few years late but hey lol
 












Justin J

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Donald, did you cut open the front (longer) one? I’m wondering what differences they have.

Someone suggested installing a front/longer one to the rear, for a longer lifetime, as most people report the rear one fails earlier typically.

How do you guys think?
 






donalds

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No I'm sorry I did not cut it open the long one
 












Justin J

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Just checked mine, and I believe it needs replacing: the check valve leaks.

This is the rear one:

 






donalds

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Time for a new one .
But yours isn't all that bad.
Keeping in mind that it will have 35 psi oil pressure on it

To check the one way valve part

Submerge the bottom of the tensioner in oil and then pump up the tensioner it should be rock hard but the bottom has to be in oil At all times
 






BTR

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First question in my mind… will they fit sohc 4.0? Yes.
In 2022 with all the Polaris 1000’s out there you can get full stainless manual tensioners for like $60. Set it once, forget about it.
@410Fortune - Regarding the manual tensioners that fit the 4.0L SOHC, I like what you say about them, i.e., "set 'em and forget 'em for rattle-free startups." One question: How does one know what "pressure/tension" to set them at? I'm up for installing a pair, but I have no idea how to determine the tension to set them at. Please advise. Many thanks.
 






donalds

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@410Fortune - Regarding the manual tensioners that fit the 4.0L SOHC, I like what you say about them, i.e., "set 'em and forget 'em for rattle-free startups." One question: How does one know what "pressure/tension" to set them at? I'm up for installing a pair, but I have no idea how to determine the tension to set them at. Please advise. Many thanks.
My install steps for manual timing tensioners
Use this tensioner at your own risk
Its not a fix all



1...Disassemble the tensioner and put a bit of oil in t so the o ring can move around when you adjust
>>>>>Only turn the engine clockwise <<<<<
2...Set engine to top dead center before installing !!!!!
3...Adjust the tensioner most all the way loose ...or in
4...Then install it into the head
5...Tighten the tensioner adjuster 10mm with your fingers !!!!!!
6...Use your hand and a 10mm socket to turn in the adjustment screw with 2 fingers till it stops
........Do not use a ratchet !!.......<<<<<<<<<<
7...Now have someone turn the engine by hand using the crank bolt clockwise till you feel the adjusting screw get looser
Then adjust again ...with your fingers ...!!!!

8...Now disconnect the crank sensor
9...Have someone crank the engine with the starter
While you keep trying to screw in the adjustment in by hand with 2 fingers
It will screw in a little at a time

>>>>>>>never put much force turning that adjustment screw like almost no force required<<<
We are just removing the slack that's it!!!!!

10...Now the last part
start it and adjust you will feel the pulse of the valve springs
Again use just a 10 mm socket and your to fingers
Once you feel the pulse ing stop your there shut down the engine

11...Last step
Back off your 10 mm adjustment 1/4 turn
Lock it down
done
>>>>>>>>>Do this one Tensioner at a time !!!!!!<<<<<<<

Best I got
 






CDW6212R

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Excellent, and is that a form of the adjusting procedure by Polaris?
 






donalds

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Excellent, and is that a form of the adjusting procedure by Polaris?


Just how I thought it should be done lol

Learned how from a old guy who is dead now
 






CDW6212R

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I agree with the logic of it; tighten it until the slack is out(when the pulsing reduces to almost nothing), and then adjust a little slack into it.
 






allmyEXes

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Someone with extra time on their hands could make a thread with EVERYTHING 4.0 SOHC related and make it a 'sticky' so that anyone looking for 4.0 SOHC information could easily find it. When I repaired mine, I had to do a lot of digging and question asking too. When new people come here and ask questions I don't know where to tell them to look other than dig around. Thanks to all of you, many of you that helped me with my white 1997 (GW) 4.0 SOHC.
Link to my '97 SOHC repair
I went back and read my thread from when I repaired the white '97 with the Job 1 SOHC and several engine parts had to be out of the way to install the driver's side manual tensioner.
Fan and shroud
Serpentine belt
Thermostat housing, of course no antifreeze/coolant in the radiator
Radiator in to have the transmission lines hooked up or a jumper hose
You have to have all of this stuff out of the way for the tensioner install and adjustment.
The engine will run without the alternator spinning or the temp sensors plugged in.
 






BTR

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@donalds - Thanks for posting the steps for installing manual tensioners. Apologies for not finding the steps myself. I didn't read the entire thread until now (and saw the steps posted earlier in the thread). I appreciate your help.
 






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